Asia – Page 2 – Rays Picks NYC

Pierre Gagnaire **

Pierre Gagnaire
at ANA Inetrcontinental Tokyo
36 Floor
1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato 1070052
Tokyo, Japan
+81 3-3505-1111
Official Site

In Tokyo, French is a cuisine that is well represented. Some may even argue that of the shear top quality of ingredients that Japan produces, French food is slightly better here than anywhere else; even in France! The crème de la crème of French chefs have set up restaurants in this city, like the super star chef Pierre Gagnaire, who’s been in Tokyo for quite some time now. He first opened Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo in Aoyama back in 2005, before closing it three years later. In 2010 after a two year hiatus he returned to Tokyo in partnership with the Intercontinental Hotel Group to open Pierre Gagnaire at the ANA Intercontinental hotel in Minato-ku. Immediately the restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars which it maintained ever since. Executive Chef Yosuke Akasaka leads the charge in this kitchen. He has worked with Pierre Gagnaire at his eponymous restaurant in Paris and was also the head chef at the old Tokyo location.

Occupying the 36^th floor of the hotel, Pierre Gagnaire offers a fantastic view of the city and Tokyo Tower through its massive windows. In the afternoon, the restaurant has plenty of natural lights while at night the bright lights of Tokyo serves as it’s the back drop. The spacious dining room has tables that were covered in neatly pressed linens, and they are distanced far apart enough from one another for a more intimate setting. Comfortable royal purple velvet chairs and curved banquets with tall back rest were paired with the tables. Wood panel walls adorned with beautiful artwork adds to the sophistication of the interior.

There are many set menu options in addition to the a la carte. On my visit I had the “Petit Esprit de Pierre Gagnaire” for YEN 22500, which consisted of five courses. A series of canapes started the meal, beginning with Roots vegetable soup:salpicon of Botan shrimps and lotus chips. This soup was rich with wonderful flavors of root vegetables. It also had a little sourness that was palpable. Sauerkraut in Espuma, red cabbage and apricot salad, cubes Gewurtzraminer was a cup of thick savory creaminess. Buried underneath, was the apricot salad bursting with a unique musky sweetness. Green brandade, petals of cod, thin slice of red/black radish was a salty dish, but with a nice light watery crunch coming from the radishes. It also offers a hint of bitterness that balanced out the salt. Chaud-Froid of chicken from Nagoyakochin perfumed with tarragon, salmon eggs and campari yogurt sauce, is a creation in which each tiny piece of chicken was carefully selected, as they are usually the finest and priciest in Japan. This type of chicken comes from Nagoya and is an epitome of what a bite of luxury taste like. To cleanse the palate, there was a refreshing citrus Champagne sorbet flavored with lime and frozen clementine.

Petit Esprit de Pierre Gagnaire:

The first course was the Abalone slice and poached in shellfish broth-Saffron braised turnips. Excellent tender chewy abalone had a terrific apparent marine taste. Next was the Brittany sole roasted in Sarawak pepper, small shrimp Shimaebi seared with Cognac Galette of Satoimo endive leaf. It had beautiful well rounded flavors with some spiciness. The sole has firm, yet soft textures. All the elements in the dish were in synch with each other.

For the main course I was served the Lamb Saddle cooked in crepine perfumed with marjolaine flower, cauliflower puree and black garlic, green lentil gnocchi. Scrumptious lamb meat was prepared with a lot of care and has plenty of flavors that were complimented greatly with other component on the plate such as the puree and the sauce.

Quelques dessert de Pierre-Gagnaire was a composition of different desserts served at the same time. This tantalizing platter was highlighted by the chocolate cake. The cake was rich, sweet with layers of different types of chocolate while the rest of the dessert was chilled, refreshing and fruity. The petit fours were enjoyable small bites of sweetness that ended this meal.

The “Petit Esprit de Pierre Gagnaire” was a superb tasting menu. A fusion of French cooking technique and high standard Japanese ingredients morphed together to create fascinating flavor profile. Both small and large plate exhibits focus and details. The servings were adequate that left me satisfied rather than full. There was no set wine pairing, but the wine list is vast and was made up of primarily French wine from different regions of the country. The restaurant also had a decent wine by the glass offerings that were reasonably price. Wanting red for this meal the sommelier recommendation of Bordeaux Pauillac was on point.

The restaurant is very formal but with Japanese sincere hospitality. The service was particularly attentive and faultless. English were spoken well that servers were able to explain each of the courses and answered my questions clearly.

In the Far East Pierre Gagnaire has a restaurant in Tokyo, Hong Kong and Seoul in addition to his others in Europe. It was said by those that had visited all three the Tokyo location is the better one. What separates it from the rest is the superior quality of ingredients that are being used, but also an extremely skilled chef in Chef Akasaka. The chef is very well capable in upholding Pierre Gagnaire cooking standard and mirrors the excellence of a living legend.

