Netherlands – Rays Picks NYC

De Leest***

De Leest
Kerkweg 1
8171 VT Vaassen, Netherland
+31 578 571 382
Official Site

As a nation, the Netherlands has two 3 Michelin starred venues and having previously dined at one of them, De Librije in Zwolle, it was fitting that I visit De Leest. Located in the small quiet town of Vaassen in Northern Holland, Austrian born chef Jacob Jan Boerma and his wife Kim Vandelman transformed a shoemakers store back in 2002 to a fine dining destination. It received its first Michelin star a year after opening, then the second in 2007 and finally, in 2013 the restaurant joined the culinary elite when it won the coveted third star.

From Amsterdam, the restaurant is accessible by public transportation. After an hour and a half travelling by train and bus I arrived at the door of the De Leest where Kim and the staff, dressed in neat unformed gray suits were waiting to welcome me.

There are a variety of set menus and a la carte to choose from for lunch and dinner. I requested the “Menu Micri” their tasting menu for 145 euros. To start were a trio of tasty bite snacks, macaroon of mushroom with cheese and truffles, crispy cornetto stuffed with beef, yuzu and mustard. Third but not the least, crackers served with fresh vegetables with pickled and dried beef with cream of vegetables. De Leest is off to a good start so far.

Menu Micri:

Afterwards a trio of amuse-bouche, which began with a light scrumptious duck liver mouse with sweet and sour beet roots. It was followed by turnip cabbage with a rich tartare of dorade and oyster pearl and a spicy oyster vinaigrette. The third and final amuse was a Japanese inspired tempura of avocado with jellied miso, cream of wasabi and sesame dressing. Not only was it interesting but delicious as well.

The first part of the tasting was delightful and I couldn’t wait for the feature presentation. The first course was a North Sea crab with pumpkin and couscous. It was flavorful and the different preparations of pumpkin were brilliant. This was followed by the langoustine, cooked to perfection and made with escabeche of champignons and oil of tarragon giving it a pungent taste.

The scallop with truffle, roasted leeks and hazel nut was the next course. A profound truffle flavor along with the succulent scallops made it a lofty dish. It was followed by turbot from the North Sea with celeriac, chicory and curry sauce. The clash of flavors from citrusy, to spiciness, and little bit of smokiness was magical together.

After all the seafood dishes the next few courses were predominantly red meat. Pigeon with braised carrots, lovage and gravy came next. The tender pigeon was tasty with a lot of flavor to go with the pieces of excellent braised carrots. I was enjoying my meal more than when I started that I forgot to take a picture of the next course which was the Dutch calf lacquered with Olorso and spices, Jerusalem artichoke and sweet potato. The soft meat of the calf was wonderful. To finish was a single bite of fresh beef tartare rolled into a ball.

There were plenty of desserts courses. The first was the blood orange that had refreshing citric flavor and a slight of bitterness. This was followed by the mandarin and pineapple with white chocolate and lime, a fruity yet sweet mixture. Next was my favorite, pistachios and coconuts with almonds and Amarula. I liked the combination of the ingredients and the flavors that it produced. For the final dessert dish I was served sweet strawberries with spices. Just when I thought that my meal had ended, an array of small post dessert was served.

This was festivity that lasted close to four hours. The kitchen delivered, each dish starting with amuses all the way to dessert was a sequence of flavors that were in harmonious with one another.

For the tasting I requested the wine pairings that showed the brilliance of the sommelier. The pairings were carefully curated with European wines that heightens the flavors of each dish while others balance the acidity.

Wine Pairing:

Before opening De Leest, Chef Jan Boerma was already an established chef who had cooked at various kitchens in Europe as well as gaining two Michelin stars as chef de cuisine at Restaurant de Nederlanden. His experiences paved way to the cuisine at this restaurant where each dish had plenty of acidity yet was light. He is a pundit in creating elaborate dishes while using local ingredients.

De Leest possesses a cozy atmosphere. Its modern interior has lovely wood floorings, a wide open dining room and low ceilings, with lights that drop with serenity on top of every table. The chairs are built for extreme comfort and each guest has their privacy as the tables are spaced far apart. There are beautiful oversize paintings on display throughout the space as well as the wines that the restaurant offers. Black, white and grey dominates the colors of the interior.

Service was world class from beginning to end and what is expected of a three star restaurant. Throughout my meal Kim was present at the dining room and never lost sight of the guests. The staffs are well trained, professional and courteous. Sous Chef Ewout Eleveld (who I spoke to over the phone when I was making the reservation months prior) stopped by my table and we shared our appreciation for food and restaurants while having freshly brewed coffee.

