Tag: North America

Rooster & Owl *

Rooster & Owl
2436 14th St NW
 Washington, DC 20009
(202) 915-9004
Official Site

Rooster & Owl is a Michelin-starred restaurant in Washington, D.C., owned by the husband-and-wife duo Yuan and Carey Tang. Chef Yuan serves as the Executive Chef, while Carey manages the front of the house. Chef Yuan honed his craft in several renowned Michelin-starred establishments in New York, including Jean-Georges, The Modern, and Dovetail. He later returned to D.C. to work at various local restaurants before launching Rooster & Owl as a pop-up in 2016. In 2019, the restaurant found a permanent home, earning a glowing three-star review from The Washington Post and a Michelin star the same year—an accolade it proudly retains to this day.

Located along 14th Street in Washington, D.C.’s Columbia Heights neighborhood, Rooster & Owl exudes industrial-chic charm. At the entrance, guests are greeted by a sleek bar that also serves as counter seating. The dining room features uncovered blonde wooden tabletops paired with brown leather chairs, creating a warm yet modern ambiance. Heavy-duty metal shelving divides the space, adding both function and character. Diners can also catch glimpses of the open kitchen, adding an interactive element to the dining experience.

Open exclusively for dinner, the restaurant offers a prix fixe menu priced at $95, consisting of four courses—three savory dishes and a dessert—with the option to add extra courses for $15 each. The meal begins with a warm Hong Kong-style pineapple bun, which is light, airy, and infused with a delightful pineapple flavor.

The first course, FLUKE TARTARE – wasabi | huckleberry | melon, is visually striking, bursting with color and freshness. The fluke is delicately marinated in citrus, enhancing its natural brightness while a subtle floral note adds depth. Next, the CHARRED CABBAGE – whipped tofu | Thai chili honey | nuoc cham | hazelnut presents a medley of fresh vegetables with a perfect balance of sweetness and spice. The whipped tofu provides a silky base that complements the charred scallions beautifully, resulting in a light yet flavorful dish.

The NORWEGIAN COD – Littleneck clams | potato leek | fennel follows, with the cod expertly seasoned and enveloped in a thick potato-leek sauce that lends richness to the dish. A touch of yuzu marmalade brings a welcome zest, while crispy carrot strings add texture and a hint of earthy sweetness.

The SHORT RIB TORTELLINI – roasted tomato | bone marrow | XO butter is a standout. The tortellini, filled with tender short rib and foie gras, is decadent and deeply satisfying. The bone marrow sauce imparts a luxurious savoriness, while dehydrated garlic chili adds a crunchy texture and a mild kick of heat.

Highly recommended by the staff, the CHICKEN PRESSE – braised endive, confit potato, chicken jus, does not disappoint. The chicken is perfectly cooked—exceptionally tender and moist with a skin that is irresistibly crispy. The accompanying chicken jus is deeply flavorful, tying the dish together beautifully.

For dessert, the HUMMINGBIRD CAKE – chili pineapple | cream cheese | coconut is a unique take on the classic Southern cake, originally from Jamaica. Another staff favorite, this dessert impresses with its luscious cream cheese filling, which is both rich and delicately sweet. The chili pineapple adds a bright contrast, while coconut is creatively incorporated in various forms, including a crisp and a creamy coconut ice cream. To conclude the meal, a sweet almond financier is served, providing a simple yet satisfying final bite.

Dinner at Rooster & Owl is an enjoyable and well-executed experience. The menu showcases strong Asian influences, with ingredients thoughtfully woven together to create layers of flavors that harmonize beautifully. The four-course structure is more than satisfying, yet the option to add additional dishes allows guests to personalize their tasting journey.

The service is equally impressive—warm, engaging, and effortlessly professional. The staff strike a perfect balance between being attentive and maintaining a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, making each guest feel at home.

Rooster & Owl is a restaurant I thoroughly enjoyed. As a strong one-Michelin-star establishment, it delivers exceptional flavors at an accessible price point in an inviting setting. It’s a dining experience well worth seeking out.

Chambers

Chambers
94 Chambers St #1,
New York, NY 10007
(212) 580-3572
Official Site

Racine, a wine bar in Tribeca, had been on my list of places to visit, but unfortunately, it closed before I had the chance. The closure followed the departure of the former chef, who left to prioritize his family. Rather than continuing Racine, the owners chose to renovate and launch a new concept, rebranding it as Chambers.

Much of the original team remains, including the distinguished master sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier, who has stepped into the role of managing partner. Ms Lepeltier, known for her work at the Michelin-starred Rouge Tomate in New York City, brings her expertise to this new venture. Leading the kitchen is Executive Chef Jonathan Karis, formerly of the one-Michelin-starred Gramercy Tavern. Under his leadership, Chambers earned an impressive two-star review from The New York Times.