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Sushi Yoshitake ***

Sushi Yoshitake
3F, Suzuryu Bldg
8-7-19 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Tokyo, Japan
104-0061
+81 3-6253-7331
Official Site

Reserving a top sushi restaurant in Tokyo is a task in itself and some are just nearly impossible to get in. A lot of them require a concierge from the hotel where you’re staying to make the reservation and most of the time, using the same service provided by a premium credit card is not acceptable. For the three Michelin starred, Sushi Yoshitake in Ginza, there were no exceptions and I had to go through the same concierge process. Sushi Yoshitake is one of the only three sushiya in Tokyo to receive the maximum rating from the guide, and is regarded amongst the top sushi restaurants in Tokyo.

The restaurant received three stars in 2012 when it was first featured in the Michelin Guide. This was an incredible accomplishment by chef and owner Masahiro Yoshitake. Soon after, he opened a sister restaurant called Sushi Shikon in Hong Kong. Sushi Shikon debuted with two stars in 2013 and earned its third star just a year later. Having two restaurants dubbed with three Michelin stars simultaneously is a rare achievement for any chef. This is an honor that Chef Yoshitake shares with only a handful of other chefs in the world.

Sushi Yoshitake is on the third floor of a nondescript building on a side street. The place is small, clean and serene. It has a smooth natural finish counter made from a single slab of wood that only seats seven patrons. Behind the unique counter is where Chef Yoshitake does his magic along with his two other chefs. They wait patiently until all the guests on the reservation list arrive before they begin preparing for the meal. There is only one omakase choice for 24000 YEN. It is served daily for two evening seating; one at 6pm and the other at 9pm.

The omakase started with a series of appetizers that began with a seasonal Japanese delicacy of Steamed Egg Custard with Puffer Fish Soft Roe. Its eggy and custard features combined to create an interesting unique taste. Next was Today’s Sashimi, which were fresh cuts of rockfish. With the skin side charred it added some nice textures and burnt taste to the fish natural flavors. Then came the Tender Octopus, braised in sweet sauce, the octopus meat was firm yet so tender that it requires very minimal effort to breakdown. The sauce coated the octopus with color and sweetness.

Steamed Abalone, Liver Sauce was the restaurant’s signature dish. The steamed abalone had several good textures, but the highlight of this dish was the sauce from the abalone liver. I could only describe the creaminess as heavenly, it takes your palate into this wonderful experience of flavors. After finishing the abalone, the chef added sushi rice to what’s left of the sauce and I was instructed to mix them together. The mixture produces another divine savory aspect to the sauce, not to mention a whole new dish in itself.

I was then served Grilled Tilefish, perfectly grilled it was moist and tender while the skin was particularly crispy. Also on the plate was a half sliced Japanese lime, and by squeezing a few drops the mild taste of the tilefish is enhance. To follow was Steamed Clam with Sake and Canola Flower. Sliced clams soaked in sake and covered with green vegetables (similar to a broccoli stem) had a good subtle poise of bitterness and also a light floral oiliness. This was the last of the small dishes and marks the end of the first half of the omakase.

The sushi part of the omakase began with Ika – Squid, a fine piece of squid with smooth and chewy texture. Tai- Sea Bream followed after, its slightly sweet and delicate taste were well balanced. I was then served Yellow Tail which was completely off the menu. The flavors were absolutely delightful and just downright tantalizing.

Now the good stuff, Chu Toro-Medium Fatty Tuna, it had terrific equilibrium of delicious fattiness. O Toro-Fatty Tuna on the other hand just melts in your mouth.

Kohada-Gizzard Shad, though also rich as the previous pieces, it has an oily content with a compress taste. Akgai-Ark Shell, had a clean ocean presence as well as having a tiny sourness in to it. Kuruma Ebi- Prawn came after, poached in a way that gave the shrimp a nice density and tenderness. Uni-Sea Urchin was enormously buttery and delightful. Anago-Sea Eel, dashed with sweet soy sauces gives the eel’s grainy texture a wonderful sweetness.

Next was Tamaki- Tuna Hand Roll, crunchy seaweed stuffed with sushi rice and tuna. Chef Yoshitake used a lean tuna meat in this light yet satisfying roll. Tamago-Egg Custard was perfectly done with cotton like softness and a delicate taste of sweet eggs. To end the omakase was Owan-Today Soup which was a miso soup. This was a cloudier version infused with strong seafood flavors. Enticed after seeing other guest ordered an additional Maki Roll I too requested for one which Chef Yoshitake pleasantly obliged. He used similar cut of tuna with the one used in the “Tamaki” to make six filling pieces.

This omakase was nothing short of outstanding. The hot and cold plates were terrific. The abalone liver sauce was exquisite and one the best dishes I’ve ever had. The sushi was on another level of excellence. Every fish and seafood was extremely fresh and clean. The rice held tightly together and renders a fabulous sour vinegar taste, providing an umami explosion in the palate. I let Chef Yoshitake choose the sake for me as the restaurant offers a range of reasonably price bottles as well as pricier wines. He picked three kind of sake in different temperatures and came in different type of carafes. All three were on point and went very well in the stages of the omakase.

