Michelin Star – Page 4 – Rays Picks NYC

Tim Ho Wan (Sham Shui Po) *

Tim Ho Wan Sham Shui Po
9-11 Fuk Wing Stree
Hong Kong, China
+852 2132 0066

In the world of gastronomy receiving the Michelin stars usually equate to higher prices, Hong Kong’s Tim Ho Wan is an exception. This dim sum restaurant has the distinction as the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world. Opened in 2009 by Mak Kwai-pui, a former chef of the three Michelin starred Lung King Heen, it has since expanded throughout Hong Kong and throughout the Far East as well as in Sydney, Australia. Its original location in Mong Kok had closed down a few years ago due to rising rent prices and relocated to another part of Hong Kong. There are currently two branches with a star, the North Point and Sham Siu Po, and since the latter was the oldest it was the one that I chose to visit.

Armed with two other companions we arrived for a late lunch on Sunday afternoon. There was still a large crowd of locals and tourist waiting for their number to be called. We waited for about twenty minutes before we were seated. The place was noisy and every table occupied. There’s nothing special with the décor of the restaurant, just plain wood tables and chairs making, New York City Chinatown’s Golden Unicorn and Jin Fong high end in comparison.

Unlike the places in New York City, where the food carts are being pushed around, here you fill up a paper menu, check what you want to order then you give it your server. One by one small plates of goodness start to flow. Steamed chicken feet with black bean sauce, an all-time great at a dim sum place, gelatinous chicken feet doused in black bean sauce had tremendous flavor. Steamed rice with meat & dry cuttle fish had a creaminess to it. The rice was covered in savory meat and cuttle fish. It was hearty and definitely filling. Poached fresh seasonal vegetables where the Chinese cabbage still retained the leafy aspect. Steamed dumplings in chu chow style had a filling that was a mixture of shrimp and fresh vegetables which made for a chewy dumplings.

The steamed egg cake had a delicate and puffy texture as each bite left my palate wanting more. Steamed chicken with mushroom where the chicken meat was so tender that it fell right of the bone. Steamed with mushroom, peppers and garlic it infused beautiful flavor in the chicken. Nicely done pan-fried beef buns filled with satay paste had a wonderful fried crusty middle. Its beef stuffing marinated in satay paste was deliciously sweet yet savory. Steamed beef balls with bean curd skin, compact juicy beef balls oozed with oily goodness. A dish that makes a normal appearance at almost every dim sum restaurant in New York City, Vermicelli roll stuffed with shrimp. At Tim Ho Wan the vermicelli was a little thick but worked well in absorbing the soy sauces provided. There’s also the Cantonese classic, Pan-fried turnip cake, a crunchy outer layer while soft in the inside. This was a pleasant and modest dish.

We were satisfied at the end that we decided to forgo dessert. My companion and I were all in agreement and enjoyed our meal. Out total damaged was about 250 HKD including tax and 10 percent service charge (about $32) for ten shared dishes and just tea to drink. This was an excellent value for your money.

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At Tim Ho Wan don’t expect Michelin starred service, the staff is efficient and direct but not rude. There were times that a server had to yell out to the guest for their orders as the rooms got extremely noisy. Our meal was quick but we did not feel rushed at all since the food started coming out soon after we ordered. We gave ourselves enough time to help digest but at the same time we were not inconsiderate of those waiting for tables.

Tim Ho Wan is a humble restaurant that serves authentic dim sum. The food is simple, focusing more on taste than presentation, When the Michelin guide awarded this restaurant a star it caused a shockwave to the restaurant world. There was backlash from pundits and food enthusiast alike and the credibility of the guide was questioned. In a city with a myriad of dim sum restaurants was Tim Ho Wan the only one that the Michelin inspector thought worthy of the star? I’m pretty sure there is a lot more deserving but if based on the criteria of a one star “a very good restaurant in its category”, Tim Ho Wan is a very a good dim sum restaurant.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be elaborate. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a treatment prescribed to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you must ask your druggist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are as a rule able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may switch on erectile malfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other humanity even if their state appears to be the same as yours.

Steirereck **

Steirereck
Am Heuemarkt 2A/im Stadtpark
A-1030 Vienna, Austria
+43 713 31 68
Official Site

Austria’s capital city of Vienna is the cultural center of the nation. It is the birthplace of Viennese cuisine and the epicenter of Austrian gastronomy. There are nine venues awarded a Michelin star including Steirereck, the country’s most decorated restaurant and is considered among the very best in the world. Set along the River Wein in Stadpark, it has two Michelin stars, a score of 19/20 from Gault Millau and ranked number 15 in the San Pelligrino’s 50 Best Restaurant the Worlds list for 2015. The man responsible for its global ascension is Chef Heinz Reitbauer. He perfected his skills cooking under some of Europe’s greatest chefs like Anton Mosimann, Alain Chapel and Joel Robuchon before taking over Steirereck from his parents’ back 2005 when the restaurant was relocated to the capital.

In 2014 Steirereck was expanded adding more space that also houses another restaurant called Meierei Stadpark which faces more towards the river. The façade was given modern futuristic aspect, built with metals that reflect the lush greenery of the park. After entering the restaurant, guests are drawn to the kitchen next to the hostess desk where Chef Reitbauer directs his brigade. The swerved layout of the dining room provided a personal space with unformed round tables with ample distance from one another. Grey herringbone chairs gave a clean contrast to the white ceilings, blonde wood paneled walls and ivory mosaic tiled floorings while the large windows had the park as its back drop setting the tone for an intimate dining space.

