Ho Lee Fook 3-5 Elgin Street, Soho Hong Kong, China +852 2810 0860 Website
Frequented by both locals and tourist, Ho Lee Fook in Sheung Wan is one of the most popular places to eat in Hong Kong. Inspired by the old school Hong Kong tea houses and the 1960 New York Chinatown after hours hang-out, this restaurant is the collaboration between Hong Kong-based Black Sheep restaurants hospitality group (who also owns Michelin starred Belon and New Punjab Club), and Taiwanese born Canadian raise chef Jowett Yu.
The first thing guests notice when they enter Ho Lee Fook is the wall of waving lucky cat statues on the right, just in front of an open kitchen with a counter designed with mahjong tiles. Situated in the basement, is the dim lit dining room with low uncovered ceilings and black wooden tables, with smooth tops paired with dark matching benches and dix jx chairs. The walls are decorated with illuminating painting from local artists.
Ho Lee Fook’s menu boasts a more succinct selection which is extremely uncommon for a Chinese restaurant that often overwhelm their guests. The food is meant for sharing, so having two other people with me was perfect. We started with thechongqing-style chicken wings, heaven facing chillies, dried chillies, sichuan pepper. Deep fried chicken wings covered in chilies were bursting with numbing heat. The diverse spiciness from different chilies created a delightful depth of flavors. And the Bamboo salad, pickled lotus root, snow peas, five-spiced tofu, sesame was satiable. It contains a variety of textures and has a certain subtleness to it.
Next to arrive at our table was theroast goose. The goosewas wonderfully roasted. Its skin was crispy, while the meat was juicy and extremely tasty.Hong kong-style french toast, peanut butter, served with maple syrup and condensed milkwas the restaurants take on the city’s most popular dish usually served at tea houses. Although it was sugary and nutty, there was still a strong savory aspect. The French toast must be eaten right away in order for it not to turn soggy.
For the wok friedsection, we had the black angus beef tenderloin, green peppercorn, celery, cashews. Cuts of luscious angus beef were stir-fried with fresh vegetables and cashews. The marinate from the beef provided the much-needed saltiness while the cashews added extra texture on the plate. Steamed barramundi, ginger, green shallotwas a delicate piece of fish garnished with aromatic herbs. The sauce has a pleasing salty sweetness that went well with the barramundi. An order of egg fried rice, crispy garlic, green shallot to go alongwith these two entrées was more than enough to satisfy us and still have room for dessert.
For dessert, “breakfast 2.0” horlicks ice cream, cornflake honey joy, walnut oatmeal, dried longan, cocoa coffee crumbs replicated a bowl of cereal in the morning with the Horlicks ice cream serving as the milk. Cornflakes coated in honey mixed with walnut oatmeal were crunchy. Dried longan and Horlicks ice cream added a musky and malty sweetness. However the bitterness that came from coffee crumbs helped curb all the sweet elements. Guard’s pudding, candied lemon, kavalan whisky cream, warm pudding accompanied with a distinctively flavored whisky ice cream had a nice contrast of warm and cold. The sweetness of pudding was balanced by the ice cream whisky flavor and the candied lemon provided a wonderful citric component.
We thoroughly enjoyed this meal. This was Chinese food reinterpreted by the chefs own modern way of cooking using Pan-Asian ingredients. Dessert on the other hand (at least what we had) were more westernized and were as good as their savory dishes, if not better. For a party of three with some drinks, it cost us about 1500 HKD ($200) which was a decently priced meal especially for the amount of food that we had.
This restaurant is always packed and often booked at any given day. Reservation is a must. The atmosphere at Ho Lee Fook was extremely laid back. There is music blasting in dining room at a manageable level that diners can still have a conversation without raising their voices. The young hipster staff were friendly and had a chill attitude. Service was just fine and nothing to complain about.
Ho Lee Fook was a restaurant that caught my attention when I was in Hong Kong four years ago. Unfortunately, I never got a chance to go at that time. So, when I found myself back in Hong Kong early this year, I made sure to visit. I had to admit it was the name that I remembered very much and what drew me here. To my delight this restaurant did not disappoint with their food. It’s no wonder why Ho Lee Fook is quite popular.
Frantzén Klara Norra kyrkogata 26, 111 22 Stockholm, Sweden +46 8 20 85 80 Website
Though its the most populous city of all the Nordic countries with close to a million people, Sweden’s capital Stockholm is often over shadowed by its more famous neighbor Copenhagen in Denmark as the regions culinary hot bed. However, Stockholm has terrific dining scenes that boast a collection of word class restaurants and Michelin starred places including the three starred Frantzén. The restaurant holds the title as the very first in Sweden to received the highest award from Michelin guide, and one of only three in Scandinavia with this honor. In the list for Worlds 50 Best Restaurant 2019, Frantzén occupies the twenty first place.
Frantzén is the namesake restaurant of chef and owner Bjorn Frantzén who at one time was a professional footballer before hanging his cleats for the apron. Chef Frantzén worked at some of the finest kitchen in Europe like Chez Nico and La Tainte Claire in London, Arpege in Paris, and Edsbacka krog in Sweden, the first two Michelin starred restaurant in the country. In 2008, he opened the restaurant as Frantzén /Lindberg with then partner and pastry chef Daniel Lindberg (whom he met at Arpege) in Gamla Stan “Old Town”of Stockholm. They received the first Michelin star in 2009 and the second followed a year after. When Chef Lindberg left in 2013, the restaurant was renamed to Frantzén and maintained the two star status until closing in 2016. Chef Frantzén re-opened the restaurant after a year of closure at a much larger space occupying an entire building in downtown Stockholm. Within five months of operation it was awarded the ultimate three Michelin stars. Under his Frantzén Group, he also owns the two Michelin starred Zen in Singapore, Bobergs Matsal in Stockholm, and Frantzén Kitchen in Hong Kong. Other projects are also soon to open in Asia.
Obtaining a reservation at Frantzén can be daunting task especially with the time difference in the US. But having a flexible schedule, I was able to snag a lunch time reservation. The Frantzén experience started as soon as I rang the door bell. Within seconds a friendly staff welcomed me and was immediately ushered to the elevator after my reservation was confirmed. As I ascended, “Enter the Sand” was blaring through the speakers in the elevator. When I reached the top floor there is lounge area with a distinctively Scandinavian designed complete with multi-colored plush chairs. I made my way to my seat and was presented with a series of of small bites.
First to arrive was the White beer croustade-cold smoked pike-perch,wild trout roe,shiro kombu, Japanese mustard, followed by the Grape macaroon-whipped foie gras, condensed port wine, Danish rye and hibiscus. Then there was the “raraka”, a Swedish delicacy made from potato pancake and salmon roe that was given a certain refinement. The potato pancake was shaped into a cylinder and filled with cream and salmon roe. Finally, to finish was a tart of Celeriac – preserved truffle, argan oil, nutmeg and Swedish maple syrup. These small snacks were a great preview of what was to come.
I was asked by one of the staff to come by the counter in the back part of the lounge to be shown the fresh and luxurious ingredients that will be used for my meal. Afterwards I was escorted down one flight of stairs into a small kitchen used to prepare the small snacks then into dining room where the chef de cuisine introduce himself before being seated at the counter. The dining room features an open kitchen behind the thick wooden “L” shape counter with high chairs that were surprisingly comfortable. Only fifteen guest can be accommodated at the counter, but there are also a limited number of tables available for group dining.