With only seven guests at a time, the staff were able to give us their undivided attention. The service was friendly and authentic. A young Japanese man dressed immaculately in two piece suit assisted the guests while Chef Yoshitake and two of his assistant interact and prepare the meal behind the counter. Chef Yoshitake spent time living in New York with his wife explaining the western friendly attitude towards foreigners at the restaurant. As the night went on, and the omakase coming to a close, the atmosphere became more relax and engaging. The few local diners that were left started a conversation with me and soon Chef Yoshitake joined in.

Chef Yoshitake performs all dining phases at the restaurant. He does the slicing, rice cooking and the sushi making. He only uses the finest seasonal ingredients available that he procures directly from his distributor rather than from the market. He serves Edomae style sushi that is less traditional compare to other top sushiya in Tokyo. His sushi preparation and cuts are precisely made to be a perfect marriage with the flavor profile of his rice. His curing methods provide an extra depth of taste. Even with another world class restaurant Chef Yoshitake can be found behind the counter at Sushi Yoshitake at any day of the week. He consistently maintains the standard of the restaurants to stay on top in a city full of great suhiyas.

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RyuGin ***

RyuGin
7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato
Tokyo, Japan
106 0032
+81 3-3423-8006
Official Site

It is the uncompromising standard of the Japanese culture of using only the finest ingredients in their culinary master pieces that has produced world renowned restaurants biggest names in the culinary world. Japan is booming with multitudes of up and coming places to wine and dine. Tokyo, the capital, is not only the gastronomic epicenter of the nation, but also in the world. The city has more Michelin stars than anywhere else on this planet, and holds the record with thirteen restaurants awarded the three-star status. One particular three star restaurant that piqued my interest was RyuGin in Roppongi.

The restaurant opened in 2003 by a very talented chef, Seiji Yamamoto, who previously spent eleven years at the ultra-traditional Aoyagi in Tokyo. RyuGin received two stars in 2009 from the Tokyo’s Michelin guides inaugural edition and then the third star in 2010 which it has maintained since. Regarded among the top dining destination the restaurant is constantly included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and in Asia’s 50 Best.

Japanese restaurants require guests to be on time when it comes to their reservation and many do not have a waiting area for those arriving early. RyuGin is different, when I arrived about ten minutes early I was escorted to a second floor waiting area, also known as their tea room. The cozy room had a live owl enclosed behind the bar. When my table was ready the hostess led me to a quiet dining room with no windows. The atmosphere was nothing short of serene. A thick black cloth covered the table and chairs with wooden backrests were surprisingly comfortable. The space is small, with only eighteen seats, and has a separate private room with its own sliding door. Like many Japanese three Michelin starred restaurants in Tokyo, this lacks the opulence interior that their western counterparts have. Only open during dinner service, RyuGin offers a keiseki menu at YEN 27000(a shorter version for YEN 21000 also available only after 9 pm).

“Beginning with a variety of Sensation. Seasonality, Aroma, Temperature, Texture and Assemblage” was the appetizer course which started the meal. It came in two parts, first was the Cod Milt, Turnip Yuzu. This bowl of Japanese delicacy had an interesting custard like texture. The milt’s richness was complemented well by the yuzu tea zest that serves as the broth. The second was a salad, Surf Clams, Assorted Vegetables and Dried Sea Cucumber. The mildness of the clams where fittingly mixed with wonderful vegetables. Dried sea cucumbers were added to give the dish some crunch.

The next course was “Longing for The Moment, Winter Story. Bathing Hotpot”Matsuba Crab and Seiko Crab. This was a flavorful hot pot with two delicious type of crab meat. Served on a separate plate was a crab claw with exposed meat, I was instructed by my server to dip it in the hot pot for the meat to absorb the crab infused broth. Extremely fresh bonito, red rock fish and squid sashimi makes up the “Sashimi: A Message from the Coast of Japan. Richness of the Sea, Tidal Current” Ocean Delicacy Displayed in 3 Plates. This seafood pleasure had an assortment of features, like the vibrant reddish meat of the bonito which has a unique taste while the red rock fish was full of beautiful fatty flavors. The squid on the other hand had a slight sweetness that went along with the rubbery textures.

That was followed by “Binchotan- A Powerful Scent of Charcoal grill” Grilled Sea Pech Seasoned with Assortment of Chilli Powder and Sprinkled Chestnut . The sea perch was grilled elegantly maintaining its delicateness. Chestnuts and other herbs not only gave the fish an additional crust, but also exuded an appealing fragrance. Giving this course a different aspect was shark fin fried tempura style with shiso leaf and uni, a terrific crispiness which had excellent flavors that included some slight herbal notes.

Then came “What’s inside once you open the lid… A sense of relaxation” “Goemon Tofu” “Sprinkled Chestnut”. The attributes were very much akin to tofu, but more refined and of greater quality. Chestnuts added texture and also provided the tofu its distinct sweetness.