Serving modern Austrian cuisine, Steirereck offers a six, seven course tasting menu and a la carte for both lunch and dinner. Additionally, there is a shorter five course option available for lunch only. The seven-course EUR 142 was the choice on my visit. I was served a made to order refreshing non-alcoholic aperitif prior to starting the meal. Then came a parade of small bites made from fish, sea food, vegetables, and eggs. Afterwards a cart of an assortment of freshly baked bread was rolled in-front of me.

The first course, CARROTS-Young Carrots with Fennel, Coconut & ‘Reinanke’, glazed in its own juice, ginger and lemon, yielding the carrots with some citric spiciness. “Reinanke” or white fish was just another facet to this dish that went well with all the other elements. Served two ways was the second course of CRAYFISH- Crayfish with eggplant, hemp & fennel pollen. A whole roasted crayfish cut in half was a bit messy and out of place for a fine dining considering that using both hands to crack shells in order to get to the meat but never the less the crayfish was very good. The other was with eggplant; it had very good textures with some lime undertones. Then came the third course, TENCH- Tench with Cauliflower, Spelt Sprout and Isabella Grapes. The tench was confit in brown butter which added some richness to the muddy essence of the fish.

Tasting Menu:

After all the sea food courses were finished, the tasting proceeded with the next two courses consisting of land proteins. PHEASANT-Pheasant with Salted Lemon-braised Onions, Chard & Ground cherry, a confit of lean pheasant breast and legs that was soft and scrumptious. It was enriched with sauce from potato with Peperoncini, baby leeks, and salted lemon. The main course was the MILK FED VEAL-Milk-Fed Veal with Young Cabbage, Turnip & Bone Marrow, the veal was cooked to perfection, juicy, and tender. The vegetables that were braised and grilled was a great addition to a flavorful veal. There was also a hint of buttery context on the plate lurking in the background of every bite.

Instead of having the traditional cheese course I had the FRESH CHEESE–Sweetened Vanilla, Fresh Cheese, with Physalis and Cereal. The dish was prepared on my table, one at a time the server slowly put together all the components while explaining about the dish. A more savory sweet course that has different types of fresh cheese, one was frozen darkened by black sesame seed and with hint of coconut the other was with unpasteurized vanilla. It also had dried Physalis for added textures and cherry sweetness. The dessert course was ROTER MOND- Roter mond apple and preserved walnut with spiced Amaranth, this was a Russian apple that has a distinct redness. Though sweet it also has some tartness, sour cream was added to balance the fruity nature. There were traces of gingery taste and preserved walnuts were for additional crunchy textures. Then finally the sweet petites course of chocolates and small pastries rounds up the tasting.

This seven course tasting menu was with a wine pairing for additional EUR 89. The pairing consisted of all Austrian wines which I applauded as Austria makes excellent wines. Most of my meals in Europe the wine pairing usually included a French wine but the sommelier at Steirereck fittingly enough paired it with beautiful local wines that not only enhanced each dish but was also enjoyable on its own. Even the one cocktail, Limoncello , that was paired with the cheese course had a pleasing alcoholic zest to go with it.

Lasting three hours, the tasting menu allowed Chef Reitbauer to display his cooking repertoire to his guests. His attention to detail and creativity to develop a plate with a complexity that involves putting together different elements produces interesting flavor combinations. He put a lot of emphasis on vegetables as all the savory courses included different root and leafy veggies. The ingredients are quality and was sourced from the chefs own farm and other local farmers.

While Chef Reitbauer is responsible for the kitchen, the dining room is under the guidance of his wife Brigit Reitbauer. She was handling the multinational guest at the dining room from the beginning, in the middle of the meal, all the way to the end with assurance that each guest will have an excellent dining experienced. The staff was efficient, cordial and well trained. Service was flawless and is expected from a restaurant of this stature.

Wine Pairing:

At Steirereck, Chef Reitbauer was able to provide a dining experience that is unique to Vienna. He is redefining Austrian cuisine and recreating classic Viennese fare while showcasing local ingredients. With this, he sets the restaurant apart from the handful of Michelin starred places in Vienna as it sits on the pinnacle of the dining echelon. Steirereck has been “THE” dining destination in the country for some time now and will continue to be in years to come.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a medication preassigned to treat few ailments. What do you have to view about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are mostly able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may turn on erectile disfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other folk even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.

2016 New York City Michelin Guide

Three Stars

Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare
Eleven Madison Park
Jean-Georges
Le Bernardin
Masa
Per Se

Two Stars

Aquavit
Atera
Blanca
Daniel
Ichimura
Jungsik
Marea
Modern (The)
Momofuku Ko
Soto

One Star:

Ai Fiori
Aldea
Andanada
Aureole
Babbo
Bâtard
Betony
Blue Hill
Bouley
Breslin (The)
Brushstroke
Café Boulud
Café China
Cagen (new)
Carbone
Casa Enríque
Casa Mono
Caviar Russe
Delaware and Hudson
Del Posto
Dovetail
The Finch (new)
Gabriel Kreuther (new)
Gotham Bar and Grill
Gramercy Tavern
Hirohisa (new)
Jewel Bako
Juni
Junoon
Kajitsu
Kyo Ya
La Vara
Luksus at Tørst
Meadowsweet
Minetta Tavern
Musket Room (The)
M. Wells Steakhouse
NoMad
Peter Luger
Picholine
Piora
Pok Pok Ny
Public
Rebelle (new)
River Café (The)
Rosanjin
Semilla (new)
Somtum Der (new)
Spotted Pig
Sushi Azabu
Sushi of Gari
Sushi Yasuda (new)
Take Root
Telepan
Tempura Matsui
Tori Shin
Tulsi
Uncle Boons (new)
Wallsé
ZZ’s Clam Bar

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a treatment set to treat few ailments. What do you have to view about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your pharmacist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile dysfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other folk even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.

