Dressler
149 Broadway
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 384-6343
Official Site
*This restaurant is now closed.
Recently Brooklyn’s culinary landscape has rivaled that of Manhattan. Its residents no longer need to cross the bridge to enjoy a wonderful dinner. The borough is now home to NY Times rated and Michelin starred restaurants.
I rarely come to Brooklyn to eat or drink and I can basically count on one hand the places that I’ve visited. Living in Manhattan has given me the snobbery attitude that there’s no restaurant better than my home borough, but I do admit I was wrong.
The neighborhood of Williamsburg is a testament that Brooklyn is now a dining destination; there are restaurants on almost every block right next to each other. The south side of the neighborhood, away from the bustling Bedford Avenue is where you will find Dressler, a Michelin starred restaurant for the past six years and one of only six starred establishments in the borough that 2013 guide has awarded. The restaurant sits across from the famous Peter Luger Steak House (another Michelin starred restaurant) along Broadway and a few blocks away from the J and M Marcy station making it accessible to people travelling in from Manhattan.
There were so many good things I’ve heard about Dressler that when it was time to venture to Brooklyn it was my first choice. Unfortunately, with the departure of Executive Chef Polo Dobkin in September of last year there was some hesitation on my part to visit, especially with an average price of $35 an entrée. I never had the chance to dine here when Chef Dobkin was still manning the kitchen, but after multiple visits I was convinced, he left Dressler in good hands.
The New American menu has very good entrees that justify its lofty prices; like the Pan Seared Stripe Bass with broccoli and sun choke cream. The fish was cooked properly and the nice crispy skin was complimented by the sun choke cream. The Long Island Duck Breast was another succulent dish as was the Roasted Chicken with smoked onions and parsnip puree. The chicken was well seasoned and roasted to perfection while the puree added additional moisture to its texture.
Dressler has several starters to choose from, the two that I enjoyed the most are the Grilled Octopus made with chickpea and roasted tomatoes and the Chicken Liver Mousse served with onion jam, pickled ramps, and bread. Chicken liver is not for everyone, but in here this dish was spot on. The octopus on the other hand has a nice texture and the roasted tomatoes added another dimension that tantalized the taste buds. Although these starter dishes average $12 to $19 it’s a norm for New York City.
There are about six selections in their dessert menu that were pretty stellar, like the Maple Panna Cotta. This was a wonderful dessert to end a great meal; the sweetness was low key not at all overpowering to the palate. There’s also the Warm Gingerbread and its potent rum sauce that is balanced out with the pumpkin ice cream making this yet another delightful dessert.
Not only does Dressler possess a formidable wine list but also a host of creative cocktails. One being the Grace Jones, a cocktail made with rum and allspice dram which adds a hint of spiciness. There’s also the light and refreshing Ingenue, cucumber vodka, Prosecco, and St. Germaine for sweetness. This drink goes down smoothly, which can be dangerous if more than a few are drunk as the night goes on.
The restaurant is handsomely decorated with artisanal metal works that are displayed throughout its interior. In the front is a long galvanized iron bar top with high chairs that are made of steel. It is crafted beautifully and seems most likely to weigh a ton. There are exquisite chandeliers that create a dimly lit dining room. Large mirrors hang on the brick walls, which are painted in red, while black wood tables and chairs complete the space. Giving the impression of what an 18th century establishment might have looked like.
Dressler can be loud on busy nights, especially the front where locals and out of borough guest wait for a table. The music is not too overly loud that you need to shout for yourself to be heard but it isn’t soft either. In one of my visits Talib Kweli was playing in the restaurants background adding to the BK atmosphere.
The website states that Dressler is a “fine dining in Williamsburg” but it’s more of a casual restaurant. The service and hospitality exceeded my expectations. They provided impeccable service that can definitely be found in fine dining establishments. The servers were engaging and knowledgeable, very accommodating to make sure their guests have an excellent dining experience.
Twenty years ago crossing the bridge to dine in Brooklyn was unheard of. The borough has evolved; gentrification has sprouted restaurants that are very good and worth a trip. All though Manhattan might still be the gastronomy capital of New York City, Brooklyn has closed the gap in recent years and Dressler is in the forefront of that evolution.
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