The meal continued on with the “Grace of the Hometown as Ambassador of Kagawa’s Heritage” Famous Sanuki Olive Beef with small balls, a tribute to the prefecture of Kagawa, home to olives and high quality beef called sanuki that had been fed part of olives. This outstanding dish was prepared by smoking the beef in olives, giving the gorgeous meat an extra touch of smoky olive flavor. There was a side of olive salt which was interesting and quail eggs which was unexpectedly good when eaten with the beef.A rice dish towards the end followed by a soup was the typical order in a keiseki meal. It was combined in “The land of Rice plant. Pleasure of eating off the same trencher “New Rice”.Sea urchin Rice. National Flower of Japan “Chrysanthemum” Soup. Served on a round wooden tray was a rice bowl topped with decadent Hokkaido sea urchin and a bowl of miso soup. The soup had a clear and clean taste. For visual appeal and aesthetic, in the soup was a piece of tofu that was methodically cut in a shape of chrysanthemum, homage to Japan’s national flower.

Moving on, the pre desert course was a mouthful to read off the menu, but did not disappoint. The “Lusciousness. Coolness, Warmth, Playful Spirits, Nostalgia and Temptation” Sunshine Filtering through Foliage, Mandarin Sanshou definitely lived up to its name. On the plate was a perfectly peeled mandarin with black tea ice cream and sprinkled with sanshou. It has a nice contrast of spiciness and sour sweet the small cubes of Japanese cheese were spread throughout balancing the sweetness of the sauce made from wasanbon. This was a simple dish but with a lot of complexity. For dessert, Oryzae “National Fungus” Pride of Japan. Hot Sake and Cold Sake Sweet Flavors . An inventive method in creating a soufflé made from sake. The soufflé had an airy texture was served warm where the sake could be profoundly recognized, the same can be said about the ice cream. There was a good sweetness in both while also having a slight bitterness. Chef Yamamoto showcased the versatility of sake by using it as the main component of a sweet dish was a stroke of genius. Finally ending the meal was a fantastic bowl of matcha tea.

Every plate of each course in this kaiseki menu is chef’s Yamamoto reflection of the agricultural richness of Japan. The flavor profiles are strictly Japanese, subtle and minimalist but prepared with modern techniques. There was a high standard of cooking and creativity shown. The quality of ingredients is second to none as they only use the finest seasonal ingredients that were sourced locally and throughout Japan. From the food preparation to kitchenware all the way to the sequences of dishes that follows the traditional kaiseki there were many intricate details that were executed with precision. Accompanying beverage pairing, consisting of eight glasses of European wines and sakes were paired brilliantly. Each drink brought a different dimension of taste at the end of every bite.

WIne Pairing:

Throughout my meal I was served by an English speaking staff who also handled a large majority of foreign guests that were dining during my visit. Its Japanese counterpart was equally pleasant and tried their best to communicate at a rare time when they were the ones that brought my food. Service was focused yet at the same time approachable with a willingness to engage in quick conversation without taking too much of the guests time. On my way out I was handed a parting gift, a bottle containing water from Mount Fuji. Before reaching the exit Chef Yamamoto came out hurriedly to say his goodbye, thanking me and to see me out the door. The chef and the staff at RyuGin exemplify the humbleness of Japanese hospitality.

Many self-proclaimed amazing restaurants rely on their aesthetics for measure, but the great ones will always rely on the food they serve. Authentic gems such as New York’s Eleven Madison Park, Peru’s Central and Italy’s Osteria Francescana, all serve muti-course menus that tell tales of their roots. Chef Yamamoto’s creations are grounded by his culture, and yet his ability to embrace the modernity that surrounds him, and express this fusion into his ingredients, has garnered him many praises. His accomplishments throughout the years created a mini restaurant empire that includes the two Michelin starred Tenku RyuGin in Hong Kong and Syoun RyuGin in Taipei. His devotion still lies in Tokyo where he continues to run the kitchen. With a plethora of great places to eat in Tokyo it was very difficult to choose one, but without the journey of trying many other places, I wouldn’t have experience the magic of RyuGin. It has left an incredible impression on me, and will consider my dining experience there one of the most unique and unforgettable.

Amber **

Amber
At The Landmark Mandarin Oriental
15 Queen’s Road, Central
Hong Kong, China
+852 2132 0066
Official Site

In Hong Kong, Western fare, like French, has a strong presence and is as popular as their local Cantonese counterpart. The top cooking personalities from France such as Joel Robuchon, Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Ducasse have all setup locations in this city. The most famous French restaurant, and many believed to be the best in Hong Kong, is the The Landmark Madarin Oriental Hotel flagship restaurant Amber. In a twist of irony the restaurant was led not by a French chef but by a Dutch chef, Richard Ekkabus. He trained under Michelin starred chefs in the Netherlands and in Paris with Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Passard and Guy Savoy. Since 2005 Chef Ekkabus has been the hotel’s culinary director which oversees the restaurant and lounge. Under his guidance, Amber was awarded two Michelin stars in the guides inaugural edition in 2009 and has retained it ever since as well as being included in the San Pellegrino’s World’s 50 best restaurants and in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant list every year. Currently restaurants day to day operation is being handled by chef de cuisine Maxime Gilbert.