Frantzén offers one tasting menu at 3200 (at the time of my visit) SEK for both lunch and dinner and consisted of twelve or more courses. The first course of Crudo-scallop, salted tomato and plum water, fermented anchovy, horseradish and purple radish was beautifully presented on a crystal bowl. The mixture of radishes and their different types of spiciness gracefully complemented the subtle sweetness of the raw scallop. Also on this bowl was a medley of salinity, tart, and pickleness that brightly comes together.
Next was the Langoustine-crsipy rice (koshihikari) and clarified butter. The langoustine was deliciously juicy and had a perfect coating of crispiness created by the batter of crispy rice. Served on the side was the clarified butter cream dip with green onion powder which was absolutely flavorful on its own. However having it together with the langoustine was magical.
Chawanmushi-Frantzén prestige caviar, aged pork broth, warm egg custard layered with pork broth then topped off with caviar had a delightful contrast of warm and cold. An element of saltiness from the caviar elevated this custard to another level of decadence. The Chawanmushi was accompanied by a terrific crispy pork skin sprinkled with seaweed powder. The meal continued with Splendid alfonsino, ripe yuzu kosho beurre blanc, uni “XO” and sea buckthorn oil. Splendid alfonsino, Kinmedai in Japanese or also known as golden eye snapper was extremely moist and delicately tasty. Its scales were masterfully fried for an extra crispy texture. Enhancing the fish was the watery sauce that contains butter with hints of spiciness and lime.
What followed after was the Monkfish- fermented muhroom broth, pea miso, hazelnut oil and Jerusalem artichoke. The dense monkfish meat was given a nice charred outer crust while the mushroom broth supplied a beautiful earthiness to it. An artichoke puree that fish sat on was a great addition. Onion,liquorice,almond… a cup of of onion soup covered with almond foam and cream of liquorice was made using only three ingredients. It contains a very distinct onion taste that harmoniously blend with the almonds and the sweetness of liquorice. For much needed texture crushed almonds were added. What a glorious dish that sound simple yet so complex.
Then came the Frantzén signature dish which has been on the menu since 2008, French toast “grand tradition 2008”, truffle, “vacche rosse” and vinegar aged on juniper wood. The French toast was assembled right in front of me. First I was shown a wooden box of black truffle then a piece of toast with cream of vacche rosse. The toast was then covered with generous shaving of truffles before finishing off with a few drops of vinegar. This luxurious French toast is full of sublime flavor that the palate thoroughly adored.
For the main course, Spring lamb ‘’blanc de blanc”, wasabi yoghurt, toasted nori, split peas and mint. Scrumptious lamb was perfectly done, it was soft and enormously moist with a wonderful pink middle. Wasbai yogurt and its chilled herbal spiciness was a pleasant companion to the lamb. There are traces of mint scattered all over which brought a refreshing element on the plate.
Dessert was theButtermilk- and sour rhubarb pumpkin seed praline,saffron sabayone, umeshu and wild strawberries. Itwas creamy and custardy. There were hints of sourness coming from the rhubarb and fruity sweetness from the strawberries. Next was the Frozen Marshmallow, a marshmallow ice cream that was simply refreshing filled with mint and citrus. Not as sweet as I thought it would be. I returned to lounge where I started to finish the meal with freshly baked Madellines (still warm when served) and a collections of sweets that consist of macaroons, chocolates and candies including a fascinating garlic candy that left a lasting impression.
Impeccable is best describe the meal at Frantzén. There was not a single plate on the tasting menu that failed to impress. Its kitchen exhibit superior cooking skills that was on display on every dish. The food was intricate, well thought out with heavy Japanese influence and plenty of light clean flavors.
Wine parings is available along with juice paring which is commonly offered in Scandinavia’s top restaurant. In this part of the continent, wine mark up can be excessive so I decided to pair this tasting menu with a mixture of alcoholic beverage and juices for a more economical value. This was a request that the restaurant gladly accommodate and I first learned can be done if asked when I visited Geranium in Copenhagen years ago. The alcoholic beverages were a collection of sake, European and US wines while the juices were creatively crafted from fruits and herbs. Both gracefully complemented each course.
Wine Pairing:
Frantzén evokes the well-known Scandinavian friendliness. The staff were young full of smile and welcoming. Though it is fine dining, the atmosphere at the restaurant was informal. But the service was still professional. In addition to the servers, the chefs that prepared the food behind the counter also serves them. They were both very informative and clearly explained each courses in great details.
As a Nordic restaurant Frantzén defies the ethos of New Nordic cuisine which utilized foraging the bounty of the region. Instead they rather sourced the finest and luxurious ingredients that money can buy. It is indeed expensive to dine here which was expected for this type of restaurant in Scandinavia. But if one can afford it they are in for a great dining experience.
There are many world class restaurants out there today but there are only a select few that really sit on the top of the echelon. And Frantzén is deservingly among them. This is a dining establishment that delivers and exceeded what is expected. Chef Frantzén has created a restaurant that is a worth a special trip and a must-visit when in Stockholm. Clearly Frantzén is one of the best in my book.
Sant Pau
Carrer Nou, 10, 08395
Sant Pol de Mar, Spain
+34 937 60 06 62
Nestled between Barcelona and Girona, in the North Eastern part of Spain, is the charming seaside town of San Pol De Mar. The town is home to Catalan born chef, Carme Ruscalleda, and her three Michelin Starred Restaurant Sant Pau. Chef Ruscalleda is a culinary superstar who has authored several books and won numerous awards. Her total of seven Michelin stars is second only to Martin Berasategui (with ten) in the nation, while sharing the title with Ann Sophie Pic as the most starred female chef.
Chef Ruscalleda opened Restaurant Sant Pau in 1988 with her husband Tony Balam, and it was awarded a Michelin star in 1991. The second star came in 1996, then eventually the third star in 2008 in which they had continuously maintained up to this day. In addition to San Pau, Chef Ruscalleda also operates a pair of two Michelin starred restaurant, San Pau in Tokyo, and Moments in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Barcelona.
It takes an hour by train to get to Sant Pau from Barcelona. The journey itself is beautiful and scenic as the train runs along the coast. The tracks are a few feet away from the sea, and you can literally watch the waves crashing to the rocks from your seat. From San Pol de Mar train station, the restaurant is meters away situated on a small street and easy to find especially with its colorful façade. Sant Pau’s interior is modest compare to the other three Michelin starred places. The main dining room has an abundance of natural light with walls in rusted yellow. There are well-spaced round tables covered in thick cloth with classic wooden chairs, and they are arranged for the guest to look out to the Mediterranean Sea. Separated by French doors, is another room which is dimly lit with colors of dark red dominating the space.
Sant Pau offers a tasting menu for both lunch and dinner priced at 189 EUR, while also having an a la carte selection. On this visit, I had the tasting menu. To start, the MEMORIES OF A SHOP– cod croquette, spicy green pepper ganxet, black and “del perol” botifarra, bread with tomato salty cheese cake, olives and herbs were small snacks served all at once. They were terrific intro to this meal, but the cheese cake and its savory aspect was particularly delightful.
