Category: Relais & Chateaux

Addison ***

Addison
at The Fairmont Grand Del Mar
5300 Grand Del Mar Ct,
San Diego, CA 92130
(858) 314-1900
Official Site

As the state of California’s second largest city and the ninth most populous in the US with 1.3 million residents, San Diego is known for the world famous San Diego Zoo, Comic Con and its pleasant weather all year round. However it hardly comes up as a food destination even though the city boasts plenty of excellent places to eat. It wasn’t until the Michelin guide star wide expansion in 2019 put the city of San Diego on notice. 2022 was the year San Diego was officially recognized in the global culinary map when the Michelin guide awarded Addison three Michelin stars making it the very first in Southern California.

Addison has been awarded all the accolades that a restaurant can receive. It holds the Forbes Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond, and is an esteemed member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant group. The restaurant has consistently ranked among the best, not only in the state but also in the country. In the Michelin Guide’s inaugural statewide edition in 2019, Addison was awarded one Michelin star (some argued it should have received at least two). The second star came a year later, and finally, in 2022, the ultimate third star was just the icing on the cake.

The restaurant is situated within the luxurious Fairmont Grand Del Mar resort, housed in its own distinct edifice. Guests are welcomed by a waiting room with  a cozy fireplace, which leads into a spacious bar area. The Addison dining room boasts large windows that offer views of the surrounding area. The dining room itself is expansive, with high ceilings and generously spaced oversize tables. Although the decor is a bit outdated, it still exudes charm and luxury.

Only open for dinner, Addison offers a single tasting menu priced at $355 at the time of my visit (excluding tax and gratuity). A small glass of warm guava hibiscus and apple drink filled with fruity aromatics prepared my palate for what was to come. This was immediately followed by an array of small bites served all at once. The Sake Cured Kampachi Nigiri has a pleasing cured and spicy flavor, while the Kumamoto Oysters with pickled rose apples and champagne has a light and clean oceanic taste. The Mexican-inspired Chicken Liver Churro with bitter chocolate was a delectable contrast, and the Sage Hill Ranch Garden Greens was a true vegetal delight. Lastly the Iberian Ham with crispy potato and aged sherry was a nice savory bite. These starters were an amazing introduction to dinner.

Tasting Menu:

 The first course featured Kampachi Sashimi with Preserved Pears and Pinchuberry-Ponzu Kiwi. The delicate kampachi, boasting exceptional freshness, with bright flavors that harmonized beautifully with citrus notes. Next, Shellfish Chawanmushi with Broccoli, Bok Choy, and Purple Daikon provided a superb interplay of hot and cold temperatures. The custard’s sharp shellfish essence was complemented by the textured bitterness of chopped bok choy.

The Reglis Ova Reserve Caviar with Koshikari Rice, Smoked Sabayon, and Sesame presented a rice bowl of premium Japanese rice. The eggs imparted excellent creaminess to the rice, while the sabayon added a hint of smoke, and the caviar contributed a perfect touch of salinity. These combined elements created a  balanced dish. Next came Salt and Vinegar Chips with Toasted Dill and Burnt Onion Dip. The extra crunchy chips provided an ideal neutral base for the dip, which was richly flavorful, with a terrific burnt note enhancing its richness.

Continuing with Splendid Alfonsino, Flavors of Winter, Battered Kelp, and Clam Butter, a tender piece of fish with expertly fried scales rendered an extra crispy texture. The foamy clam butter sauce was delicious, with chive oil adding a zesty element to the fish. Bread is typically served at the beginning of a meal, but here it was presented as its own separate course. Sourdough Bread with Goat’s Milk and Browned Honey Butter arrived at my table with two types of butter. The freshly baked bread had a crackling lacquered crust. While goat’s milk butter isn’t usually my preference, the brown honey butter was incredibly good, and I couldn’t get enough of it.

Afterwards, the Tom Kha Guong Sweet and Sour Fowl, King Crab, and Swarnadwipa was served. This reinterpretation of the staple Thai soup by the restaurant offered robust flavors with a refined twist. The soup contains chunks of delectable king crab meat, accompanied by a side of crispy fried chicken nuggets that were equally delightful.

Squab Yakitori, Peanut Miso, Pak Choy, and Tokyo Turnips was the main course for the evening. Different parts of the squab were prepared skillfully. The leg was grilled to perfection and dusted with shiitake mushroom and coffee, adding a blend of earthy and bitter flavors. The other cuts of meat were succulent and flavorful. The peanut miso had a sweet and savory character that successfully paired with the squab. This was an exceptional main course.

“Creamsicles” was the palate clean ser, made from coconut cream, blood orange, tangerine, and orange sherbet chutney. This was quite refreshing, citrusy, and had a hint of spiciness.

