France – Rays Picks NYC

Restaurant A.T.

Restaurant A.T.
4 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine
75005 Paris,France
+33 1 56 81 94 08
Official Site

Guides like the Michelin and Gault Millau are a good way to choose a place to dine especially in a city like Paris. In this instance Restaurant A.T. is nowhere listed in those guides, it was from The Forbes magazine where I learned about this restaurant when it published an article “The 12 coolest places to eat in 2015”. Japanese born chef and owner Atsushi Tanaka previously cooked at Quique Dacosta in Spain and De Pastorale in Belgium but working with Pierre Gagnaire at his Parisian three Michelin starred restaurant is what laid the foundation to Chef Tanaka’s restaurant, Restaurant A.T.

Restaurant A.T. opened last year in the Left Bank close to the Notre Dame Cathedral. Its humble store front and décor defines simplicity. Bright ceiling lights are assisted by clean white walls and stone ash wood flooring to brighten up the dining room. The fixtures of assorted heavy tables with table tops that are either made of concrete or black rubber, and steel chairs with black leather cushions seemingly built for an office space rather than a restaurant add sleekness to the interior.

There were different set menus for lunch while in the evening there’s only the tasting menu that consist of twelve courses for EUR 85(at the time of my visit but has since increase to EUR 95) which I requested. The first to arrive was a charcoal chip served on a bed of rocks, it was quite crunchy with a fascinating burnt taste. Leeks sautéed in brown butter was next. The leeks with the toasted nuttiness of the brown butter was interesting. Following the leeks was parsnip cake, a creative dish, using a root vegetable that had a hint of sweetness along with an undertone of bitterness.

Tasting Menu:

Afterwards a combination of sea food and animal proteins arrived. Kicking it off was a lovely piece of oyster drowned in a pungent citrusy light sauce made of kalamansi (a small citric fruit found in the Philippines) that was counteracted by the harshness of the kholabari creating a balanced dish. Then there was a wonderful bowl of veal tongue with thinly sliced radish, mushroom, and green leafy vegetables. Its subtle broth was infused with vegetables and absorbed by the juicy pieces of veal tongue. The next course, Artic char, had a robust essence and the chips covering it, made from juniper and parsley, created a very good dish.

To continue was an excellent marinated beef that was nearly raw and served with Jerusalem artichoke and hay. This was a savory dish where the scrumptious beef had plenty of flavor. I was then served whelk, also known as sea snails, with salsify chips on top. It had a nice briny sweetness that went perfectly with its light and tangy consume.

A lovely piece of Hake drowned in cockles broth was next. The broth had a strong deep sea taste combined with the clean tasting Hake meat. For added texture was dehydrated oca plants leaves. Beautifully prepared and tender pieces of lamb meat with rosemary and turnips was the final course before dessert.

Dessert courses consisted of raspberry with beet root and timut pepper, although not as sweet as I thought it would be, the combination of berry fruitiness and lemon added a slight soily texture. The chocolate and lavender with its sweet chocolaty and distinct floral aroma rounded the tasting in a wonderful way.

With this tasting I decided to go with the wine pairing for EUR 55. There were seven glasses all together that consisted of French wine and a single Scandinavian beer. Arranged by Sommelier Thibault Simon (formerly of Michelin starred Agape Substance) they were paired perfectly with each course and provided an extra jolt to the palate.

Wine Pairing:

Chef Tanaka prepared a very good meal with wonderful creativity that matched its refined flavors. His cuisine is neither French nor Japanese and the ingredients that he uses are international. He manipulates textures and taste that is similar to the molecular gastronomy style of cooking while his plating depicts modern artistry.

Service was competent starting when I arrived at the restaurant. I was greeted pleasantly by the staff in their uniform gray shirt and black apron and through my time at Restaurant A.T. they were attentive and engaging. Chef Tanaka served some of the courses himself to my table and even found time to chat on a busy evening during and after my meal.

With so many dining choices in Paris there tends to be a number of restaurants that are often overlooked, but as the dining scene changes more Parisian chefs are steering away from classic cooking to new and more experimental methods. Underrated Restaurant AT will get its recognition in due time, especially with a chef in the kitchen that has a strong pedigree and cooks some of the most creative cuisine in Paris.

