Ho Lee Fook 3-5 Elgin Street, Soho Hong Kong, China +852 2810 0860 Website
Frequented by both locals and tourist, Ho Lee Fook in Sheung Wan is one of the most popular places to eat in Hong Kong. Inspired by the old school Hong Kong tea houses and the 1960 New York Chinatown after hours hang-out, this restaurant is the collaboration between Hong Kong-based Black Sheep restaurants hospitality group (who also owns Michelin starred Belon and New Punjab Club), and Taiwanese born Canadian raise chef Jowett Yu.
The first thing guests notice when they enter Ho Lee Fook is the wall of waving lucky cat statues on the right, just in front of an open kitchen with a counter designed with mahjong tiles. Situated in the basement, is the dim lit dining room with low uncovered ceilings and black wooden tables, with smooth tops paired with dark matching benches and dix jx chairs. The walls are decorated with illuminating painting from local artists.
Ho Lee Fook’s menu boasts a more succinct selection which is extremely uncommon for a Chinese restaurant that often overwhelm their guests. The food is meant for sharing, so having two other people with me was perfect. We started with thechongqing-style chicken wings, heaven facing chillies, dried chillies, sichuan pepper. Deep fried chicken wings covered in chilies were bursting with numbing heat. The diverse spiciness from different chilies created a delightful depth of flavors. And the Bamboo salad, pickled lotus root, snow peas, five-spiced tofu, sesame was satiable. It contains a variety of textures and has a certain subtleness to it.
Next to arrive at our table was theroast goose. The goosewas wonderfully roasted. Its skin was crispy, while the meat was juicy and extremely tasty.Hong kong-style french toast, peanut butter, served with maple syrup and condensed milkwas the restaurants take on the city’s most popular dish usually served at tea houses. Although it was sugary and nutty, there was still a strong savory aspect. The French toast must be eaten right away in order for it not to turn soggy.
For the wok friedsection, we had the black angus beef tenderloin, green peppercorn, celery, cashews. Cuts of luscious angus beef were stir-fried with fresh vegetables and cashews. The marinate from the beef provided the much-needed saltiness while the cashews added extra texture on the plate. Steamed barramundi, ginger, green shallotwas a delicate piece of fish garnished with aromatic herbs. The sauce has a pleasing salty sweetness that went well with the barramundi. An order of egg fried rice, crispy garlic, green shallot to go alongwith these two entrées was more than enough to satisfy us and still have room for dessert.
For dessert, “breakfast 2.0” horlicks ice cream, cornflake honey joy, walnut oatmeal, dried longan, cocoa coffee crumbs replicated a bowl of cereal in the morning with the Horlicks ice cream serving as the milk. Cornflakes coated in honey mixed with walnut oatmeal were crunchy. Dried longan and Horlicks ice cream added a musky and malty sweetness. However the bitterness that came from coffee crumbs helped curb all the sweet elements. Guard’s pudding, candied lemon, kavalan whisky cream, warm pudding accompanied with a distinctively flavored whisky ice cream had a nice contrast of warm and cold. The sweetness of pudding was balanced by the ice cream whisky flavor and the candied lemon provided a wonderful citric component.
We thoroughly enjoyed this meal. This was Chinese food reinterpreted by the chefs own modern way of cooking using Pan-Asian ingredients. Dessert on the other hand (at least what we had) were more westernized and were as good as their savory dishes, if not better. For a party of three with some drinks, it cost us about 1500 HKD ($200) which was a decently priced meal especially for the amount of food that we had.
This restaurant is always packed and often booked at any given day. Reservation is a must. The atmosphere at Ho Lee Fook was extremely laid back. There is music blasting in dining room at a manageable level that diners can still have a conversation without raising their voices. The young hipster staff were friendly and had a chill attitude. Service was just fine and nothing to complain about.
Ho Lee Fook was a restaurant that caught my attention when I was in Hong Kong four years ago. Unfortunately, I never got a chance to go at that time. So, when I found myself back in Hong Kong early this year, I made sure to visit. I had to admit it was the name that I remembered very much and what drew me here. To my delight this restaurant did not disappoint with their food. It’s no wonder why Ho Lee Fook is quite popular.
Frantzén Klara Norra kyrkogata 26, 111 22 Stockholm, Sweden +46 8 20 85 80 Website
Though its the most populous city of all the Nordic countries with close to a million people, Sweden’s capital Stockholm is often over shadowed by its more famous neighbor Copenhagen in Denmark as the regions culinary hot bed. However, Stockholm has terrific dining scenes that boast a collection of word class restaurants and Michelin starred places including the three starred Frantzén. The restaurant holds the title as the very first in Sweden to received the highest award from Michelin guide, and one of only three in Scandinavia with this honor. In the list for Worlds 50 Best Restaurant 2019, Frantzén occupies the twenty first place.
Frantzén is the namesake restaurant of chef and owner Bjorn Frantzén who at one time was a professional footballer before hanging his cleats for the apron. Chef Frantzén worked at some of the finest kitchen in Europe like Chez Nico and La Tainte Claire in London, Arpege in Paris, and Edsbacka krog in Sweden, the first two Michelin starred restaurant in the country. In 2008, he opened the restaurant as Frantzén /Lindberg with then partner and pastry chef Daniel Lindberg (whom he met at Arpege) in Gamla Stan “Old Town”of Stockholm. They received the first Michelin star in 2009 and the second followed a year after. When Chef Lindberg left in 2013, the restaurant was renamed to Frantzén and maintained the two star status until closing in 2016. Chef Frantzén re-opened the restaurant after a year of closure at a much larger space occupying an entire building in downtown Stockholm. Within five months of operation it was awarded the ultimate three Michelin stars. Under his Frantzén Group, he also owns the two Michelin starred Zen in Singapore, Bobergs Matsal in Stockholm, and Frantzén Kitchen in Hong Kong. Other projects are also soon to open in Asia.
Obtaining a reservation at Frantzén can be daunting task especially with the time difference in the US. But having a flexible schedule, I was able to snag a lunch time reservation. The Frantzén experience started as soon as I rang the door bell. Within seconds a friendly staff welcomed me and was immediately ushered to the elevator after my reservation was confirmed. As I ascended, “Enter the Sand” was blaring through the speakers in the elevator. When I reached the top floor there is lounge area with a distinctively Scandinavian designed complete with multi-colored plush chairs. I made my way to my seat and was presented with a series of of small bites.
First to arrive was the White beer croustade-cold smoked pike-perch,wild trout roe,shiro kombu, Japanese mustard, followed by the Grape macaroon-whipped foie gras, condensed port wine, Danish rye and hibiscus. Then there was the “raraka”, a Swedish delicacy made from potato pancake and salmon roe that was given a certain refinement. The potato pancake was shaped into a cylinder and filled with cream and salmon roe. Finally, to finish was a tart of Celeriac – preserved truffle, argan oil, nutmeg and Swedish maple syrup. These small snacks were a great preview of what was to come.