Amber’s weekend wine lunch was one of the best deals of any top restaurant out there. It consists of six-courses with wine pairing for 928 HKD. The meal began with a series of amuse bouche that primarily contained mushroom as one of the main ingredients starting with mushroom and egg custard with puer and mushroom tea. Served in a small cup was the fantastic custard below a strong savory tea. Then there was the mushroom macaroon with pumpkin puree in between and “beignet” which came in two. The macaroon’s noticeable mushroom appeal and the buttery filling of pumpkin purée made up a pleasing combination. The beignet also made with mushroom came with chips made from the pumpkin puree gave a different dimension to the same ingredients. These little snacks were made to wake up the appetite.

Hokkaido sea urchin-in a lobster jell-O with cauliflower, caviar, crispy seaweed waffles (260 HKD extra) was the first course and the restaurants signature dish. Its gelatinous texture had a strong attributes of the ocean. The caviar topping gave it a saltiness that made it a wonderful and luxurious dish. The seaweed waffles served on the side was a nice supplement especially when eaten together.

Next was the duck “au sang” legs and wild mushrooms pie, perigourdine sauce. The duck meat filling was flavorful and delectable while the puff pastry with its crunchiness was nicely done. The perigourdine sauce provided the strong earthy tones that worked accordingly with other components of the dish. The third and also the main course was the ‘aveyron’ lamb ribs braised in pinot noir, boulangere potatoes with taggiasche olives, tomato confit & mizuna leaves. Fatty lamb meat that fell off the bone and was braised in pinot noir was full of deep flavors. Beautifully cooked potatoes complemented the lamb and its sauce properly.

For the cheese course, french unpasteurized cheeses A chefs selection for the table to share matured by bernard antony, features five types of delicious cheeses with different textures and pungency. Moving on to the dessert, first to arrive was the pineapple confit, grilled millefeuille, ‘grand cru’ madagascar vanilla cream licorice, lime & yoghurt mousse, exotic fruit sorbet. It had plenty of fruitiness as well as was refreshing while also having a hint of citrus undertone. Dulcey chocolate crispy microwave cake & peanut butter ice cream followed after. It was sweet and rich in chocolate. The peanut butter ice cream provided the chilled nutty sweetness. Then finally some more sweets, petit-fours served on a can that consisted of white and dark chocolate ended the meal.

This was a well-executed contemporary French fare with many wonderful flavors. Numerous ingredients were successfully put together on the plate in a way that did not conflict with one another. The four glasses of wines from Europe and South America were accurately matched with each course as it brought out an extra taste at the end of every bite as well as providing a delicate balance.

Wine Pairing:

Amber’s dining room was designed by super star interior designer Adam Tihany whose works are seen in many of New York City’s great restaurants such as Per Se, Daniel, Le Cirque and Aureole. The room evokes luxury yet is understated with a brown color scheme of different types. The walls were handsomely finished mahogany wood, tall oversize vases with fresh flowers were carefully spread throughout. Its wide open space had tables close to each other but at the same time the sophisticated atmosphere kept the noise at a minimal. The center piece and the first thing that guests will notice once they enter the dining room is the chandeliers made of steel rod occupying the whole ceiling.

Service at Amber was extremely formal, at times the staff would break the stiffness to have a small chat here and there. The Matre’d did all the talking and was utterly friendly. He stopped by my table at the right timing ever so often without being overly invasive. They were very attentive and communication was never an issue, English was spoken and each course was explained clearly and my questions answered without hesitation.

Charging high prices the weekend wine lunch was a great way to try the food at Amber before shelling out serious cash. The regular price of the tasting is very expensive and so is the a la carte. The prices are on the same range as in many three Michelin starred restaurants in Europe and the U.S. But what you get for this six course tasting is well crafted food with a high level of cooking and an enjoyable dining experience. To many Amber is long overdue for a third star from the Michelin guide only time will tell. When I find my way back to Hong Kong I will definitely go full force at this restaurant.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a treatment prescribed to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In supplement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may turn on erectile dysfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other people even if their state appears to be the same as yours.

Lung King Heen ***

Lung King Heen
At The Four Seasons Hotel
8 Finance St, Central
Hong Kong, China
+852 3196 8888
Official Site

Similar to my home city of New York, Hong Kong has a diverse culinary scene. Restaurants that serve authentic Chinese cuisine from different regions of China are mixed in with western fare often located in small alley ways, inside hotels and, high end malls. Though there are many options that are readily available, Cantonese food still reigns supreme in Hong Kong. From high end to the retrospective hole in the wall, eateries at different price points are seen throughout the city. For fine dining the three Michelin star Lung King Heen in the Four Season Hotel is considered the apex of the bunch.

