Casa Mono *

Casa Mono
52 Irving Pl,
New York, NY 10003
(212) 253-2773
Official Site

For more than twenty years, the Spanish restaurant Casa Mono has been a fixture of Gramercy Park, just a stone’s throw from the bustling Union Square Market. The restaurant is part of the B&B Hospitality Group, owned by celebrity restaurateur Joe Bastianich. From day one, Chef and patron Andy Nusser has been at the helm. Chef Nusser, who also served as the opening chef at Babbo—the group’s flagship restaurant in the West Village—launched Casa Mono in 1994. Under his leadership, the restaurant has consistently held a Michelin star since 2010 and earned a prestigious three-star review from The New York Times.

Casa Mono’s space is small and lively, featuring an open kitchen, closely arranged tables, and floor-to-ceiling windows that open to the street on nice days. A bar offers additional seating, while wine-lined walls and mosaic tile floors create a warm, Spanish-inspired setting. It can get noisy when crowded, but the energetic vibe only adds to its charm.

Casa Mono offers a single menu for both lunch and dinner, with a selection that is extensive yet not overwhelming. The Pulpo – fennel, grapefruit, and olive tapenade was a standout. The baby octopus was both crispy and tender, with the grapefruit adding a bright, bitter zest, while the olive tapenade contributed a briny depth. The Chopitos – smoked eggplant and squid ink featuring expertly fried cuttlefish, offered a delightful contrast of textures, with a crispy exterior and a rich, smoky undertone, balanced by the deep maritime essence of the squid ink sauce.

The Creamy Eggs – sea urchin, walnuts, and ancient anchovy oil, were executed flawlessly. The eggs had a silky consistency, enriched by the sweet brininess of the sea urchin. Another highlight was the Arroz Negro – fluke a la plancha and piparra emulsion. The fluke was delicate yet firm, resting atop squid ink rice and a vibrant lime basil sauce that married acidity, herbal freshness, and a hint of vegetal bitterness, complementing the dish beautifully.

The Bacalao Croquetas – orange aioli and orange zest offered a classic Spanish tapa with a refined twist. The crisp exterior gave way to a perfectly seasoned, salty interior, with the citrusy aioli providing a bright counterpoint. The Scallops – serrano pepper curry and minted cashews were wonderful. Their natural sweetness was layered with a subtly spiced curry sauce, while the cashews added texture and depth.

For something heartier the Duck Breast – maitake mushrooms and miel de Jerez, was impeccably cooked. The skin was crisp, the meat succulent, and the sauce carried a delicate sweetness, balanced by earthy undertones. The Braised Oxtail-piquillo peppers was meltingly tender, falling off the bone with ease. Served piping hot, its robust flavors begged for extra bread to soak up every last drop of the sauce. If there was one drawback, it was the portion size, which leaned on the smaller side.

Casa Mono’s tapas offerings were consistently delightful. Each dish was thoughtfully composed, expertly cooked, and brimming with bold, inventive flavors. The menu struck a balance between classic Spanish staples and elevated interpretations, all best enjoyed with selections from the restaurant’s award-winning wine list, featuring an extensive range of Spanish vintages and locally sourced Spanish beers.

Service at Casa Mono was exemplary. The staff was warm, attentive, and effortlessly hospitable, their laid-back approach complementing the restaurant’s relaxed and vibrant atmosphere.

If there is any caveat to dining at Casa Mono, it is the price. The portions could be slightly more generous, and with servers recommending three to four dishes per person, the bill can quickly add up. However, for those willing to indulge, the experience is well worth the cost.

Longevity is rare in the ever-changing landscape of New York City’s dining scene, where even the most celebrated restaurants can shutter within months. Casa Mono has defied the odds, thriving for over two decades while maintaining a standard of excellence that cements its status as one of the city’s premier Spanish dining destinations. Its legacy endures, and its success continues to this day.

Chambers

Chambers
94 Chambers St #1,
New York, NY 10007
(212) 580-3572
Official Site

Racine, a wine bar in Tribeca, had been on my list of places to visit, but unfortunately, it closed before I had the chance. The closure followed the departure of the former chef, who left to prioritize his family. Rather than continuing Racine, the owners chose to renovate and launch a new concept, rebranding it as Chambers.

