Travel – Rays Picks NYC

Shibumi *

Shibumi
815 S. Hill St.
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(323) 484-8915
Official Site

One Michelin-starred Shibumi, located in Downtown Los Angeles (DTLA), is a Japanese restaurant specializing in kappo-style cuisine. Its chef and owner, David Schlosser, has a strong Michelin pedigree, having honed his skills at three-Michelin-starred restaurants such as Georges Blanc in Vonnas, L’Arpège in Paris, and Kikunoi Honten and Arashiyama in Kyoto, Japan. In the U.S., he has worked at Masa Takayama’s Ginza Sushi-ko and Urasawa in Beverly Hills. Chef Schlosser opened Shibumi in 2016, and received a Michelin star in 2019, which it has maintained ever since.

Shibumi’s facade is highly distinguishable and hard to miss along S Hill Street. The restaurant features a spacious, softly lit dining room that can accommodate up to forty guests. Its modestly designed space includes sparsely spaced dark wooden two-top tables and a long L-shaped counter with a 400-year-old wood top.

The restaurant offers a multi-course option priced at $125, available only in the evening. Dinner begins with “Hassun,” a collection of small dishes served with sake. These include “Chiayu,” young sweetfish tsukandani, a small fish cut in half that is sweet and salty. The cucumber stuffed with salted plum, smoked bonito, and sesame is crunchy and highlighted with wonderful salinity. The fresh yuba with shrimp, dashi joyu, and shiso flowers is rich with a pleasant subtlety, while the Mozuku shot with green grapes combines a profound seaweed taste with the sweet, alcoholic fruitiness of the grapes.

Sashimi of the moment featured thinly sliced flounder, offering a delicate taste that lingered on the palate. It was dusted with dried mullet roe, adding a subtle crunch, and accompanied by an intriguing nori jelly. A slimy-textured potato yam and a salty flounder belly cut sashimi rounded out this dish with contrasting textures and flavors.

Next, the Chilled somen noodles, pearl tomato, japanese parsley, summer vegetables arrived. The dish was refreshing, with a pleasant acidity provided by the tomatoes, balancing the lightness of the noodles. The Tempura of black cod, warm dashi, grated radish followed after. Bathed in a warm, umami-rich dashi broth, the cod was perfectly fried, with a wonderfully crisp crust that soaked up the dashi, creating a delightful harmony of flavors. The grated radish added a hint of bitter spiciness that enhanced the dish.

Sakura masu – smoked, grilled Japanese cherry trout served as the main course and was cooked elegantly. The skin had a charred texture, while the fish itself carried a pleasant smokiness. A side of pickled daikon provided a sweet and sour contrast that complemented the trout beautifully.

The rice dish featured Iron pot rice from iwate – ginga no shizuku variety, house miso in smoked dashi broth, tororo shaved konbu, shitake, salted shirashu white bait boiled in seawater. Mixing the rice with the other components resulted in a comforting, flavorful dish. The deep-fried shirashu added a crispy texture and a burst of salty flavor, while the pickled vegetables contributed an extra layer of tangy sourness. The miso soup had a refined earthiness, rounding out the meal.

Before dessert, I was offered supplemental small dishes. I chose the 3-month-cured uni, which was pungent with a cheese-like consistency, and the Okinawan red koji tofu, which delivered a strong, biting salinity that was both intriguing and intense.

For the sweet course, the Koji custard with yatsuhashi cinnamon crackers was served cold, offering a refreshing touch to the palate with just the right amount of sweetness. The final dish, Poached loquat in elderflower gelée, was a gelatin-like dessert with a delightful sweet fruitiness.

Dinner was enjoyable, with food that was uncomplicated yet evocative of traditional Japanese flavors that were clean and subtle. Each plate was composed with detailed precision, showcasing quality ingredients at their peak. Shibumi offers a well-rounded selection of sake and shochu, along with an extensive array of Japanese whisky to complement the meal.

The service is informal, with a laid-back approach that creates a relaxed atmosphere. The staff is personable, including the chefs behind the counter, making the dining experience fun and convivial. Sitting at the counter is preferred for engaging with the staff and enhancing the overall experience.

Considering the price tag, dinner at Shibumi offers great value and is more approachable for many, especially in an expensive city like Los Angeles. The restaurant provides guests with uncomplicated traditional food in a fun and un-stuffy setting, solidifying its place as a noteworthy restaurant in Los Angeles.

Addison ***

Addison
at The Fairmont Grand Del Mar
5300 Grand Del Mar Ct,
San Diego, CA 92130
(858) 314-1900
Official Site

As the state of California’s second largest city and the ninth most populous in the US with 1.3 million residents, San Diego is known for the world famous San Diego Zoo, Comic Con and its pleasant weather all year round. However it hardly comes up as a food destination even though the city boasts plenty of excellent places to eat. It wasn’t until the Michelin guide star wide expansion in 2019 put the city of San Diego on notice. 2022 was the year San Diego was officially recognized in the global culinary map when the Michelin guide awarded Addison three Michelin stars making it the very first in Southern California.

Addison has been awarded all the accolades that a restaurant can receive. It holds the Forbes Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond, and is an esteemed member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant group. The restaurant has consistently ranked among the best, not only in the state but also in the country. In the Michelin Guide’s inaugural statewide edition in 2019, Addison was awarded one Michelin star (some argued it should have received at least two). The second star came a year later, and finally, in 2022, the ultimate third star was just the icing on the cake.

The restaurant is situated within the luxurious Fairmont Grand Del Mar resort, housed in its own distinct edifice. Guests are welcomed by a waiting room with a cozy fireplace, which leads into a spacious bar area. The Addison dining room boasts large windows that offer views of the surrounding area. The dining room itself is expansive, with high ceilings and generously spaced oversize tables. Although the decor is a bit outdated, it still exudes charm and luxury.

Only open for dinner, Addison offers a single tasting menu priced at $355 at the time of my visit (excluding tax and gratuity). A small glass of warm guava hibiscus and apple drink filled with fruity aromatics prepared my palate for what was to come. This was immediately followed by an array of small bites served all at once. The Sake Cured Kampachi Nigiri has a pleasing cured and spicy flavor, while the Kumamoto Oysters with pickled rose apples and champagne has a light and clean oceanic taste. The Mexican-inspired Chicken Liver Churro with bitter chocolate was a delectable contrast, and the Sage Hill Ranch Garden Greens was a true vegetal delight. Lastly the Iberian Ham with crispy potato and aged sherry was a nice savory bite. These starters were an amazing introduction to dinner.

Tasting Menu:

The first course featured Kampachi Sashimi with Preserved Pears and Pinchuberry-Ponzu Kiwi. The delicate kampachi, boasting exceptional freshness, with bright flavors that harmonized beautifully with citrus notes. Next, Shellfish Chawanmushi with Broccoli, Bok Choy, and Purple Daikon provided a superb interplay of hot and cold temperatures. The custard’s sharp shellfish essence was complemented by the textured bitterness of chopped bok choy.

The Reglis Ova Reserve Caviar with Koshikari Rice, Smoked Sabayon, and Sesame presented a rice bowl of premium Japanese rice. The eggs imparted excellent creaminess to the rice, while the sabayon added a hint of smoke, and the caviar contributed a perfect touch of salinity. These combined elements created a balanced dish. Next came Salt and Vinegar Chips with Toasted Dill and Burnt Onion Dip. The extra crunchy chips provided an ideal neutral base for the dip, which was richly flavorful, with a terrific burnt note enhancing its richness.