I was asked by one of the staff to come by the counter in the back part of the lounge to be shown the fresh and luxurious ingredients that will be used for my meal. Afterwards I was escorted down one flight of stairs into a small kitchen used to prepare the small snacks then into dining room where the chef de cuisine introduce himself before being seated at the counter. The dining room features an open kitchen behind the thick wooden “L” shape counter with high chairs that were surprisingly comfortable. Only fifteen guest can be accommodated at the counter, but there are also a limited number of tables available for group dining.
Frantzén offers one tasting menu at 3200 (at the time of my visit) SEK for both lunch and dinner and consisted of twelve or more courses. The first course of Crudo-scallop, salted tomato and plum water, fermented anchovy, horseradish and purple radish was beautifully presented on a crystal bowl. The mixture of radishes and their different types of spiciness gracefully complemented the subtle sweetness of the raw scallop. Also on this bowl was a medley of salinity, tart, and pickleness that brightly comes together.
Next was the Langoustine-crsipy rice (koshihikari) and clarified butter. The langoustine was deliciously juicy and had a perfect coating of crispiness created by the batter of crispy rice. Served on the side was the clarified butter cream dip with green onion powder which was absolutely flavorful on its own. However having it together with the langoustine was magical.
Chawanmushi-Frantzén prestige caviar, aged pork broth, warm egg custard layered with pork broth then topped off with caviar had a delightful contrast of warm and cold. An element of saltiness from the caviar elevated this custard to another level of decadence. The Chawanmushi was accompanied by a terrific crispy pork skin sprinkled with seaweed powder. The meal continued with Splendid alfonsino, ripe yuzu kosho beurre blanc, uni “XO” and sea buckthorn oil. Splendid alfonsino, Kinmedai in Japanese or also known as golden eye snapper was extremely moist and delicately tasty. Its scales were masterfully fried for an extra crispy texture. Enhancing the fish was the watery sauce that contains butter with hints of spiciness and lime.
What followed after was the Monkfish- fermented muhroom broth, pea miso, hazelnut oil and Jerusalem artichoke. The dense monkfish meat was given a nice charred outer crust while the mushroom broth supplied a beautiful earthiness to it. An artichoke puree that fish sat on was a great addition. Onion,liquorice,almond… a cup of of onion soup covered with almond foam and cream of liquorice was made using only three ingredients. It contains a very distinct onion taste that harmoniously blend with the almonds and the sweetness of liquorice. For much needed texture crushed almonds were added. What a glorious dish that sound simple yet so complex.
Then came the Frantzén signature dish which has been on the menu since 2008, French toast “grand tradition 2008”, truffle, “vacche rosse” and vinegar aged on juniper wood. The French toast was assembled right in front of me. First I was shown a wooden box of black truffle then a piece of toast with cream of vacche rosse. The toast was then covered with generous shaving of truffles before finishing off with a few drops of vinegar. This luxurious French toast is full of sublime flavor that the palate thoroughly adored.
For the main course, Spring lamb ‘’blanc de blanc”, wasabi yoghurt, toasted nori, split peas and mint. Scrumptious lamb was perfectly done, it was soft and enormously moist with a wonderful pink middle. Wasbai yogurt and its chilled herbal spiciness was a pleasant companion to the lamb. There are traces of mint scattered all over which brought a refreshing element on the plate.
Dessert was theButtermilk- and sour rhubarb pumpkin seed praline,saffron sabayone, umeshu and wild strawberries. Itwas creamy and custardy. There were hints of sourness coming from the rhubarb and fruity sweetness from the strawberries. Next was the Frozen Marshmallow, a marshmallow ice cream that was simply refreshing filled with mint and citrus. Not as sweet as I thought it would be. I returned to lounge where I started to finish the meal with freshly baked Madellines (still warm when served) and a collections of sweets that consist of macaroons, chocolates and candies including a fascinating garlic candy that left a lasting impression.
Impeccable is best describe the meal at Frantzén. There was not a single plate on the tasting menu that failed to impress. Its kitchen exhibit superior cooking skills that was on display on every dish. The food was intricate, well thought out with heavy Japanese influence and plenty of light clean flavors.
Wine parings is available along with juice paring which is commonly offered in Scandinavia’s top restaurant. In this part of the continent, wine mark up can be excessive so I decided to pair this tasting menu with a mixture of alcoholic beverage and juices for a more economical value. This was a request that the restaurant gladly accommodate and I first learned can be done if asked when I visited Geranium in Copenhagen years ago. The alcoholic beverages were a collection of sake, European and US wines while the juices were creatively crafted from fruits and herbs. Both gracefully complemented each course.
Wine Pairing:
Frantzén evokes the well-known Scandinavian friendliness. The staff were young full of smile and welcoming. Though it is fine dining, the atmosphere at the restaurant was informal. But the service was still professional. In addition to the servers, the chefs that prepared the food behind the counter also serves them. They were both very informative and clearly explained each courses in great details.
As a Nordic restaurant Frantzén defies the ethos of New Nordic cuisine which utilized foraging the bounty of the region. Instead they rather sourced the finest and luxurious ingredients that money can buy. It is indeed expensive to dine here which was expected for this type of restaurant in Scandinavia. But if one can afford it they are in for a great dining experience.
There are many world class restaurants out there today but there are only a select few that really sit on the top of the echelon. And Frantzén is deservingly among them. This is a dining establishment that delivers and exceeded what is expected. Chef Frantzén has created a restaurant that is a worth a special trip and a must-visit when in Stockholm. Clearly Frantzén is one of the best in my book.
elements 66 Witherspoon St. Princeton, NJ 08542 (609) 924-0078 Website
Seventy five miles south of the New York City is the wealthy town of Princeton New Jersey. Famous for its name sake Ivy League school, the town is also home to the restaurant, elements. Considered as the top dining venue in the Garden State, this restaurant has garnered national praise throughout the years. Its chef and owner Scott Anderson is a Jersey native and a self-taught chef. He worked at a number of New Jersey restaurant that includes the Ryland Inn before establishing elements in 2008.
Elements is located in heart of Princeton along the town’s main drag where all the main events take place. The restaurant is situated on the second floor of an industrial building that also houses its more casual sister restaurant, Mistral. The dining room has twenty eight dark oak wooden tables, ceilings with exposed wooden beams, and an open kitchen.
There are several dining option at elements, a Chef Tasting Menu and Grand Tasting Menu available any day of the week, a four-course on week nights, and a five course on the weekend. On this visit, the Chef Tasting Menu priced at $129 was the choice. It consists of eight or so courses with three small snacks to start.
Dinner began with quail eggs presented in a nest, it had a pleasant salty smokiness to it. Next was the local mushroom, which arrived at the table mimicking a forest ground complete with musk and tree trunk. The mushroom is gelatinous with subtle earthiness. And the final bite, crispy chicken with egg yolk and summer truffles was a terrific crispy fried chicken skin oozing in thick egg yolk with sharp truffle note.