The first course, was the Japanese Style Cured Dentex – beetroot and vegetables. It had a distinct beets sauce that went extremely well with the cured fish. The garnish of fresh diced mix vegetables provided texture that it needed. The ANIMAL, OR PLANT – anemone ravioli, basil, pistachios was interesting. A ravioli made from sea anemone (a type of animal related to jelly fish and corals) features a clean oceanic taste.
TERROIR FLAVORS- dewlap, beans, xiulet, romesco sauce was a medley of green beans on top of salty romesco sauce. To cut down the sauce saltiness and balance the dish, fat from the pork neck was brilliantly used. Next was the KING PRAWN TWIST-tomato and strawberry velvet which consisted ofmeaty large prawns that were drenched in floral and vegetal essence lingering sweetness. That was followed by JAPANESE WAGYU-bread, labneh of fine herbs; cubes of flavorful wagyu beef cooked medium rare set on top of crispy cracker covered with shaved parmesan. The pickled cucumber and the fermented yogurt had different types of pleasant sourness that mingled with other ingredients without overpowering them.
The meal continued withthe GAMBA TAILS- with saffron, celeriac and green peas. This consists of nicely cooked shrimp tails, accompanied by creamy celeriac, and infused with a wonderful sharp shrimp taste and aroma. MONKFISH LOIN-curry, chutney, asparagus and morels was a piece of tender monk fish covered in leafy vegetables and asparagus. The pair of curry and chutney dots on the plate added an extra flavor to the monkfish while the morels gave it a touch of nuttiness.
For the main course, the CHILDHOOD MEMORIES-Girona veal with fairy ring mushrooms was a scrumptious veal coated in thick lightly sweetened sauce, topped with vegetable gelatin, and almond crisp. The mushroom supplied a beautiful earthy element to the veal.
HOJICHA TEA-yuzu sorbet was the palate cleanser. The tea was served cold and had subtle citric acidity that was quite refreshing. It successfully removed any savory remnant left in the palate. The sweet courses began with the HONEY AND CUSTARD CHEESE-new concept jellatine honey sweet cheese, which was a cube of cheese custard enclosed in translucent gelatin honey. This had terrific layers of honey and creamy sweetness. The EL MARESME-roses and strawberries had an apparent sugary rose presence that was enticing. Finally, the main dessert, MISSIVE TO THE CLIENT-sakura, ginger, passion fruit had a mild sweetness combined with some bitterness, spiciness, and tartness. The mixture created an enjoyable dessert dish.
I was offered a choice to conclude at my table or at the court yard. Since this was a nice sunny day, I chose the latter. I was then given a tour of the kitchen before being led to my table outdoor where I was served the A CHOCOLATE PIG-lime and lemon amber, Jamaican pepper meringue, Amarula macaroon,raspberry marshmallow, coffee nougat sea water bonbon. In order to get to all the sweet stuff, the pig had to be broken with a reflex hammer. This was a playful way to end to this meal.
The tasting menu titled “30 Years of Santpolean Gastronomy” (a reflection Sant Pau’s three decades of history) was an impressive performance overall. It showed a high degree of cooking skills, and the ingredients used in every plate was superb. The modern Catalan cuisine that they served was light and compose of different flavors that were beautifully arrange. Their sauces not only worked as a complement but also added depth of flavors. The wine pairing for 59 EUR is considered a bargain, which featured wines from Catalonia, and consisted of ten glasses that were selected by the sommelier to enhance the taste in each course.
Wine Pairing:
San Pau staff were particularly attentive, accommodating and well informed. They explained each course in the tasting menu clearly and in detail. Mr. Balam had a welcoming attitude that was mirrored by the staff. He is the first to greet the guest as they arrive and his presence in the dining was significant. He took his time stopping by every table to chat with the guest more than once during the course of the meal.
With a tasting menu price at 189 EUR, Sant Pau is one the very few affordable three Michelin starred restaurant out there. But that price point did not diminish the quality of food it offers, and the dining experience it provided.
After my visit, news broke that Sant Pau will close in October 27th joining the like of Joel Robuchon in Singapore, Germany’s La Vie and Chihana (due to fire) in Kyoto as the other three Michelin starred establishments to cease operation this year. Chef Ruscalleda decided to focus on other projects, the restaurant will eventually morph in to a wine bar and will be run by her daughter. The impending closure is a great loss for the nations that prides itself for having world renowned restaurants. During its thirty years of existence, Sant Pau has gradually turned into one of the best in Spain, and made Chef Carme Ruscalleda a household name.
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester
53 Park Ln, Mayfair,London
W1K 1QA, UK
+44 20 7629 8866 Official Site
Alain Ducasse is one of the most decorated and influential chef/ restaurateur in the world. He holds an astronomical 18 Michelin stars (only bested by Joel Robuchon), including three restaurants in different cities with three stars; a feat that he was the first to accomplished. This was no easy task, but Chef Ducasse remarkably managed to achieve this twice. His dining empire stretches continents and his restaurant can be found in every major global city like New York, London, Paris, Hong Kong and Tokyo. In London, he has the three Michelin starred Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, and Rivea in the Bulgari Hotel.
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester opened its door in 2007. Within two years, it was awarded two stars by the Michelin guide. A year later the ultimate third star came; joining the ranks of Restaurant Gordon Ramsey, The Waterside Inn and The Fat Duck as the only restaurant in the UK to have three stars. Taking charge of the kitchen from day one and responsible for the restaurants ascession to the top was head chef Jocelyn Harland; who has since been dispatched to lead Le Meurice in Paris in early 2016. Sous chef Jean-Philippe Blondet, a veteran of the Ducasse restaurant group was promoted to head chef. He was tasked to maintain the Ducasse standard and under his leadership Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester retained its three stars in the current UK Michelin guide.
This flagship restaurant of the iconic Dorchester Hotel in Mayfair has an understated interior, with a touch of contemporary elegance. The dining room is surrounded by wooden paneled walls;, the tables are dressed in beige and white cloth, and the chairs are draped with lush leather. Its center piece, “Table Lumiere”, a private table for up-to-six guests is surrounded by fiber optics strand. Separated from the main dining room next to the windows is another area with additional tables. The space has plenty of natural lights, and Hyde Park serves as its background. Chandeliers shaped in metallic leaves stretched from one end to the other and hangs above its tall ceiling.
A la carte, tasting menu and a seasonal tasting menu are offered for both afternoon and evening while a special three course is available for lunch. On this visit, I had the seven course tasting menu for 145 GBP that started with a handful of gourges or cheese puffs. Soft and airy cheese puffs are flavored with either paprika or pepper was nice to snack on while waiting. First course was the Dorset crab celeriac and caviar. Thinly sliced celeriac rolled and stuffed with tasty crab meat are topped with caviar. The caviar topping was a great way to elevate the crab meat, giving it a bite of saltiness. As a bonus, a extra crispy crab claw fried in tempura batter is added to the already savory plate.
Next were the Guinea fowl and duck foie gras terrine rhubarb. The terrine was scrumptious and had delightful richness. Providing a certain tartness to complement the terrine was the rhubarb. The third course, saute gourmand of lobster truffled chicken quenelles, was the signature dish of the restaurant. Lobster, chicken and pasta drowning in cream sauce packed of wonderful deep savory flavors. This course was the highlight of the meal.