Continuing with Splendid Alfonsino, Flavors of Winter, Battered Kelp, and Clam Butter, a tender piece of fish with expertly fried scales rendered an extra crispy texture. The foamy clam butter sauce was delicious, with chive oil adding a zesty element to the fish. Bread is typically served at the beginning of a meal, but here it was presented as its own separate course. Sourdough Bread with Goat’s Milk and Browned Honey Butter arrived at my table with two types of butter. The freshly baked bread had a crackling lacquered crust. While goat’s milk butter isn’t usually my preference, the brown honey butter was incredibly good, and I couldn’t get enough of it.

Afterwards, the Tom Kha Guong Sweet and Sour Fowl, King Crab, and Swarnadwipa was served. This reinterpretation of the staple Thai soup by the restaurant offered robust flavors with a refined twist. The soup contains chunks of delectable king crab meat, accompanied by a side of crispy fried chicken nuggets that were equally delightful.

Squab Yakitori, Peanut Miso, Pak Choy, and Tokyo Turnips was the main course for the evening. Different parts of the squab were prepared skillfully. The leg was grilled to perfection and dusted with shiitake mushroom and coffee, adding a blend of earthy and bitter flavors. The other cuts of meat were succulent and flavorful. The peanut miso had a sweet and savory character that successfully paired with the squab. This was an exceptional main course.

“Creamsicles” was the palate clean ser, made from coconut cream, blood orange, tangerine, and orange sherbet chutney. This was quite refreshing, citrusy, and had a hint of spiciness.

The Sweet Treats consisted of two parts presented simultaneously. One was a large dessert plate of Praline Crunch, Mezcal, Passion Fruit, and Toasted Fluffi, which had a sweet and salty aspect to it. The passion fruit and mezcal sauce provided a pleasant acidity and fruitiness. The other part was a parade of small treats: Yuzu Custard Ceremonial Matcha (foamy, grainy, and limely), Berry-Beet Tartelette with Verjus and Vanilla (not as sweet as it looked but rather had a earthy and fruity notes), Bitter Chocolate Wafer with Pistachio and Sour Cherry Jam (was a chocolatey goodness), and Wildflower Honey Combs (with delicate sweetness). These were a fitting end to a great meal.

This was an outstanding dinner that showcased California’s agricultural bounty and cultural diversity. Diners are taken on a global journey with influences from many different cuisines, all touched with a distinct “Californian” flair. There were plenty of familiar flavors and dishes that were refined and elevated. Chef Bradley’s brilliance and his repertoire were on display this evening. The sommelier, at my request, paired the first half of the meal with a 2020 Sauvignon Baron Widdman from Northern Italy, while the latter part was paired with a 2019 Frederic Magnien ‘Clos Sorbé’ Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru red wine from Burgundy.

Sweet Treats:

Addison’s service exemplifies Southern California’s laid-back attitude while also maintaining a sense of professionalism. The staff were authentic, personable, and warm, making you feel right at home. They were extremely knowledgeable and well-versed on every detail on the plate. Chef Bradley visited every table in the dining room and chatted briefly with guests during this visit. He was also there to greet guests on a kitchen tour at the end of the meal.

A visit to Addison is an expensive undertaking and, for many, a special occasion or once-in-a-lifetime experience. However, when given a chance to dine here, this is a great restaurant that delivers perfectly executed dishes matched with unparalleled service from an energetic staff.

San Diego has long been an underrated food city. However, as more establishments earn Michelin stars and international accolades, it is steadily transforming into a gastronomic hotbed, with Addison leading the way. Few major cities around the world can boast a restaurant that is both synonymous with the city and a must-visit destination. San Diego has that in Addison. Traveling gastronomes have been making the special journey to dine there, and rightly so—Addison is truly one of the finest dining establishments in the world.

L’OSIER ***

L’OSIER
7 Chome-5-5 Ginza, Chuo City,
Tokyo 104-0061, Japan
+81 120-156-051
Official Site

Japanese company Shiseido is among the largest cosmetic companies in the world, with its headquarters located in Tokyo. It also owns L’OSIER, one of the oldest and most esteemed French restaurants in the city. Established in 1973, the restaurant received immediate acclaim, being awarded three Michelin stars when the guide published its Tokyo edition in 2007. At that time, the kitchen was under the supervision of Chef Bruno Menard, who maintained this distinction for three consecutive years. However, following Chef Menard’s departure in 2009 to pursue other ventures and the restaurant’s subsequent closure for renovation, it reopened in 2013 with Olivier Chaignon as the new executive chef, resulting in the loss of a star. The restaurant maintained two stars until 2018, when Chef Chaignon returned it to its former glory in 2019 by reclaiming the third Michelin star.

A native of France, Chef Chaignon boasts an impressive resume, with previous stints at La Taillavent and the three Michelin-starred Pierre-Gagnaire in Paris. He came to Tokyo in 2005 to serve as the head chef of Pierre-Gagnaire au Tokyo, where he remained until 2013, during which time the restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars.

Situated in the upscale shopping district of Minato-ku, L’OSIER welcomes guests with a grand entrance. A doorman opens the large bronze door upon arrival, and a gracious hostess escorts guests down a spiral staircase to the dining room. Inside, the windowless dining room exudes tranquility with its serene lighting. Tables are adorned with neatly pressed thick white cloths, accompanied by leather-padded chairs and benches lining the walls. Additional seating is positioned in the center of the space directly below the elegant chandeliers. To dampen noise levels, the floors are carpeted with thick rugs featuring rose flower imprints.

L’OSIER offers different set menus for both lunch and dinner, as well as a “special menu”. During my visit, I selected the “Menu Degustation,” which commenced with the AMUSE-BOUCHE. This delightful assortment of bite-sized snacks was served on a clear glass plate alongside a cup of foamy potato soup. The soup boasted a refined potato flavor with hints of mushroom and citrus from the yuzu, making it perhaps the most sophisticated potato soup I’ve ever tasted.

Menu Degustation:

The first course featured OSSETRA CAVIAR AND HOKKAIDO KEGANI CRAB – Jerusalem artichoke ravioli, finger lime/oyster leaf, with the luxurious saltiness of the caviar complementing the wonderful taste of the crab. Additionally, the plate included three small artichoke mousses topped with jelly, providing a pleasant sourness. Following this was the DUCK FOIE GRAS – roasted, cream of trompette mushroom condiment, chestnut/ beetroot/ kumquat, green cardamon flovoured mushroom broth foam, a decadent dish combining sweet, citrus, and savory elements. The green cardamom mushroom foam added a unique flavor dimension to the dish. Next came the HATA FISH – coated with black truffle crust, cauliflower, shellfishes lettuce sobayon sauce, delicate and tender, with a crispy crust mimicking fish skin made from thin black truffle bread. The sobayon sauce, made from three types of Japanese shellfish, added deep sea flavors to the dish.

For the main course, HOKKAIDO VENISON – roasted with black pepper from Madagascar, acidulated red cabbage with black currant, green pasta stuffed with braised shoulder, carrot mouse, “Poivrade” sauce was served, roasted impeccably to retain its moisture and tenderness. Drenched in “Poiverde” sauce, the venison had a layer of peppery spice, perfectly complemented by a green pasta filled with braised venison shoulder and a carrot mousse with a sweet and earthy flavor.