For the first course, the Scallop-horseradish, soy calamansi were chunks of scallop served on the shell awash with vibrant acidic yellow sauce. The sauce acidity and the spiciness of horseradish were paired nicely with the scallop clean sweetness. Also served on the shell was the Surf Clam-celery root, shallot, cured pork. The clam was drenched in foam of celery root then topped off with fried onions and fresh shallots. The cured pork not only provided the much needed saltiness but also fat to balance the dish. An off the menu course of sashimi of surf clam was served immediately after. Raw clams are usually tasteless but here it was beautifully flavored with soy sauce and citrus.
Next was the Sable Fish- tomato, miso, eggplant, tomato sauce. Also known as cod, the sable fish was delicate and buttery. The tomato sauce created an extra layer of flavor that elevated the fish while the spinach crisp added a pleasant bitterness as well as crunchy texture. That was followed by Princeton Mushroom- taleggio, leeks, truffle which were locally grown mushrooms freshly picked on that day. This enjoyable dish contains plenty of diverse earthiness.
The meal continued on with land proteins, Pheasant- sauce albufera, mustrad, tarragon features the dark and white meat of the pheasant which were prepared accordingly. The mustard distinct presence on the plate gave the pheasant meat an extra dimension of taste. Venison-sassafras, celery root, huckleberry was a scrumptious flavorful piece of venison decorated with petals and herbs. The huckleberry syrup contains a berry sweetness that complemented the venison. There was a slight spiciness in the background that managed to blend in with other component on the plate. Ribeye-hickory smoked, mushroom, herbs was the main course. The ribeye was tender and extremely moist. It had a wonderful woody smokiness and a delightful touch of sweetness.
Presented in a whole green lime the Citrus-sorrel and buckwheat had a soothing creamy zest that cleans the palate of all the savory residue. Dessert was the Farmer’s Cheese- hazelnut,plum,caramel, frozen tangy cheese sweetened with sugary caramel and fruity plums. Helping to restrain the sweetness and add texture to this dessert were the hazelnut crumbles. Finally chocolate with sea salt marked the ending of the meal.
The Chef Tasting Menu at element was enjoyable. It was well put together and shows the kitchen’s skillful art of cooking. They utilize mainly local ingredients from New Jersey to produce dishes with mixture of flavors that works. The pairing of eight glasses of European wine cost an economical $89 were curated to complement each course.
Service was hard to complain about at elements. The staff was efficient and professional. At times the chefs from the kitchen including Chef Anderson himself brought out the food to the table. They were engaging to some degree and every individual staff were able to explain every course clearly.
Wine Pairing:
Having the richest GDP in any metro in the US, the supply of terrific restaurant are in abundance, but most of them are usually confined within the five boroughs of New York City. However for Princeton residents there’s no need to travel to have a fine meal. Elements offers and delivers a solid dining experience that are comparable of that of New York City. Being in a small town, it’s easy to stand out but there is no doubt that this restaurant can shine with the with the finest in the Northeast.
ABaC Av. del Tibidabo 1, 08022 Barcelona, Spain +34 933 19 66 00 Website
These past few
years has been very good for Spanish haute cuisine. From 2016 to 2018 there
were four restaurants that received three Michelin stars. The city of
Barcelona was the biggest winner, as it gained two in back-to-back guide
including its first ever, the restaurant
Lasarte in 2016 and ABaC in
2017 (Aponiente in Cadiz also was elevated to three stars on
the same year). It was merely a matter of time for ABaC, to receive the
Michelin three star level since its reigns were handed over to Jordi Cruz. He had
a knack for rising above expectations, impressing diners, and receiving rave
review for his modern Catalan cuisine.
At the tender age of 26, Chef Cruz became the youngest chef in Spain to earn a Michelin star at the Estany Clar in the outskirt of Barcelona. He started working at that restaurant in his early teens and became the head chef at 18. He then opened Angle, which also gained a Michelin star. In 2010 he was recruited to replace Xavier Pellicer as head chef of the two starred ABaC restaurant. For six years he was able to maintain the rating until 2017 when it was finally awarded the ultimate third star. Presently, Chef Cruz is in partnership with the ABaC group and is in charge of all dining at its hotels. These include the one star Angle, Ten Tapas in Barcelona, and the recently opened Atempo in Girona.
ABaC is the main dining venue of boutique hotels that bears the same name in the residential neighborhood located outside the city center of Barcelona. Guest are welcomed at their outdoor patio garden area for some pre-dinner drinks before being escorted in to the kitchen. They are then led to the dining room and on to their table. The music less dining rooms can seat up to 56 guest and has floor-to-ceiling glass walls that allow plenty of natural light to come in. Uniformed oval and round tables covered in thick linen are spaced abundantly from each other, while film reel lamps hanging above the ceiling, provide soft lighting. The natural interior tones exude elegance.
The meal began in the kitchen where amuse bouche of Lime cactus, tequila and green leaves, Crunchy bread with spicy tomato sauce and basil and the Galician Salmon and cured egg yolk, trout eggs, soya butter and Nori textures were served in rapid succession. These bite-sized offering were all terrific starters.
For this visit, the “Grand ABaC” menu was the choice. To start a small cup of flavorful broth to excite the palate was presented with the first course of “Sardo/ina”, gurum style sardine tartar on toast with “escalibada”. Served on a crispy toast, the sardine tartare was extremely fresh and tasty. Next, was A reference to tuna marrow, miso soup with tuna belly and wasabi. A tasty fatty cut of raw marinated tuna belly that contains nice hints of wasabi spiciness. That was followed by the Mussels in carrot “escabeche” which has a good mixture of mussel flavor, sweet earthy notes from the carrots and also having a sharp salinity.
Amelie Esmerald oyster with fermented cabbage and smoke piparra was bursting with intense sourness. The oyster was imparted with pleasant acidity and pickled flavors. The Pine: toasted pine nuts ice cream, cure foie gras shaving and pine shoots was a terrific dish with plenty of refreshing features while also possessing a savory nuttiness.
Continuing on with the Tree trunk: boletus consommé, parmesan gnocchi with bread crusts, mushroom and truffle. This course consisted of two dishes that came in a tree trunk like ceramic container. The top is covered in paper thin slices of mushroom resting on a bed a of parmesan cheese. When the top is removed, there is the dark brown savory broth filled with pungent truffle essence. Supplying a pleasing saltiness to the broth were the parmesan gnocchi. The Service of different parts of prawns with infused prawn rice was prepared table side. The prawn infused rice with cream sauce of peanuts and prawns was delightful. The boiled prawn’s head was bursting with flavor. Overall, this dish brilliantly highlighted the prawn’s distinct taste in a variety of ways.