Line-caught sea bass cucumber and juniper came after.The sea bass was firm yet delicately tender and was seasoned beautifully. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same with the cucumber on the plate as it was a tad too salty for my palate. For the main course, I was served the Milk-fed lamb green peas and mint. Perfectly cooked lamb chops were extremely succulent and flavorful. Along with the peas and the green vegetable puree on this dish, the mint accompanied the lamb fittingly.
The cheese course was an Assortment of four French cheeses with varying types of textures and sharpness. Served with different condiments, the spicy puree worked particularly very well with all four cheeses.
The sweet course started with Mignardises & Gourmandise; consisting of macaroons, homemade caramel candy, coated almonds and chocolates all presented at the same time while desert followed shortly. Marking the end of the meal, I was served Berry contemporary vacherin that was mightly sweet and almost syrupy. However, the sweetness was wonderfully subdued by the vacherin, and its savory and acidic features. There was also a cold aspect to desert that was quiet refreshing.
With the exception of the cucumber in the sea bass course, this was a very good meal where the cooking standard is equally as high as the execution. I find their Modern French cuisine to be light and satisfying. In each course, the individual components worked together harmoniously, striking the right balance on the plate. To go along with this tasting, I requested for the 95 GBP wine paring that included Alain Ducasse’s own champagne label. The pairing was perfect, all seven individual glasses enhanced the flavors in each course it was paired with. The restaurants wine list is plentiful and consists of predominantly French wines and some from continental Europe and Australia. I was extremely surprised to see US wines on their list.
The service was polished and faultless. The multicultural staff exudes calm and confidence. They worked the busy dining room flawlessly and discreetly, glancing unnoticeably at every table often assuring diners were properly looked after.
Wine Pairing:
This was my first foray to an Alain Ducasse establishment. The service and the setting is what I anticipated. The food, though it was very good it just did not exceed what I was hoping for. Perhaps it was the name associated with it or the three Michelin stars that set my expectation too high. Nevertheless Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, is still worthy of the label as one of the finest dining venue that London has to offer.
Having visited a handful of Michelin starred, World’s 50 Best and other top restaurants in Asia and Europe, 2016 was great dining year. My journey began at Hong Kong where I dined at Lung King Heen, the very first three Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in the world. Needless to say, it had an extremely high quality Cantonese food. The restaurants location on the fourth floor of the Four Season hotel boasts a panoramic view of Victoria Harbor. The two Michelin-starred Amber at Landmark Mandarin Oriental offers a terrific weekend wine lunch which consists of five courses paired with four glasses of wine. This was one of the best deals out there at 928 HKD for a restaurant at this caliber. Dinner at the L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (the only of the L’Ateliers with three Michelin stars) was also quite superb.
I waited in queue for hours at Tim Ho Wan in Sham Shui Po, which at that time was the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world (until that distinction was awarded to Singapore’s Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken in the summer of last year). The dim sum was tasty and I enjoyed every single dish that I had. Frog legs and chicken congee at Tasty Congee & Wuntun Noodle Shop in the IFC was nothing short of delicious. Even better was the chicken and fish congee at the concierge recommended Sang Kee Congee Shop in Sheung Wan. 208 Ducento Otto serves up wonderful cocktails while Angel Share Whisky Bar & Restaurant and its expansive list of whisky is a must-visit for enthusiast while in Hong Kong.
That same journey through Asia led me to Tokyo, Japan. I had my very first meal in this sprawling metropolis at RyuGin, Chef Seiji Yamamoto’s flagship restaurant which has three Michelin stars and ranked number 31 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant. The modern kaiseki that it serves is a reflection of the agricultural bounty of Japan. With each dish skillfully prepared, this was one of the best meals I’ve had. In Ginza, the Omakase at the three Michelin-starred Sushi Yoshitake did not disappoint. The fish and other seafood used in every single piece of Nagiris were extremely fresh. Sushi might be star of the show at this restaurant, but the cooked dishes were equally sublime. It was highlighted by the abalone liver sauce mixed with sushi rice which was a mind-blowing dish that still resonates in my memory.
Hideki Ishikawa is Japan’s most decorated chef/restaurateur with three restaurants under his belt totaling eight Michelin stars. He also has the distinction shared by the likes of the Robuchon’s , the Keller’s and the Ducasse’s to have two restaurants at the same with the maximum rating from the Michelin guide. At his eponymous Ishikawa, I was served a wonderful contemporary style kaiseki that shows simplicity with plenty of subtle flavors. I also visited Kohaku the other three star restaurant of Chef Ishikawa, which is located in the same area and within walking distance from each other. The kitchen is under Koji Koizumi a disciple of Chef Ishikawa. There are many of similarities between them, but the two are distinctly different at the same time. Kohaku is a more modern prepared kaiseki that incorporate foreign ingredients, which are not usually use in Japanese cuisine.
Japan is surprisingly home to one of the finest French restaurant outside of France. Others can argue that it might better than its home country due to the high quality of ingredients it uses produced by Japan. Many of the top French chefs has an outpost sprinkled throughout country, but a large number of them are concentrated in Tokyo. I had a superb tasting menu at Chef Pierre Gaganaire, Two restaurant Peirre Gagnaire Au Tokyo on the 35floor of the ANA Intercontinental, which was awarded two Michelin stars. Each plate were carefully crafted, using only the finest local ingredients. As a bonus, guests enjoyed the scenic view of the whole city as the backdrop while dining. In Roppongi Hills, I dined at Chef of the Century Joel Robochon L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. Along with Paris, the Tokyo branch is one of the first L’Ateliers. Having previously gone to the Hong Kong location, these two Michelin starred restaurant are a lot more casual, yet the quality of food is equally top-notched.
Inside the train station in Ginza, resides a minuscule ramen shop called Kagari Echika, which has garnered a lot of following. They served me tasty bowl of ramen, with a broth that has a certain delightful creaminess. In Shinjuku, high above the mall of the train station is Tenichi, where I had some delicate fried tempura accompanied with fresh sashimi. While at Sushi Mamire, I was served with affordable yet enjoyable pieces of sushi and rolls. Pagliaccio Due in Shiba, is an Italian restaurant that serves pleasant dishes like the Seafood Rissotto, and the spaghetti with fish. Night caps in the New York Bar at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, were made lively with tunes from a funky jazz show. Soon after I feasted with the hotel famous weekend brunch. Finally, visiting Japan is not complete without trying the world famous Kobe beef. At Kobe Beef Kaiseki 511, I had a magical experience without breaking the bank. The beef was as good as advertised, and every bite was heavenly like cotton candy that melts in the mouth.
From Izakaya’s, to noodle shops, to high end kaiseki, sushi (as well as low end), and to fine French restaurants, I had the greatest time dining in Tokyo. The uncompromising use of quality ingredients in this city restaurant makes Tokyo the gastronomic capital of the world. The two weeks I spent there was simply not enough.
The next stop in my search and passion for fine dining was a short trip to Basel, Switzerland. I had the opportunity to dine at the three Michelin star, Cheval Blanc. The restaurant is located in one of Europe’s oldest hotel Le Trois Rois. Bavarian chef Pete Knogl, is in charge of the kitchen and under his leadership Cheval Blanc was elevated to culinary stardom. The tasting menu has global influences and shows the precision cooking technique of Chef Knogl. Each dish was light and has a fantastic complex combination of flavors and textures.