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L’Arpege***

L’Arpege
84 Rue de Varenne
75007 Paris, France
+33 1 47 05 09 06
Official Site

So many chefs these days have been focusing more on vegetables as the main attraction at their restaurants, even the great Alain Ducasse made a splash last year when he decided to concentrate more on vegetables and fish after refurbishing his namesake Alain Ducasse Au Plaza Athenee in Paris. But way before Chef Ducasse and others made the transition Chef Alain Passard was one of the first big name chefs that entered the movement when he removed all animal protein from his menu at his critically acclaimed three Michelin starred restaurant, L’Arpege in 2002 (though animal protein has returned but to a minimal). Such a risky move for an established chef who’s had three stars under his belt since 1996.

Chef Passard purchased L’Arpege from his mentor, Alain Senderens, back in 1986 and at that time it was named L’Archestrate (where he also spent time in its kitchen) before he renamed and renovated it. The calm dining room is small with a simple interior. Its clean white walls are covered in blond wood panels with silver plated artwork, low ceilings, tables sparsely spaced and paired with beige leather padding chairs in shiny metallic frames. The restaurants cellar, an enclosed space with exposed bricks, is also used for extra dining space.

L’Arpege has an a la carte offering, a EUR 240 vegetable tasting, and a EUR 340 dinner tasting, although pricey, it’s on par with Paris standards. For lunch there is a EUR 140 tasting, a bargain for this type of restaurant and which I selected. Just like my previous meal at Chef Passard’s mentee Pascol Barbot in L’Astrance, the kitchen creates what is available on that day.

Lunch Tasting:

The lunch tasting began with a tiny snack of carrots with garlic puffs which was finished in one quick bite. Then a trio of nicely done mousses in individual teaspoons of carrot mustard, parsnip with coriander, and Parmesan with coriander was served. Next to come was a beet root sushi with mustard bay leaves. Made with thinly a sliced beet that was a substitute for tuna on top of tightly squeezed rice, to replicate a sushi, displayed the creativity of the chef.

Afterwards, I was served a salad from the garden. The vibrant leafy green vegetables were extremely fresh. It was garnished with shaved Parmesan cheese and walnuts for added texture while a dressing gave the right amount of acidity. For such a simple dish it was very good. Vegetable ravioli was next, which consisted of three pieces of ravioli stuffed with vegetable puree and drowned in warm vegetable broth with beet shoots and carrots juice. The ravioli stuffing had a wonderful veggie flavor to go along with an earthy aromatic broth.

Gratin with Parmesan cheese, peppers, and grapefruit was the following course. Made with potatoes and onions, the gratin had a nice crunchiness that combined perfectly with the pungency of the Parmesan cheese while also having a slight citrusy zest. This was then followed with a beet root tartare served with potato chips. A fascinating, yet refreshing root flavors that married with an intense bitterness of the horseradish cream. A well thought out dish where the genius of Chef Passard replicating a steak tartare that turned into a vegan delight.

A lone meat dish on the tasting menu was the heart and liver of duck tapenade on puff pastry with a side of green salad. The offal meat sliced in small cubes was cooked wonderfully, but at this time I was already enjoying the vegetarian spectacle that the animal protein was an afterthought. Never the less this was still a lovely savory dish. Now back to the vegetables. For the next course, colorful garden fresh vegetables with just a splash of olive oil and sprinkling of couscous giving it an added element.

An array of sweet courses began with honey onion and mint caramel custard served with fragrant star anise ice cream on the side to cool off the palate. A delightful plate of assorted pastry and sweets came as an intermission prior to serving the rest of the dessert. It then proceeded with a Paris-Brest, a firm pastry sandwiching a cream that is slightly rich and sugary. To end the meal were two kinds of chocolate confection, a mousse and a chocolate Napoleon, which was layered in different types of chocolate.