L’Arpege***

L’Arpege
84 Rue de Varenne
75007 Paris, France
+33 1 47 05 09 06
Official Site

So many chefs these days have been focusing more on vegetables as the main attraction at their restaurants, even the great Alain Ducasse made a splash last year when he decided to concentrate more on vegetables and fish after refurbishing his namesake Alain Ducasse Au Plaza Athenee in Paris. But way before Chef Ducasse and others made the transition Chef Alain Passard was one of the first big name chefs that entered the movement when he removed all animal protein from his menu at his critically acclaimed three Michelin starred restaurant, L’Arpege in 2002 (though animal protein has returned but to a minimal). Such a risky move for an established chef who’s had three stars under his belt since 1996.

Chef Passard purchased L’Arpege from his mentor, Alain Senderens, back in 1986 and at that time it was named L’Archestrate (where he also spent time in its kitchen) before he renamed and renovated it. The calm dining room is small with a simple interior. Its clean white walls are covered in blond wood panels with silver plated artwork, low ceilings, tables sparsely spaced and paired with beige leather padding chairs in shiny metallic frames. The restaurants cellar, an enclosed space with exposed bricks, is also used for extra dining space.

L’Arpege has an a la carte offering, a EUR 240 vegetable tasting, and a EUR 340 dinner tasting, although pricey, it’s on par with Paris standards. For lunch there is a EUR 140 tasting, a bargain for this type of restaurant and which I selected. Just like my previous meal at Chef Passard’s mentee Pascol Barbot in L’Astrance, the kitchen creates what is available on that day.

Lunch Tasting:

The lunch tasting began with a tiny snack of carrots with garlic puffs which was finished in one quick bite. Then a trio of nicely done mousses in individual teaspoons of carrot mustard, parsnip with coriander, and Parmesan with coriander was served. Next to come was a beet root sushi with mustard bay leaves. Made with thinly a sliced beet that was a substitute for tuna on top of tightly squeezed rice, to replicate a sushi, displayed the creativity of the chef.

Afterwards, I was served a salad from the garden. The vibrant leafy green vegetables were extremely fresh. It was garnished with shaved Parmesan cheese and walnuts for added texture while a dressing gave the right amount of acidity. For such a simple dish it was very good. Vegetable ravioli was next, which consisted of three pieces of ravioli stuffed with vegetable puree and drowned in warm vegetable broth with beet shoots and carrots juice. The ravioli stuffing had a wonderful veggie flavor to go along with an earthy aromatic broth.

Gratin with Parmesan cheese, peppers, and grapefruit was the following course. Made with potatoes and onions, the gratin had a nice crunchiness that combined perfectly with the pungency of the Parmesan cheese while also having a slight citrusy zest. This was then followed with a beet root tartare served with potato chips. A fascinating, yet refreshing root flavors that married with an intense bitterness of the horseradish cream. A well thought out dish where the genius of Chef Passard replicating a steak tartare that turned into a vegan delight.

A lone meat dish on the tasting menu was the heart and liver of duck tapenade on puff pastry with a side of green salad. The offal meat sliced in small cubes was cooked wonderfully, but at this time I was already enjoying the vegetarian spectacle that the animal protein was an afterthought. Never the less this was still a lovely savory dish. Now back to the vegetables. For the next course, colorful garden fresh vegetables with just a splash of olive oil and sprinkling of couscous giving it an added element.

An array of sweet courses began with honey onion and mint caramel custard served with fragrant star anise ice cream on the side to cool off the palate. A delightful plate of assorted pastry and sweets came as an intermission prior to serving the rest of the dessert. It then proceeded with a Paris-Brest, a firm pastry sandwiching a cream that is slightly rich and sugary. To end the meal were two kinds of chocolate confection, a mousse and a chocolate Napoleon, which was layered in different types of chocolate.

This was a sublime meal especially for the price I paid. The food served was light and healthy; the vegetables that were used were extremely fresh and of high quality. They are transported daily from Chef Passard’s own farm where he personally picks them. As a master craftsman who has a special relationship with vegetables, Chef Passard allows their natural flavors to shine without doing too much to them while arranging them on the plate with perfect combination. Also, in this tasting Chef Passard was able to use an ingredient more than once (as many of top restaurants do not do this) and used them well, adding a different dimension each time.

Unfortunately, there was no pre-set wine pairing available for this tasting but the restaurant did have an excellent list of wines available by the glass. With the help of the sommelier, the red and white wines from Medoc and Alsace region that were picked went well with my courses while also recommending a beautiful champagne as a welcome pour.

At L’Arpege, service was precise and formal to a degree, but was also adjustable to the type of guests that they serve. The staff was a mixture of young and seasoned veterans and handled the dining room with ease. After service, when the guests (or what’s left of them) are served their final dish the maestro himself emerged into the dining room. Mingling, stopping by every table, and even having coffee with guests or posing for pictures and waving goodbyes. A humble gesture from a chef with all his accolades.

