Daalder
Lindengracht 90
1015 KK Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 624 8864
Official Site
Finding a place to dine in the Netherlands on a Monday is quite a challenge since most of the top and Michelin rated restaurants are closed. Luckily Daalder, a restaurant located in the residential neighborhood of Jordaan in Amsterdam, was open. A quick research online produced nothing but praises and it’s considered to be one of the most exciting restaurants in Amsterdam.
In charge of the kitchen is Executive Chef Gulle De Beer, who previously worked at some of Amsterdam’s notable restaurants that has included Ron Blaauw, Envy, and Bord’ Eau. On my visit sous-chef Freek van Noortwijk was at the helm and since a la carte was not an option (only set menus of 3, 4, 5 and 6 courses for dinner and lunch) I allowed the Chef to work his culinary magic and requested the six course.
Chef van Noortwijk started with a few snacks of smoked almonds that I bypassed and grissini’s with fresh chick pea cream.
The amuse bouche of fresh salad with Dutch shrimp, cabbage,turnip and spring onions with cream of cauliflower, kaffir lime, curry and green apple was a terrific, light and refreshing start.The lively tartare of salmon with varieties of beetroot, horseradish cream, watercress, herring caviar and shallot rings was my first course. The exquisite combination of flavors melded beautifully.
A second course of sea bass on bread crust, variety of fennel and sauce of Pernod had a nice delicate texture. It was followed by pasta shell with cubes of smoked eel, cream of Jerusalem artichoke, salcornia and bread crumbs. The smoked eel permeated the sauce making it not only memorable, but my favorite dish of the tasting.
Thigh of chicken with parsnip cream, anise mushroom, capers, beurrenoisette and a crouton of sourdough which was cooked perfectly was flavorful. For the main course, I was served a Hoisin glazed cheek of veal with spicy bean salad, rice cracker, bok choy and sour cream. Veal cheek has an excellent soft texture and the spiciness was enough for my palate to handle. More heat can be added if requested.
The Chef was accommodating to my request of five savories and one sweet for dessert. He prepared a variety of mango with white chocolate cream, Thai basil ice cream and coconut crumble. The combination of sweet and sour was excellent and the right ending for this meal.
The sequence of courses in my tasting was harmonious and the wine pairing that I requested went perfectly. High quality cooking, yet reasonably priced for a restaurant of this caliber. This was one of the cheapest meals I’ve had in Europe, six courses (60 euros) along with the wine pairing totaled to $104!
Chef van Noortwijk’s talent in the kitchen did not disappoint and exceeded my expectations. The flavor profile in each dish combined with fresh local ingredients was masterful.
Wine Pairing:
Since it was Monday, Daalder was not busy and the server was able to pay a lot more attention to me. Service was relaxed, friendly and unpretentious. Even Chef van Noortwijk, though he was busy prepping for dinner service, was still able to stop by my table a few times to chat.
Daalder is a tale of two restaurants. From the outside it looks like an ordinary bistro blending with the rest of the neighborhood. Its long blond wooden bar, uncovered tables paired with hard wooden seats in the front gave a homey vibe where one can get a drink or garb a quick bite to eat. Towards the back of the restaurant, behind the bar, the setting changes a little. There are cloth covered tables with neatly arranged silverware to go along with comfortable padded chairs. Its white washed walls are decorated with several paintings. A large colorful peacock painting on top of the open kitchen looks out toward the dining room completes the interior.
Highly rated by Gault Millau and other media outlets, my meal at Daalder is comparable if not better than other top rated restaurants that I’ve been to. There is serious talent here that is highly underrated and fails to be recognized by the Michelin Guide. On their home page the restaurants goal is to become “the simplest ‘Michelin Star Cafe’ in the world”. Hopefully they can get one this year, as it deserves one.
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