Chambers boasts an open, airy design. A bar runs alongside the dining tables, with a bench stretching the length of the restaurant, offering comfortable seating. There’s also counter seating that overlooks the open kitchen, as well as a communal table at the front, encouraging diners to enjoy their meals in a variety of settings. The decor is minimalist, with exposed red brick walls and unfinished concrete floors, giving the space a clean, understated elegance.

The menu at Chambers is à la carte, divided into starters, entrées, and desserts, with about five dishes in each category. Dining here with my wife, we were able to share and sample a variety of dishes. Among the appetizers we tried was the fluke-kohibari, jalapeño. This dish was delicate, with a bright citrus presence and a lingering spiciness that pleasantly lingered on the palate. The heirloom tomatoes-stone fruits,pistachio ricotta were light and refreshingly vibrant. The richness of the ricotta perfectly subdued the acidity of the tomatoes, a combination that was brilliantly executed.

For entrées, we had the tilefish-broccolini, yuzu, hazelnuts. The fish was elegantly prepared, firm yet tender, and complemented by a citrusy cream sauce that enhanced its flavor. The slight bitterness of the broccolini added a pleasant contrast to the dish. We also shared the vialone nano risotto- artichoke, lemon confit, parmesan. This dish struck the perfect balance of richness, salt, and tang—an exceptional offering that we thoroughly enjoyed. The hanger steak-heirloom tomatoes, horseradish, steak sauce, while a bit messy in appearance, was cooked to perfection. The meat was beautifully pink and succulent, with the steak sauce adding a subtle spiciness that elevated the dish.

Our server recommended the peaches & pluots-clafoutis, almond ice cream for dessert. The tart, made with pluot (a cross between plums and apricots) offered a fruity sweetness, perfectly complemented by a peach compote that bordered on sugary. The almond ice cream added a smooth, nutty contrast, gently tempering the sweetness for a balanced and satisfying finish.

Dinner here was thoroughly enjoyable. The food was thoughtfully composed, with layers of complexity and an exceptional blend of flavors. While the presentation could be more refined, the remarkable taste more than made up for it. The portion sizes were ideal, leaving us fully satisfied without feeling overly heavy. One of the best aspects of dining at Chambers is the price—a dinner for two can be enjoyed for around $200.

The wine list, curated by Ms Lepeltier, is vast and expertly selected. French and European wines are well-represented, alongside an impressive selection of U.S. wines, including many from the local Finger Lakes region. The inclusion of Japanese wines is a pleasant surprise, reflecting the global reach of the list, which spans almost every wine-producing region in the world. Chambers places a clear emphasis on wine as the star attraction.

The service was relaxed, in keeping with the restaurant’s laid-back, neighborhood vibe. The staff was attentive and genuine, contributing to the overall warm atmosphere.

Chambers is more of a wine bar than a traditional restaurant, and unlike many other wine bars in New York City, where the food takes center stage, here it’s the wine that shines. The food, however, is some of the most flavorful and intriguing I’ve had in recent memory. There is much to love about Chambers, and while it’s currently listed in the Michelin guide, I wouldn’t be surprised if it earns a star in the near future.

Shibumi *


Shibumi
815 S. Hill St.
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(323) 484-8915
Official Site

One Michelin-starred Shibumi, located in Downtown Los Angeles (DTLA), is a Japanese restaurant specializing in kappo-style cuisine. Its chef and owner, David Schlosser, has a strong Michelin pedigree, having honed his skills at three-Michelin-starred restaurants such as Georges Blanc in Vonnas, L’Arpège in Paris, and Kikunoi Honten and Arashiyama in Kyoto, Japan. In the U.S., he has worked at Masa Takayama’s Ginza Sushi-ko and Urasawa in Beverly Hills. Chef Schlosser opened Shibumi in 2016, and received a Michelin star in 2019, which it has maintained ever since.

Shibumi’s facade is highly distinguishable and hard to miss along S Hill Street. The restaurant features a spacious, softly lit dining room that can accommodate up to forty guests. Its modestly designed space includes sparsely spaced dark wooden two-top tables and a long L-shaped counter with a 400-year-old wood top.

The restaurant offers a multi-course option priced at $125, available only in the evening. Dinner begins with “Hassun,” a collection of small dishes served with sake. These include “Chiayu,” young sweetfish tsukandani, a small fish cut in half that is sweet and salty. The cucumber stuffed with salted plum, smoked bonito, and sesame is crunchy and highlighted with wonderful salinity. The fresh yuba with shrimp, dashi joyu, and shiso flowers is rich with a pleasant subtlety, while the Mozuku shot with green grapes combines a profound seaweed taste with the sweet, alcoholic fruitiness of the grapes.

Sashimi of the moment featured thinly sliced flounder, offering a delicate taste that lingered on the palate. It was dusted with dried mullet roe, adding a subtle crunch, and accompanied by an intriguing nori jelly. A slimy-textured potato yam and a salty flounder belly cut sashimi rounded out this dish with contrasting textures and flavors.