Throughout the years Michelin starred chefs like, Pascol Barbot, Mauro Colagreco, and David Toutain, as well as countless more, have passed through the kitchen of L’Arpege. Chef Passard is one of the most influential individuals in gastronomy. He was a head of his time and an innovator willing to challenge himself and succeed. When he transitioned to a veggie-centric menu, his credibility did not suffer a single bit and L’Arpege has been constantly voted as one of the best restaurants in the world. It is continuously five toques from the Gault & Millau and has maintained three Michelin stars, including in the most current edition of the guide.

As well-known as Chef Passard is, on the same league with the Ducasse’s, the Robuchon’s, and the Gagnaire’s, he doesn’t have a global empire. He only owns one restaurant and can still be seen behind the stoves on the grind with his cooks and staff. His sole focus at L’Arpege is to create a dining experience that transcends vegetables to another level and where guests will have a better appreciation of the ingredients that are often overlooked on the plate. To charge EUR 240 without any animal protein, the food has to be out of this world and though I had the lunch tasting for a lot less, I can see why Chef Passard and his restaurant is highly regarded. This is a place for a gastro pilgrimage that both vegetarian and meat eaters will adore.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be elaborate. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a medication set to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile malfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other people even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.

L’Astrance ***

L’Astrance
4 Rue Beethoven
75116 Paris, France
+33 1 40 50 84 40
Official Website

With ninety-four Michelin starred restaurants scattered throughout Paris to go along with a large number of quality bistros, brasseries, and wine bars, it is easy to say that Parisians takes their food and wine seriously. Fine dining is in abundance and as the epicenter and the originator of haute cuisine, the city has 9 three Michelin starred restaurants, more than any other city in the world outside of Tokyo. One of its top restaurants, L’Astrance in the 16th arrondissement which serves creative French fare with global emphasis, is high on travelling epicureans list to visit while in Paris. Led by Chef Pascal Barbot and Maitre d’ Christophe Rohat, the restaurant has had three stars since 2007 and continuously appears in the San Pelligrino’s The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Chef Barbot worked under Alain Passard at Arpege where he and Christophe met (who was responsible for the front of the house). Upon his departure, Chef Barbot was the head chef and the right hand man of Chef Passard. He travelled the globe to cook before reconnecting with Christophe in 2000 to open L’Astrance. The restaurant was well received and quickly ascended to the top after being awarded a Michelin star in 2001 after just a few months of opening. Four years later it received the second one and finally the third in 2007. Not only was this one of the very best that Paris had to offer but it is also one of the toughest tables to score. Opened from Tuesday to Friday, L’Astrance is only able to accept a maximum of twenty-five diners per service. With the time difference between Paris and New York, using a concierge came in handy especially if it required waking up in the wee hours of the morning to call the restaurant for an available table.

L’Astrance is tucked in a quiet residential street near by the banks of the River Sienne directly across from the Eiffel Tower. Its store front glass windows are covered in wooden sticks bundled at the stems. Upon entering, there is an aged old wooden bar in the front for the sommelier to do his tasting before serving each glass of wine. The interior is designed with high ceilings, dark marble floorings, and grey walls with oversized mirrors hanging. Plush lemon leather covered seats and benches are paired with tables that are tight knit within each other. Its lofty layout provided additional seating in the balcony accessible by spiral stairs.

All of L’Astrance menu is listed as a surprise, there are no itemized listing nor a la carte. The EUR 70 prix fixe, EUR 120 five courses for lunch, and “Menu Astrance” their EUR 230 tasting menu, the only option for dinner. The “Menu Astrance” was my choice on my visit and by Parisian standard it is the most economical multi-course meal compared to others of the same level.

Menu Astrance:

A pair of tasty bite sized crispy short bread and mushroom wafers started my culinary voyage to the unknown. The first course called Paris tart is one of Chef Barbot’s signature dishes. Layers of foie gras, thinly sliced mushroom and apple stacked on top of each other was a handsome assortment of buttery, earthy, and sweet elements that was complemented with roasted lemon puree and hazelnut oil. The next course was Oyster from Brittany with scallops and bone marrow. It had a defined flavor of the deep sea and along with the bone marrow, which provided another dimension, this was an interesting blend that the kitchen pulled off excellently. An additional crispy roll with ginger mint and vegetable filling was served on the side as a supplement completing a sublime dish.

For the third course a beautiful piece of sea bass sitting on top of risotto cooked in cauliflower. The bass had a firm texture and clean taste, while the bergamot gave it added zest. The touch of saffron for a little spice and the intensity of the goat cheese helped to even all the flavors. Parmigiana cream with celery and black truffles followed after. Plated to resemble a yin and yang design, the celery puree, thickened with parmigiana, created a cream with strong flavors. On the other hand the pungency of truffle gave this dish an even contrast of two different tastes that got along flawlessly.

The meal continued on with a “Guinea fowl”. Cooked superbly, the texture was extremely tender and flavorful. Parmesan cream gave some richness and the mushroom sauce added flavors that married well with the fowl meat. Miso caramel chips were served alongside this fine dish. Next was roasted duck with cabbage, duck sauce and condiments of olives and coffees. The duck was roasted to perfection the meat was soft and scrumptious. There was a hint of saltiness from the sauce and olives that could have been overpowering but was neutralized by incorporating the coffee for a slight bitterness as a balancer to this amazing dish. Served along with it was a bowl of vivid fresh salad covering a delectable duck liver toast buried beneath.

Moving on from the savory and to clear the palate was a refreshing sorbet with a touch of chili and ginger. Chocolate tart was for dessert, a thick sweet of chocolaty pleasure with great consistency. Mandarin sorbet was also served simultaneously. An interesting dessert dish as it has a mingling of cool fruitiness and some savory. Then finally ending the meal were warm and tasty madeleines, aromatic Jasmine eggnog, and a plate of fresh fruits.