The CHEESE SELECTION were mostly French cheeses, with a surprising addition of selections from Japan. Of particular note was the blue cheese from the Nagano prefecture, renowned for its distinct sharpness and creamy consistency. Following the cheese course, a refreshing Strawberry Sorbet was served as the palate cleanser. Its icy coldness and fruity sweetness were invigorating, albeit leaning towards the sweeter side. Alongside the sorbet were delectable bite-sized treats, with the strawberry meringue and banana chocolate standing out as particularly delightful.

For the main dessert, the “BABA” – sponge cake with tropical fruits, coconut sherbet was served. This was L’OSIER’s take on the classic French dessert known as rhum baba or rum cake, which had been refined and given a modernized twist. The cake featured plenty of fruity elements and a deep, rich rum flavor that harmonized with other components on the plate without overshadowing them. Following the dessert, the SWEET DELICACY TROLLEY arrived at my table, brimming with chocolatey delights and other sugary treats, providing a terrific conclusion to the meal.

This kitchen delivered a remarkable meal. Each plate was artfully arranged, vibrant, and bursting with colors. The food was light yet packed with a fantastic composition of flavors and textures. The culinary expertise demonstrated a high degree of technical skill, using ingredients of the finest quality, primarily sourced locally. Alongside this tasting experience, I indulged in the wine pairing, mainly consisted of European wines. The sommelier’s selections were spot-on, enhancing each bite with an additional layer of flavor.

The staff at L’Osier exuded an air of formality, dressed neatly in dark suits. While their service was extremely formal and sometimes bordering on robotic, they remained unobtrusive, speaking only when spoken to. The dining room manager took charge of explaining each course as it arrived at the table, maintaining a quiet and private atmosphere for diners to enjoy their meals in comfort.

Although dinner at L’OSIER cost less than $500 (at the time of my visit), it was still considered pricey. However, considering the inclusion of wine pairing and service charge, along with the favorable exchange rate of the USD, it represented excellent value for money. As a three-star establishment offering sublime haute cuisine, L’OSIER provided a remarkable dining experience at a relatively reasonable price point compared to similar establishments in the US and Europe.

Wine Pairing:

French culinary titans like Alain Ducasse, Pierre Gagnaire, and the late Joel Robuchon, along with numerous other Michelin-starred French chefs, have established outposts in Tokyo and throughout Japan. The French restaurants in this country are considered to rival those in France due to their uncompromising sourcing of quality ingredients and impeccable cooking culture. L’OSIER exemplifies this standard, standing as one of the finest French restaurants where anyone can dine, easily rivaling the great gastronomic venues in France.

Taian ***

Taian
1-21-2 Shimanouchi, Chuo-ku,
Osaka, 542-0082, Japan
+81 6-6120-0790

In Japan, there are plenty of small restaurants that are independently owned and operated by families. Some have been in the same family for multiple generations. Typically, the husband serves as the chef while the wife manages the front of the house. Osaka’s three Michelin-starred Taian operates in exactly this manner. Chef Hitoshi Takahata, along with his wife who oversees the dining room, owns Taian. Under their watch, the restaurant has held three Michelin stars since 2011. Prior to opening Taian, Chef Takahata spent fifteen years at Ajikitcho, a well-established kaiseki restaurant in Osaka.

Taian boasts a small, intimate space with a long wooden bar that seats about sixteen guests. The interior is simple, creating a relaxed atmosphere akin to dining at someone’s home. On the evening of my visit, I observed a mix of casually dressed Asian tourists in t-shirts and jeans along with locals.

The restaurant exclusively offers a kaiseki meal every evening, which begins with a series of small dishes served simultaneously. The radish soup offers a pleasantly surprising bitterness, while the yam potato noodles provide a nice sweet earthiness. The oysters boast a deep sea essence that pairs wonderfully with the bitterness of the radish, and the seaweed sauce introduces an oceanic vegetal element. What a terrific introduction to the meal.

Next, I enjoyed a white miso soup with tofu, radish mustard, and Japanese tara milt (a delicacy in Japan). The soup has a unique richness derived from the milt, while the tofu adds a bitter spiciness. This was followed by a sashimi course of thinly sliced blowfish and yellowtail, accompanied by white radish, red radish, pepper, and ponzu sauce. While the blowfish offered a subtle, almost flavorless taste, dipping it in ponzu sauce enhanced its flavor with a wonderful citric tang. In contrast, the delicate yellowtail was simply terrific.

I was then served Sanuki wagyu beef with salt and pepper, ponzu, honey miso, and chicken miso sauce. This rare breed of cows from Kagawa prefecture boasts a unique flavor derived from being mainly fed olive branches. The beef was grilled to perfection, juicy, and had the perfect pinkness to it. Dipping the beef in different sauces and salt and pepper provided a variety of flavors, although I preferred it as is due to its already rich flavor.

Following this, I enjoyed deep-fried yuba with crab, served piping hot. The fried yuba was extra crunchy and served as the perfect vessel for the tasty crab filling. Although visually simple, the dish was incredibly satisfying. This was followed by another soup dish of spinach and clams with katsu broth. The broth was extremely flavorful and complemented the strong oceanic taste of the clams. Topped off with blanched spinach and shaved ginger, the duo added another layer of bitterness and a gingery spice.

The final savory course was a rice dish made with fugu fish accompanied by a small cup of clear fish broth. The rice had a terrific fish taste, while the broth boasted a sharp seafood flavor.

For dessert, I was served a glass of Japanese fruits with brandy jelly and orange liqueur. This offered an interesting fruity flavor with a hint of zest, and the sweet alcoholic jelly helped bind all the elements together.

Taian’s kaiseki was wonderful, with flavors slightly bolder than other kaiseki meals I’ve had in Japan. The dishes were simple yet perfectly executed, featuring top-tier ingredients. Despite occasional repetition of certain ingredients in the kaiseki, Chef Takahata showcased remarkable skill in seamlessly integrating them with other components on the plate.The beverage pairing, which included a blend of sake, European, and Australian wines, elevated the dining experience, perfectly complementing each bite.

During my visit, Chef Takahata was behind the counter, personally preparing each plate and engaging with guests alongside his chefs. His wife warmly greeted guests upon their arrival, setting a welcoming tone for the evening. Together, they provided warm Japanese hospitality in a relaxed and homey atmosphere.

Beverage Pairing:

In contrast to the opulence often associated with three-Michelin-starred restaurants, Taian stands out with its modest decor and an approachable price point. However, there is no compromise on quality—the food and service are of three-star standards.

Despite extreme online reviews—either love or hate—my visit to Taian was a personal delight. Impressed by every aspect of my dinner, I found Taian to be a highly capable three-Michelin-starred restaurant, likely to surprise and captivate many visitors, as it did for me.