Next, the Chilled somen noodles, pearl tomato, japanese parsley, summer vegetables arrived. The dish was refreshing, with a pleasant acidity provided by the tomatoes, balancing the lightness of the noodles. The Tempura of black cod, warm dashi, grated radish followed after. Bathed in a warm, umami-rich dashi broth, the cod was perfectly fried, with a wonderfully crisp crust that soaked up the dashi, creating a delightful harmony of flavors. The grated radish added a hint of bitter spiciness that enhanced the dish.

Sakura masu – smoked, grilled Japanese cherry trout served as the main course and was cooked elegantly. The skin had a charred texture, while the fish itself carried a pleasant smokiness. A side of pickled daikon provided a sweet and sour contrast that complemented the trout beautifully.

The rice dish featured Iron pot rice from iwate – ginga no shizuku variety, house miso in smoked dashi broth, tororo shaved konbu, shitake, salted shirashu white bait boiled in seawater. Mixing the rice with the other components resulted in a comforting, flavorful dish. The deep-fried shirashu added a crispy texture and a burst of salty flavor, while the pickled vegetables contributed an extra layer of tangy sourness. The miso soup had a refined earthiness, rounding out the meal.

Before dessert, I was offered supplemental small dishes. I chose the 3-month-cured uni, which was pungent with a cheese-like consistency, and the Okinawan red koji tofu, which delivered a strong, biting salinity that was both intriguing and intense.

For the sweet course, the Koji custard with yatsuhashi cinnamon crackers was served cold, offering a refreshing touch to the palate with just the right amount of sweetness. The final dish, Poached loquat in elderflower gelée, was a gelatin-like dessert with a delightful sweet fruitiness.

Dinner was enjoyable, with food that was uncomplicated yet evocative of traditional Japanese flavors that were clean and subtle. Each plate was composed with detailed precision, showcasing quality ingredients at their peak. Shibumi offers a well-rounded selection of sake and shochu, along with an extensive array of Japanese whisky to complement the meal.

The service is informal, with a laid-back approach that creates a relaxed atmosphere. The staff is personable, including the chefs behind the counter, making the dining experience fun and convivial. Sitting at the counter is preferred for engaging with the staff and enhancing the overall experience.

Considering the price tag, dinner at Shibumi offers great value and is more approachable for many, especially in an expensive city like Los Angeles. The restaurant provides guests with uncomplicated traditional food in a fun and un-stuffy setting, solidifying its place as a noteworthy restaurant in Los Angeles.

Addison ***

Addison
at The Fairmont Grand Del Mar
5300 Grand Del Mar Ct,
San Diego, CA 92130
(858) 314-1900
Official Site

As the state of California’s second largest city and the ninth most populous in the US with 1.3 million residents, San Diego is known for the world famous San Diego Zoo, Comic Con and its pleasant weather all year round. However it hardly comes up as a food destination even though the city boasts plenty of excellent places to eat. It wasn’t until the Michelin guide star wide expansion in 2019 put the city of San Diego on notice. 2022 was the year San Diego was officially recognized in the global culinary map when the Michelin guide awarded Addison three Michelin stars making it the very first in Southern California.

Addison has been awarded all the accolades that a restaurant can receive. It holds the Forbes Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond, and is an esteemed member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant group. The restaurant has consistently ranked among the best, not only in the state but also in the country. In the Michelin Guide’s inaugural statewide edition in 2019, Addison was awarded one Michelin star (some argued it should have received at least two). The second star came a year later, and finally, in 2022, the ultimate third star was just the icing on the cake.

The restaurant is situated within the luxurious Fairmont Grand Del Mar resort, housed in its own distinct edifice. Guests are welcomed by a waiting room with  a cozy fireplace, which leads into a spacious bar area. The Addison dining room boasts large windows that offer views of the surrounding area. The dining room itself is expansive, with high ceilings and generously spaced oversize tables. Although the decor is a bit outdated, it still exudes charm and luxury.

Only open for dinner, Addison offers a single tasting menu priced at $355 at the time of my visit (excluding tax and gratuity). A small glass of warm guava hibiscus and apple drink filled with fruity aromatics prepared my palate for what was to come. This was immediately followed by an array of small bites served all at once. The Sake Cured Kampachi Nigiri has a pleasing cured and spicy flavor, while the Kumamoto Oysters with pickled rose apples and champagne has a light and clean oceanic taste. The Mexican-inspired Chicken Liver Churro with bitter chocolate was a delectable contrast, and the Sage Hill Ranch Garden Greens was a true vegetal delight. Lastly the Iberian Ham with crispy potato and aged sherry was a nice savory bite. These starters were an amazing introduction to dinner.

Tasting Menu:

 The first course featured Kampachi Sashimi with Preserved Pears and Pinchuberry-Ponzu Kiwi. The delicate kampachi, boasting exceptional freshness, with bright flavors that harmonized beautifully with citrus notes. Next, Shellfish Chawanmushi with Broccoli, Bok Choy, and Purple Daikon provided a superb interplay of hot and cold temperatures. The custard’s sharp shellfish essence was complemented by the textured bitterness of chopped bok choy.