The Sweet Treats consisted of two parts presented simultaneously. One was a large dessert plate of Praline Crunch, Mezcal, Passion Fruit, and Toasted Fluffi, which had a sweet and salty aspect to it. The passion fruit and mezcal sauce provided a pleasant acidity and fruitiness. The other part was a parade of small treats: Yuzu Custard Ceremonial Matcha (foamy, grainy, and limely), Berry-Beet Tartelette with Verjus and Vanilla (not as sweet as it looked but rather had a earthy and fruity notes), Bitter Chocolate Wafer with Pistachio and Sour Cherry Jam (was a chocolatey goodness), and Wildflower Honey Combs (with delicate sweetness). These were a fitting end to a great meal.

This was an outstanding dinner that showcased California’s agricultural bounty and cultural diversity. Diners are taken on a global journey with influences from many different cuisines, all touched with a distinct “Californian” flair. There were plenty of familiar flavors and dishes that were refined and elevated. Chef Bradley’s brilliance and his repertoire were on display this evening. The sommelier, at my request, paired the first half of the meal with a 2020 Sauvignon Baron Widdman from Northern Italy, while the latter part was paired with a 2019 Frederic Magnien ‘Clos Sorbé’ Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru red wine from Burgundy.

Sweet Treats:

Addison’s service exemplifies Southern California’s laid-back attitude while also maintaining a sense of professionalism. The staff were authentic, personable, and warm, making you feel right at home. They were extremely knowledgeable and well-versed on every detail on the plate. Chef Bradley visited every table in the dining room and chatted briefly with guests during this visit. He was also there to greet guests on a kitchen tour at the end of the meal.

A visit to Addison is an expensive undertaking and, for many, a special occasion or once-in-a-lifetime experience. However, when given a chance to dine here, this is a great restaurant that delivers perfectly executed dishes matched with unparalleled service from an energetic staff.

San Diego has long been an underrated food city. However, as more establishments earn Michelin stars and international accolades, it is steadily transforming into a gastronomic hotbed, with Addison leading the way. Few major cities around the world can boast a restaurant that is both synonymous with the city and a must-visit destination. San Diego has that in Addison. Traveling gastronomes have been making the special journey to dine there, and rightly so—Addison is truly one of the finest dining establishments in the world.

Sant Pau ***

Sant Pau
Carrer Nou, 10, 08395
Sant Pol de Mar, Spain
+34 937 60 06 62

Nestled between Barcelona and Girona, in the North Eastern part of Spain, is the charming seaside town of San Pol De Mar. The town is home to Catalan born chef, Carme Ruscalleda, and her three Michelin Starred Restaurant Sant Pau. Chef Ruscalleda is a culinary superstar who has authored several books and won numerous awards. Her total of seven Michelin stars is second only to Martin Berasategui (with ten) in the nation, while sharing the title with Ann Sophie Pic as the most starred female chef.

Chef Ruscalleda opened Restaurant Sant Pau in 1988 with her husband Tony Balam, and it was awarded a Michelin star in 1991. The second star came in 1996, then eventually the third star in 2008 in which they had continuously maintained up to this day. In addition to San Pau, Chef Ruscalleda also operates a pair of two Michelin starred restaurant, San Pau in Tokyo, and Moments in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Barcelona.

It takes an hour by train to get to Sant Pau from Barcelona.  The journey itself is beautiful and scenic as the train runs along the coast. The tracks are a few feet away from the sea, and you can literally watch the waves crashing to the rocks from your seat. From San Pol de Mar train station, the restaurant is meters away situated on a small street and easy to find especially with its colorful façade. Sant Pau’s  interior is modest compare to the other three Michelin starred places. The main dining room has an abundance of natural light with walls in rusted yellow. There are well-spaced round tables covered in thick cloth with classic wooden chairs, and they are arranged for the guest to look out to the Mediterranean Sea.  Separated by French doors, is another room which is dimly lit with colors of dark red dominating the space.

Sant Pau offers a tasting menu for both lunch and dinner priced at 189 EUR, while also having an a la carte selection. On this visit, I had the tasting menu. To start, the MEMORIES OF A SHOP– cod croquette, spicy green pepper ganxet, black and “del perol” botifarra, bread with tomato salty cheese cake, olives and herbs were small snacks served all at once. They were terrific intro to this meal, but the cheese cake and its savory aspect was particularly delightful. 

The first course, was the Japanese Style Cured Dentex – beetroot and vegetables. It had a distinct beets sauce that went extremely well with the cured fish. The garnish of fresh diced mix vegetables provided texture that it needed. The ANIMAL, OR PLANT – anemone ravioli, basil, pistachios was interesting. A ravioli made from sea anemone (a type of animal related to jelly fish and corals) features a clean oceanic taste.