The Parpatana stew and veal with hazelnuts like chickpeas, crispy kale and citrus was a fascinating mixture of veal and tuna that surprisingly produce robust flavors with an element of sweetness. And for texture, crispy dehydrated kale was added as a garnish. Next two courses consisted of duck as the main ingredient, first was the Duck rilletes with spicy blinis and crunchy nervares and tongue salad which was rich and delicious. The blandness of the merengue was the perfect vessel for the rillets, and the side of a duck salad makes a great partner on the plate. Then, there was the Grilled duck magret, pumpkin, spices and lavender. Grilled to perfection the duck was tender, scrumptious and flavorful. It also has a wonderful sauce from pumpkin and vanilla that added an extra depth of flavors.
For the main course Game meats with romesco and beetroot textures with hazel nut oil was served. The pigeon was wonderfully cooked, it had a beautiful outer layer of crispiness and the romesco sauce it sat on yields the right amount of saltiness that was needed. To balance the dish was sweet earthy bitterness of the beetroot puree.
Tea service was a bowl of foam made from earl grey tea and frozen chamomile with a side of frozen yogurt. This was refreshing and citrusy, and a great palate cleanser. While the main dessert was being prepared table side, the server presented the Violet egg with yogurt foam and crunchy biscuit made from blueberry. The server’s instruction was to break it with the spoon, the egg by itself has a tongue pleasing soothing fruitiness while the yogurt and biscuit together provided a certain sweetness to it.
The main dessert of Banana flan cake with carmelized textures was caramel in different forms. There was a caramel ice cream made from caramel syrup frozen in liquid nitrogen. The same syrup was also used to steam the banana cake beforehand giving it a sugary aroma, caramel puree for added sweetness, and caramel crisp for texture. This was a well-made sugary delight, especially when the ice cream is eaten with banana cake. The combination of warmth and cold and sugary sweetness was terrific.
This marathon that lasted for nearly four hours ended with a collection of small confections presented on heavy iron works. They were all wonderful, especially the lipstick from beetroot, roses and strawberry.
Chef Cruz was present at kitchen during this visit. His highly technical cooking techniques was on display in this meal. There was a strong focus on saltiness which can be tasted in almost every course. However, it did not over power everything else on the plate, instead it was able to mingle in harmony. A wine pairing for 105 EUR of Spanish and French wines was opted with this meal. Nine glasses of wines were arranged to help subdue the salty aspect, and also provide balance on every course while also creating an uplifting after taste.
Service at ABaC was formal and a bit stiff.
It seems odd since most of the staff are young. However they were willing to
engage on a small conversation from time to time. Dressed neatly in black suit
and white shirt with black tie, the staff are well-verse and extremely capable.
The different faces that came by the table explained each course clearly.
Wine Pairing:
As one of the youngest three star
restaurant currently in the world, ABaC price point hasn’t caught up with the
rest of its three Michelin compatriots yet. Dining here is accessible to many. The
longer tasting menu with wine pairing was less than 300 EUR (the price increase
is only a matter of time), cheaper than the other three star restaurant in
Barcelona and in Spain.
Both
the dining public and the media are in love with ABaC and its young chef. So
much so that prior to 2016 both side was
in clear consensus that this was the best chance for Barcelona to finally have
their very first three Michelin star restaurant. Unfortunately, that did not
happened, it had to wait another year to finally join the ranks of only 130 or
so worldwide. And after a visit, it is clear that this restaurant was deserving
of the three star distinction. ABaC is no doubt, operating at a world class
level.
For as long as the Michelin guide has been publishing in Spain, it has never found a restaurant in Barcelona deemed worthy of its highest honor. This was quiet puzzling especially for city like Barcelona, a place that has garnered more Michelin stars than anywhere else in Spain, while heralding a reputation as among the top gastronomic epicenter. Even its biggest rival, Madrid had Zalacain, (which had three stars from 1987-1995), and DiverXo since 2013. The tides finally turned for Barcelona in 2016, when the then two starred Lasarte was elevated to three, finally giving the Catalan capital its first ever.
The restaurant is owned by superstar Basque chef Martin Berasategui, and is named after the town in the Basque Country where his flagship restaurant resides. This culinary titan is the most decorated chef in the country. His collection of restaurants in Spain and in Latin America has garnered him 10 Michelin stars, including two with three stars, a rare accomplishment only attained by a very select few. He opened Lasarte in 2006 and quickly won its first Michelin star a year later, then the second came in 2009, But it wasn’t until the arrival of Italian chef Paolo Casagrande as the chef de cuisine in 2012 that elevated this restaurant to three star level.
Chef Casagrande is a veteran of Martin Berasategui’s restaurant group. He gained his first star working at Restaurante MB in Tenerifie. He then moved on to a luxury resort in Italy before returning to work again for Chef Berasategui at Lasarte. In addition to Lasarte, Chef Casagrande is also in charge of the one star Oria, and the Hallo Bar in the Monument Hotel.
Situated on the ground floor of the ultra-luxe Monument Hotel in the heart of Barcelona’s shopping district in Paseig de Gracia, Lasarte’s dining room is spacious, bright with tall wavy ceilings. It has a clean modern décor with plenty of light oak finishing. The oversize tables are covered in extra thick white cloths matched with dark heavy padded chairs that were extremely comfortable and long ivory leather benches.
Lasarte’s dining option are, the 235 EUR (at the time of my visit) tasting menu, a shorter “Lasarte Menu” and a la carte. The longer menu was the choice on this visit. An array of snacks started the meal, sea anemone with yuzu, Strip of toast with raw shrimp curry and beetroot with caviar and Jerusalem artichoke were both amazing. But the foie gras, eel, and caramelized green apple mille feuille with crème sauce which is also Lasarte signature dish was even better. It was a mouth full of savory pleasure. Not to be outdone, was the cucumber and jalapeno mouse with mussels and its chilled spiciness.
Afterwards, the cart with a variety of warm freshly baked bread was rolled in by the table. The bread was served with regular, mushroom, tomato, spinach and beet root butter along with a special olive oil made from one hundred percent Arbequina olives called Bago Baldios San Carlos.
For the first course, the Slightly marinated warm oyster with iced watercress slush, parsnip and champagne was a pleasant contrast of warm and cold. The warm oyster was strong in flavor, and was nicely accompanied by the soothing pepperiness of the watercress slush. Next was the Sea urchin curd with sautéed scallops and fresh peas, sea cucumber and liquated “radiccio rosso”. Here the sweetness of scallops was paired successfully with the buttery urchin curd. On the other hand, the foam from radiccio added a terrific bitterness. The Wagyu carpaccio with extract of terragon, smoked mullet and frozen cheese powder were cuts of scrumptious beef. There was hints of zest on the beef that wonderfully complemented the smokiness of the mullet. And for added texture frozen cheese was used for garnish.