Lung King Heen’s kitchen is under the guidance of chef de cuisine Chan Yan-tak who was convinced by the Four Season to come out from retirement. His contemporary Cantonese style cooking at this restaurant has won him many accolades. He was the first Chinese chef to receive the maximum rating from the Michelin guide and Lung King Heen has the distinction as the first three Michelin starred Chinese restaurant in the world which it had presently retained since 2009. It was also ranked among the top dining venues in Asia according to the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant list.

Perched on the fourth floor of the hotel, the name of the restaurant is translated in English to “view of dragon” and offers an unobstructed view of the Victoria Harbor from its large windows. The Asian themed dining room is spacious and can seat more than a hundred guests at a time. Its subtle interior is designed with low ceilings made from wavy silver plates, plenty of dark wood finish, and tables that were close to one another are covered in whites.

The menu is expansive with many varieties, typical of a Chinese restaurant. There are two tasting menus available for dinner and set menus for lunch. To get the experience of Chef Yan-tak cooking on my visit I elected for the “Chef Tasting Menu” for 1880 HKD ($230). An amuse of Crispy Scallop with Fresh Pear and Yunnan Ham to start. Gone in one bite, this deep fried ball has a burst of interesting flavors, creating a terrific intro to the tasting menu.

Chef Tasting Menu:

The first course was a delightful trio of goodness, Lung King Heen Appetiser Combination (Crispy Suckling Pig, Barbecued Pork with Honey, and Roast Goose with Plum Sauce). Each had a different kind of crunchiness as well as having diverse types of tenderness. Next was the Sweet Corn Soup with Lobster and Minced Chicken, this had a well acquainted character to the palate but was far superior. The soup with its thick starchiness and tasty minced chicken that was mixed in with lobster meat provided a distinct context. Simmered King Prawn with Seafood Sauce was next. A large piece of prawn bathed in rich seafood sauce which sat on top of green leafy vegetables was a hearty sea food offering.

I was then served the Braised Abalone with Star Garoupa Rolls in Supreme Oyster Sauce. It had a beautiful combination of contrasting textures of the chewiness from the braised abalones and softness from the steamed garoupas. The “supreme” oyster sauce provided profound saltiness while the stem of broccoli offered bitterness as well as another aspect to the dish. The meal proceeded with the Wok-Fried Superior Australian Wagyu Beef Cubes with Morel Mushrooms and Bell Peppers, superb Wagyu beef was immensely tender and had scrumptious flavors. As a complement, the beef was cooked with fresh vegetables, bell peppers, and morel mushroom. The Shredded Chicken and Vegetable Dumpling in Superior Pottage followed after. Sunken in pottage was a hefty piece of dumpling with a delightful filling of chicken and vegetables. The thick pottage was wonderful and savory.

For dessert I was served Ginger Soup with Sweet Potato and Glutinous Rice Dumplings, a syrupy soup that was a little filling. It yielded an extra bit of sweetness from the sweet potatoes while the rice dumplings absorbed the sugary character of the ginger soup. Finishing the tasting was fruit gelatin and biscuit made from rice, both were not too sweet which was perfect after having the the previous dessert.

To sit over a hundred guest for both lunch and dinner and to continuously produce high quality food is unreal. There will be misses but on this particular dinner the restaurant did not falter. Though lacking the “blew me away” factor in the “Chef Tasting Menu” it was still a very good meal. The cooking is restrained with many familiar taste profiles that were elevated by the sheer quality of ingredients used. The dishes were refined and were plated with sophistication, keeping the appeal to western palate without alienating the locals. I added the wine paring with this tasting for an additional 600 HKD ($77) considering the fact that wine mark up in Hong Kong is exuberant this wasn’t badly priced. The sommelier was able to curate European wines that properly matched with the cuisine.

Being a restaurant in a hotel chain with global presence the service was geared toward foreign clientele. The dining room was fully occupied with an even number of locals and westerners. With so many tables, Lung King Heen employs enough staff to keep the high standard of service. The different servers that I had were particularly engaging. They would pass by every so often at my table without disrupting my meal but was fully aware if I needed any assistance.

Wine Pairing:

It was both novelty and wanting to try an authentic high end Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong that led me to Lung King Heen. Prior to coming here, my expectations were very high and were achieved in the end. This restaurant can very well be the measuring stick for Chinese haute cuisine.

There are less than 120 restaurants with three Michelin stars worldwide. Attaining one it takes a lot of consistency to produce the highest quality service on a daily basis. In Hong Kong it was believed to be that the guide’s criteria is a lot less rigorous than Europe, Japan and even in the United States. So when Lung King Heen was awarded three stars it was debated and criticized. Many had liked it as well as disliked. If basing it on as a Chinese restaurant the food was very good and the service was flawless but the question still remains if this restaurant is “worth a special journey”. Well I believe it depends on the individual to decide.