Much of the original team remains, including the distinguished master sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier, who has stepped into the role of managing partner. Ms Lepeltier, known for her work at the Michelin-starred Rouge Tomate in New York City, brings her expertise to this new venture. Leading the kitchen is Executive Chef Jonathan Karis, formerly of the one-Michelin-starred Gramercy Tavern. Under his leadership, Chambers earned an impressive two-star review from The New York Times.

Chambers boasts an open, airy design. A bar runs alongside the dining tables, with a bench stretching the length of the restaurant, offering comfortable seating. There’s also counter seating that overlooks the open kitchen, as well as a communal table at the front, encouraging diners to enjoy their meals in a variety of settings. The decor is minimalist, with exposed red brick walls and unfinished concrete floors, giving the space a clean, understated elegance.

The menu at Chambers is à la carte, divided into starters, entrées, and desserts, with about five dishes in each category. Dining here with my wife, we were able to share and sample a variety of dishes. Among the appetizers we tried was the fluke-kohibari, jalapeño. This dish was delicate, with a bright citrus presence and a lingering spiciness that pleasantly lingered on the palate. The heirloom tomatoes-stone fruits,pistachio ricotta were light and refreshingly vibrant. The richness of the ricotta perfectly subdued the acidity of the tomatoes, a combination that was brilliantly executed.

For entrées, we had the tilefish-broccolini, yuzu, hazelnuts. The fish was elegantly prepared, firm yet tender, and complemented by a citrusy cream sauce that enhanced its flavor. The slight bitterness of the broccolini added a pleasant contrast to the dish. We also shared the vialone nano risotto- artichoke, lemon confit, parmesan. This dish struck the perfect balance of richness, salt, and tang—an exceptional offering that we thoroughly enjoyed. The hanger steak-heirloom tomatoes, horseradish, steak sauce, while a bit messy in appearance, was cooked to perfection. The meat was beautifully pink and succulent, with the steak sauce adding a subtle spiciness that elevated the dish.

Our server recommended the peaches & pluots-clafoutis, almond ice cream for dessert. The tart, made with pluot (a cross between plums and apricots) offered a fruity sweetness, perfectly complemented by a peach compote that bordered on sugary. The almond ice cream added a smooth, nutty contrast, gently tempering the sweetness for a balanced and satisfying finish.

Dinner here was thoroughly enjoyable. The food was thoughtfully composed, with layers of complexity and an exceptional blend of flavors. While the presentation could be more refined, the remarkable taste more than made up for it. The portion sizes were ideal, leaving us fully satisfied without feeling overly heavy. One of the best aspects of dining at Chambers is the price—a dinner for two can be enjoyed for around $200.

The wine list, curated by Ms Lepeltier, is vast and expertly selected. French and European wines are well-represented, alongside an impressive selection of U.S. wines, including many from the local Finger Lakes region. The inclusion of Japanese wines is a pleasant surprise, reflecting the global reach of the list, which spans almost every wine-producing region in the world. Chambers places a clear emphasis on wine as the star attraction.

The service was relaxed, in keeping with the restaurant’s laid-back, neighborhood vibe. The staff was attentive and genuine, contributing to the overall warm atmosphere.

Chambers is more of a wine bar than a traditional restaurant, and unlike many other wine bars in New York City, where the food takes center stage, here it’s the wine that shines. The food, however, is some of the most flavorful and intriguing I’ve had in recent memory. There is much to love about Chambers, and while it’s currently listed in the Michelin guide, I wouldn’t be surprised if it earns a star in the near future.

Dirt Candy *

Dirt Candy
86 Allen Street
New York NY 10002
(212) 228-7732
Website

Finding vegetarian options in New York City these days is no longer the challenge it once was, thanks to the growing number of vegetarian and veggie-focused eateries that have cropped up in recent years. Among these, Dirt Candy stands out as the premier vegetarian restaurant in the city, having paved the way for vegetarian cuisine long before it gained widespread popularity.