The Reglis Ova Reserve Caviar with Koshikari Rice, Smoked Sabayon, and Sesame presented a rice bowl of premium Japanese rice. The eggs imparted excellent creaminess to the rice, while the sabayon added a hint of smoke, and the caviar contributed a perfect touch of salinity. These combined elements created a  balanced dish. Next came Salt and Vinegar Chips with Toasted Dill and Burnt Onion Dip. The extra crunchy chips provided an ideal neutral base for the dip, which was richly flavorful, with a terrific burnt note enhancing its richness.

Continuing with Splendid Alfonsino, Flavors of Winter, Battered Kelp, and Clam Butter, a tender piece of fish with expertly fried scales rendered an extra crispy texture. The foamy clam butter sauce was delicious, with chive oil adding a zesty element to the fish. Bread is typically served at the beginning of a meal, but here it was presented as its own separate course. Sourdough Bread with Goat’s Milk and Browned Honey Butter arrived at my table with two types of butter. The freshly baked bread had a crackling lacquered crust. While goat’s milk butter isn’t usually my preference, the brown honey butter was incredibly good, and I couldn’t get enough of it.

Afterwards, the Tom Kha Guong Sweet and Sour Fowl, King Crab, and Swarnadwipa was served. This reinterpretation of the staple Thai soup by the restaurant offered robust flavors with a refined twist. The soup contains chunks of delectable king crab meat, accompanied by a side of crispy fried chicken nuggets that were equally delightful.

Squab Yakitori, Peanut Miso, Pak Choy, and Tokyo Turnips was the main course for the evening. Different parts of the squab were prepared skillfully. The leg was grilled to perfection and dusted with shiitake mushroom and coffee, adding a blend of earthy and bitter flavors. The other cuts of meat were succulent and flavorful. The peanut miso had a sweet and savory character that successfully paired with the squab. This was an exceptional main course.

“Creamsicles” was the palate clean ser, made from coconut cream, blood orange, tangerine, and orange sherbet chutney. This was quite refreshing, citrusy, and had a hint of spiciness.

The Sweet Treats consisted of two parts presented simultaneously. One was a large dessert plate of Praline Crunch, Mezcal, Passion Fruit, and Toasted Fluffi, which had a sweet and salty aspect to it. The passion fruit and mezcal sauce provided a pleasant acidity and fruitiness. The other part was a parade of small treats: Yuzu Custard Ceremonial Matcha (foamy, grainy, and limely), Berry-Beet Tartelette with Verjus and Vanilla (not as sweet as it looked but rather had a earthy and fruity notes), Bitter Chocolate Wafer with Pistachio and Sour Cherry Jam (was a chocolatey goodness), and Wildflower Honey Combs (with delicate sweetness). These were a fitting end to a great meal.

This was an outstanding dinner that showcased California’s agricultural bounty and cultural diversity. Diners are taken on a global journey with influences from many different cuisines, all touched with a distinct “Californian” flair. There were plenty of familiar flavors and dishes that were refined and elevated. Chef Bradley’s brilliance and his repertoire were on display this evening. The sommelier, at my request, paired the first half of the meal with a 2020 Sauvignon Baron Widdman from Northern Italy, while the latter part was paired with a 2019 Frederic Magnien ‘Clos Sorbé’ Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru red wine from Burgundy.

Sweet Treats:

Addison’s service exemplifies Southern California’s laid-back attitude while also maintaining a sense of professionalism. The staff were authentic, personable, and warm, making you feel right at home. They were extremely knowledgeable and well-versed on every detail on the plate. Chef Bradley visited every table in the dining room and chatted briefly with guests during this visit. He was also there to greet guests on a kitchen tour at the end of the meal.

A visit to Addison is an expensive undertaking and, for many, a special occasion or once-in-a-lifetime experience. However, when given a chance to dine here, this is a great restaurant that delivers perfectly executed dishes matched with unparalleled service from an energetic staff.

San Diego has long been an underrated food city. However, as more establishments earn Michelin stars and international accolades, it is steadily transforming into a gastronomic hotbed, with Addison leading the way. Few major cities around the world can boast a restaurant that is both synonymous with the city and a must-visit destination. San Diego has that in Addison. Traveling gastronomes have been making the special journey to dine there, and rightly so—Addison is truly one of the finest dining establishments in the world.

elements

elements
66 Witherspoon St.
Princeton, NJ 08542
(609) 924-0078
Website

Seventy five miles south of the New York City is the wealthy town of Princeton New Jersey. Famous for its name sake Ivy League school, the town is also home to the restaurant, elements. Considered as the top dining venue in the Garden State, this restaurant has garnered national praise throughout the years. Its chef and owner Scott Anderson is a Jersey native and a self-taught chef. He worked at a number of New Jersey restaurant that includes the Ryland Inn before establishing elements in 2008.