I couldn’t end 2016 without grazing the home front for some great eats. After all, no one can beat New York City in anything, (at least to a New Yorker that is). I had very good meals at the Upper East Side’s, The NUAA. This beautifully decorated restaurant serves refined Thai fare that’s geared towards the Western palate. Last year, I saw an onslaught of new eateries opening up in the Financial District improving the neighborhood’s restaurants scene. Among them is Eataly Downtown which opened to the public last summer. Much smaller than its older siblings in the Flatiron, this mega food market brought a slew of dining options that includes another outlet of the seafood haven, Il Pesce. The restaurant offers appetizing sustainable seafood prepared in the simplest form. As the last stop of my 2016 journey, West Village Carma Asian Tapas, served an unmatchable creative Far Eastern fare in small plate format. I enjoyed the way the kitchen recreated classic Chinese dishes, as well as using other Western ingredients that aren’t usually found in Asian cooking.
Though 2016 didn’t boast much of my hometown’s variety of eateries, it was a star studded year of dining in the international level. Overall, I would say it was great and successful year of eating. I’m looking forward to an even better 2017 where I plan to focus on New York City, its outer boroughs and state side. Hopefully, I can sprinkle few international trips here and there.
For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be elaborate. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a therapy prescribed to treat few ailments. What do you have to view about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you must ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In complement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile dysfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other people even if their state appears to be the same as yours.
The NUAA
1122 1st Avenue
New York, NY 10065
(212) 888-2899 Official Site
*This restaurant is now closed.
The NUAA is a Thai restaurant in the Upper East Side next to the famous Dangerfield Comedy club. The owner and chef is Bangkok born Pitipong Bowornneeranar, a veteran of the New York City restaurant scene with over 20 years of experience working at different kitchens throughout the city. At the NUAA Chef Bowornneeranar serves modern Thai fare prepared with a great deal of attention to details.
The NUAA can’t be missed, with its red, wooden double doors along First Avenue. A lounge area with its own seating and a bar welcomes guests as soon as they walk into the restaurant. Toward the back is the dining room, decorated with detailed wood work, smooth dark table tops, coupled with matching armless leather padded chairs. Covering the ceiling and illuminating the space are metal plates shaped in petals with light bulbs. The stylish interior is made for a venue that can be found in the Meatpacking rather than the Upper East Side.
Though extensive the menu is not overwhelming. It’s broken down to soup/salad, starters, entrée’s and classic dishes. A cheaper prefix for $15 is available during lunch time with items that are also available during dinner.
Salad like the SOM TUM-Green papaya salad, dried shrimp, peanuts, bird-eye chili vinaigrette was tremendously fresh and crunchy. Its vinaigrette dressing provided an extra depth of sourness and piquancy. Sprinkle of dried shrimp added textures as well as some saltiness to the salad. For appetizers the KHAI LOK KHAEY Son-in-law fried quail eggs, Black pepper Brioche, crispy shallots, plum sugar-tamarind sauce, was a classic Thai food that was reinvented at the restaurant by using quail eggs instead of regular eggs, and served on top of a brioche. The plum sugar-tamarind sauce sweet and sour elements were terrifically mixed with the savory quail eggs. LARB PLA Yellow fin spicy tuna tartar, Thai crispy taco, green herbs, red chili-kaffir lime vinaigrette, came in three delightful mini tacos with freshly chopped tuna. PO PIA TOD Crispy celery root-wild mushroom rolls, mixed vegetable, glass noodle, red Holland pepper-tamarind sauce, were spring rolls with tasty vegetables stuffing.
For entrée I chose the PLA NUENG Steamed Chilean sea bass, Soya bean, tender cauliflower, ginger soy reduction. A wonderful steamed fish that had a dense yet tender texture and was asserted by its tangy sauce of ginger soy. An accompaniment of colorful cauliflowers and vegetables created a visually appealing plate that tastes as good as it looks. PLA TOD Crispy skin whole Branzino, Caramelize cashew nut, green mango salad, spicy chili-lime vinaigrette was the most expensive item in the menu at $31. A whole Branzino fried precisely to have the skin side extra crispy while the inner part was pleasingly firm. Dipping sauce of spicy chili-lime vinaigrette provided an extra layer of flavor.
The KA NOM JEEN Colossal crab curry noodle Fedelini, pickled mustard green, sweet basil was a bowl of noodles mixed with delicious crabmeatcovered in curry. This was a well balance dish where each ingredient worked together without overpowering one another. GAI YANG Kaffir lime infused Cornish game Hen 44 hours marinade, Brussels sprouts, eggplant caviar nam prik. The hen was cooked beautifully and packed with flavors. Brussels sprout, eggplant and other vegetables was a pleasing addition to this dish.
There were only two desserts on the menu, the White Chocolate Coconut Mousse Mango passion fruit, pandan jelly, coconut coated chiffonwhich had a blend of refreshing and fruity sweetness and the Cream Fraiche Vanilla Cheesecake Walnut brittle, short bread, strawberry jam, jasmince cream was rich and sugary. Both dish were good enough to end a meal on a sweet note.
With an average price of $23 for the entrée The NUAA is a tad pricier for a Thai restaurant that New Yorkers are usually accustomed to but also reasonable by New York City standard. Justifying these prices was the skillful cooking techniques that the kitchen displays. The successful mixtures of sweet, spicy and sour produce bold and intense flavors while having a strong emphasis on appearance.
After a year between visits, the menu has changed with some of the dishes I had previously were no longer available. Having been back to The NUAA a couple times in the last few months the food had remained particularly very good and the service, as always, pleasant and welcoming. The staff are always on point in addressing my needs and answering my questions.
Thai food is known to be one of New Yorkers quintessential fare. The love for it created a buffet of Thai restaurants in the five boroughs. The saturated market produces an even keel of terrific eateries, with some earning a Michelin star like Somtum Der, Pok Pok, and Uncle Boons. The NUAA, on the other hand, not only impresses diners with their flavorsome Thai food but also with its stylish interior and excellent service.
For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a medication prescribed to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you have to ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are mostly able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may turn on erectile malfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other people even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
2F Hillside, Roppongi Hills
6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku
Tokyo, Japan
106-0032
+81 3-5772-7500 Official Site
In 2003, super star chef Joel Robuchon came out of retirement to launch the first L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Tokyo. The success led to outpost in major cities like London, Paris, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore and will soon re-launch in New York. The concept of the L’Ateliers dining style was inspired from the chef’s admiration of Japanese dining. This typical setting is where the guest sits around the counter behind an open kitchen providing the front row seats to their meal. Most of the meals consists of small plates which is an influence from Spain’s notorious tapas. Coincidentally, Spain is where Chef Robuchon currently calls home.
Located in the upscale development of Roppongi Hills, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon has earned two Michelin stars. He ensures that this standard is kept by leaving it in the hands of Japanese chef, Kenichiro Sekiya. Chef Robuchon expects nothing but the best as he maintains his accolades along a string of other venues in Tokyo, all of which totals seven Michelin stars.