Sushi Harasho **

Sushi Harasho
3-30 Uenomiyacho, Tennoji-ku,
Osaka, 543-0037, Japan
+81 50-1807-8488
Official Site

In 2009, when the Michelin guide unveiled its inaugural edition for the Kansai region (Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara), Sushi Harasho swiftly earned two stars. Owner/chef Takumi Ishikawa has consistently upheld this prestigious accolade in consecutive years, including the guide’s latest edition. Presently, it stands as one of only two sushi restaurants in Osaka with two Michelin stars

Nestled in a tranquil residential section of Osaka, Sushi Harasho’s unassuming exterior seamlessly blends with the neighboring houses. Inside, the ambiance is serene, and the interior is modest, featuring a long and wide hanoki wooden counter top seating twelve guests at any given time, complemented by low wooden chairs that surprisingly offer comfort.

At Sushi Harasho, the only option available is the omakase. The experience commenced with the Octopus, prepared to perfection with firm yet easily chewable meat. The subsequent course featured Sea Cucumber with radish, though I found it a bit too rough for my taste buds. The chef seemed heavy-handed with the radish, resulting in an overly bitter flavor. Despite my efforts, I couldn’t bring myself to finish the dish.

Omakase:

The following courses included two varieties of sashimi. The Sea Bream had a clean and delicate taste, while the Mackerel, marinated in vinegar, was delectable, boasting a terrific crispy skin. This was succeeded by a delightful Crab dish, complemented by a delicious creamy crab roe.

Chawanmushi, a savory steamed egg custard served piping hot, was exceptional, featuring chopped pieces of meaty clams beneath the custard. Nodoguro, a type of sea perch, was grilled beautifully, with charred and crispy skin enveloping uberly tender meat. The next dish featured Fish Roe in three different types of sliced cured fish eggs, each offering a distinct pungency and salinity.

Transitioning to the nagiris after a succession of small plates, the experience began with a fine piece of Squid, boasting a silky, chewy texture brushed with soy sauce, imparting a note of salty sweetness. Sayori, or Halfbeak, had a nice mild and sweet flavor, coupled with a silky texture. Akami followed, presenting a less fatty cut of tuna that was equally delicious. The O-Toro, with its beautiful marbling, was a sight to behold, offering an extremely buttery, luscious, and flavorful experience.

Continuing the journey, the Shad aka Kohada featured a slight oiliness and richness, while Kinmedai exhibited delicacy with a good fat content. Expertly prepared Shrimp showcased a type of tenderness yet firmness in the meat, and the Yellow Tail followed with light richness and slight sweetness. Next, a beautiful piece of scrumptious Uni was served.

The subtle Miso Soup allowed the quality of tofu to shine through, and contrary to the customary Japanese meal practice where soup often signals the meal’s end, at Sushi Harasho, more delights awaited. Immediately following, a very tasty Eel sweetened wonderfully with sweet soy sauce was presented. A small bowl of fresh, crunchy Cabbage served as a palate cleanser, followed by the Kappamaki or cucumber sushi roll with red clam tendon, offering an interesting subtle sweetness and a hint of oceanic presence. The culmination of this omakase was the Futomaki with a delectable egg and vegetable filling.

The succession of small plates at the beginning of the omakase was delightful, and the nigiris were equally sublime. The sushi rice, more subtle than usual, lacked the sweet vinegary component often added, perfectly complementing the richness and fattiness of the fishes in this omakase. The seasonal and top-notch ingredients were extremely fresh, leaving a definitive taste.

A large bottle of Premium Yebisu Japanese beer and sake, recommended by the sommelier, paired seamlessly with each dish. As expected, there was no sweet ending to this omakase, in line with the common tradition among traditional sushiyas in Japan.

The service at Sushi Harasho was characterized by a laid-back and hospitable demeanor. The staff’s friendliness, coupled with occasional jokes and earnest attempts at conversation, made the experience all the more enjoyable. The chefs behind the counter communicated in English, aided by a picture book containing ingredient information for foreign guests facing language barriers.

Remarkably, Sushi Harasho manages to offer quality sushi at a more affordable price. Following my visit, I comprehended why it is highly recommended and considered among the finest sushiyas in Osaka. This establishment is nothing short of a fantastic restaurant and an absolute must for all sushi enthusiasts.

Kashiwaya ***

Kashiwaya
2-5-18 Senriyamanishi, Suita,
Osaka, 565-0851, Japan
+81 6-6386-2234
Official Site

As the third most populous city in Japan with over 2 million inhabitants, Osaka is widely known as the kitchen of Japan, a title bestowed upon the city during the Edo period. It boasts a diverse gastronomic landscape offering various cuisines at different price points. In fact, Osaka has the fourth highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants on Earth, surpassing other culinary centers such as Hong Kong, London, and New York. However, it is often overshadowed by Japan’s more famous cities like Tokyo and Kyoto. Among the notable establishments in Osaka is Kashiwaya, one of the city’s three Michelin-starred restaurants.

Kashiwaya has been a family-operated restaurant since 1977 and is currently under the ownership of Chef Hideaki Matsuo , the son of the original owner. Chef Matsuo assumed the role of master chef in 1993, and under his guidance, Kashiwaya garnered two stars in the first Michelin guide in 2009 for the Kansai region. The coveted third star followed a year later in 2010, a distinction it has proudly maintained ever since. Additionally, Kashiwaya holds the Michelin Green Star award and is a distinguished member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant group.

The restaurant is situated in the Suita district outside Osaka’s city center, and taking a taxi is the most convenient and recommended mode of transportation to reach it. Kashiwaya’s unassuming facade seamlessly blends with the other houses on the street, making it easy to overlook. Upon entering the gates, guests are greeted by a serene Japanese garden, setting a tranquil atmosphere. A gracious hostess, dressed in a traditional kimono, warmly welcomes me and guides me through a sliding door to my washitsu, or Japanese traditional room. I immediately feel a sense of privacy as I have the room all to myself. The room is furnished with a short table, a back-supporting cushion, and floors covered in thick tatami mats where I had to sit during the duration of this meal.

There are multiple kaiseki options offered at the restaurant, but on this visit, I opted for the “Ran” menu. Before starting the kaiseki, a delightful plum tea was presented, awakening the palate. This was immediately followed by the first course of Sakizuke – spot prawn, sea urchin,canola flower with butterbur paste, yam, carrot and radish, wasabi. This dish exuded a pleasant oceanic essence, with the prawns offering a beautiful sweetness. The spicy bitterness supplied by the radish and wasabi helped create a well-balanced dish.

“Ran”:

Kae – mackarel sushi rolled in turnip, salmon roe was the next. The raw turnip was crunchy, and its mild spiciness was perfect with the mackerel’s fatty features. Meanwhile, the side of salmon roe provided a wonderful saltiness to the dish, especially when eaten together. Then came the Nimonowa – Ise lobster, shiitake mushroom, turnip, jinbasou, syungiku, yuzu. This bowl of soup was infused with robust lobster flavors, accompanied by pleasant earthy notes. The lobster meat, mushrooms, and other vegetables wonderfully absorbed the flavor-packed broth.

On to the sashimi course of Otsukuri – Long tooth grouper, tuna, Miru clam, bofu, carrot and radish, red tade, wasabi, two soy sauces (mixed with kelp and sudachi juice). The sashimis were fresh and clean tasting. They were served with two kinds of soy sauce, each imparting a different type of saltiness to the sashimis, both of which were equally terrific. That was followed by the Kan – Matsuba crab, blowfish milt, mitsuba with Yoshino kazu starch soup in yuzu cup. Presented within a whole yuzu, this wonderful dish features a thick starchy texture combined with flavorful crab meat and the intriguing salty creaminess of the blowfish milt. Following instructions, I squeezed the yuzu cover, revealing another dimension to the dish.