Elements is located in heart of Princeton along the town’s main drag where all the main events take place. The restaurant is situated on the second floor of an industrial building that also houses its more casual sister restaurant, Mistral. The dining room has twenty eight dark oak wooden tables, ceilings with exposed wooden beams, and an open kitchen.  

There are several dining option at elements, a Chef Tasting Menu and Grand Tasting Menu available any day of the week, a four-course on week nights, and a five course on the weekend. On this visit, the Chef Tasting Menu priced at $129 was the choice. It consists of eight or so courses with three small snacks to start.

Dinner began with quail eggs presented in a nest, it had a pleasant salty smokiness to it.  Next was the local mushroom, which arrived at the table mimicking a forest ground complete with musk and tree trunk. The mushroom is gelatinous with subtle earthiness. And the final bite, crispy chicken with egg yolk and summer truffles was a terrific crispy fried chicken skin oozing in thick egg yolk with sharp truffle note. 

For the first course, the Scallop-horseradish, soy calamansi were chunks of scallop served on the shell awash with vibrant acidic yellow sauce. The sauce acidity and the spiciness of horseradish were paired nicely with the scallop clean sweetness. Also served on the shell was the Surf Clam-celery root, shallot, cured pork. The clam was drenched in foam of celery root then topped off with fried onions and fresh shallots. The cured pork not only provided the much needed saltiness but also fat to balance the dish. An off the menu course of sashimi of surf clam was served immediately after. Raw clams are usually tasteless but here it was beautifully flavored with soy sauce and citrus.

Next was the Sable Fish- tomato, miso, eggplant, tomato sauce. Also known as cod, the sable fish was delicate and buttery. The tomato sauce created an extra layer of flavor that elevated the fish while the spinach crisp added a pleasant bitterness as well as crunchy texture. That was followed by Princeton Mushroom- taleggio, leeks, truffle which were locally grown mushrooms freshly picked on that day. This enjoyable dish contains plenty of diverse earthiness.  

The meal continued on with land proteins, Pheasant- sauce albufera, mustrad, tarragon features the dark and white meat of the pheasant which were prepared accordingly. The mustard distinct presence on the plate gave the pheasant meat an extra dimension of taste.  Venison-sassafras, celery root, huckleberry was a scrumptious flavorful piece of venison decorated with petals and herbs.  The huckleberry syrup contains a berry sweetness that complemented the venison. There was a slight spiciness in the background that managed to blend in with other component on the plate. Ribeye-hickory smoked, mushroom, herbs was the main course. The ribeye was tender and extremely moist. It had a wonderful woody smokiness and a delightful touch of sweetness.

Presented in a whole green lime the Citrus-sorrel and buckwheat had a soothing creamy zest that cleans the palate of all the savory residue.  Dessert was the Farmer’s Cheese- hazelnut,plum,caramel, frozen tangy cheese sweetened with sugary caramel and fruity plums. Helping to restrain the sweetness and add texture to this dessert were the hazelnut crumbles. Finally chocolate with sea salt marked the ending of the meal.

The Chef Tasting Menu at element was enjoyable. It was well put together and shows the kitchen’s skillful art of cooking. They utilize mainly local ingredients from New Jersey to produce dishes with mixture of flavors that works. The pairing of eight glasses of European wine cost an economical $89 were curated to complement each course.

Service was hard to complain about at elements. The staff was efficient and professional. At times the chefs from the kitchen including Chef Anderson himself brought out the food to the table. They were engaging to some degree and every individual staff were able to explain every course clearly.

Wine Pairing:

Having the richest GDP in any metro in the US, the supply of terrific restaurant are in abundance, but most of them are  usually confined within the five boroughs of New York City. However for Princeton residents there’s no need to travel to have a fine meal. Elements offers and delivers a solid dining experience that are comparable of that of New York City. Being in a small town, it’s easy to stand out but there is no doubt that this restaurant can shine with the with the finest in the Northeast.

Hinata

Hinata
810 Van Ness Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 829-8291
Website

Looking at the tasting menu restaurants in San Francisco, I find it to be expensive and even pricier than New York once tax and tip are added. I wanted a pocket-friendly multi-course dinner. I did a quick search on the web ended up with Hinata, a sushi restaurant that only offers omakase for the fairly decent price of $78.

Hinata was founded by a pair of sushi chefs who cut their skills at San Francisco’s local sushiyas, in the rapidly gentrifying neighborhood of The Tenderloin. The restaurant has a spacious layout with high ceilings and modestly designed interior. Guest can choose to dine at the twelve seats sushi counter or at one of their two top tables.  There are only two seating available nightly and reservation are made through YELP. Adhering to the Japanese way of dining and punctuality, every guest are seated and served at the same time

The omakase began with four appetizer served simultaneously. Hokkaido tofu with ginger, wasabi and salmon roe; tofu from Hokkaido are some of the finest and its high quality is apparent in this dish. The texture is firm while also possessing a certain tenderness. Ice fish with wakame and cucumber has an interesting taste that is similar to crustacean, and Vinegar cured fresh Okinawa seaweed has a blend of sourness with a deep ocean element. The Seared Hokkaido scallop with miso aioli was a spoon of delicious luscious scallop flavored with miso aioli.