This was a sublime meal especially for the price I paid. The food served was light and healthy; the vegetables that were used were extremely fresh and of high quality. They are transported daily from Chef Passard’s own farm where he personally picks them. As a master craftsman who has a special relationship with vegetables, Chef Passard allows their natural flavors to shine without doing too much to them while arranging them on the plate with perfect combination. Also, in this tasting Chef Passard was able to use an ingredient more than once (as many of top restaurants do not do this) and used them well, adding a different dimension each time.

Unfortunately, there was no pre-set wine pairing available for this tasting but the restaurant did have an excellent list of wines available by the glass. With the help of the sommelier, the red and white wines from Medoc and Alsace region that were picked went well with my courses while also recommending a beautiful champagne as a welcome pour.

At L’Arpege, service was precise and formal to a degree, but was also adjustable to the type of guests that they serve. The staff was a mixture of young and seasoned veterans and handled the dining room with ease. After service, when the guests (or what’s left of them) are served their final dish the maestro himself emerged into the dining room. Mingling, stopping by every table, and even having coffee with guests or posing for pictures and waving goodbyes. A humble gesture from a chef with all his accolades.

Throughout the years Michelin starred chefs like, Pascol Barbot, Mauro Colagreco, and David Toutain, as well as countless more, have passed through the kitchen of L’Arpege. Chef Passard is one of the most influential individuals in gastronomy. He was a head of his time and an innovator willing to challenge himself and succeed. When he transitioned to a veggie-centric menu, his credibility did not suffer a single bit and L’Arpege has been constantly voted as one of the best restaurants in the world. It is continuously five toques from the Gault & Millau and has maintained three Michelin stars, including in the most current edition of the guide.

As well-known as Chef Passard is, on the same league with the Ducasse’s, the Robuchon’s, and the Gagnaire’s, he doesn’t have a global empire. He only owns one restaurant and can still be seen behind the stoves on the grind with his cooks and staff. His sole focus at L’Arpege is to create a dining experience that transcends vegetables to another level and where guests will have a better appreciation of the ingredients that are often overlooked on the plate. To charge EUR 240 without any animal protein, the food has to be out of this world and though I had the lunch tasting for a lot less, I can see why Chef Passard and his restaurant is highly regarded. This is a place for a gastro pilgrimage that both vegetarian and meat eaters will adore.

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L’Astrance ***

L’Astrance
4 Rue Beethoven
75116 Paris, France
+33 1 40 50 84 40
Official Website

With ninety-four Michelin starred restaurants scattered throughout Paris to go along with a large number of quality bistros, brasseries, and wine bars, it is easy to say that Parisians takes their food and wine seriously. Fine dining is in abundance and as the epicenter and the originator of haute cuisine, the city has 9 three Michelin starred restaurants, more than any other city in the world outside of Tokyo. One of its top restaurants, L’Astrance in the 16th arrondissement which serves creative French fare with global emphasis, is high on travelling epicureans list to visit while in Paris. Led by Chef Pascal Barbot and Maitre d’ Christophe Rohat, the restaurant has had three stars since 2007 and continuously appears in the San Pelligrino’s The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Chef Barbot worked under Alain Passard at Arpege where he and Christophe met (who was responsible for the front of the house). Upon his departure, Chef Barbot was the head chef and the right hand man of Chef Passard. He travelled the globe to cook before reconnecting with Christophe in 2000 to open L’Astrance. The restaurant was well received and quickly ascended to the top after being awarded a Michelin star in 2001 after just a few months of opening. Four years later it received the second one and finally the third in 2007. Not only was this one of the very best that Paris had to offer but it is also one of the toughest tables to score. Opened from Tuesday to Friday, L’Astrance is only able to accept a maximum of twenty-five diners per service. With the time difference between Paris and New York, using a concierge came in handy especially if it required waking up in the wee hours of the morning to call the restaurant for an available table.

L’Astrance is tucked in a quiet residential street near by the banks of the River Sienne directly across from the Eiffel Tower. Its store front glass windows are covered in wooden sticks bundled at the stems. Upon entering, there is an aged old wooden bar in the front for the sommelier to do his tasting before serving each glass of wine. The interior is designed with high ceilings, dark marble floorings, and grey walls with oversized mirrors hanging. Plush lemon leather covered seats and benches are paired with tables that are tight knit within each other. Its lofty layout provided additional seating in the balcony accessible by spiral stairs.