The Squid Tartare with liquid egg yolk, onion and kaffir consommé was composed of raw squid topped with warm egg yolk and sprinkled with amaranth toast. I find the yolks thick consistency, the subtleness of the raw squid, and the citrus elements of the kaffir consommé to be an interesting combination. That was followed by a signature Chef Berastegui dish, the Vegetable leaves and petals salad, herbs, sprout with lettuce cream and lobster. A colorful plate of lush vegetables and herbs with delectable lobster meat on top of clear gelatin made from tomato. This amazing dish is full of sublime flavors.
Red prawn on a seabed, fennel and coral emulsion was a giant prawn presented whole. The prawn was extremely tasty and the translucent watery broth with coral emulsion and sea weed cream that it sat on yields a profound features of the sea. The Black truffle glazed Hare ravioli with sautéed artichokes and trompette mushroom were raviolis stuffed with delicious hare and covered in foam of black truffle. The foams pungent truffleness was elegantly fused with other earthy component on the plate. Virrey fish with iodized sauce, king crab, raw tomatoes and saffron was cooked perfectly. It was tender and contained a wonderful amount of salinity. The basil and saffron cream gave the fish an extra layer of flavors while the different composition of tasty crab meat serves as an enticing supplement.
For the main course marinated and charcoal, grilled venison, winter vegetables, persimmon and “biancoperla’ con cream was served. Succulent venison meat came with fresh salad with persimmon and blood orange and corn cream made from special type of corn from Italy. The mildness of the corn cream and the lightness of the salad was a great companion to the venison.
Finally, on to
sweet courses! Shiso and mint leaves sorbet, acid touches and milk
crisp has a palatable richness and refreshing acidity. The
pistachio sponge cake was particularly delightful. Almonds and salt
praline, apricot and rum ice cream was the main dessert. The sugary
sweetness from the salted praline with caramel was curbed by the alcohol from therum
ice cream and also helps balance this dessert. As a bonus, petites fours of
classic Catalonian sweets concluded the meal.
This tasting menu was well put together. From the beginning
to the end, one course after another it has myriad of flavors and textures that
comes together. Each dish has complexity, balance and an abundance of colors.
Their interpretation of Modern Spanish
cuisine was less experimental than the kinds that is currently sweeping the
dining world. The wine pairing for 135 EUR
comprised of six glasses of local Spanish wines were consummately designed to complement
the food.
Joan Carles Ibáñez, the manager in charge of the dining room was on hand during this visit. Under his supervision the dining room operated flawlessly offering impeccable hospitality to the guest. Although the service was uptight, and almost robotic, the staff were extremely knowledgeable and accommodating. They explained every course and answered any questions clearly.
Wine Pairing:
A complete meal at Lasarte with the wine pairing will set you back 370 EUR per person which is still a tad below compared to other three star places in Paris and in the US. This is one of the priciest restaurant (if not the most) in Barcelona and in Spain. It caters to wealthy locals and tourist alike, but if taken to account the high level of cooking and professionalism of the personnel it was worth the amount paid.
The kitchen staff and the front of the house of a three Michelin star restaurant has a great deal of pressure to deliver perfection every day. However as the first restaurant in Barcelona to receive such accolade it has an added pressure that Chef Casagrande and his partner Joan Carles Ibáñez managed very well. They exceeded expectation by providing a stellar dining from start to finish.
Sant Pau
Carrer Nou, 10, 08395
Sant Pol de Mar, Spain
+34 937 60 06 62
Nestled between Barcelona and Girona, in the North Eastern part of Spain, is the charming seaside town of San Pol De Mar. The town is home to Catalan born chef, Carme Ruscalleda, and her three Michelin Starred Restaurant Sant Pau. Chef Ruscalleda is a culinary superstar who has authored several books and won numerous awards. Her total of seven Michelin stars is second only to Martin Berasategui (with ten) in the nation, while sharing the title with Ann Sophie Pic as the most starred female chef.
Chef Ruscalleda opened Restaurant Sant Pau in 1988 with her husband Tony Balam, and it was awarded a Michelin star in 1991. The second star came in 1996, then eventually the third star in 2008 in which they had continuously maintained up to this day. In addition to San Pau, Chef Ruscalleda also operates a pair of two Michelin starred restaurant, San Pau in Tokyo, and Moments in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Barcelona.
It takes an hour by train to get to Sant Pau from Barcelona. The journey itself is beautiful and scenic as the train runs along the coast. The tracks are a few feet away from the sea, and you can literally watch the waves crashing to the rocks from your seat. From San Pol de Mar train station, the restaurant is meters away situated on a small street and easy to find especially with its colorful façade. Sant Pau’s interior is modest compare to the other three Michelin starred places. The main dining room has an abundance of natural light with walls in rusted yellow. There are well-spaced round tables covered in thick cloth with classic wooden chairs, and they are arranged for the guest to look out to the Mediterranean Sea. Separated by French doors, is another room which is dimly lit with colors of dark red dominating the space.
Sant Pau offers a tasting menu for both lunch and dinner priced at 189 EUR, while also having an a la carte selection. On this visit, I had the tasting menu. To start, the MEMORIES OF A SHOP– cod croquette, spicy green pepper ganxet, black and “del perol” botifarra, bread with tomato salty cheese cake, olives and herbs were small snacks served all at once. They were terrific intro to this meal, but the cheese cake and its savory aspect was particularly delightful.
The first course, was the Japanese Style Cured Dentex – beetroot and vegetables. It had a distinct beets sauce that went extremely well with the cured fish. The garnish of fresh diced mix vegetables provided texture that it needed. The ANIMAL, OR PLANT – anemone ravioli, basil, pistachios was interesting. A ravioli made from sea anemone (a type of animal related to jelly fish and corals) features a clean oceanic taste.
TERROIR FLAVORS- dewlap, beans, xiulet, romesco sauce was a medley of green beans on top of salty romesco sauce. To cut down the sauce saltiness and balance the dish, fat from the pork neck was brilliantly used. Next was the KING PRAWN TWIST-tomato and strawberry velvet which consisted ofmeaty large prawns that were drenched in floral and vegetal essence lingering sweetness. That was followed by JAPANESE WAGYU-bread, labneh of fine herbs; cubes of flavorful wagyu beef cooked medium rare set on top of crispy cracker covered with shaved parmesan. The pickled cucumber and the fermented yogurt had different types of pleasant sourness that mingled with other ingredients without overpowering them.
The meal continued withthe GAMBA TAILS- with saffron, celeriac and green peas. This consists of nicely cooked shrimp tails, accompanied by creamy celeriac, and infused with a wonderful sharp shrimp taste and aroma. MONKFISH LOIN-curry, chutney, asparagus and morels was a piece of tender monk fish covered in leafy vegetables and asparagus. The pair of curry and chutney dots on the plate added an extra flavor to the monkfish while the morels gave it a touch of nuttiness.