His taste for high quality does not end with the combining the styles of Europe and Asia into his dishes, his knack for class flows into the designs of his venues. L’Atelier for one is designed with a long glossy dark mahogany counter that stretches the length of the space providing guests with a sense of ease and comfort. These warm tones are paired with high chairs with short back rest, accented with two top bar tables. The interior color scheme is a theme of L’Ateliers black and deep red branding. This particular location also houses, La Boutique de Joel Robuchon, which is a pastry and bakery shop.
The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner where one can find many set- menus to choose from. A popular choice is the a la carte, in which guests are able to design their meal from a large number of items in the menu.
On the night of my visit I came with a dining companion and we each ordered a different set menu. We were thrilled to be able to sample multiple dishes. To start the meal, we had morsels of fried quinoa balls, very similar to what I had in the Hong Kong branch a week ago. Then came the renowned L’Ateliers breadbasket, a carb monger’s delight for sure. For the appetizer we had LA BETTERAVE-Beets and apple duo served with an herb salad and a green mustard sherbet. The distinctiveness of the beets was perfectly paired with the intensity of the green mustard sherbet. The cauliflower mousse served on snow crab with caviar had a wonderful consistency. Its luxurious topping of caviar presented a deep salty undertones to this excellent dish.
The soup courses like LA CHÂTAIGNE- Chestnut cream soup with smoked bacon and celery had a lavish blend of creaminess. LES RAVIOLES-Duck Liver ravioli in a warm chicken broth, with herbs and spicy cream had a marriage of many savory flavors with just the right hint of herbal and spicy presence.
For entrees, LA PINTADE -Roasted guinea fowl served with pastoral salad and natural gravy was roasted with fantastic crispiness. The inner part of the meat was moist and juicy. An accompaniment of the world famous Robuchon mash potatoes was served with this dish. LE CHEVREUIL-Roasted venison accompanied with stewed red cabbage, brown butter sauce, and venison had to be prepared with utmost love. The scrumptious venison meat seemed to have been painted with gorgeous colors that were indicative of its bursting flavors. LE BLACK COD – Black cod with Yuzu Daikon velouté, spice scented oil, was a beautiful tender piece of fish that had a bit of sweetness while also having a citrus and spicy notes.
To top it off, the cheese course offered were intricately concocted of cheeses imported straight from France. I allowed my server to choose it for me, I was served with three types of cheese with different textures and pungency. The desserts that I had was the Chocolate soufflé which was made to order. This chocolaty delight was served warm and had a soft spongy textures. EL-ANDALUZ -Strawberry marinated with lime, tequila sherbet and tomato-strawberry coulis was fruity and cold with a noticeable refreshing tequila presence. Who wouldn’t want a tequila presence in everything, much less dessert?
The service was interactive and relaxed. The well-trained staff in their black and red uniforms managed the restaurant guest that comprised of both foreigners and locals effortlessly. We had a French man served us through the whole dinner who had a friendly personality and conversed in perfect English. He was extremely helpful and honest when it came to his recommendations. The Japanese servers that occasionally came to us were pleasant and tried their best to communicate.
The different L’Ateliers serves similar dishes all across the board, but the Tokyo location on the other hand might have a slight edge from others due to the quality of ingredients that it uses. The dishes were not only presented with such class but the combination of taste and quality was effortlessly served, and of course, welcomed.
I found that the dining at this restaurant was less of the upper class nature and approachable compared to the Hong Kong outpost (which have three Michelin stars and the only other L’Ateliers ive been to) where I dined a few days prior. This casual and yet interactive atmosphere at Tokyo’s L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon is quite enjoyable.
Pierre Gagnaire
at ANA Inetrcontinental Tokyo
36 Floor
1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato 1070052
Tokyo, Japan
+81 3-3505-1111 Official Site
In Tokyo, French is a cuisine that is well represented. Some may even argue that of the shear top quality of ingredients that Japan produces, French food is slightly better here than anywhere else; even in France! The crème de la crème of French chefs have set up restaurants in this city, like the super star chef Pierre Gagnaire, who’s been in Tokyo for quite some time now. He first opened Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo in Aoyama back in 2005, before closing it three years later. In 2010 after a two year hiatus he returned to Tokyo in partnership with the Intercontinental Hotel Group to open Pierre Gagnaire at the ANA Intercontinental hotel in Minato-ku. Immediately the restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars which it maintained ever since. Executive Chef Yosuke Akasaka leads the charge in this kitchen. He has worked with Pierre Gagnaire at his eponymous restaurant in Paris and was also the head chef at the old Tokyo location.
Occupying the 36th floor of the hotel, Pierre Gagnaire offers a fantastic view of the city and Tokyo Tower through its massive windows. In the afternoon, the restaurant has plenty of natural lights while at night the bright lights of Tokyo serves as it’s the back drop. The spacious dining room has tables that were covered in neatly pressed linens, and they are distanced far apart enough from one another for a more intimate setting. Comfortable royal purple velvet chairs and curved banquets with tall back rest were paired with the tables. Wood panel walls adorned with beautiful artwork adds to the sophistication of the interior.
There are many set menu options in addition to the a la carte. On my visit I had the “Petit Esprit de Pierre Gagnaire” for YEN 22500, which consisted of five courses. A series of canapes started the meal, beginning with Roots vegetable soup:salpicon of Botan shrimps and lotus chips. This soup was rich with wonderful flavors of root vegetables. It also had a little sourness that was palpable. Sauerkraut in Espuma, red cabbage and apricot salad, cubes Gewurtzraminer was a cup of thick savory creaminess. Buried underneath, was the apricot salad bursting with a unique musky sweetness. Green brandade, petals of cod, thin slice of red/black radish was a salty dish, but with a nice light watery crunch coming from the radishes. It also offers a hint of bitterness that balanced out the salt. Chaud-Froid of chicken from Nagoyakochin perfumed with tarragon, salmon eggs and campari yogurt sauce, is a creation in which each tiny piece of chicken was carefully selected, as they are usually the finest and priciest in Japan. This type of chicken comes from Nagoya and is an epitome of what a bite of luxury taste like. To cleanse the palate, there was a refreshing citrus Champagne sorbet flavored with lime and frozen clementine.
Petit Esprit de Pierre Gagnaire:
The first course was the Abalone slice and poached in shellfish broth-Saffron braised turnips. Excellent tender chewy abalone had a terrific apparent marine taste. Next was the Brittany sole roasted in Sarawak pepper, small shrimp Shimaebi seared with Cognac Galette of Satoimo endive leaf. It had beautiful well rounded flavors with some spiciness. The sole has firm, yet soft textures. All the elements in the dish were in synch with each other.
For the main course I was served the Lamb Saddle cooked in crepine perfumed with marjolaine flower, cauliflower puree and black garlic, green lentil gnocchi. Scrumptious lamb meat was prepared with a lot of care and has plenty of flavors that were complimented greatly with other component on the plate such as the puree and the sauce.
Quelques dessert de Pierre-Gagnaire was a composition of different desserts served at the same time. This tantalizing platter was highlighted by the chocolate cake. The cake was rich, sweet with layers of different types of chocolate while the rest of the dessert was chilled, refreshing and fruity. The petit fours were enjoyable small bites of sweetness that ended this meal.