At the start there was no telling what I was in for but when the meal concluded the kitchen delivered a remarkable tasting. “Menu Astrance” was truly surprising and joyous to the taste buds. Chef Barbot’s technical skills fused different elements to create dishes that were both light and savory. The pacing in between courses was of a timely manner allowing me to enjoy and savor every dish. To complement the tasting, sommelier Alexander Jean assembled a perfect wine pairing of mainly French wine which brought out an extra flavor from each course, it was harmonious.

Wine Pairing:

The atmosphere in the dining room was relaxed and intimate. L’Astrance staffs were interactive while also maintaining their formality. There was a bit of cockiness and to some might be interpreted as arrogance but they do it in a fun way. Christophe’s presence in the dining room assured each and every guest received a faultless service.

Decorated chefs like Alain Ducasse, Yannick Alleno, Guy Savoy, Pierre Gagnaire have all set shop in Paris and all have built a global culinary empire. Unlike them and other great Parisian chefs, Chef Barbot owns and operates one restaurant, much like his mentor Alain Passard. He devotes his effort at L’Astrance and can be seen majority of the time behind the stoves. With this, guests are guaranteed to have a meal that has met his standards. As one of most sought after tables in Paris the expectation was high. Chef Barbot’s arsenal was on full force on my visit and he delivered one of the best meals I’ve had so far.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a treatment set to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile dysfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other folk even if their state appears to be the same as yours.

Osteria Francescana ***

Osteria Francescana
Via Stella 22
41121 Modena, Italy
+39 059 223912
Official Site

The nation of Italy is one of the greatest places on earth to eat. People come from all over the globe for a gastronomic pilgrimage. From Piedmont to Sicily each region has its own distinct types of cuisine. One can eat very well up and down the Italian peninsula. But one region outshines them all, Emillia-Romagna in the north central of Italy. Believed to be the gastronomic capital of the country, it is blessed with fertile agricultural lands that produce some of the best ingredients.

There are many well know small cities in Emillia-Romagna like Parma, Bologna and Reggio Emilia but my main focus in coming to the region is the wealthy city of Modena, where Italy’s most famous chef and global icon, Massimo Bottura can be found at his restaurant the critically acclaimed Osteria Francescana. Considered to be one of the top dining venues in the world, both Chef Bottura and the restaurant are mentioned in the same sentence as Luciano Pavarotti, balsamic vinegar and Ferrari.

Situated in the center of the oldest part of Modena on an unassuming street it is easy to bypass the restaurant. There are no signs, the façade is simple with just a grey door and metallic plate and the name of the restaurant engraved on it. Osteria Francescana only have twelve tables separated in three different rooms, one serves only for private functions. I was seated in one of the two main rooms where both locals and tourists occupy. The tables are evenly spaced and were immaculately draped in white table cloth with arco lamps hovering above. Large windows with thin curtains allowed the natural light into the room. Thick carpets cover the floor and light turquoise blue walls had contemporary paintings throughout showing the chef’s love for the arts.

In addition to a la carte, Osteria Francescana offers two types of tasting menus for both lunch and dinner, the EUR 195 “Sensations” and the “Tradition In Evolution” for EUR 170. The latter of the two was the choice on my visit. Having the restriction for pork, I was informed that it would diminish the dining experience so I made a slight exception here.

Tradition In Evolution:

Crisp with shaved Parmesan and Black Truffles

To start, freshly baked bread with local virgin olive oil was served. Then came the snacks of macaroon with rabbit stuffing and crisp with shaved parmesan and black truffles that were both very appetizing. The first course was “Memory of a mortadella sandwich” where the mortadella was turned into foam but still retained the actual taste. Served with crushed pistachio and garlic puree (ingredients that were used to create the sausage) alongside an evenly cut bread. This dish was a wonderful combination of familiar flavors and appealing textures. I was then served a basket of fresh bread that included a warm croissant and some of the best Grissini or bread stick that I’ve ever had. Next was “An eel swimming up the River Po”, a beautiful piece of eel coated in a sweet sauce served on a large white plate. The graininess and the sweetness of the eel was balanced out by the accompaniment of apple extract and cream of polenta.

The third course followed, called “From Modena to Mirandola” a tribute to Modena’s famous balsamic vinegar and cotechino, as well as the version from Marindola. Served on top of a pastry made with almonds and butter with a biscuit like texture and covered in thick zabaglione. A combination of sweet and savory with a level of creaminess and fattiness in this dish that was explosive to the taste buds. Then the “Caesar Salad in Emilia” arrived after. A homage to a classic Italian dish, Chef Bottura’s version contains twenty plus ingredients coming from the bounty of the land hidden inside a fresh baby romaine lettuce. Difficult to name them all, but the essence of a Caesar salad that we are familiar with is there and the quality ingredients that were used can be profoundly tasted.

Five ages of Parmiggiano Reggiano in different temperature and texture

Next was the “Five ages of Parmiggiano Reggiano in different temperature and texture”. A dish made with one ingredient, the cheese texture was manipulated into different temperature and forms. Various aging processes provided multiple layers of intense flavors that wasn’t perplexing to the palate. Chef Bottura’s creation of only using Parmiggiano Reggiano (one of the region’s most popular food) and its flexibility was a stroke of genius. Afterwards, the pasta course of “Tagliatelli a Ragu” was served. A mountain of freshly made tagliatelli showered in veal ragu sauce with evenly chopped veal meat. This was a straight forward approach, a step away from all the previous thought provoking courses. Although seemingly deceiving, by the way that it looks, this dish had an tremendous rich meaty flavor.