On to the nigiri’s, the first to arrive was the Kanpachi- amber jack, which has a nice buttery sweetness to it. Hirami-flounder has a mildness that was in perfect tune with the citric acidity from the yuzu.  Next, the Hon Maguro-blue fin tuna was filled of delicious fattiness. In contrast, the Bincho-albacore tuna has leaner taste and texture. Tachiuo-belt fish was blow torched, slightly changing its quality as well as providing wonderful chard skin.

The Kasugodai-baby red snapper was tender and comes with a noticeable aroma of the sea. The Shima Aji-striped jack has very good clean subtle taste and the Umi masu-ocean trout features an oily content with a mild saltiness. Kinmedai-cherry wood smoked golden eye snapper was brilliantly infused with fruity smokiness.

Continuing on with Kamasu-Japanese barracuda, an inexpensive fish that is never used in any sushiyas in Japan. The barracuda was lightly seared, hardening the top layer while giving it a nice flavor. Negitoro-fatty blue fin tuna with pickled daikon is a delectable scraped tuna meat mixed with pickled daikon and wrapped in sea weed. That was followed by an excellent Chu toro- medium fatty blue fin tuna, which also marks the end of the sushi part of the omakase.  I added a few more items such as the decadent O-toro-blue fin tuna underbelly which was extremely flavorful. The Ankimo-monk fish liver were thick cuts of creamy and velvety monk fish liver. The Shiriyaki-fresh water eel has a good bright sweet graininess, and the Uni-Maine sea urchin was fresh and buttery.

Tamago-organic egg custard with shrimp was delicate and has a profound shrimp taste and the Owan- Fish broth with red miso, nameko and mitsuba has sharp fish flavors mixed in with a distinct earthiness. Then, finally dessert; Black sesame ice cream. This ice cream is nutty with hints of bitterness, and not as sweet as I thought it would be which I actually enjoy.  

In this omakase, the ingredients were seasonal and quality. Most of the fish and seafood are shipped directly from Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji Market while also utilizing local products. The sushi rice was nicely compacted together, and contain a wonderful amount of vinegar. Both rice and fish were able to perfectly come together.

Prior to starting the omakase, Chef Gavin Leung (the other half of the duo that opened Hinata) who was in-charged of my side of the counter introduced himself. He was engaging throughout the evening, and promoted communal vibe amongst guest. The service was nothing to complain about, the staff were great and gracious.

I was surprised at the price I paid at this restaurant. For $78 their omakase was a bargain considering the type of quality ingredients that were used, and the craftsmanship that it takes to prepare this type of a meal. Hinata is a place to indulge without putting a deep hole in the pocket.

 

Benu ***

Benu
22 Hawthorne St.
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 685-4860
Website

For more than a hundred years, the Michelin guide is hailed as the dining authority throughout Europe. In 2005, they expanded their reach and crossed the Atlantic to the United States in to New York City. A year later the San Francisco and the Bay Area edition was published bestowing its highest accolades to only one restaurant, Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Yountville. Unfortunately, San Francisco failed to impress the Michelin inspector. For eight long years it waited for a restaurant worthy of the third star, then finally in 2014 a pair of two stars was elevated to three.

Benu is one of the four restaurants with three stars currently in San Francisco. Its head chef and owner Korean born Corey Lee, is a product of Thomas Keller kitchen. He held the sous chef position at the French Laundry, and was one of the opening chef of Per Se in New York. His extensive resume included stints at Michelin starred establishment such as Guy Savoy in Paris, Pied a Terre, Pierre Koffman in London and Daniel in New York.  He opened Benu in 2010 in the Financial District and immediately received two Michelin stars, and eventually attaining the third star in 2014. Along with Saison, they were the first in San Francisco to accomplish this feat.

The restaurant is tucked in a historic building accessible through a courtyard. Its kitchen are visible through large windows from Hawthorne Street. Benu’s main dining room has tall ceilings, soft lighting, and uncovered dark oak tables paired with thick padded chairs that are tightly spaced from each other. The interior is minimalist with plenty of black, white and dark gray colors. There is no bar or lounge, only a waiting area by the entrance. And directly behind the hostess desk is a smaller dining area that looks down on main dining room.

There was only one dining option at Benu, a tasting menu priced at $295. The meal started with “small delicacies” beginning with a Chinese specialty called the thousand year old quail egg which has a delightful cured saltiness. While its sauce provided a terrific rich element to it. Next was the oyster, pork belly kimchi served in warm and cold temperature with a tongue pleasing hint of kimchi fieriness. The marinated mussel stuffed with glass noodles has a sweetness that managed to fittingly blend with the mussel deep sea brininess.