Hassun – Egg yolk sushi (salmon, halfbeak, cucumber), abalone, karasumi and radish, black bean jelly, tara sprout, Shirae (soba see, white cloud mushroom, lotus root, ginkgo, pine nut mixed with tofu paste) – Udo, ricotta cheese, stem lettuce skewered on pine needle was served on two small plates. One plate featured egg yolk sushi wrapped in salmon, halfbeak, and cucumber, offering interesting blends of eggy sweetness, a touch of sourness, and the freshness of the fish. Additionally, thick pieces of superb abalone and sweet black bean jelly adorned this plate. The other plate held a tofu salad with very good earthy notes

The Yakimono – Tilefish grilled with misoyuan sauce, hataken with mustard was grilled elegantly. The fish was delicate, and the skin was extra crispy. Its sharp salinity was perfectly balanced by the bitterness of the mustard leaf. Next came the Hachi – Densuke conger eel, ebiimo (taro), spinach, tachibana pepper. The eel was prepared masterfully, so delicate it melted like cotton candy in the mouth, and it was extremely delicious. The dashi kombu broth produced an umami taste that elevated the eel to another level. Gohan Shiru – Steamed rice mixed with butterbur, Japanese pepper leaf, saikyo miso soup (shiokujira, radish, white leak, mustard) was the final savory course of this kaiseki. The steamed rice emitted beautiful vegetal aromas, and the miso soup, containing salted whale meat, was uniquely tasty.

Transitioning over to the sweet courses, I was served the Mizumono – Hassaku and strawberry, which featured Hassaku, a citrus from Japan, and Japanese strawberries. These fruits were truly exceptional, incredibly fresh and vibrant. To conclude the meal, I enjoyed the Kashi – Akebono kinton, which had a grainy texture with a subtle sweetness that I found enjoyable. It was accompanied by matcha tea that was creamier and different from what I’ve had before.

Kashiwaya’s seafood-centric kaiseki was excellent, showcasing cooking at the highest level and an unparalleled attention to detail. The cuisine was characterized by simplicity, yet it boasted beautiful flavors that were both light and subtle. Chef Matsuo meticulously sources the finest, in-season ingredients, allowing him to utilize them at their absolute peak.

Opting for the sommelier-recommended sake pairing with this kaiseki was indeed a wise choice. The selection comprised ten premium brands of sake from various regions of Japan. Each sake, with its distinct characteristics, impeccably enhanced the flavors of each course. The sommelier’s choices were spot on and added an extra layer of enjoyment to the dining experience.

The service was exceptional. The female servers, dressed in impeccably arranged kimonos, were highly respectful and communicated fluently in English, likely due to the significant number of foreign diners visiting. They were unobtrusive, displaying a keen sense of privacy by knowing precisely when to clear empty plates or refill glasses of water, appearing inside the room seamlessly. At the end of the meal, Chef Matsuo graciously made an appearance to express gratitude for my visit and ensure my safe departure in a taxi. Japanese hospitality was truly on display that evening.

Sake Pairing:

There are multiple kaiseki options offered at different price points at Kashiwaya, making it accessible to many. While those with deeper pockets can indulge in an option that showcases more premium ingredients at a higher price point, the “Ran” option that I had was more than enough to experience how wonderful this restaurant is at a fair price.

In Osaka, where there is an abundance of dining choices, Kashiwaya stands out as the restaurant to visit for traditional kaiseki dining at the highest level. This three Michelin-starred establishment delivers an impeccable dining experience.

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana ***

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana
At Landmark Alexandra
Shop 202, 18 Chater Rd, Central
Hong Kong, China
+852 2537 8859
Website

Out of 120 plus restaurants to be awarded with three Michelin stars, there are only a handful of Italian restaurants with this distinction worldwide, and almost all of them are in Italy. The very first restaurant of its kind to be awarded with three stars outside of the Italian peninsula was 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bomban in Hong Kong. Owned and operated by Italian born chef Umberto Bombana, famously known as the “King of White Truffles” as he was the one responsible for introducing Hong Kong to this luxurious fungi.

Chef Bombana worked at Antica Osteria del Ponte with chef Enzio Santin before moving to the US, and then to Hong Kong where he was at the helm of the kitchen at Toscana in The Ritz Carlton. When that restaurant closed in 2008 he opened 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana two years later. Named after the chef’s favorite Italian movie directed by Federico Fellini, it debuted in the 2011 Michelin guide and was awarded two stars right off the bat, followed by the third star a year later which it has maintained ever since. Ascension to the top of the echelon was rapid and capitalizing in its success, Chef Bombana opened two other branches in Shanghai and Macau, which respectably has two and one Michelin stars. He also has the Michelin starred Octavium in Hong Kong and Opera Bombana in Beijing.

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana is housed inside the Alexandra House, a mixed used office and retail building in Central, Hong Kong. Guests are treated by a world renowned bar as soon as they enter. The bar itself has garnered numerous praises within the industry and has been included in Asia’s 50 Best Bars. The dining room had oversized tables covered in thick white tablecloths, paired with leather padded wooden chairs and semi circular swayed banquet seating. Its low ceiling is designed with abstract mirrors, and the glass windows have the view of Central’s skyscrapers.

The dining options offer a la carte, lunch set menu, and a degustation menu available for both lunch and dinner. The choice for this visit was the degustation menu. Dinner began with freshly baked bread, crispy crackers and bread sticks served with butter on the side. This was immediately followed by an appetizer; a bowl of chanterelle mushrooms drenched in cream of mushroom sauce, and blanketed with generous shaving of white truffles. This was a fantastic way to start the meal.

For the first course, Marinated Shima – Aji with oscietra caviar “Caviar Colony”, champagne dressing was served. Mariated Shima-aji, also known as striped jack, has a clean and delicate taste. Complementing the fish’s fatty features was the citrus element of the champagne sauce and the salinity from the caviar. Next was the Warm Blue Lobster broccolini emulsion, lobster jus. Perfectly cooked lobster tail was equally firm and tender. The lobster jus was robust and had plenty of depth. On this plate the kitchen fully showcases the diversity of the lobster by presenting it in a variety of ways.

“Cotechino”, Italian sausage, baby lentils and red wine sauce was an extra course and was not included in the tasting. This hearty dish is traditionally served on New Year’s Eve and is made up of Italian sausage and lentils as its main component. The house-made Italian sausage has a terrific saltiness that was subdued by the bed of lentils it sat on. Supplying a pleasant sweetness was the red wine sauce. And the garnish of fresh vegetables provided texture as well as some colors. The next course was a pasta course of Veal and Mushroom Agnolotti roasted mushroom and mushroom jus. Cooked al dente, the agnolotti was draped with bountiful shaving of black truffles. It’s filling, a mixture of veal and mushroom was delicious, and the mushroom jus yields a sharp earthiness.

The main course was the Short Rib & Beef Tenderloin – whipped potato, red wine and plum sauce. Both the short ribs and the tenderloin were medium rare with a beautiful pinkish middle. They were succulent and full of flavors. The thick sauce from red wine and plum provided a certain type of sweetness that elevated the dish. Fresh vibrant vegetables and whipped potato were a pleasant companion on the plate.