All of L’Astrance menu is listed as a surprise, there are no itemized listing nor a la carte. The EUR 70 prix fixe, EUR 120 five courses for lunch, and “Menu Astrance” their EUR 230 tasting menu, the only option for dinner. The “Menu Astrance” was my choice on my visit and by Parisian standard it is the most economical multi-course meal compared to others of the same level.

Menu Astrance:

A pair of tasty bite sized crispy short bread and mushroom wafers started my culinary voyage to the unknown. The first course called Paris tart is one of Chef Barbot’s signature dishes. Layers of foie gras, thinly sliced mushroom and apple stacked on top of each other was a handsome assortment of buttery, earthy, and sweet elements that was complemented with roasted lemon puree and hazelnut oil. The next course was Oyster from Brittany with scallops and bone marrow. It had a defined flavor of the deep sea and along with the bone marrow, which provided another dimension, this was an interesting blend that the kitchen pulled off excellently. An additional crispy roll with ginger mint and vegetable filling was served on the side as a supplement completing a sublime dish.

For the third course a beautiful piece of sea bass sitting on top of risotto cooked in cauliflower. The bass had a firm texture and clean taste, while the bergamot gave it added zest. The touch of saffron for a little spice and the intensity of the goat cheese helped to even all the flavors. Parmigiana cream with celery and black truffles followed after. Plated to resemble a yin and yang design, the celery puree, thickened with parmigiana, created a cream with strong flavors. On the other hand the pungency of truffle gave this dish an even contrast of two different tastes that got along flawlessly.

The meal continued on with a “Guinea fowl”. Cooked superbly, the texture was extremely tender and flavorful. Parmesan cream gave some richness and the mushroom sauce added flavors that married well with the fowl meat. Miso caramel chips were served alongside this fine dish. Next was roasted duck with cabbage, duck sauce and condiments of olives and coffees. The duck was roasted to perfection the meat was soft and scrumptious. There was a hint of saltiness from the sauce and olives that could have been overpowering but was neutralized by incorporating the coffee for a slight bitterness as a balancer to this amazing dish. Served along with it was a bowl of vivid fresh salad covering a delectable duck liver toast buried beneath.

Moving on from the savory and to clear the palate was a refreshing sorbet with a touch of chili and ginger. Chocolate tart was for dessert, a thick sweet of chocolaty pleasure with great consistency. Mandarin sorbet was also served simultaneously. An interesting dessert dish as it has a mingling of cool fruitiness and some savory. Then finally ending the meal were warm and tasty madeleines, aromatic Jasmine eggnog, and a plate of fresh fruits.

At the start there was no telling what I was in for but when the meal concluded the kitchen delivered a remarkable tasting. “Menu Astrance” was truly surprising and joyous to the taste buds. Chef Barbot’s technical skills fused different elements to create dishes that were both light and savory. The pacing in between courses was of a timely manner allowing me to enjoy and savor every dish. To complement the tasting, sommelier Alexander Jean assembled a perfect wine pairing of mainly French wine which brought out an extra flavor from each course, it was harmonious.

Wine Pairing:

The atmosphere in the dining room was relaxed and intimate. L’Astrance staffs were interactive while also maintaining their formality. There was a bit of cockiness and to some might be interpreted as arrogance but they do it in a fun way. Christophe’s presence in the dining room assured each and every guest received a faultless service.

Decorated chefs like Alain Ducasse, Yannick Alleno, Guy Savoy, Pierre Gagnaire have all set shop in Paris and all have built a global culinary empire. Unlike them and other great Parisian chefs, Chef Barbot owns and operates one restaurant, much like his mentor Alain Passard. He devotes his effort at L’Astrance and can be seen majority of the time behind the stoves. With this, guests are guaranteed to have a meal that has met his standards. As one of most sought after tables in Paris the expectation was high. Chef Barbot’s arsenal was on full force on my visit and he delivered one of the best meals I’ve had so far.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a treatment set to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile dysfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other folk even if their state appears to be the same as yours.