For the main course, Chef Bottura was inspired by the artist Damien Hirst called “Beautiful, psychedelic, spin-painted veal, not flame grilled”. A culinary work of art where the plate is splattered with colorful sauces made with mashed potato with extra virgin olive oil, red meat extract, balsamic vinegar and chlorophyll then garnished with horse radish. Even though it’s called veal it was actually beef that was replicated to have both the texture and taste of veal. From all the sauces on this plate, where each was a calculated amount as to not overpower one another as they mixed, but compliment the perfectly cooked flavorful beef.

Prior to dessert I was served a buttery “Foie Gras lollipop” coated in almonds and hazelnut with balsamic vinegar filling. Though small, it comes with a beautiful combination of sweet yet savory richness.

The dessert course was one of the most famous creations in Osteria Francescana, created by accident “Oops I dropped the Lemon tart” was dropped by one of the chef’s in the kitchen and when they put it back on the plate Chef Bottura liked how it looked and decided to keep it. Made with lemon juice and limocello zabaione then covered in broken crust with star anise and plated with cinnamon, juniper, black pepper and cardamom, this was an enjoyable dessert. It had the right amount of sweetness that accompanied the creamy citrus flavoring.

To finish was the “Vignola” named after a town next to Modena and where some of the finest cherries in the country grows. This was a chilled chocolate formed like a cherry with a liquid filling of cherry liqueur and coffee flavors. Then the petit-four of more chocolate and other sweet stuff topped off the “Tradition In Evolution”.

The “Tradition In Evolution” was a culinary journey of Italy and the Emillia-Romagna region through the minds of Chef Bottura. His radical, innovative and playful reinventions of classic Italian fare while still maintaining the flavor profile was a display of brilliance. His food was a work of art plated gorgeously. Being born and raised in Modena, Chef Bottura is familiar with the region and is able to utilize what it offers. To add to this excellent meal was the EUR 110 wine pairing that I opted for. It was a terrific pairing that consisted of Italian wines, a French wine, and a locally brewed beer. Each glass was in tune with each course adding an additional layer after every bite.

Wine Pairing:

In a great restaurant like Osteria Francescana the staff are often over looked as most of the guests are focused on the chef and the food. They were phenomenal and echoed the same passion as Chef Bottura with their service. Each dish was explained clearly and was genuinely engaging but never went away from the professionalism. Their warm Italian hospitality starting from the time that I walked in the restaurant provided the relaxed atmosphere throughout the meal.

Food plays a big role in Italian culture as it has been part of their way of life for hundreds of years. Recipes are passed down from generation to generation. So when Massimo Bottura opened Osteria Francescana back in 1995 he received backlash with his way of cooking. In one of his interviews he said” changing grandma’s recipes to the slightest is considered sacrilegious”. His reinvention of classic Italian cuisine was slowly being recognized in the gastronomic world that locals began to accept him. In 2002 the first Michelin star came, four years later in 2006, it received the second star. Then, in 2012 it was awarded a prestigious third star. The awards did not stop there, San Pelligrino “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” listed Osteria Francescana as the highest new entry at 13 back in 2009 and from 2010 to present it’s been on the top 10 list. There are many more accolades to mention, but in the end Osteria Francescana is an exceptional restaurant led by a great chef. This gastronomic temple in the heart of Modena is definitely worth the special journey.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be elaborate. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a medication preassigned to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In supplement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile disfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other humanity even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.

La Vie ***

Continue reading “La Vie ***”

Vendome ***

Vendome
Althoff Grandhotel Schloss Bensberg,
Kadettenstrasse, 51429 Bergisch Gladbach
Cologne, Germany
+49 2204 42 906
Official Site

Cologne is the fourth populous city in Germany with just over one million inhabitants. Most of its infrastructures were destroyed during World War II leaving just a few historical architectures intact, like the majestic Cologne Cathedral. The city is usually a day trip or stop over for tourists heading to Berlin or Munich, and as far as a gastro destination, it’s mediocre. There are a few Michelin starred restaurants here and there. But what brought me to Cologne is the close proximity to Bergisch-Gladbach a town in the outskirt of the city and where the three Michelin starred restaurant, Vendome, resides.

Vendome’s Executive Chef, Joachim Wissler has been in the kitchen since its opening in 2000. Under his leadership the restaurant has been propelled to gastronomic stardom and has become one of the very best in the world. In its short five years it has been awarded a third Michelin star, which it currently holds. Vendome also has a 19.5 out 20 rating from Gault Millau and an annually appearance in The Worlds 50 Best Restaurant. This 2003 “Chef of The Year” had previously owned two Michelin stars at Marcobrunn restaurant at Schloss Reinhartshausen in Etville before being approached by Thomas Althoff (the owner of the hotel) to open Vendome.

Housed in a separate building of the Althoff Grandhotel Schloss Benserg courtyard overlooking Cologne Cathedral and the city, Vendome is one of three dining options in the hotel. The restaurants dining room is divided into two, each separated by dangling strings and a gold half egg shaped serving station in the center of the room. On one side there are rows of tables with banquettes seats that run along the wall on opposite sides. Meanwhile, the other room is made up of well space tables with 3D like art work on the wall. Throughout the space is thick soft carpet, tables with finely pressed table cloths paired with comfortable green suede chairs. Enlarged windows and clean marble walls complete the interior of the music less dining room.