Prior to dessert, the maitre’d put on a show and prepared a Limochello table side. It was cold,creamy and zesty. This combination was a refreshing palate cleanser. Dessert was the Hazelnut- “millefoglie”, hazelnut gelato and vanilla sauce which has layers of sweetness, and accompanied by a cloudy, sugary, hazelnut gelato. The vanilla sauce added an extra component of sweetness to the dessert. More sweets followed after, in particular the ricotta cheese cake was terrific. Then finally chocolates for petites fours officially marked the end of the meal.

This multi-course dinner was enjoyable. Every plate had a combination of flavors that were uncomplicated and worked in harmony together. The use of luxurious and fresh local ingredients were well executed. The kitchen successfully applied their own modern twist to traditional Italian dishes. With the tasting menu, I opted for the wine pairing. It consists of six glasses of Italian wines that were thoughtfully curated by the sommelier. The wines paired were excellent and were extremely complimentary with every course.

Service at the restaurant was ultra formal. The staff was a mixture of locals and foreigners who were all extremely professional and well trained. They were a bit stiff and almost robotic, yet they will engage from time to time. On the other hand, the maitre’d was very much involved and conversed with guests for a long period. It was nice to see Chef Bombana at the restaurant the night of my visit. He made his rounds in the dining room, stopping at every table more than once during dinner.

Wine Pairing:

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana is popular among traveling gastronomes, business people and especially the well-heeled Hong Kongers. When I dined on a Monday evening, the dining room was boisterous and every table was occupied. Dinner is pricey; however, it is still slightly affordable than other three-star meals in the US, Europe and Japan. Even more approachable compared to other three Michelin starred places in Hong Kong.

With all the accolades that 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana has received, this restaurant is widely considered as among the best in Asia. However the question still remains: is this the best Italian restaurant outside of Italy? That’s for an individual to decide, nevertheless after my visit, I considered this a fine restaurant where one can have a wonderful evening.

Gastrologik **

Gastrologik
Artillerigatan 14, 114 51
Stockholm, Sweden
+46 8 662 30 60
Website

Write up was based on pre-pandemic visit.*

Popularized by the mainstream food media, “sustainability” has been echoing within the restaurant industry these past several years. The Worlds 50 Best Restaurant list has a yearly winner for The Sustainable Restaurant, and most recently the Michelin guide created a new designation called green clover. Meanwhile, Japan and Scandinavian countries has been practicing this long before it became a trend. In Stockholm, two-Michelin starred Gastrologik is a hundred percent sustainable. It only uses local products and has upheld this philosophy since opening in 2016.

Owned by duo chefs Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr who worked at some of Europe’s top kitchens. Chef Jacob Holmström’s resume includes Astrance and Mathias Dahlgren, and Chef Anton Bjuhra, a pastry chef, had stints at different location of Pierre Gagnaire restaurants including the eponymous three Michelin starred in Paris. They opened Gastrologik in 2015 and was awarded a Michelin star after a year, then the second came in 2019. The restaurant has since ranked highly by the Nordic White Guide and has been widely considered one of the finest dining venue in Sweden.

Located in the Stockholm Östermalm section of the city on a quiet residential street, Gastrologik’s non-descript façade is easy to miss. The restaurant’s small Swedish designed dining room is serene. The walls are awash in clean white, while the floors are adorned with oak wood. Windows are covered in thin curtains, allowing ample of natural light to enter. Tables are covered in thick white cloth with soft lighting from copper lamps dropping from the ceiling. There are modern Scandinavian Windsor chairs and comfortable leather caramel brown benches that ran along the wall. An open kitchen with a counter made from copper counter at the back where the food is prepared looks directly out to the dining room.

Gastrologik is only open for dinner and offered one tasting menu for the evening priced at 1800 SEK (at the time of my visit). Dinner started with Honokaka with fennel flowers, a Swedish flat bread served warm. That was followed immediately with a cup of Hay broth which has robust flavor that helps awaken the palate. Chicken liver, meringue and apple was an airy brittle meringue with layers of sweet, tart and savory. This was extremely tasty. Then came a pair of tartlets, the King crab and carrots has an earthy sweetness coming from carrots that was perfectly paired with delicious crab meat. The other was the lumpfish roe with knackerbrod and Oviken cultured cream. Tart crust made from rye was filled with a spoonful of lumpfish roe and sour cream, creating a terrific bite of salinity and sour richness.

On to the larger plates, the Smoke Artic char with best of the 2018 harvest was abowl of preserved vegetables such as carrots, radishes, and celery (just to name a few) with pieces of Artic char floating in a delightful translucent sauce. There were plenty of pickle sourness from the vegetables as well as some earthy bitterness from the radish that were perfectly mix with the smokiness of the Artic char. Raw Smogen shrimp with cucumber were thin cuts of cucumber enclosing raw shrimps from Smogen (a coastal town in Sweden known for their shrimp) bathed in coriander sauce. This was a fascinating dish elevated by coriander sauce’s citric features.

Continuing on with Alesund langoustine with algeas and fennel, meaty langoustine from Alesund Norway was tender and has a crusted charred outer layer that gave it a pleasant burnt taste. The langoustine is resting on a bed of cream and thin tortilla made from sea vegetations. I was instructed to roll the tortilla with everything in it and eat like a taco. Next, the Crispy pancake with grilled herb stems which looks more like a tart than a pancake. It has grilled herbs that exudes wonderful herbal aromas, while the onion cream with smoked butter it sat on gave the pancake an extra layer of flavor.

Sourdough bread made from Warbro kvarn spelt with hand churned butter from Kittelberget was served before the next course of Oyster from Adrian with nettles and wild chervil. The Grilledoyster was drenched in vibrant green sauce made from nettles and wild chervil. The sauce has a pleasant tanginessthat went extremely well with the brininess of the oyster. Served on the shell, was the Diver caught Icelandic bay scallop with eldel flower miso and mussel dashi. Herethesweetness of the scallop was sublimely complemented by the sharp mussel dashi. Tiny slices of dikon radish blanketing the scallop provided the texture.

The Sole with rockweed buds, fish eggs and yellow pea-shoots was a tender piece of fish blanketed in butter sauce. There were plenty of salinity on the sole that was nicely subdued by the butter sauce. Another fish dish, Roefish with ramson and ox marrow came after. The scales were extra crispy and the fish itself was dainty and moist. The smoke ox marrow yieleded a fantastic smoky and savory component on the plate. A lone red meat on this tasting menu was the Beetroot with wild roses and grilled lamb heart -lamb jus. Beetroot shaped like a rose contains an earthy bitterness that goes well with the delightful grilled lamb heart. Surprisingly the lamb heart did not have any traces of gameyness that are common in this type of meat. The flavor pack lamb jus added depth to the dish.

Rhubarb from Lilla Laback with lactic fermented plums was brought to the table prior to dessert. This icy refreshing palate cleanser has a touch of bitterness that helps removed all savory traits from the taste buds. Dessert was composed of three dishes starting with the Spruce resin with crispy lichens and cloudberries, which has the right amount of sweetness and has beautiful floral elements to it as well as some tartness. The subtle bitter taste from the ice cream help bring this dish together. The Pancakes with Swedish punch and lingonberries was covered in caramel syrup topped off with a Swedish punch ice cream. The liquor in the ice cream helps curbed the sugary sweetness of the syrup while the lingonberries added a touch sourness. Lastly apple, caramel and pollen pie was served as the final desert. The pie from pollen was filled with fermented apples giving it strong apple sweetness with an affable tang and balanced by a delicious blanket of cream. I was led back to the lounge for a post dinner drinks and more sweets were served like the lingonberry and black garlic fudge.