For the main course, the CHILDHOOD MEMORIES-Girona veal with fairy ring mushrooms was a scrumptious veal coated in thick lightly sweetened sauce, topped with vegetable gelatin, and almond crisp. The mushroom supplied a beautiful earthy element to the veal.
HOJICHA TEA-yuzu sorbet was the palate cleanser. The tea was served cold and had subtle citric acidity that was quite refreshing. It successfully removed any savory remnant left in the palate. The sweet courses began with the HONEY AND CUSTARD CHEESE-new concept jellatine honey sweet cheese, which was a cube of cheese custard enclosed in translucent gelatin honey. This had terrific layers of honey and creamy sweetness. The EL MARESME-roses and strawberries had an apparent sugary rose presence that was enticing. Finally, the main dessert, MISSIVE TO THE CLIENT-sakura, ginger, passion fruit had a mild sweetness combined with some bitterness, spiciness, and tartness. The mixture created an enjoyable dessert dish.
I was offered a choice to conclude at my table or at the court yard. Since this was a nice sunny day, I chose the latter. I was then given a tour of the kitchen before being led to my table outdoor where I was served the A CHOCOLATE PIG-lime and lemon amber, Jamaican pepper meringue, Amarula macaroon,raspberry marshmallow, coffee nougat sea water bonbon. In order to get to all the sweet stuff, the pig had to be broken with a reflex hammer. This was a playful way to end to this meal.
The tasting menu titled “30 Years of Santpolean Gastronomy” (a reflection Sant Pau’s three decades of history) was an impressive performance overall. It showed a high degree of cooking skills, and the ingredients used in every plate was superb. The modern Catalan cuisine that they served was light and compose of different flavors that were beautifully arrange. Their sauces not only worked as a complement but also added depth of flavors. The wine pairing for 59 EUR is considered a bargain, which featured wines from Catalonia, and consisted of ten glasses that were selected by the sommelier to enhance the taste in each course.
Wine Pairing:
San Pau staff were particularly attentive, accommodating and well informed. They explained each course in the tasting menu clearly and in detail. Mr. Balam had a welcoming attitude that was mirrored by the staff. He is the first to greet the guest as they arrive and his presence in the dining was significant. He took his time stopping by every table to chat with the guest more than once during the course of the meal.
With a tasting menu price at 189 EUR, Sant Pau is one the very few affordable three Michelin starred restaurant out there. But that price point did not diminish the quality of food it offers, and the dining experience it provided.
After my visit, news broke that Sant Pau will close in October 27th joining the like of Joel Robuchon in Singapore, Germany’s La Vie and Chihana (due to fire) in Kyoto as the other three Michelin starred establishments to cease operation this year. Chef Ruscalleda decided to focus on other projects, the restaurant will eventually morph in to a wine bar and will be run by her daughter. The impending closure is a great loss for the nations that prides itself for having world renowned restaurants. During its thirty years of existence, Sant Pau has gradually turned into one of the best in Spain, and made Chef Carme Ruscalleda a household name.
Hinata
810 Van Ness Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 829-8291 Website
Looking at the tasting menu restaurants in San Francisco, I find it to be expensive and even pricier than New York once tax and tip are added. I wanted a pocket-friendly multi-course dinner. I did a quick search on the web ended up with Hinata, a sushi restaurant that only offers omakase for the fairly decent price of $78.
Hinata was founded by a pair of sushi chefs who cut their skills at San Francisco’s local sushiyas, in the rapidly gentrifying neighborhood of The Tenderloin. The restaurant has a spacious layout with high ceilings and modestly designed interior. Guest can choose to dine at the twelve seats sushi counter or at one of their two top tables. There are only two seating available nightly and reservation are made through YELP. Adhering to the Japanese way of dining and punctuality, every guest are seated and served at the same time
The omakase began with four appetizer served simultaneously. Hokkaido tofu with ginger, wasabi and salmon roe; tofu from Hokkaido are some of the finest and its high quality is apparent in this dish. The texture is firm while also possessing a certain tenderness. Ice fish with wakame and cucumber has an interesting taste that is similar to crustacean, and Vinegar cured fresh Okinawa seaweed has a blend of sourness with a deep ocean element. The Seared Hokkaido scallop with miso aioli was a spoon of delicious luscious scallop flavored with miso aioli.
On to the nigiri’s, the first to arrive was the Kanpachi- amber jack, which has a nice buttery sweetness to it. Hirami-flounder has a mildness that was in perfect tune with the citric acidity from the yuzu. Next, the Hon Maguro-blue fin tuna was filled of delicious fattiness. In contrast, the Bincho-albacore tuna has leaner taste and texture. Tachiuo-belt fish was blow torched, slightly changing its quality as well as providing wonderful chard skin.
The Kasugodai-baby red snapper was tender and comes with a noticeable aroma of the sea. The Shima Aji-striped jack has very good clean subtle taste and the Umi masu-ocean trout features an oily content with a mild saltiness. Kinmedai-cherry wood smoked golden eye snapper was brilliantly infused with fruity smokiness.
Continuing on with Kamasu-Japanese barracuda, an inexpensive fish that is never used in any sushiyas in Japan. The barracuda was lightly seared, hardening the top layer while giving it a nice flavor. Negitoro-fatty blue fin tuna with pickled daikon is a delectable scraped tuna meat mixed with pickled daikon and wrapped in sea weed. That was followed by an excellent Chu toro- medium fatty blue fin tuna, which also marks the end of the sushi part of the omakase. I added a few more items such as the decadent O-toro-blue fin tuna underbelly which was extremely flavorful. The Ankimo-monk fish liver were thick cuts of creamy and velvety monk fish liver. The Shiriyaki-fresh water eel has a good bright sweet graininess, and the Uni-Maine sea urchin was fresh and buttery.
Tamago-organic egg custard with shrimp was delicate and has a profound shrimp taste and the Owan- Fish broth with red miso, nameko and mitsuba has sharp fish flavors mixed in with a distinct earthiness. Then, finally dessert; Black sesame ice cream. This ice cream is nutty with hints of bitterness, and not as sweet as I thought it would be which I actually enjoy.
In this omakase, the ingredients were seasonal and quality. Most of the fish and seafood are shipped directly from Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji Market while also utilizing local products. The sushi rice was nicely compacted together, and contain a wonderful amount of vinegar. Both rice and fish were able to perfectly come together.
Prior to starting the omakase, Chef Gavin Leung (the other half of the duo that opened Hinata) who was in-charged of my side of the counter introduced himself. He was engaging throughout the evening, and promoted communal vibe amongst guest. The service was nothing to complain about, the staff were great and gracious.
I was surprised at the price I paid at this restaurant. For $78 their omakase was a bargain considering the type of quality ingredients that were used, and the craftsmanship that it takes to prepare this type of a meal. Hinata is a place to indulge without putting a deep hole in the pocket.