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L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon ***

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
at The Landmark Atrium
15 Queen’s Road, Central
Hong Kong, China
+852 2166 9000
Official Site

Chef of the century Joel Robuchon has the most Michelin stars than any chef in the world and shares a distinction to only a handful of chefs to have more than one three Michelin starred venues at the same time. He has built a culinary empire that stretches continents and his L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon has branches in major cities such as Paris, London, Tokyo and previously New York (closed in 2010) with all being awarded multiple Michelin stars. The Hong Kong location on the other hand is the only of the L’Ateliers to receive the maximum ranking from the Michelin guide as well as being rank in the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. After missing out in Paris last year and not able to visit the New York City location before it closed, I made sure to try this one when I visited Hong Kong this year.

Like many of Hong Kong’s top restaurants, which are housed inside the malls or hotels, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon is situated on the fourth floor of The Landmark, one of the city’s most luxurious malls. As I emerged from the escalator to the restaurant a beautiful hostess welcomed my arrival. She then led me through a walkway with walls of wine racks enclosed in glass and into the hushed dining room. Dominating the room is a counter with three even sides surrounding the open kitchen. A glossy, dark cherry wood counter top with deep red high chairs, polished black flooring and dimmed lighting gave the interior certain sexiness. Behind the counter I was treated by French born Chef de cuisine David Alves cooking, a veteran of the L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon chain. Prior to settling in Hong Kong he was at the Etoile branch in Paris.

Foregoing my normal practice of always requesting for the tasting menu, on this evening I had the a la carte as per server recommendation. There are more interesting items in the a la carte which has a price range of around 290 HKD per plate, pretty pricey but so is everything else in Hong Kong when it come to this types of restaurant. So to start, was the heralded bread basket with multiple kinds of freshly baked bread. There was a lot of effort put for just the bread but it’s also a good sign that this will be a beautiful evening. For canapé I was served a fried quinoa ball with a small cup of parmigian cheese foam and foie-gras. It was followed by the L’OURSIN-Sea urchin in a lobster jelly, topped with cauliflower cream. Served in cold temperature, it had an essence of the deep sea. This dish had different layers of contrasting flavors that worked accordingly together while the chilled gelatin texture was soothing to the tongue. The LA LANGOUSTINE – Crispy langoustine papillote with basil was next. Covered in a thin crispy batter, the langoustine was complemented beautifully with a bright peppery sauce made from basil.

Continuing the meal was the LE FOIE GRAS Pan-fried duck foie gras with mango, coriander and crispy peanut chips. The foie-gras outer layer had an excellent fried crust with sprinkled peanut chips on top, for extra texture. On the other hand, the mango purée on the plate seemed out of place but it was added appropriately to give a fruity component that went well with the buttery foie-gras. I was then served the LA SAINT-JACQUES – Hokkaido scallop with green curry and coriandre sauce, squid ink farfalle. A large piece of scallop with dense flavors and topped with squid ink pasta for a facet of saltiness. The sauce gives the scallop a lovely piquancy. The following dish was LE RIZ – Risotto style rice with pimientos and vegetable couscous. A dish with a saturated yellow color was a different type of risotto that is savory and pleasing. It had an even creaminess while the garnish of vegetables exuded a beautiful aroma.

LE BLACK – Black cod with Malabar black pepper sauce, Chinese cabbage and coconut emulsion, was a delicate piece of cod with a terrific balance of both sweet and spicy. The coconut emulsion was brilliantly added to provide an extra dimension to the dish. LE BŒUF Braised Wagyu beef cheek with miso, seasonal baby vegetables was served as the main course. This was a sumptuous braised beef cheek covered in thick sauce packed of flavor. As a supplement to this delicious dish was the famous Robuchon mashed potato served in a small pot. The mashed potato was a fine smooth texture with refined taste. I regretfully decided to skip dessert but the magrindanaise were good enough for a sweet finish.

In the beginning of the meal my server informed me that he would arrange the order of dishes in a way that it would not complicate my palate. At the end, each plate was timed perfectly in between and the succession of taste was in harmony one after the other. The cooking was skillful, especially when incorporating Asian ingredients to provide extra depth of flavors and aromas. There was a lot of emphasis on the sauces to compliment the ingredients on the plate and not to overpower them.

The restaurants award winning wine list is vast and can be overwhelming. Letting the sommelier choose the appropriate wines will be a wise thing to do. For white I was recommended the Château Musar, Lebanon 1999 for HKD 190 ($24), it was paired properly with the fish and seafood dishes. And for the wagyu cheeks and foie gras I had a glass of red Cabernet Sauvignon, Janzen Estate, Napa Valley, U.S.A 2006 for HKD 235 ($30). Wine mark up in Hong Kong is over the top but it was worth it for this meal.

The atmosphere at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon was relaxed and interactive, which the restaurant encourages between the staff and guests. Service was formal yet approachable. The staff was knowledgeable and had a genuine sense that they wanted the guest to not only enjoy the food but also the service that they provided. For those that prefer the traditional sit down dining there is the Le Jardin on the same premise, located towards the back. It offers the same menu as the L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon but with a more formal setting.