I would have loved to have an after meal drink at one of the semi circular chairs in the lounge area if it wasn’t time to catch my train back to Amsterdam. Before leaving, Chef Jan Boerma came out of his kitchen to bid me farewell.

With a population of twelve thousand inhabitants, the town of Vaassen is so small that their train station was closed down. There’s not much going on here, even my hotel concierges haven’t heard of this town. The emergence of De Leest as a fine destination and after winning the third Michelin star last year, has put this quiet town in the map of gastronomy

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Daalder

DSCN5756

Daalder
Lindengracht 90
1015 KK Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 624 8864
Official Site

Finding a place to dine in the Netherlands on a Monday is quite a challenge since most of the top and Michelin rated restaurants are closed. Luckily Daalder, a restaurant located in the residential neighborhood of Jordaan in Amsterdam, was open. A quick research online produced nothing but praises and it’s considered to be one of the most exciting restaurants in Amsterdam.

In charge of the kitchen is Executive Chef Gulle De Beer, who previously worked at some of Amsterdam’s notable restaurants that has included Ron Blaauw, Envy, and Bord’ Eau. On my visit sous-chef Freek van Noortwijk was at the helm and since a la carte was not an option (only set menus of 3, 4, 5 and 6 courses for dinner and lunch) I allowed the Chef to work his culinary magic and requested the six course.

Chef van Noortwijk started with a few snacks of smoked almonds that I bypassed and grissini’s with fresh chick pea cream.

The amuse bouche of fresh salad with Dutch shrimp, cabbage,turnip and spring onions with cream of cauliflower, kaffir lime, curry and green apple was a terrific, light and refreshing start.The lively tartare of salmon with varieties of beetroot, horseradish cream, watercress, herring caviar and shallot rings was my first course. The exquisite combination of flavors melded beautifully.

A second course of sea bass on bread crust, variety of fennel and sauce of Pernod had a nice delicate texture. It was followed by pasta shell with cubes of smoked eel, cream of Jerusalem artichoke, salcornia and bread crumbs. The smoked eel permeated the sauce making it not only memorable, but my favorite dish of the tasting.

Thigh of chicken with parsnip cream, anise mushroom, capers, beurrenoisette and a crouton of sourdough which was cooked perfectly was flavorful. For the main course, I was served a Hoisin glazed cheek of veal with spicy bean salad, rice cracker, bok choy and sour cream. Veal cheek has an excellent soft texture and the spiciness was enough for my palate to handle. More heat can be added if requested.

The Chef was accommodating to my request of five savories and one sweet for dessert. He prepared a variety of mango with white chocolate cream, Thai basil ice cream and coconut crumble. The combination of sweet and sour was excellent and the right ending for this meal.

The sequence of courses in my tasting was harmonious and the wine pairing that I requested went perfectly. High quality cooking, yet reasonably priced for a restaurant of this caliber. This was one of the cheapest meals I’ve had in Europe, six courses (60 euros) along with the wine pairing totaled to $104!

Chef van Noortwijk’s talent in the kitchen did not disappoint and exceeded my expectations. The flavor profile in each dish combined with fresh local ingredients was masterful.

Wine Pairing:

Since it was Monday, Daalder was not busy and the server was able to pay a lot more attention to me. Service was relaxed, friendly and unpretentious. Even Chef van Noortwijk, though he was busy prepping for dinner service, was still able to stop by my table a few times to chat.

Daalder is a tale of two restaurants. From the outside it looks like an ordinary bistro blending with the rest of the neighborhood. Its long blond wooden bar, uncovered tables paired with hard wooden seats in the front gave a homey vibe where one can get a drink or garb a quick bite to eat. Towards the back of the restaurant, behind the bar, the setting changes a little. There are cloth covered tables with neatly arranged silverware to go along with comfortable padded chairs. Its white washed walls are decorated with several paintings. A large colorful peacock painting on top of the open kitchen looks out toward the dining room completes the interior.

Highly rated by Gault Millau and other media outlets, my meal at Daalder is comparable if not better than other top rated restaurants that I’ve been to. There is serious talent here that is highly underrated and fails to be recognized by the Michelin Guide. On their home page the restaurants goal is to become “the simplest ‘Michelin Star Cafe’ in the world”. Hopefully they can get one this year, as it deserves one.

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Bord’Eau **

Bord’Eau
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2
1012 CP Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 531 1705
Official Site

De L’Europe Hotel in the center of Amsterdam is one of the most luxurious accommodations in the city. Owned by the Heineken family and made famous by Alfred Hitchcock when he chose the hotel as a location for his film Foreign Correspondent. It also houses the two Michelin star restaurant Bord’Eau.

Opened in 2012 Bord’Eau received its first star after only a few months in operation, then the second star a year later. In two years the restaurant propelled to gastronomic feat, accomplishing that which is rarely done.