 TERROIR FLAVORS- dewlap, beans, xiulet, romesco sauce was a medley of green beans on top of salty romesco sauce. To cut down the sauce saltiness and balance the dish, fat from the pork neck was brilliantly used. Next was the KING PRAWN TWIST-tomato and strawberry velvet which consisted of meaty large prawns that were drenched in floral and vegetal essence lingering sweetness. That was followed by JAPANESE WAGYU-bread, labneh of fine herbs; cubes of flavorful wagyu beef cooked medium rare set on top of crispy cracker covered with shaved parmesan. The pickled cucumber and the fermented yogurt had different types of pleasant sourness that mingled with other ingredients without overpowering them.

The meal continued with the GAMBA TAILS- with saffron, celeriac and green peas. This consists of nicely cooked shrimp tails, accompanied by creamy celeriac, and infused with a wonderful sharp shrimp taste and aroma. MONKFISH LOIN-curry, chutney, asparagus and morels was a piece of tender monk fish covered in leafy vegetables and asparagus. The pair of curry and chutney dots on the plate added an extra flavor to the monkfish while the morels gave it a touch of nuttiness.

For the main course, the CHILDHOOD MEMORIES-Girona veal with fairy ring mushrooms was a scrumptious veal coated in thick lightly sweetened sauce, topped with vegetable gelatin, and almond crisp. The mushroom supplied a beautiful earthy element to the veal.

HOJICHA TEA-yuzu sorbet was the palate cleanser. The tea was served cold and had subtle citric acidity that was quite refreshing. It successfully removed any savory remnant left in the palate.  The sweet courses began with the HONEY AND CUSTARD CHEESE-new concept jellatine honey sweet cheese, which was a cube of cheese custard enclosed in translucent gelatin honey. This had terrific layers of honey and creamy sweetness. The EL MARESME-roses and strawberries had an apparent sugary rose presence that was enticing. Finally, the main dessert, MISSIVE TO THE CLIENT-sakura, ginger, passion fruit had a mild sweetness combined with some bitterness, spiciness, and tartness. The mixture created an enjoyable dessert dish.

I was offered a choice to conclude at my table or at the court yard. Since this was a nice sunny day, I chose the latter. I was then given a tour of the kitchen before being led to my table outdoor where I was served the A CHOCOLATE PIG-lime and lemon amber, Jamaican pepper meringue, Amarula macaroon,raspberry marshmallow, coffee nougat  sea water bonbon.  In order to get to all the sweet stuff, the pig had to be broken with a reflex hammer. This was a playful way to end to this meal.

The tasting menu titled “30 Years of Santpolean Gastronomy” (a reflection Sant Pau’s three decades of history) was an impressive performance overall. It showed a high degree of cooking skills, and the ingredients used in every plate was superb. The modern Catalan cuisine that they served was light and compose of different flavors that were beautifully arrange. Their sauces not only worked as a complement but also added depth of flavors. The wine pairing for 59 EUR is considered a bargain, which featured wines from Catalonia, and consisted of ten glasses that were selected by the sommelier to enhance the taste in each course.

Wine Pairing:

San Pau staff were particularly attentive, accommodating and well informed. They explained each course in the tasting menu clearly and in detail. Mr. Balam had a welcoming attitude that was mirrored by the staff. He is the first to greet the guest as they arrive and his presence in the dining was significant. He took his time stopping by every table to chat with the guest more than once during the course of the meal.

With a tasting menu price at 189 EUR, Sant Pau is one the very few affordable three Michelin starred restaurant out there. But that price point did not diminish the quality of food it offers, and the dining experience it provided.

After my visit, news broke that Sant Pau will close in October 27th joining the like of Joel Robuchon in Singapore, Germany’s La Vie and Chihana (due to fire) in Kyoto as the other three Michelin starred establishments to cease operation this year. Chef Ruscalleda decided to focus on other projects, the restaurant will eventually morph in to a wine bar and will be run by her daughter. The impending closure is a great loss for the nations that prides itself for having world renowned restaurants. During its thirty years of existence, Sant Pau has gradually turned into one of the best in Spain, and made Chef Carme Ruscalleda a household name.

 

 

The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion

The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion
15 Elm St.
Mystic, CT 06355
(860) 245-4621
Website

Mystic, Connecticut is a charming small town in New England within driving distance from New York City. To be exact, the travel time is less than three hours. It makes an ideal weekend escape away from the hustles and bustle of New York City. This town is known for its seaport, the aquarium, and Mystic Pizza; a pizzeria popularized by a 1988 movie starring Julia Roberts. It also has a developing dining scene that was notice by the Boston Globe. The newspaper published an article last September on the growing restaurant community in Mystic and how it is slowly becoming a foodie town.

