De Karmeliet
Langestraat 19
8000 Brugge, Belgium
+32 50 33 82 59
Official Site
*This restaurant is now closed
Dutch north Belgium, known as Flanders is the nation’s gastronomic region and home to more Michelin stars per inhabitant than anywhere else in the world. The province of West Flanders and its capital, Bruges, is a haven for such accolades. It houses a total of eight Michelin star venues, including two with 3 stars (Belgium hosts a trio of three star restaurants and all are located in Flanders). I had the pleasure of dining at one of them, De Karmeliet.
Located about twenty minutes by foot from Bruges train station and situated in the heart of this medieval city, De Karmeliet is the brainchild of Chef Geert Van Hecke. Along with his wife who runs the front of the house they own and operate this fine dining institution. For seventeen years the restaurant has held the prestigious three star rating from the Michelin guide, a testament of consistency in performing at high levels year in and year out.
A well known individual in Belgian gastronomy, Chef Van Hecke has outstanding culinary pedigree. He was mentored by the legendary French chef Alain Chapel, cooked at Villa Lorrain in Brussels (the first restaurant to have a three Michelin stars outside of France), and worked in various kitchens in the Gallic region. Fine dining is written all over him and in 1996 he was awarded the third star at De Kameliet making history by becoming the first Flemish chef and restaurant in Flanders to receive such honors.
Classic yet elegant with modern aesthetics is the best way to describe the décor of De Karmeliet. A lounge area is near the front complete with a bar and comfortable sofas, where guests can start with a drink before their meal. Upstairs are calm and hushed dining rooms with high ceilings, clean white walls, and tables covered in perfectly pressed tablecloths with silverware placed in precise positions. There are paintings and sculptures on display throughout the restaurant.
After arriving at De Karmeliet, I was escorted to the glass enclosed section of the lounge where the kitchen is visible. There, I was given the menu and was served homemade potato chips with shaved parmesan cheese to snack on. The prices are expensive and on par with the three Michelin starred restaurants in Paris. After careful consideration I opted for the “Brugge Die Scone”, the six course tasting menu for 210 Euros.
The meal began with a plate preparation of an amuse-bouche. Small nibbles with complex taste and a plate of buttery goose liver mousse. Afterwards I was led to the dining room where I resumed my meal.
Brugge Die Scone:
The first course exhibited the treasure of the North Sea. Marinated John Dory with king crab, tomato juice, and a salad of baby marrow with anchovies. The buttery texture of baby marrow and the saltiness of the anchovies were in symphony with the taste of the deep-sea. This was followed by hop shoots with sobayon of white beer, soft boiled egg and ham “Duke of Berkshire”. Since I don’t eat pork, the restaurant was accommodating to my dietary restriction and substituted the pork with cured duck bits.
Up next were roasted French scallops, ravioli with green asparagus and black truffle from Richerenches. The juicy scallops were delicious and along with the profound taste of black truffles the different elements in the dish gave it a nice flavor profile. Next was the roasted langoustine and goose liver, marinated eggplant with infused seaweed and lemon. The langoustine was roasted impeccably that the infusion of seaweed and lemon gave it more depth, while the nuttiness of the goose liver gave added additional texture.
Then came the milk fed lamb, roasted with rosemary, salsifys a brun and a blanc. It had a nice little hint of spiciness, but the highlight was the lamb itself. I was never a fan of lamb because of the smell, but this dish had no odor. The lamb meat was tender, succulent and cooked excellently. I enjoyed it so much that I had to tell the chef.
A selection of cheeses was the sixth course. Served with crystallized fruits and crusts of bread. The lady of the house brought the cheese cart and I allowed her to choose for me. Although I was more than happy with her selections, I would’ve rather had another savory course and made this course optional.
There were two desserts to finish the tasting. The first was called “A Few Sweet with Fruits”, yet there were no fruits to be seen on the plate, but rather a mixture of mousses and sorbet made from fruits. This was a refreshing dessert that wasn’t overly sweet. Finally, the “Dessert with Chocolate” served with petit-fours, a plate of beautifully arranged Belgian chocolate ended the meal on a high note.
There was a fine selection of predominantly French wines that were available by the bottle but limited options by the glass. Luckily for me the sommelier picked a nice Sauvignon Blanc and at 19 Euros per glass it was a bit pricey. A wine pairing for an extra 100 Euros was also available.
When booking this restaurant I had concerns with service from reading various media outlets on the web, but after dining at De Karmeliet my concerns were laid to rest. The staff were attentive and as a solo diner they also provided reading materials as I waited in between courses. The lady of the house was seen in the dining room and did most of the talking with the guests. Like most fine dining in Europe, the service was “speak when spoken to” and uptight which by now I’d grown accustomed to.
For a restaurant like De Karmeliet who had been a three Michelin star for many years it was easy to fall back and just keep doing what got them to the top. Instead they reinvent themselves and step out of their comfort zone to continuously create flavors using high quality foreign and seasonal Flemish ingredients. Having the distinction of being my first three Michelin star meal in Europe, my high expectations was met and allowed me to enjoy the meal. This is an outstanding restaurant with exceptional cuisine.
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