The “Petit Esprit de Pierre Gagnaire” was a superb tasting menu. A fusion of French cooking technique and high standard Japanese ingredients morphed together to create fascinating flavor profile. Both small and large plate exhibits focus and details. The servings were adequate that left me satisfied rather than full. There was no set wine pairing, but the wine list is vast and was made up of primarily French wine from different regions of the country. The restaurant also had a decent wine by the glass offerings that were reasonably price. Wanting red for this meal the sommelier recommendation of Bordeaux Pauillac was on point.
The restaurant is very formal but with Japanese sincere hospitality. The service was particularly attentive and faultless. English were spoken well that servers were able to explain each of the courses and answered my questions clearly.
In the Far East Pierre Gagnaire has a restaurant in Tokyo, Hong Kong and Seoul in addition to his others in Europe. It was said by those that had visited all three the Tokyo location is the better one. What separates it from the rest is the superior quality of ingredients that are being used, but also an extremely skilled chef in Chef Akasaka. The chef is very well capable in upholding Pierre Gagnaire cooking standard and mirrors the excellence of a living legend.
For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a therapy set to treat few ailments. What do you have to regard about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your pharmacist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are as a rule able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile dysfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other men even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.
RyuGin
7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato
Tokyo, Japan
106 0032
+81 3-3423-8006 Official Site
It is the uncompromising standard of the Japanese culture of using only the finest ingredients in their culinary master pieces that has produced world renowned restaurants biggest names in the culinary world. Japan is booming with multitudes of up and coming places to wine and dine. Tokyo, the capital, is not only the gastronomic epicenter of the nation, but also in the world. The city has more Michelin stars than anywhere else on this planet, and holds the record with thirteen restaurants awarded the three-star status. One particular three star restaurant that piqued my interest was RyuGin in Roppongi.
The restaurant opened in 2003 by a very talented chef, Seiji Yamamoto, who previously spent eleven years at the ultra-traditional Aoyagi in Tokyo. RyuGin received two stars in 2009 from the Tokyo’s Michelin guides inaugural edition and then the third star in 2010 which it has maintained since. Regarded among the top dining destination the restaurant is constantly included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and in Asia’s 50 Best.
Japanese restaurants require guests to be on time when it comes to their reservation and many do not have a waiting area for those arriving early. RyuGin is different, when I arrived about ten minutes early I was escorted to a second floor waiting area, also known as their tea room. The cozy room had a live owl enclosed behind the bar. When my table was ready the hostess led me to a quiet dining room with no windows. The atmosphere was nothing short of serene. A thick black cloth covered the table and chairs with wooden backrests were surprisingly comfortable. The space is small, with only eighteen seats, and has a separate private room with its own sliding door. Like many Japanese three Michelin starred restaurants in Tokyo, this lacks the opulence interior that their western counterparts have. Only open during dinner service, RyuGin offers a keiseki menu at YEN 27000(a shorter version for YEN 21000 also available only after 9 pm).
“Beginning with a variety of Sensation. Seasonality, Aroma, Temperature, Texture and Assemblage” was the appetizer course which started the meal. It came in two parts, first was the Cod Milt, Turnip Yuzu. This bowl of Japanese delicacy had an interesting custard like texture. The milt’s richness was complemented well by the yuzu tea zest that serves as the broth. The second was a salad, Surf Clams, Assorted Vegetables and Dried Sea Cucumber. The mildness of the clams where fittingly mixed with wonderful vegetables. Dried sea cucumbers were added to give the dish some crunch.
The next course was “Longing for The Moment, Winter Story. Bathing Hotpot”Matsuba Crab and Seiko Crab. This was a flavorful hot pot with two delicious type of crab meat. Served on a separate plate was a crab claw with exposed meat, I was instructed by my server to dip it in the hot pot for the meat to absorb the crab infused broth.Extremely fresh bonito, red rock fish and squid sashimi makes up the “Sashimi: A Message from the Coast of Japan. Richness of the Sea, Tidal Current” Ocean Delicacy Displayed in 3 Plates. This seafood pleasure had an assortment of features, like the vibrant reddish meat of the bonito which has a unique taste while the red rock fish was full of beautiful fatty flavors. The squid on the other hand had a slight sweetness that went along with the rubbery textures.
That was followed by “Binchotan- A Powerful Scent of Charcoal grill” Grilled Sea Pech Seasoned with Assortment of Chilli Powder and Sprinkled Chestnut . The sea perch was grilled elegantly maintaining its delicateness. Chestnuts and other herbs not only gave the fish an additional crust, but also exuded an appealing fragrance. Giving this course a different aspect was shark fin fried tempura style with shiso leaf and uni, a terrific crispiness which had excellent flavors that included some slight herbal notes.
Then came “What’s inside once you open the lid… A sense of relaxation” “Goemon Tofu” “Sprinkled Chestnut”. The attributes were very much akin to tofu, but more refined and of greater quality. Chestnuts added texture and also provided the tofu its distinct sweetness.
The meal continued on with the “Grace of the Hometown as Ambassador of Kagawa’s Heritage” Famous Sanuki Olive Beef with small balls, a tribute to the prefecture of Kagawa, home to olives and high quality beef called sanuki that had been fed part of olives. This outstanding dish was prepared by smoking the beef in olives, giving the gorgeous meat an extra touch of smoky olive flavor. There was a side of olive salt which was interesting and quail eggs which was unexpectedly good when eaten with the beef.A rice dish towards the end followed by a soup was the typical order in a keiseki meal. It was combined in “The land of Rice plant. Pleasure of eatingoff the same trencher “New Rice”.Sea urchin Rice. National Flower of Japan “Chrysanthemum” Soup. Served on a round wooden tray was a rice bowl topped with decadent Hokkaido sea urchin and a bowl of miso soup. The soup had a clear and clean taste. For visual appeal and aesthetic, in the soup was a piece of tofu that was methodically cut in a shape of chrysanthemum, homage to Japan’s national flower.
Moving on, the pre desert course was a mouthful to read off the menu, but did not disappoint. The “Lusciousness. Coolness, Warmth, Playful Spirits, Nostalgia and Temptation” Sunshine Filtering through Foliage, Mandarin Sanshou definitely lived up to its name. On the plate was a perfectly peeled mandarin with black tea ice cream and sprinkled with sanshou. It has a nice contrast of spiciness and sour sweet the small cubes of Japanese cheese were spread throughout balancing the sweetness of the sauce made from wasanbon. This was a simple dish but with a lot of complexity. For dessert, Oryzae “National Fungus” Pride of Japan. Hot Sake and Cold Sake Sweet Flavors . An inventive method in creating a soufflé made from sake. The soufflé had an airy texture was served warm where the sake could be profoundly recognized, the same can be said about the ice cream. There was a good sweetness in both while also having a slight bitterness. Chef Yamamoto showcased the versatility of sake by using it as the main component of a sweet dish was a stroke of genius. Finally ending the meal was a fantastic bowl of matcha tea.
Every plate of each course in this kaiseki menu is chef’s Yamamoto reflection of the agricultural richness of Japan. The flavor profiles are strictly Japanese, subtle and minimalist but prepared with modern techniques. There was a high standard of cooking and creativity shown. The quality of ingredients is second to none as they only use the finest seasonal ingredients that were sourced locally and throughout Japan. From the food preparation to kitchenware all the way to the sequences of dishes that follows the traditional kaiseki there were many intricate details that were executed with precision. Accompanying beverage pairing, consisting of eight glasses of European wines and sakes were paired brilliantly. Each drink brought a different dimension of taste at the end of every bite.