Bord’Eau is located in the lobby of the hotel, its contemporary designed dining room has evenly spaced tables covered in white cloth to match with comfortable ivory padded chairs.Gold rounded plates hang above, filling the low ceilings, while the walls are adorned with metallic gold. There are windows sizeable enough to provide plenty of natural light in the room. Sets of two top tables by the windows overlooking the Amstel River is preferred seating if available. There’s also a private dining enclosed with glass cases that display an array of bottled wine.

The restaurant offers two set menus, a five course for 98 Euros and the six-course for 10 euros more. A la carte is also available but on my visit I had the six course tasting.

My meal began with a cup of strong flavored duck broth with added spices that I found pleasing. Following the broth were a crisp, sweet and salty lobster canapé and a sour, yet alluring, oyster with red wine canapé.

Tasting Menu:

Afterwards a smooth and creamy foam of risotto, truffles and egg yolk was served. Tartare of veal, caviar and marrow that was simply sublime was next. A combo that is always wonderful.

My first official course was beetroot baked in salt and crust with wasabi ice cream, an interesting marriage of Asian flavors. The fresh vegetables and the cold temperature from the ice cream was ingenious. A big piece of succulent scallop with cream of artichoke and black truffle was the next course. The sweet deep sea flavor of the scallop and earthiness of the generous shaving of black truffles was immaculate.

Langoustine with jus, coconut served with tempura vegetables, and hand of Buddah was the next course. An Asian inspired dish where the langoustine was perfectly prepared with the sauce enhancing the taste.

Next was the fillet of sole and fennel, crunchy and stewed with gnocchi, zest of lemon and sea urchin sauce. The different flavors profiled in this dish worked in harmony with one another.

The lone red meat on the menu was the Duck a la Royale with young turnip and salted lemon that was too salty if eaten by itself. Head sommelier, Dennis Apeldoorn, was genius in pairing Austrian St. Laurent wine that reduced the saltiness and turned it into an enjoyable dish.

The dessert was a piece of art and visually stunning. Crystallized sugar, in the form of a green apple where the inside was made of green apple sorbet shaped to replicate the apple core. Even the seeds where made of chocolate! It sat on top of caramel and walnuts. If there was a perfect ten dessert this would be it. This alone highlighted the tasting menu.

Along with my tasting I added the wine pairing for 78 Euros that Dennis Appledorn paired with each course brought out an additional level of taste. The wines are predominantly French which was fitting for this restaurant.

This was a fantastic meal, as the dishes were sophisticated as well as well put together. The man responsible for the kitchen is Executive Chef Richard van Oosetnbrugge. He previously oversaw Restaurant Envy in Amsterdam before being tapped to handle all of De L’Europe Hotel eateries. His French cuisine, using local ingredients, at Bord’Eau has earned him the GaultMillau Chef of the year in 2014.

Like any fine dining in Europe the service is professional, a bit uptight but welcoming. The staff were friendly and I liked the fact the maître d recognized that I was a solo diner and provided reading materials while I waited in between courses. The service matched the food and made my dining experience at Bord’Eau an outstanding one.

Wine Pairing:

Visitors come to Amsterdam for the famous canals, architectures and even the Red Light district. As far as being a fine dining destination, it’s still not there. It has plenty of good restaurants and the ethnic food scene rivals that of New York City. What it lacks is fine dining that will put it on the map of gastronomy. With the emergence of Bord’Eau this restaurant might actually do that.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a curing preassigned to treat few ailments. What do you have to view about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your pharmacist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In addition, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are mostly able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may turn on erectile disfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other men even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.

De Librije ***

De Librije
Broerenkerkplein 13-15
8011 TW Zwolle, Netherlands
+31 38 421 2083
Official Site

With the exception of Paris, most of Europe’s top eateries are located outside of the main cities in towns that you’ve never heard before. Traveling by train or car in order to get there is required and staying overnight at a hotel is almost mandatory. The Netherlands is no different. De Librije, arguably the finest restaurant in the country, also happens to be located 75 miles away from the capital Amsterdam in the city of Zwolle.

The restaurant is owned and operated by Chef /Patron Jonnie Boer and his wife Therese who serves a dual duty of sommelier and the Lady of the house. The couple met while working in De Librije and in 2002 they became the proud owners. Chef Boer began his career here as an apprentice in 1986 and for more than 20 years he has elevated De Librije to culinary stardom. Under his watchful eyes the restaurant was awarded three Michelin stars in 2009 (one of only two in the Netherlands) and has held it ever since. It’s consistently voted as one of the best restaurant in the world every year. Along the way he became one of the country’s most decorated chefs and a leading figure in Dutch gastronomy.