A tart of buttery monkfish liver with trout roe and radish was next. Perfectly complementing the monkfish liver were the bitterness from the thinly slice radishes.  That was followed by the prawn wrapped in jelly fish with comte sea weed, fresh off the fryer and served burning hot. The meaty prawn was tasty and the wrapping of jelly fish and seaweed added a beautiful crispy texture. Then came the blood sausage with squid and sesame leaf. By adding squid and sesame leaf, not only gave the homely blood sausage a certain refinement but also created an interesting mixture of flavors that works together.

Grilled chicken wing stuffed with abalone liver was marinated in soy sauce for a wonderful salty sweetness and the abalone liver stuffing was a pure joy.  The shark fin pho with truffles and crab was not actually made with shark fin, instead the restaurant used Jinhua ham, crabs and other ingredients to replicate it,. The pho was prepared very well with a nice subtleness paired with sharp notes of truffle. Then came bread course, freshly baked sprouted grain bread served warm and accompanied with orange blossom honey infused ginseng butter.

First course, is the restaurant signature dish lobster coral xiao long bao with homemade soy sauce and vinegar. At first bite, the xiao long bao was oozing with tremendous amount of robust flavors, which is eventually followed by delectable filling of lobster roe. Dipping it in homemade soy sauce and vinegar adds a sublime mixture of salty and sour.

Next course came in threes and served all at once with a bowl of high quality white rice from Japan.  The caviar with hand-pressed sesame oil, sesame leaf and daikon has a superb subtle salinity, the sea urchin marinated in fermented crab sauce, thinly sliced kohlrabi was full of buttery goodness and the lightly-cured mackerel, fresh ginger, sake lees pickles has an excellent clean pickle taste and light spiciness to it.

The meal continued with the barbecued quail, Chinese artichoke with red cabbage and black truffle sauce, double bouillon of quail with mountain yam. Whole barbecued quail was shown to the table before the server brought it back to the kitchen and prepared. The quail meat was tender, juicy, and nicely flavored with truffle sauce (that also worked well with the mountain yam on the plate). Served on the side, was an amazing steamed truffle bun with a delightful truffle cream. Another addition was the savory quail stock with mountain yam.  In this course the kitchen resourcefully used the three main ingredients to create different dishes.

Beef rib braise in pear, daikon cooked in beef jus, scallion and chrysanthemum salad were the last of the savory plates. The scrumptious rib was superbly done with very good textures and flavors which was ascended by the pears sweetness.

The “Omija and olive oil” made from a Korean berry has a soothing bitterness that refreshes the palate. Dessert of Neufchatel cheesecake, dry-aged persimmon and cocoa nibs was a refined version of the cheese cake yet not as rich. Honeyed persimmon sauce with cocoa was cleverly use as a sweetener. Surprisingly, this was the only dessert in this particular evening. To end the meal were Shinko pear, sweet rice cake, a fantastic chilled rice tea and a toasted mint.

At Benu, the tasting menu of fourteen or so small courses were served in different paces. The “small delicacies” in the beginning were brought out in rapid succession while the other courses arrived in a slower manner. This was an impressive dinner that showcased highly technical cookery, and perfectly executed food with sophisticated Asian flavors. There were traditional Asian dishes that were brilliantly recreated and refined. Beverage pairing was designed by Master Sommelier, Yoon Ha (one of only two hundred fifty master sommelier in the world) priced at $210 and comprised of eight glasses of wines, beer and sake. It also include a pour of Blandy’s 1973 Verdelho retailed at $220. The pairing rightfully complements the different flavor elements of each dish.

Though the restaurant had a relaxing vibe, it still had the fine dining finesse and professionalism. Its young staff worked the dining room impeccably. They were well-trained, full of energy, and polite. Service was particularly attentive yet not overbearing. The chefs that also served the food were equally oriented and friendly as the servers.

Wine Pairing:

Dinner here is pricey and to many it’s a once in a life time experience. The complete meal with wine pairing plus tax and service charge makes Benu one of the most expensive restaurant in America. What justifies the high price tag is a dining experience that can be easily be the finest any one can ever have.

After leaving the confines of the French Laundry, Chef Lee became one of America’s top toque and flourished as a restaurateur. In addition to Benu, he also has the one Michelin star In Situ and the French bistro Monseiur Benjamin. All three restaurants were a success in their own rights. But his flagship Benu, is a special San Francisco dining destination and is among the preeminent restaurant currently in the country.

 

The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion

The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion
15 Elm St.
Mystic, CT 06355
(860) 245-4621
Website

Mystic, Connecticut is a charming small town in New England within driving distance from New York City. To be exact, the travel time is less than three hours. It makes an ideal weekend escape away from the hustles and bustle of New York City. This town is known for its seaport, the aquarium, and Mystic Pizza; a pizzeria popularized by a 1988 movie starring Julia Roberts. It also has a developing dining scene that was notice by the Boston Globe. The newspaper published an article last September on the growing restaurant community in Mystic and how it is slowly becoming a foodie town.