The Historic Downtown is where most of the restaurant are concentrated. The one that peaked my interest was The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion, located up the hill on a residential street, and a seven minute walk from the main drag. Spicer Mansion is a luxurious eight room hotel, and a Relais & Chateuax member property. The restaurant is the only one in Connecticut to received four stars from Forbes travel guide.

Built in 1853 as a summer home by renowned ship captain Elihu Spicer, the mansion had sadly fallen to despair until the Gates family purchased the property in 2003. It underwent an extensive renovation. Some of its old motif was kept while also giving the interior a fresh new look. All eight rooms were modernized, a dining room was added, the basement was turned in to a speakeasy bar called Room 9 Speakeasy, and the top floor was converted to a lounge.

The dining room is bright and refreshing. The interior is welcoming with colors of  white and light grey pattern against the dark wooden fixtures for  contrast. Rectangular tables covered in crispy white cloth on top of burlap sack are paired with comfortable benches. The walls are decorated with framed oil paintings, and an oversized Persian rug covers most of the wood flooring.

A set menu and a six course tasting menu priced at $130 are the dining options. On my visit, I had the tasting menu that began with a terrific amuse bouche of Wagyu tartare with truffle aioli. This bite-size snack was great way to make an impression.

The first course was the Pan Seared Bombster Scalllop-preserved cucumber, pickled mustard seeds, sunflower seeds.  The top layer of the scallop was seared a bit too much, and was almost burned. What a pity, since I like the thought and the taste of the scallop and its deep sea sweetness with the different sour and pickled notes on the plate. The next course was the Pan Seared Foie Gras – quince, brioche crouton, honey comb, which overall, could have been better. The foie gras was over cooked and dry. A would-have-been great combination of richness from the foie gras, the honey comb sweetness and the quince citric zing if executed properly.

The first two dishes were a let-down so far but all was not lost. My meal was redeemed by the remaining courses starting with the Squash & Wild Mushroom Risotto-grana padano, shaved squash, autumn leaf smoked walnuts.  The creamy risotto had a nice sweetness to it. The mushroom imparted an enticing earthiness while the walnuts added crunch to the texture; all the while, also rendering a touch of nuttiness with a smoky element. This was the best dish of the tasting.

For the main course I was served the Roasted Venison-Blueberry Compote, sweet potato hash, baby fennel pistachio. The plating could have used a little refinement, but as far as the dish itself, it was excellent. Lean venison was sous vide then roasted, creating a wonderful tenderness and flavor. In addition, there was also some delightful ground venison meat mingling with other ingredients. Giving the dish a nice touch of sweet berry tartness were drops of blueberry compote.

The cheese course Grand Formage-dried fruits, house mustard, pickles and bread. I trusted the recommendation of my server who chose two different types of cheese locally sourced from New England which surprisingly were very good.

Prior to dessert, I was presented with a cup of hot apple cider from Mystic’s very own Clyde’s Apple Cider Mill.It was fitting for the cold evening.  Dessert was the Butternut Squash Ice Cream-gingersnap, brown butter, roasted pears, maple. The ice cream distinctively tasted like a butternut squash, and the roasted pear was a pleasant fruity cohort. Serving as sweetener were dehydrated caramel and crumbs of ginger snap cookies which is also being used for textures. This well-rounded dessert dish has a cold fruity, and sugary features that works together. For the finale a gelatin with a subtle sweetness was served.

The disappointment was hard to hide since I really wanted to like this meal as a whole. The food had an interesting concept and different flavor elements that complements one another. But it simply lacks the execution which is such a shame, since the kitchen is capable in doing so, shown with the risotto, venison and the dessert. The presentation also needed a little bit of refinement. On the other hand, the $95 wine pairing consisting of six glasses did its job.

I find the staff at Spicer Mansion to be genuinely welcoming and eager to please. The same can be said to those who work in the restaurant. The dining room has trained servers that are well informed and their undivided attention is focus on the diner. Service is a definite strong point of this property.

When Spicer Mansion opened, OHM Hotel Management Inc. managed the operation and assigned one of their own in the kitchen. The cooking at the restaurant was received with positive review. Media outlets like the luxury lifestyle magazine Robb Report, did a write up calling The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion as the answer to French Laundry in the east coast. However,  when the owner ended the contract with the management company,there has been multiple chef changes, which more than likely led to the inconsistency of the kitchen.

Wine Pairing:

During my stay at the Spicer Mansion, I saw the owner Brian Gates quite a few times lingering in the property. At dinner he came by my table while I was in between courses and chatted a bit. He mentioned why he purchased the mansion, his future plans and why he decided to take over the day-to-day operation. I realized that he is a hands on owner who wants to truly provide a complete experience for every guest.  As much as I was disappointed with my dinner, I see the potential of the restaurant.  If I am ever around the area, I would certainly visit The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion again.