Gastrologik tasting was a phenomenal lengthy ordeal consisting of numerous seafood, heavy, and small plates. Cooking was creative and skillful as each course was thoughtfully crafted composed of different flavors that were both unique and interesting. And by using only local and regional ingredients that is in season, this allows the kitchen to get them at their maximum peak. Chef Holmström was at the restaurant during this visit and his presence was shown on every plate that was brought to the table. There was a 1200 SEK beverage pairing comprised of five glasses of red and white European wines with an exception of Herno Gin, a domestic spirit distilled in Sweden paired with main dish. The carefully curated alcoholic beverages wonderfully complemented every single dish that it was paired with.

Wine Pairing:

The staff at Gastrologik were hospitable and pleasant. Chef Holmström himself was at the front of restaurant greeting guest as they come in. The service was informal however the professionalism was still on displayed. Its well-trained staff were full of passion especially when explaining the ingredients and the concept that made up the dishes. The ambiance in the dining room is calm and relaxing. A guest visiting wearing jeans and untucked button-down shirt will not be out of place.

Like any other top restaurant in Scandinavia, especially the Michelin starred ones, Gastrologik is expensive. The meal with wine paring is in the upward of $350 range. However, if one can spare the cost, the cooking is a strong two stars and the uniqueness and the concept of the food at this restaurant makes it worth the price tag. There are many similarities Gastrologik has with the three Michelin starred Frantzen. They were both owned by two chefs who trained at some of the most prestigious kitchen in Europe and both ascended to two star level in short period of time. Perhaps it will follow the same path to three-star stardom. But hopefully unlike Frantzen when they obtained the coveted third star, the duo of chef Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr will still be together

Ho Lee Fook

Ho Lee Fook
3-5 Elgin Street, Soho
Hong Kong, China
+852 2810 0860
Website

Frequented by both locals and tourist, Ho Lee Fook in Sheung Wan is one of the most popular places to eat in Hong Kong. Inspired by the old school Hong Kong tea houses and the 1960 New York Chinatown after hours hang-out, this restaurant is the collaboration between Hong Kong-based Black Sheep restaurants hospitality group (who also owns Michelin starred Belon and New Punjab Club), and Taiwanese born Canadian raise chef Jowett Yu.

The first thing guests notice when they enter Ho Lee Fook is the wall of waving lucky cat statues on the right, just in front of an open kitchen with a counter designed with mahjong tiles. Situated in the basement, is the dim lit dining room with low uncovered ceilings and black wooden tables, with smooth tops paired with dark matching benches and dix jx chairs. The walls are decorated with illuminating painting from local artists.

Ho Lee Fook’s menu boasts a more succinct selection which is extremely uncommon for a Chinese restaurant that often overwhelm their guests. The food is meant for sharing, so having two other people with me was perfect. We started with the chongqing-style chicken wings, heaven facing chillies, dried chillies, sichuan pepper. Deep fried chicken wings covered in chilies were bursting with numbing heat. The diverse spiciness from different chilies created a delightful depth of flavors. And the Bamboo salad, pickled lotus root, snow peas, five-spiced tofu, sesame was satiable. It contains a variety of textures and has a certain subtleness to it.

Next to arrive at our table was the roast goose. The goose was wonderfully roasted. Its skin was crispy, while the meat was juicy and extremely tasty. Hong kong-style french toast, peanut butter, served with maple syrup and condensed milk was the restaurants take on the city’s most popular dish usually served at tea houses. Although it was sugary and nutty, there was still a strong savory aspect. The French toast must be eaten right away in order for it not to turn soggy.

For the wok fried section, we had the black angus beef tenderloin, green peppercorn, celery, cashews. Cuts of luscious angus beef were stir-fried with fresh vegetables and cashews. The marinate from the beef provided the much-needed saltiness while the cashews added extra texture on the plate. Steamed barramundi, ginger, green shallot was a delicate piece of fish garnished with aromatic herbs. The sauce has a pleasing salty sweetness that went well with the barramundi. An order of egg fried rice, crispy garlic, green shallot to go along with these two entrées was more than enough to satisfy us and still have room for dessert.

For dessert, “breakfast 2.0” horlicks ice cream, cornflake honey joy, walnut oatmeal, dried longan, cocoa coffee crumbs replicated a bowl of cereal in the morning with the Horlicks ice cream serving as the milk. Cornflakes coated in honey mixed with walnut oatmeal were crunchy. Dried longan and Horlicks ice cream added a musky and malty sweetness. However the bitterness that came from coffee crumbs helped curb all the sweet elements. Guard’s pudding, candied lemon, kavalan whisky cream, warm pudding accompanied with a distinctively flavored whisky ice cream had a nice contrast of warm and cold. The sweetness of pudding was balanced by the ice cream whisky flavor and the candied lemon provided a wonderful citric component.

We thoroughly enjoyed this meal. This was Chinese food reinterpreted by the chefs own modern way of cooking using Pan-Asian ingredients. Dessert on the other hand (at least what we had) were more westernized and were as good as their savory dishes, if not better. For a party of three with some drinks, it cost us about 1500 HKD ($200) which was a decently priced meal especially for the amount of food that we had.

This restaurant is always packed and often booked at any given day. Reservation is a must. The atmosphere at Ho Lee Fook was extremely laid back. There is music blasting in dining room at a manageable level that diners can still have a conversation without raising their voices. The young hipster staff were friendly and had a chill attitude. Service was just fine and nothing to complain about.

Ho Lee Fook was a restaurant that caught my attention when I was in Hong Kong four years ago. Unfortunately, I never got a chance to go at that time. So, when I found myself back in Hong Kong early this year, I made sure to visit. I had to admit it was the name that I remembered very much and what drew me here. To my delight this restaurant did not disappoint with their food. It’s no wonder why Ho Lee Fook is quite popular.

Frantzén ***

Frantzén
Klara Norra kyrkogata 26, 111 22
Stockholm, Sweden
+46 8 20 85 80
Website

Though its the most populous city of all the Nordic countries with close to a million people, Sweden’s capital Stockholm is often over shadowed by its more famous neighbor Copenhagen in Denmark as the regions culinary hot bed. However, Stockholm has terrific dining scenes that boast a collection of word class restaurants and Michelin starred places including the three starred Frantzén. The restaurant holds the title as the very first in Sweden to received the highest award from Michelin guide, and one of only three in Scandinavia with this honor. In the list for Worlds 50 Best Restaurant 2019, Frantzén occupies the twenty first place.