Chef Robuchon sets a standard that is met and maintained by all of his restaurants. With the L’Atelier, each location has identical offerings and atmosphere. When the Michelin guide awarded this restaurant its third star in 2011 (making it the only of the L’Ateliers with such honor) while the rest only have one or two it was surrounded with controversy. Even the two original posts in Tokyo and Paris only managed to secure two stars and many have stated that they were superior to this. Although this was my first visit at any of the L’Atelier or any of Chef Robuchon restaurants I believe that no two restaurants are alike. They might have similarities but there is always something different about them. But as far as my visit goes at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Hong Kong, I was impressed with the cooking and the impeccable service as well as having a superb dining experience.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a therapy set to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you must ask your pharmacist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In supplement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are mostly able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may turn on erectile disfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other folk even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.

Tim Ho Wan (Sham Shui Po) *

Tim Ho Wan Sham Shui Po
9-11 Fuk Wing Stree
Hong Kong, China
+852 2132 0066

In the world of gastronomy receiving the Michelin stars usually equate to higher prices, Hong Kong’s Tim Ho Wan is an exception. This dim sum restaurant has the distinction as the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world. Opened in 2009 by Mak Kwai-pui, a former chef of the three Michelin starred Lung King Heen, it has since expanded throughout Hong Kong and throughout the Far East as well as in Sydney, Australia. Its original location in Mong Kok had closed down a few years ago due to rising rent prices and relocated to another part of Hong Kong. There are currently two branches with a star, the North Point and Sham Siu Po, and since the latter was the oldest it was the one that I chose to visit.

Armed with two other companions we arrived for a late lunch on Sunday afternoon. There was still a large crowd of locals and tourist waiting for their number to be called. We waited for about twenty minutes before we were seated. The place was noisy and every table occupied. There’s nothing special with the décor of the restaurant, just plain wood tables and chairs making, New York City Chinatown’s Golden Unicorn and Jin Fong high end in comparison.

Unlike the places in New York City, where the food carts are being pushed around, here you fill up a paper menu, check what you want to order then you give it your server. One by one small plates of goodness start to flow. Steamed chicken feet with black bean sauce, an all-time great at a dim sum place, gelatinous chicken feet doused in black bean sauce had tremendous flavor. Steamed rice with meat & dry cuttle fish had a creaminess to it. The rice was covered in savory meat and cuttle fish. It was hearty and definitely filling. Poached fresh seasonal vegetables where the Chinese cabbage still retained the leafy aspect. Steamed dumplings in chu chow style had a filling that was a mixture of shrimp and fresh vegetables which made for a chewy dumplings.

The steamed egg cake had a delicate and puffy texture as each bite left my palate wanting more. Steamed chicken with mushroom where the chicken meat was so tender that it fell right of the bone. Steamed with mushroom, peppers and garlic it infused beautiful flavor in the chicken. Nicely done pan-fried beef buns filled with satay paste had a wonderful fried crusty middle. Its beef stuffing marinated in satay paste was deliciously sweet yet savory. Steamed beef balls with bean curd skin, compact juicy beef balls oozed with oily goodness. A dish that makes a normal appearance at almost every dim sum restaurant in New York City, Vermicelli roll stuffed with shrimp. At Tim Ho Wan the vermicelli was a little thick but worked well in absorbing the soy sauces provided. There’s also the Cantonese classic, Pan-fried turnip cake, a crunchy outer layer while soft in the inside. This was a pleasant and modest dish.

We were satisfied at the end that we decided to forgo dessert. My companion and I were all in agreement and enjoyed our meal. Out total damaged was about 250 HKD including tax and 10 percent service charge (about $32) for ten shared dishes and just tea to drink. This was an excellent value for your money.

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At Tim Ho Wan don’t expect Michelin starred service, the staff is efficient and direct but not rude. There were times that a server had to yell out to the guest for their orders as the rooms got extremely noisy. Our meal was quick but we did not feel rushed at all since the food started coming out soon after we ordered. We gave ourselves enough time to help digest but at the same time we were not inconsiderate of those waiting for tables.

Tim Ho Wan is a humble restaurant that serves authentic dim sum. The food is simple, focusing more on taste than presentation, When the Michelin guide awarded this restaurant a star it caused a shockwave to the restaurant world. There was backlash from pundits and food enthusiast alike and the credibility of the guide was questioned. In a city with a myriad of dim sum restaurants was Tim Ho Wan the only one that the Michelin inspector thought worthy of the star? I’m pretty sure there is a lot more deserving but if based on the criteria of a one star “a very good restaurant in its category”, Tim Ho Wan is a very a good dim sum restaurant.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be elaborate. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a treatment prescribed to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you must ask your druggist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are as a rule able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may switch on erectile malfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other humanity even if their state appears to be the same as yours.