Benu
22 Hawthorne St.
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 685-4860 Website
For more than a hundred years, the Michelin guide is hailed as the dining authority throughout Europe. In 2005, they expanded their reach and crossed the Atlantic to the United States in to New York City. A year later the San Francisco and the Bay Area edition was published bestowing its highest accolades to only one restaurant, Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Yountville. Unfortunately, San Francisco failed to impress the Michelin inspector. For eight long years it waited for a restaurant worthy of the third star, then finally in 2014 a pair of two stars was elevated to three.
Benu is one of the four restaurants with three stars currently in San Francisco. Its head chef and owner Korean born Corey Lee, is a product of Thomas Keller kitchen. He held the sous chef position at the French Laundry, and was one of the opening chef of Per Se in New York. His extensive resume included stints at Michelin starred establishment such as Guy Savoy in Paris, Pied a Terre, Pierre Koffman in London and Daniel in New York. He opened Benu in 2010 in the Financial District and immediately received two Michelin stars, and eventually attaining the third star in 2014. Along with Saison, they were the first in San Francisco to accomplish this feat.
The restaurant is tucked in a historic building accessible through a courtyard. Its kitchen are visible through large windows from Hawthorne Street. Benu’s main dining room has tall ceilings, soft lighting, and uncovered dark oak tables paired with thick padded chairs that are tightly spaced from each other. The interior is minimalist with plenty of black, white and dark gray colors. There is no bar or lounge, only a waiting area by the entrance. And directly behind the hostess desk is a smaller dining area that looks down on main dining room.
There was only one dining option at Benu, a tasting menu priced at $295. The meal started with “small delicacies” beginning with a Chinese specialty called the thousand year old quail egg which has a delightful cured saltiness. While its sauce provided a terrific rich element to it. Next was the oyster, pork belly kimchi served in warm and cold temperature with a tongue pleasing hint of kimchi fieriness. The marinated mussel stuffed with glass noodles has a sweetness that managed to fittingly blend with the mussel deep sea brininess.
A tart of buttery monkfish liver with trout roe and radish was next. Perfectly complementing the monkfish liver were the bitterness from the thinly slice radishes. That was followed by the prawn wrapped in jelly fish with comte sea weed, fresh off the fryer and served burning hot. The meaty prawn was tasty and the wrapping of jelly fish and seaweed added a beautiful crispy texture. Then came the blood sausage with squid and sesame leaf. By adding squid and sesame leaf, not only gave the homely blood sausage a certain refinement but also created an interesting mixture of flavors that works together.
Grilled chicken wing stuffed with abalone liver was marinated in soy sauce for a wonderful salty sweetness and the abalone liver stuffing was a pure joy. The shark fin pho with truffles and crab was not actually made with shark fin, instead the restaurant used Jinhua ham, crabs and other ingredients to replicate it,. The pho was prepared very well with a nice subtleness paired with sharp notes of truffle. Then came bread course, freshly baked sprouted grain bread served warm and accompanied with orange blossom honey infused ginseng butter.
First course, is the restaurant signature dish lobster coral xiao long bao with homemade soy sauce and vinegar. At first bite, the xiao long bao was oozing with tremendous amount of robust flavors, which is eventually followed by delectable filling of lobster roe. Dipping it in homemade soy sauce and vinegar adds a sublime mixture of salty and sour.
Next course came in threes and served all at once with a bowl of high quality white rice from Japan. The caviar with hand-pressed sesame oil, sesame leaf and daikon has a superb subtle salinity, the sea urchin marinated in fermented crab sauce, thinly sliced kohlrabi was full of buttery goodness and the lightly-cured mackerel, fresh ginger, sake lees pickles has an excellent clean pickle taste and light spiciness to it.
The meal continued with the barbecued quail, Chinese artichoke with red cabbage and black truffle sauce, double bouillon of quail with mountain yam. Whole barbecued quail was shown to the table before the server brought it back to the kitchen and prepared. The quail meat was tender, juicy, and nicely flavored with truffle sauce (that also worked well with the mountain yam on the plate). Served on the side, was an amazing steamed truffle bun with a delightful truffle cream. Another addition was the savory quail stock with mountain yam. In this course the kitchen resourcefully used the three main ingredients to create different dishes.
Beef rib braise in pear, daikon cooked in beef jus, scallion and chrysanthemum salad were the last of the savory plates. The scrumptious rib was superbly done with very good textures and flavors which was ascended by the pears sweetness.
The “Omija and olive oil” made from a Korean berry has a soothing bitterness that refreshes the palate. Dessert of Neufchatel cheesecake, dry-aged persimmon and cocoa nibs was a refined version of the cheese cake yet not as rich. Honeyed persimmon sauce with cocoa was cleverly use as a sweetener. Surprisingly, this was the only dessert in this particular evening. To end the meal were Shinko pear, sweet rice cake, a fantastic chilled rice tea and a toasted mint.
At Benu, the tasting menu of fourteen or so small courses were served in different paces. The “small delicacies” in the beginning were brought out in rapid succession while the other courses arrived in a slower manner. This was an impressive dinner that showcased highly technical cookery, and perfectly executed food with sophisticated Asian flavors. There were traditional Asian dishes that were brilliantly recreated and refined. Beverage pairing was designed by Master Sommelier, Yoon Ha (one of only two hundred fifty master sommelier in the world) priced at $210 and comprised of eight glasses of wines, beer and sake. It also include a pour of Blandy’s 1973 Verdelho retailed at $220. The pairing rightfully complements the different flavor elements of each dish.
Though the restaurant had a relaxing vibe, it still had the fine dining finesse and professionalism. Its young staff worked the dining room impeccably. They were well-trained, full of energy, and polite. Service was particularly attentive yet not overbearing. The chefs that also served the food were equally oriented and friendly as the servers.
Wine Pairing:
Dinner here is pricey and to many it’s a once in a life time experience. The complete meal with wine pairing plus tax and service charge makes Benu one of the most expensive restaurant in America. What justifies the high price tag is a dining experience that can be easily be the finest any one can ever have.
After leaving the confines of the French Laundry, Chef Lee became one of America’s top toque and flourished as a restaurateur. In addition to Benu, he also has the one Michelin star In Situ and the French bistro Monseiur Benjamin. All three restaurants were a success in their own rights. But his flagship Benu, is a special San Francisco dining destination and is among the preeminent restaurant currently in the country.
The Pass
807 Taft St.
Houston,TX 77019
(713) 628-9020 Website
In the last seven years Houston has continue to experience a culinary renaissance. Currently there is a plethora of restaurants helmed by talented chefs who have worked at some of finest kitchen in the country and abroad. These chefs brought their creativity for Houstonians to experience and enjoy. One such restaurant is The Pass, located in the Fourth Ward.