Frantzén is the namesake restaurant of chef and owner Bjorn Frantzén who at one time was a professional footballer before hanging his cleats for the apron. Chef Frantzén worked at some of the finest kitchen in Europe like Chez Nico and La Tainte Claire in London, Arpege in Paris, and Edsbacka krog in Sweden, the first two Michelin starred restaurant in the country. In 2008, he opened the restaurant as Frantzén /Lindberg with then partner and pastry chef Daniel Lindberg (whom he met at Arpege) in Gamla Stan “Old Town”of Stockholm. They received the first Michelin star in 2009 and the second followed a year after. When Chef Lindberg left in 2013, the restaurant was renamed to Frantzén and maintained the two star status until closing in 2016. Chef Frantzén re-opened the restaurant after a year of closure at a much larger space occupying an entire building in downtown Stockholm. Within five months of operation it was awarded the ultimate three Michelin stars. Under his Frantzén Group, he also owns the two Michelin starred Zen in Singapore, Bobergs Matsal in Stockholm, and Frantzén Kitchen in Hong Kong. Other projects are also soon to open in Asia.

Obtaining a reservation at Frantzén can be daunting task especially with the time difference in the US. But having a flexible schedule, I was able to snag a lunch time reservation. The Frantzén experience started as soon as I rang the door bell. Within seconds a friendly staff welcomed me and was immediately ushered to the elevator after my reservation was confirmed. As I ascended, “Enter the Sand” was blaring through the speakers in the elevator. When I reached the top floor there is lounge area with a distinctively Scandinavian designed complete with multi-colored plush chairs. I made my way to my seat and was presented with a series of of small bites.

First to arrive was the White beer croustade-cold smoked pike-perch,wild trout roe,shiro kombu, Japanese mustard, followed by the Grape macaroon-whipped foie gras, condensed port wine, Danish rye and hibiscus. Then there was the “raraka”, a Swedish delicacy made from potato pancake and salmon roe that was given a certain refinement. The potato pancake was shaped into a cylinder and filled with cream and salmon roe. Finally, to finish was a tart of Celeriac – preserved truffle, argan oil, nutmeg and Swedish maple syrup. These small snacks were a great preview of what was to come.

I was asked by one of the staff to come by the counter in the back part of the lounge to be shown the fresh and luxurious ingredients that will be used for my meal. Afterwards I was escorted down one flight of stairs into a small kitchen used to prepare the small snacks then into dining room where the chef de cuisine introduce himself before being seated at the counter. The dining room features an open kitchen behind the thick wooden “L” shape counter with high chairs that were surprisingly comfortable. Only fifteen guest can be accommodated at the counter, but there are also a limited number of tables available for group dining.

Frantzén offers one tasting menu at 3200 (at the time of my visit) SEK for both lunch and dinner and consisted of twelve or more courses. The first course of Crudo-scallop, salted tomato and plum water, fermented anchovy, horseradish and purple radish was beautifully presented on a crystal bowl. The mixture of radishes and their different types of spiciness gracefully complemented the subtle sweetness of the raw scallop. Also on this bowl was a medley of salinity, tart, and pickleness that brightly comes together.

Next was the Langoustine-crsipy rice (koshihikari) and clarified butter. The langoustine was deliciously juicy and had a perfect coating of crispiness created by the batter of crispy rice. Served on the side was the clarified butter cream dip with green onion powder which was absolutely flavorful on its own. However having it together with the langoustine was magical.

Chawanmushi-Frantzén prestige caviar, aged pork broth, warm egg custard layered with pork broth then topped off with caviar had a delightful contrast of warm and cold. An element of saltiness from the caviar elevated this custard to another level of decadence. The Chawanmushi was accompanied by a terrific crispy pork skin sprinkled with seaweed powder. The meal continued with Splendid alfonsino, ripe yuzu kosho beurre blanc, uni “XO” and sea buckthorn oil. Splendid alfonsino, Kinmedai in Japanese or also known as golden eye snapper was extremely moist and delicately tasty. Its scales were masterfully fried for an extra crispy texture. Enhancing the fish was the watery sauce that contains butter with hints of spiciness and lime.

What followed after was the Monkfish- fermented muhroom broth, pea miso, hazelnut oil and Jerusalem artichoke. The dense monkfish meat was given a nice charred outer crust while the mushroom broth supplied a beautiful earthiness to it. An artichoke puree that fish sat on was a great addition. Onion,liquorice,almond… a cup of of onion soup covered with almond foam and cream of liquorice was made using only three ingredients. It contains a very distinct onion taste that harmoniously blend with the almonds and the sweetness of liquorice. For much needed texture crushed almonds were added. What a glorious dish that sound simple yet so complex.

Then came the Frantzén signature dish which has been on the menu since 2008, French toast “grand tradition 2008”, truffle, “vacche rosse” and vinegar aged on juniper wood. The French toast was assembled right in front of me. First I was shown a wooden box of black truffle then a piece of toast with cream of vacche rosse. The toast was then covered with generous shaving of truffles before finishing off with a few drops of vinegar. This luxurious French toast is full of sublime flavor that the palate thoroughly adored.

For the main course, Spring lamb ‘’blanc de blanc”, wasabi yoghurt, toasted nori, split peas and mint. Scrumptious lamb was perfectly done, it was soft and enormously moist with a wonderful pink middle. Wasbai yogurt and its chilled herbal spiciness was a pleasant companion to the lamb. There are traces of mint scattered all over which brought a refreshing element on the plate.

Dessert was the Buttermilk- and sour rhubarb pumpkin seed praline,saffron sabayone, umeshu and wild strawberries. It was creamy and custardy. There were hints of sourness coming from the rhubarb and fruity sweetness from the strawberries. Next was the Frozen Marshmallow, a marshmallow ice cream that was simply refreshing filled with mint and citrus. Not as sweet as I thought it would be. I returned to lounge where I started to finish the meal with freshly baked Madellines (still warm when served) and a collections of sweets that consist of macaroons, chocolates and candies including a fascinating garlic candy that left a lasting impression.

Impeccable is best describe the meal at Frantzén. There was not a single plate on the tasting menu that failed to impress. Its kitchen exhibit superior cooking skills that was on display on every dish. The food was intricate, well thought out with heavy Japanese influence and plenty of light clean flavors.

Wine parings is available along with juice paring which is commonly offered in Scandinavia’s top restaurant. In this part of the continent, wine mark up can be excessive so I decided to pair this tasting menu with a mixture of alcoholic beverage and juices for a more economical value. This was a request that the restaurant gladly accommodate and I first learned can be done if asked when I visited Geranium in Copenhagen years ago. The alcoholic beverages were a collection of sake, European and US wines while the juices were creatively crafted from fruits and herbs. Both gracefully complemented each course.

Wine Pairing:

Frantzén evokes the well-known Scandinavian friendliness. The staff were young full of smile and welcoming. Though it is fine dining, the atmosphere at the restaurant was informal. But the service was still professional. In addition to the servers, the chefs that prepared the food behind the counter also serves them. They were both very informative and clearly explained each courses in great details.

As a Nordic restaurant Frantzén defies the ethos of New Nordic cuisine which utilized foraging the bounty of the region. Instead they rather sourced the finest and luxurious ingredients that money can buy. It is indeed expensive to dine here which was expected for this type of restaurant in Scandinavia. But if one can afford it they are in for a great dining experience.

There are many world class restaurants out there today but there are only a select few that really sit on the top of the echelon. And Frantzén is deservingly among them. This is a dining establishment that delivers and exceeded what is expected. Chef Frantzén has created a restaurant that is a worth a special trip and a must-visit when in Stockholm. Clearly Frantzén is one of the best in my book.