De Librije is housed in a 16th century monastery located in the middle of Zwolle. On my arrival I was welcomed with a friendly reception by one of the managers. He then led me through a short curved hallway, passing by the kitchen, and in to the luxurious dining room where my table awaited me. The airy dining room that can seat up to forty guests is designed with tall ceilings, partnered with large windows that provide plenty of natural light. The tables paired with high back black velvet seats are spaced perfectly. There is enough room for a conversation with out over hearing the neighboring diners. And in the middle hanging high above is a rustic crystal chandelier that serves as the centerpiece of the room.

As I perused at the menu I was served with a fermented tea that aroused my palate from all the flavors touching my taste buds. I had already decided for the eight course tasting for 185 Euros. The concept allows guests to choose four dishes and the kitchen will handle the rest.

To start was the amuse-bouche of shrimp and oysters that were both raw, served in a bowl that replicated the sea. There was also an anchovy crisp plated on the fish skeletal. A lovely presentation on both dish and the flavors of the North Sea. The next amuse-bouche was beef tartare and oyster, a signature dish of the restaurant that was assembled on top of my hand. Made with chive cream, lettuce, beef tartare, oyster, oyster cream, potato puffs and an oyster leaf all on top of each other were combined elegantly.

The first course was smoked mackerel with turmeric, tulip bulbs and goose liver that Chef Boer himself brought to my table. The dish was vibrant and colorful, with a lovely smoky flavor to match. Then followed a meaty piece of langoustine with vanilla kombucha and pickled vegetables that was processed in the restaurant. It was well balance and a bit acidic to my liking. Served in between the first two courses were warmed multigrain bread with goat butter.

Next was the sweet water perch with spices oil and mustard seed which had great depth and was properly supplemented with bitterness from the vegetables. The delicious bounty of the North Sea and its oceanic essence was on display in the following course, sole with beurre noisette, immature juniper berry, Jerusalem artichoke and crabs. There were a number of ingredients in this dish that went well together brilliantly.

After several seafood dishes, the next few courses were red meat. First up was sweet bread in BBQ pineapple and peanut sauce with miniature shrimp. This intricate combination was interesting. Next was the pigeon prepared in various ways that was perfectly cooked and made with star anise, white pepper, and kohlrabi juice which showcased a delectable variety of texture.

The Epoisses made with acid-curd cheese from the Bourgogne, rabbit kidneys and potato juices was similar to a cheese course. The texture was slimy but bearable and the pungent taste subdued the gaminess of the rabbit kidney.

The transition to sweets began with chocolate and cheese, a combination that complimented each other. Then came the solidified rice pudding with beet root liquor, orange, and coconut. The crispy, sweet and tangy taste was enjoyable. The sweet Thai green curry with mango, pineapple, and ginger beer was a killer fusion of sweet and spicy taste and the star of all the desserts. There were a few more sweets that followed, a yogurt and chocolate mint served on top of a rock and chocolate kisses in Maggie boxes, and finally dried orange with mascarpone to clean the palate ended the tasting. A parting gift of edible joint was very clever and fitting.

I did not bother for the wine list and instead requested the pairing that included wines that Theresa fermented herself. Each wine was properly designed to enhance the flavors of each course.

Growing up in the area, Chef Boer is familiar with the regions seasonal bounty that inspires the cuisine at De Librije. Each course in my tasting was exceptional and the richness of Northern Holland is on display in every plate. The technique in combining numerous components together to create multiple flavors was skillful. The absence of foie-gras, caviar and other luxurious ingredients that are commonly seen at three star restaurant were not missed.

Along with De Librije, the Boer’s also own two Michelin starred restaurant Librije’s Zusje and Librije’s Hotel within walking distance from each other. They know the importance of service. On my visit, Theresa was present in the dining room and her personal touch of hospitality was felt. She provided the guest the menu and answered their questions if there was any, then stopped by each table more than once to make sure each guest were well taken care of. This type of four star service trickles down to the young staff. In the beginning they were a little uptight but as the meal went on they adjusted and were more relaxed. In turn it made for a fun dining experience for me. Service was flawless, the dining room was patrolled every so often while the rest of the staff monitors each guest out of sight.

Wine Pairing:

Every eatery that I’ve visited in Amsterdam the staff never failed to mention De Librije as the nation’s premiere restaurant. After visiting, it is something that I will not argue with. I, myself, had a memorable meal there. From getting to the restaurant, walking through the charming street of Zwolle, to the actual meal, savoring each dish and up until the train back to Amsterdam was an experience that I can do all over again. De Librije is a restaurant that’s worth a special journey.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a curing prescribed to treat few ailments. What do you have to regard about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In supplement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are mostly able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may turn on erectile disfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other men even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.