Aside from the different tasting menus and a la carte options available for lunch and dinner, Vendome also offers the eleven course “Seasonal Menu” for EUR 268 which was a clear cut choice on my visit.

The meal began with a parade of amuse-bouche beginning with thinly sliced, melt in your mouth, “Wagyu Beef” served on a wooden board along with cottage cheese and beech nut. Then came the “Pork Snout” that was slightly modified. The pork was substituted with more oyster and caviar. Presented on a plate that mimicked a pork face, this dish turned out to be a seafood pleasure. The third amuse was a work of art called “Mackerel”. Served on a glass covered box frame plate that displayed the fish bones underneath, the grilled mackerel was elegantly moist. The saporous crème of sardines and escabeche completed the dish. Finally the last of the amuse was the “Fish Finger & Pina Colada” which entailed of smoked salmon on a stick with crispy fish skin, a glass bottle with juice made from coconut and pineapple, white chocolate with coconut and a miniature cocktail glass with green apple jelly. These multiple items gave an array of smoky, sweet, fruity, yet refreshing tastes.

Seasonal Menu:

Fish Finger & Pina Colada (Green Apple Jelly)

Fish Finger & Pina Colada (Coconut & Pineapple Juice)

For the first course I was served the “Foie Gras & Aloe Vera”. The buttery foie gras was glazed in sweet sauce and the tangerine vinegar that it came with gave a nice touch of sourness while the cream of peanuts provided a hint of nuttiness. “Lobster & Bone Marrow” with pumpkin puree was the second course. It was an interesting combination of flavors and textures.

Third course was called “Lecthal Char Escabeche”, it consisted of a wonderful piece of trout from the Austrian region of Lech that was cooked to perfection. Fried egg and horse radish emulsion on the plate gave another layer of flavor with its pungent spiciness. There was also a hint of smokiness as well coming from the strips of smoked eels. Served as a supplement was a bite sized recreation of a blini topped with trout tartare and caviar with horse radish. Then came the following course of “Coquilles St. Jacques Grille”, the restaurants version of paella. There were three components to the dish. A plate with a big titillating king scallop that was barbecued and pieces of octopus and squid. A small plate containing the rice that was akin to a rice crispy and a marshmallow on the stick made from sepia ink. Along with a cup of rice stock as the final component. After mixing all three together as I was instructed by my server it created a paella with a fabulous arrangement of seafood flavors.

Coquilles St. Jacques Grille (Rice and Sepia Ink Marshmallow)

Coquilles St. Jacques Grille (Rice Stock)

Labskaus & Cod (Pulled Cod Meat Topped with Caviar )

Mieral Guinea Fowl (Crispy Fowl Skin Chip )

The fifth course was fillets of cod bathed in herring vinaigrette, with beet root, potato and gherkins called “Labskaus & Cod”. Labskaus is a common North German dish that is usually made with beef, but here it was replaced with delicate cod fillets that absorbed the sweet, sour, and earthy flavors to create a refined dish. Served separately on bread were pulled cod meat topped with caviar.

“Mieral Guinea Fowl” was the sixth course. Two different parts of guinea fowl meat were cooked in different ways; the breast was fried producing a crispy skin on one side, giving it a nice crackling crunch. The leg on the other hand was made into a confit on its own juice creating powerful flavors. An accompaniment of tarragon salad, black truffles, artichoke and puree from Jerusalem artichoke and miso completed this excellent dish. A crispy fowl skin chip was served extra on the side. “Suckling Pig” was the seventh and the main course of the tasting. Instead of pork, I was served chunks of delicious lamb meat and kept the rest of the dish the same. Purees from grilled bananas and lime juice, bean stew, pickled green radish salad, curry and macadamia nuts created various depths of flavors making it a wonderful tasting dish.

“Vondue” was the cheese course, their version of fondue and showed the clever luxuriousness of the restaurant. Served with freshly baked truffle focaccia bread and dehydrated asparagus for dipping, the Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese used in the fondue was soft and rich. To enhance the flavor of the fondue a few drops of clear fruit brandy or kirsch was added.

Breakfast (Nutella and Kumquat Marmalade)

“William Christ Pear” was the beginning of the dessert course. The pear was steamed in its own juice giving it a sweetened soft texture along with the kombu seaweed ice cream and ginger jelly that created a cooling effect. “Breakfast”, was the final dessert, it came with homemade rolls, Nutella and kumquat marmalade, a “Coffee” made with coffee and cream pudding, and hazelnut ice cream with sauce of kumquat and orange. To end were “Sweets” of pork snout made from marshmallow, macaroon of passion fruits, lychee popcorn and Royal Magnum “Marc de Champagne”.

Lasting four hours this was a tour de force meal that rivaled those at Eleven Madison Park and Astrid Y Gaston. The high quality of cooking the kitchen delivered was impeccable. Each course was timed perfectly in a succession of flavors without confusing the palate using multiple elements that worked together in harmony. They were elaborate, visually appealing, and precisely executed. To complement the individual courses, sommelier Marco Franzelin arranged the wine pairing that was comprised of mainly European and a rare appearance of an Canadian wine (a first while dining in Europe).

Wine Pairing:

Top class service was provided by the staff. They were pleasant, professional and had a more personal approach. There was a sense of truthfulness when they engaged the guest in a conversation and each treated with a genuine attitude without the stuffiness. The different servers were able to explain and provided a brief history of every course. They made the visit more enjoyable and added to the greatness of Vendome from the beginning to end.