WIne Pairing:
Throughout my meal I was served by an English speaking staff who also handled a large majority of foreign guests that were dining during my visit. Its Japanese counterpart was equally pleasant and tried their best to communicate at a rare time when they were the ones that brought my food. Service was focused yet at the same time approachable with a willingness to engage in quick conversation without taking too much of the guests time. On my way out I was handed a parting gift, a bottle containing water from Mount Fuji. Before reaching the exit Chef Yamamoto came out hurriedly to say his goodbye, thanking me and to see me out the door. The chef and the staff at RyuGin exemplify the humbleness of Japanese hospitality.
Many self-proclaimed amazing restaurants rely on their aesthetics for measure, but the great ones will always rely on the food they serve. Authentic gems such as New York’s Eleven Madison Park, Peru’s Central and Italy’s Osteria Francescana, all serve muti-course menus that tell tales of their roots. Chef Yamamoto’s creations are grounded by his culture, and yet his ability to embrace the modernity that surrounds him, and express this fusion into his ingredients, has garnered him many praises. His accomplishments throughout the years created a mini restaurant empire that includes the two Michelin starred Tenku RyuGin in Hong Kong and Syoun RyuGin in Taipei. His devotion still lies in Tokyo where he continues to run the kitchen. With a plethora of great places to eat in Tokyo it was very difficult to choose one, but without the journey of trying many other places, I wouldn’t have experience the magic of RyuGin. It has left an incredible impression on me, and will consider my dining experience there one of the most unique and unforgettable.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
at The Landmark Atrium
15 Queen’s Road, Central
Hong Kong, China
+852 2166 9000 Official Site
Chef of the century Joel Robuchon has the most Michelin stars than any chef in the world and shares a distinction to only a handful of chefs to have more than one three Michelin starred venues at the same time. He has built a culinary empire that stretches continents and his L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon has branches in major cities such as Paris, London, Tokyo and previously New York (closed in 2010) with all being awarded multiple Michelin stars. The Hong Kong location on the other hand is the only of the L’Ateliers to receive the maximum ranking from the Michelin guide as well as being rank in the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. After missing out in Paris last year and not able to visit the New York City location before it closed, I made sure to try this one when I visited Hong Kong this year.
Like many of Hong Kong’s top restaurants, which are housed inside the malls or hotels, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon is situated on the fourth floor of The Landmark, one of the city’s most luxurious malls. As I emerged from the escalator to the restaurant a beautiful hostess welcomed my arrival. She then led me through a walkway with walls of wine racks enclosed in glass and into the hushed dining room. Dominating the room is a counter with three even sides surrounding the open kitchen. A glossy, dark cherry wood counter top with deep red high chairs, polished black flooring and dimmed lighting gave the interior certain sexiness. Behind the counter I was treated by French born Chef de cuisine David Alves cooking, a veteran of the L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon chain. Prior to settling in Hong Kong he was at the Etoile branch in Paris.
Foregoing my normal practice of always requesting for the tasting menu, on this evening I had the a la carte as per server recommendation. There are more interesting items in the a la carte which has a price range of around 290 HKD per plate, pretty pricey but so is everything else in Hong Kong when it come to this types of restaurant. So to start, was the heralded bread basket with multiple kinds of freshly baked bread. There was a lot of effort put for just the bread but it’s also a good sign that this will be a beautiful evening. For canapé I was served a fried quinoa ball with a small cup of parmigian cheese foam and foie-gras. It was followed by the L’OURSIN-Sea urchin in a lobster jelly, topped with cauliflower cream. Served in cold temperature, it had an essence of the deep sea. This dish had different layers of contrasting flavors that worked accordingly together while the chilled gelatin texture was soothing to the tongue. The LA LANGOUSTINE – Crispy langoustine papillote with basil was next. Covered in a thin crispy batter, the langoustine was complemented beautifully with a bright peppery sauce made from basil.
Continuing the meal was the LE FOIE GRAS Pan-fried duck foie gras with mango, coriander and crispy peanut chips. The foie-gras outer layer had an excellent fried crust with sprinkled peanut chips on top, for extra texture. On the other hand, the mango purée on the plate seemed out of place but it was added appropriately to give a fruity component that went well with the buttery foie-gras. I was then served the LA SAINT-JACQUES – Hokkaido scallop with green curry and coriandre sauce, squid ink farfalle. A large piece of scallop with dense flavors and topped with squid ink pasta for a facet of saltiness. The sauce gives the scallop a lovely piquancy. The following dish was LE RIZ – Risotto style rice with pimientos and vegetable couscous. A dish with a saturated yellow color was a different type of risotto that is savory and pleasing. It had an even creaminess while the garnish of vegetables exuded a beautiful aroma.
LE BLACK – Black cod with Malabar black pepper sauce, Chinese cabbage and coconut emulsion, was a delicate piece of cod with a terrific balance of both sweet and spicy. The coconut emulsion was brilliantly added to provide an extra dimension to the dish. LE BŒUF Braised Wagyu beef cheek with miso, seasonal baby vegetables was served as the main course. This was a sumptuous braised beef cheek covered in thick sauce packed of flavor. As a supplement to this delicious dish was the famous Robuchon mashed potato served in a small pot. The mashed potato was a fine smooth texture with refined taste. I regretfully decided to skip dessert but the magrindanaise were good enough for a sweet finish.
In the beginning of the meal my server informed me that he would arrange the order of dishes in a way that it would not complicate my palate. At the end, each plate was timed perfectly in between and the succession of taste was in harmony one after the other. The cooking was skillful, especially when incorporating Asian ingredients to provide extra depth of flavors and aromas. There was a lot of emphasis on the sauces to compliment the ingredients on the plate and not to overpower them.
The restaurants award winning wine list is vast and can be overwhelming. Letting the sommelier choose the appropriate wines will be a wise thing to do. For white I was recommended the Château Musar, Lebanon 1999 for HKD 190 ($24), it was paired properly with the fish and seafood dishes. And for the wagyu cheeks and foie gras I had a glass of red Cabernet Sauvignon, Janzen Estate, Napa Valley, U.S.A 2006 for HKD 235 ($30). Wine mark up in Hong Kong is over the top but it was worth it for this meal.
The atmosphere at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon was relaxed and interactive, which the restaurant encourages between the staff and guests. Service was formal yet approachable. The staff was knowledgeable and had a genuine sense that they wanted the guest to not only enjoy the food but also the service that they provided. For those that prefer the traditional sit down dining there is the Le Jardin on the same premise, located towards the back. It offers the same menu as the L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon but with a more formal setting.
Chef Robuchon sets a standard that is met and maintained by all of his restaurants. With the L’Atelier, each location has identical offerings and atmosphere. When the Michelin guide awarded this restaurant its third star in 2011 (making it the only of the L’Ateliers with such honor) while the rest only have one or two it was surrounded with controversy. Even the two original posts in Tokyo and Paris only managed to secure two stars and many have stated that they were superior to this. Although this was my first visit at any of the L’Atelier or any of Chef Robuchon restaurants I believe that no two restaurants are alike. They might have similarities but there is always something different about them. But as far as my visit goes at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Hong Kong, I was impressed with the cooking and the impeccable service as well as having a superb dining experience.
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