The Pass was conceived by chefs Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel Gardner as part of a two-concept restaurant under one roof called The Pass & Provision. The Pass is the fine dining part while the latter offers a la carte menu in a more relax setting. Both chef Gallivan and Siegel Gardner come from a strong cooking pedigree. Their experience includes stints at the kitchen of The Modern, Aquavit, Aureole and other notable New York City restaurants. On the same year the restaurant was opened, it was propelled to national prominence after Bon Appetite named it in their annual best new restaurant list occupying the number 6 spot.
Access to The Pass is through a thick easy to open metallic door located behind the hostess table in the front. Its softly-lit dining room has three rows of tables covered in neatly pressed cloth with dark sway cushy seats and carpeted floors. At the other end of the room is an open kitchen visible to the guest.
A five course tasting menu with an option to add three additional course is the only choice for dinner priced at $65. There is also a vegetarian version of the tasting menu available for the same price.
Dinner started immediately with the first course of Scallop Carpaccio- Grapefruit/Tobiko/Goat’s Milk. In this plate, chunks of lush scallops were drenched in delightful cream sauce of goat’s milk. The grapefruit’s sour acidity was smartly added not only to raise the flavor but also to serve as a balancer. I added an extra course of Foie Gras Torchon-Candied Vegetable Panettone/Orange. The torchonwas buttery and flavorsome. A zesty sweetness supplied by the orange jam went well with all those richness from the torchon, while the delicate panettone provided a terrific vessel.
Following the foie gras, was the Tuna Belly-Crispy Beef Tendon/Black Sesame Bearnaise, which comprised of, two pieces of beef tendon crisp withchopped raw tuna belly stacked on top of each other and dressed in thick berniase sauce. This was a complete dish that had terrific flavors. I noticed the tuna was particularly high in quality and especially fatty .Next was the vegetarian course, and it was just as equally well-done as the previous dish. The Smoked Potato caramelle -Chanterelle/ Parmesan, consisted of caramelle stuffed with wonderful smoked potato filling, garnished with thin slices of chanterelle mushroom and shaved parmesan. The puree that the caramelle sat on added a sharp earthy element to it.
For the main course the Duck-Leg Meat Currywurst/Crispy Potato/Radicchio Jam was served. Scrumptious cuts of duck meat were packed with flavors. Other components on this plate appropriately played its role such as the raddchio jam that when eaten with the duck, provides a pleasant bitterness. It was coupled by the tasty currywurst which offered an extra hearty serving of protein.
A pre dessert of frozen pina colada ball was refreshing to the palate. Dessert of poached pear- Marzipan/Dark Chocolate was rather heavy. It had a mixture of fruity and sugary sweetness that was kept at bay by the bitter taste of the dark chocolate mousse.
This was an unconventional meal that defies the norm of a tasting-menu-only restaurant. There was no bread offering, the amuse bouche in the beginning was missing and so is the petites four in the end. All that aside the cooking is inventive, and the food is thoughtfully crafted with wonderful mixture of different taste. Every component on the plate seams to coexist in harmony with each other.
In addition to the $55 wine pairing, the drink list which is shared by both The Pass and Provision is sizable. They also have an extensive whiskey collection.
As Houston celebratory restaurant, and with a dining room of well-heeled city dwellers, the staff at The Pass made sure that each guest was properly cared for. Our table of four was handled with a faultless service, and our servers were cordial and competent.
Dinner at The Pass is on the high side for Houston and less pricier than New York or The Bay Area. Adding the extra course and drinks, the total is close to a $120 per person, which is still reasonable considering the quality of food, service, and the dining experience each guest received.
When talking about a great gastronomic cities in the US, New York, San Francisco, and the Bay Area, Chicago is at the forefront of the conversation. However Houston Texas, with its terrific restaurant scene, is slowly becoming a contending culinary hub. The city still lacks the tasting menu places as there is only a handful of them. Helping to fill the void is The Pass. This restaurant is not only worth a visit when in the city, but it also raises Houston’s dining profile.
Ethos Gallery 51
905 1st Ave
New York, NY 10022
(212) 888-4060 Website
Situated in the corner of 51st and First Avenue, is a Greek restaurant that specializes in seafood and Mediterranean fare called, Ethos Gallery 51. With its close proximity to the United Nation headquarters, the restaurant is frequented by foreign dignitaries. The UN patrons are most likely to be found bustling in around the lunch hour.
Ethos Gallery 51 occupies a sizeable space on the ground floor of an apartment building. The restaurant interior is clean and bright. The dining room has exposed beam ceiling, and its walls, along with uncovered tables and chairs are all awash in whites. The floors on the other hand are made from weathered wood. For additional seating, the front part of the bar can accommodate several guests right by the entrance.
The lunch and dinner menu is extensive, and divided in different categories. For starters, the Keftedes-Traditional Greek Style Meatballs, Tomato Sauce was filled with comforting flavors. The Octapodi Sharas-Sushi Grade Mediterranean Grilled Octopus, Onions, Capers, Fava Purée, Lemon & Herbs was beautifully done. The octopus meat was tender with a nice charred texture. Fava puree and its creaminess were a wonderful complement. Providing the pleasant citric acidity to the octopus were the capers and lemon. Another good dish was the Patzaria-Roasted Beets Served with Skordalia Sauce, Extra Virgin Olive Oil. The roasted beets sweet earthiness went extremely well with the sauce distinct garlicky taste.
Entrée like the Lavraki-(Imported – Whole) “Bronzini” Lean White Fish, Mild Moist Tender Flakes and the Tsipoura – (Imported – Whole) Royal Dorado. Mediterranean Fish with a Mild Flavor and Firm Flakes were served as a whole and prepared in the simplest form. Both fish were seasoned with herbs and olive oil then skillfully grilled to allow their natural flavors to shine. Served as the perfect side to these dishes, was the tasty spinach rice. The Solomos-Grilled Scottish Salmon, Leek Rice Pilaf was a plate of a properly cooked fish. The salmon here was moist and extremely juicy.
Though the restaurant specializes in seafood, the kitchen did a fantastic job with the Arni Youvetsi-Baby Lamb Shank Oven-Baked with Orzo, Fresh Tomato Sauce and Feta Cheese. The lamb meat was extra tender. So much so that it gently comes off the bone. In this hearty dish, the tomato sauce provided the right amount of saltiness, while the orzo helps cut down the lamb’s fattiness.
At Ethos Gallery 51, my meals started with toasted bread and hummus spread that are so good that you can easily fill up if you’re not careful. The meal was sealed by a complimentary custard dessert at the end. The custard’s milky sweetness was particularly delightful.
The food at this restaurant is simple, light and pricey. But the $31 lunch prefix is a great value since it includes most items that are on the a la carte menu. The ingredients are fresh, especially the fish which are delivered daily and are displayed on ice in the restaurant for guest to see.
There are plenty of restaurant out there that specializes in seafood and justifies charging high prices but will leave you disappointed after a meal. Ethos Gallery 51 is not one of them. They are as good as advertised. They stand by their specialty and their execution of each meal reflects their expertise