Dirt Candy opened in 2008, in a tiny space in the East Village under the guidance of Chef and Owner Amanda Cohen. It quickly garnered attention, receiving a two-star review from the New York Times. In 2015, the restaurant moved to its current, more spacious location on Allen Street. In 2022, the Michelin Guide bestowed a well-deserved one-star rating upon Dirt Candy, making it the sole vegetarian restaurant in New York City to achieve such recognition.

The restaurant’s interior is both welcoming and expansive, featuring an open kitchen with a prominent white marble counter top stretching the length of the space. The dining area is adorned with dark oak tables paired with comfortable ivory padded chairs, floor-to-ceiling storefront glass windows that flood the room with natural light, concrete flooring, and exposed steel beams, creating an industrial-chic atmosphere. During our visit, we had the pleasure of being seated at the counter, which offers a front-row view of the chefs meticulously crafting our dishes, adding an interactive and immersive element to the dining experience.

Dirt Candy is only open for dinner and offers a tasting menu initially priced at $90 during our visit (currently at $105), which includes service. Our dinner began with the Corn – corn mousse, fresh corn, seaweed caviar and baby corn where corn took center stage. The kitchen masterfully showcased the versatility of corn, creating diverse textures and flavors on the plate. The second course, a complimentary offering from the kitchen, featured precisely cut green beans arranged in a circular shape atop creamy avocado. The grassy notes of the beans paired surprisingly well with the buttery avocado cream.


Tomato – tomato cake, yellow tomato jam, tomato leather, smoke feta spotlights the diverse sweetness and acidity found in various tomato varieties. The savory tomato cake was executed to perfection, and the smoked feta added a wonderful touch of smokiness, which balanced the overall acidity on the plate. It was undoubtedly the standout dish during the tasting. Following that, we were served the Carrot Raita, another complimentary course. The combination of carrot crisps with frozen yogurt, along with both cooked and pickled carrots, offered a refreshing experience. Each bite revealed subtle hints of sourness, a touch of spiciness, and an earthy sweetness


Our dinner continued with Summer Squash – zucchini soup dumpling, zucchini ribbons, squash blossoms, black vinegar. The zucchini dumpling was sublime, bursting with an exceptionally rich flavor. The plate offered subtle, sweet, and floral notes that contributed to its depth and complexity. Eggplant – sesame eggplant, chermoula ranch, black sesame tahini was the main course. This delectable dish featured eggplant sliced into a ring and expertly deep-fried in sesame batter, resulting in extra crispy texture. Accompanied by an eggplant salad and labneh, this combination added a bright and delightful dimension to the overall flavor profile.


For dessert the Cucumber – cucumber jam, white chocolate, dill pickle merengue, melon sorbet was served. This fascinating dessert seamlessly combined refreshing, creamy, and sugary elements. The addition of pickled meringue on top added a smores-like twist to the dish.

Dinner at Dirt Candy was a pure vegetal delight. The kitchen’s masterful culinary techniques were on full display, as they artfully used fresh, vibrant vegetables to craft a symphony of textures and flavor compositions. Despite the standard five-course tasting menu, we were pleasantly surprised by the addition of two extra courses, leaving us perfectly satisfied. The absence of meat and animal by-products went unnoticed, and we didn’t yearn for the typical accompaniments of bread, amuse-bouche, or pre-dessert. To elevate our dining experience, I opted for the $50 wine pairing, which featured five glasses of organic and natural wines expertly selected to complement each course.


Dirt Candy’s staff were not only personable but also exceptionally pleasant, providing a relaxed yet attentive service that matched the restaurant’s laid-back atmosphere. The eclectic selection of music in the dining room added to the overall experience, and sitting at the counter allowed us to engage and converse with the chefs, some of whom prepared and served our food themselves.

Wine Pairing:


Our first experience dining at a vegetarian tasting-menu-only restaurant exceeded our expectations. I found myself thoroughly enjoying Dirt Candy, from the exceptional food to the friendly staff. It came as no surprise that after our visit, the Michelin guide awarded Dirt Candy a well-deserved star.