Chef Wissler had received all the accolades that can be bestowed upon a chef in Germany, he is widely recognized as the country’s top chef. His name is often mentioned in the same sentence with “New German Cooking” and considered to be the founder. His well thought out cooking philosophy was on display at Vendome where he successfully married classic German dishes with innovative modern techniques while using both local and foreign ingredients. For those who have experienced his cooking at Vendome it can easily be one of the best meals they can have.

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Dome *

Dome
Grote Hondstraat 2
Antwerp, Belgium
+32 3 239 9003
Official Site

On my trip to Belgium and the Netherlands this year, I noticed that most of the restaurants I’ve visited were owned and operated by husband and wife. It’s a family business; the husband is usually in charge of the kitchen while the wife is responsible for the front of the restaurant. The same can be said for Dome in Antwerp’s Oud-Berchem, the owners are husband and wife Chef Julian Burlat and Sophie Verbek, who like many couples in the business own multiple dining venues. Their culinary portfolios include Dome Sur Mer, a seafood bistro and bakery/grocery, Domestic, all located within 100 feet from each other.

Chef Burlat was born in France and has cooked under the likes of Pierre Gagnaier , Alain Duccase and Bernard Pacaud, – the A list in French gastronomy. In 2003, him and his wife opened Dome. And six years later in 2009 it was awarded a Michelin star. It has held it ever since.

Located in a stunning Art Nouveau building, Dome’s airy circular dining room sits below an elaborated designed dome where the floors are made of mosaic marbles and walls in white. Uniformed brown leather benches and chairs that are paired with two topped tables covered in sky blue table cloth fills up this gorgeous dining room.

A la carte as well as a tasting menu is available. On my visit I chose the tasting menu or the “Carte Blanche” that cost 79 euros and consists of seven courses. The tasting began with small munchies to excite the appetite, which the octopus salad stood out the most.

Carte Blanche:

For the first course I was served endives with Comte cheese and cooked with emulsion of patata Negra sprinkled with black truffles. A rich and creamy dish with a touch of earthiness.

The second course was meaty North Sea crabs with ponzu for a hint of citrus and accompanied with both raw and cooked salsify for extra oyster like flavor. Carpaccio of fresh scallops was served next, a light and aromatic broth that was infused with lotus flower and beet root and garnished with crispy beef tongue for texture.

Codfish with cheese and mint followed, an avant-garde combination which created a lovely complex of flavors. The dainty cod fish lay on top of couscous that was supplemented well with carrots and saffron. Afterwards a wonderfully cooked sweetbreads. Made with Japanese artichokes, pickled cauliflower, and puree of split peas with coriander, it stayed in tune with each other to create a flavor that complimented the sweetbreads.

The dessert course commenced with a dark chocolate pudding and kiwi sauce. The sweet and sour taste, along with the bitterness of the dark chocolate posed well with one another. Finally, to finish up the meal and to clean the palate, a refreshing passion fruit yogurt sorbet was served.

Chef Burlat is an ingredient driven chef who only uses what’s available on that day.By cooking them with simplicity he allows the ingredients to be the star of the dish. With the application of classical French techniques he delivers a menu with an arrangement of excellent flavors.

Dome’s wine list is made up of predominantly French. Throughout dinner, the wines paired were French except for one lone Italian wine. The sommelier was fantastic elevating the taste of each dish to another level.

Wine Pairing:

Service at Dome is smooth and friendly. Sophie was there from the moment that I walked into the restaurant until the time I left. She and her staff were attentive and were more relaxed than most restaurants I’ve visited in Europe, they were engaging as well. Sophie provided reading materials as I waited for the next course, although I did not need them as I spent my time talking to her and the server while waiting.

Antwerp restaurant scene is already bustling with some fantastic places and with a restaurant like Dome, it solidifies the city’s gastronomy. With extremely good food and a beautiful setting, Chef Burlat and his wife Sophie have something good going on in this restaurant.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a medication set to treat few ailments. What do you have to regard about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you have to ask your druggist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In complement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are mostly able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile dysfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other people even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.

2015 New York City Michelin Guide

Three Stars:
Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare
Eleven Madison Park
Jean Georges
Le Bernardin
Masa
Per Se

Two Stars:
Aquavit
Atera
Blanca
Daniel
Ichimuri
Jungsik
Marea
Momofuku Ko
Soto

One Star:
15 East
Ai Fiori
Aldea
Andanada
Aureole
Babbo
Bâtard
Betony
Blue Hill
Bouley
The Breslin
Brushstroke
Cafe Boulud
Cafe China
Carbone
Casa Enrique
Casa Mono
Caviar Russe
Danny Brown Wine Bar & Kitchen
Del Posto
Delaware and Hudson
Dovetail
Gotham Bar and Grill
Gramercy Tavern
Hakkasan
Jewel Bako
Juni
Junoon
Kajitsu
Kyo Ya
La Vara
Lincoln
Luksus
Meadowsweet
Minetta Tavern
The Modern
The Musket Room
M. Wells Steakhouse
NoMad
Peter Luger
Picholine
Piora
Pok Pok Ny
Public
The River Café
Rosanjin
Seäsonal
Spotted Pig
Sushi Azabu
Sushi of Gari
Take Root
Telepan
Tori Shin
Torrisi Italian Specialities
Tulsi
Wallsé
Zabb Elee
ZZ’s Clam Bar

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a medication set to treat few ailments. What do you have to regard about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you must ask your pharmacist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In complement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are as a rule able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile dysfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other humanity even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.