The Historic Downtown is where most of the restaurant are concentrated. The one that peaked my interest was The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion, located up the hill on a residential street, and a seven minute walk from the main drag. Spicer Mansion is a luxurious eight room hotel, and a Relais & Chateuax member property. The restaurant is the only one in Connecticut to received four stars from Forbes travel guide.

Built in 1853 as a summer home by renowned ship captain Elihu Spicer, the mansion had sadly fallen to despair until the Gates family purchased the property in 2003. It underwent an extensive renovation. Some of its old motif was kept while also giving the interior a fresh new look. All eight rooms were modernized, a dining room was added, the basement was turned in to a speakeasy bar called Room 9 Speakeasy, and the top floor was converted to a lounge.

The dining room is bright and refreshing. The interior is welcoming with colors of  white and light grey pattern against the dark wooden fixtures for  contrast. Rectangular tables covered in crispy white cloth on top of burlap sack are paired with comfortable benches. The walls are decorated with framed oil paintings, and an oversized Persian rug covers most of the wood flooring.

A set menu and a six course tasting menu priced at $130 are the dining options. On my visit, I had the tasting menu that began with a terrific amuse bouche of Wagyu tartare with truffle aioli. This bite-size snack was great way to make an impression.

The first course was the Pan Seared Bombster Scalllop-preserved cucumber, pickled mustard seeds, sunflower seeds.  The top layer of the scallop was seared a bit too much, and was almost burned. What a pity, since I like the thought and the taste of the scallop and its deep sea sweetness with the different sour and pickled notes on the plate. The next course was the Pan Seared Foie Gras – quince, brioche crouton, honey comb, which overall, could have been better. The foie gras was over cooked and dry. A would-have-been great combination of richness from the foie gras, the honey comb sweetness and the quince citric zing if executed properly.

The first two dishes were a let-down so far but all was not lost. My meal was redeemed by the remaining courses starting with the Squash & Wild Mushroom Risotto-grana padano, shaved squash, autumn leaf smoked walnuts.  The creamy risotto had a nice sweetness to it. The mushroom imparted an enticing earthiness while the walnuts added crunch to the texture; all the while, also rendering a touch of nuttiness with a smoky element. This was the best dish of the tasting.

For the main course I was served the Roasted Venison-Blueberry Compote, sweet potato hash, baby fennel pistachio. The plating could have used a little refinement, but as far as the dish itself, it was excellent. Lean venison was sous vide then roasted, creating a wonderful tenderness and flavor. In addition, there was also some delightful ground venison meat mingling with other ingredients. Giving the dish a nice touch of sweet berry tartness were drops of blueberry compote.

The cheese course Grand Formage-dried fruits, house mustard, pickles and bread. I trusted the recommendation of my server who chose two different types of cheese locally sourced from New England which surprisingly were very good.

Prior to dessert, I was presented with a cup of hot apple cider from Mystic’s very own Clyde’s Apple Cider Mill.It was fitting for the cold evening.  Dessert was the Butternut Squash Ice Cream-gingersnap, brown butter, roasted pears, maple. The ice cream distinctively tasted like a butternut squash, and the roasted pear was a pleasant fruity cohort. Serving as sweetener were dehydrated caramel and crumbs of ginger snap cookies which is also being used for textures. This well-rounded dessert dish has a cold fruity, and sugary features that works together. For the finale a gelatin with a subtle sweetness was served.

The disappointment was hard to hide since I really wanted to like this meal as a whole. The food had an interesting concept and different flavor elements that complements one another. But it simply lacks the execution which is such a shame, since the kitchen is capable in doing so, shown with the risotto, venison and the dessert. The presentation also needed a little bit of refinement. On the other hand, the $95 wine pairing consisting of six glasses did its job.

I find the staff at Spicer Mansion to be genuinely welcoming and eager to please. The same can be said to those who work in the restaurant. The dining room has trained servers that are well informed and their undivided attention is focus on the diner. Service is a definite strong point of this property.

When Spicer Mansion opened, OHM Hotel Management Inc. managed the operation and assigned one of their own in the kitchen. The cooking at the restaurant was received with positive review. Media outlets like the luxury lifestyle magazine Robb Report, did a write up calling The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion as the answer to French Laundry in the east coast. However,  when the owner ended the contract with the management company,there has been multiple chef changes, which more than likely led to the inconsistency of the kitchen.

Wine Pairing:

During my stay at the Spicer Mansion, I saw the owner Brian Gates quite a few times lingering in the property. At dinner he came by my table while I was in between courses and chatted a bit. He mentioned why he purchased the mansion, his future plans and why he decided to take over the day-to-day operation. I realized that he is a hands on owner who wants to truly provide a complete experience for every guest.  As much as I was disappointed with my dinner, I see the potential of the restaurant.  If I am ever around the area, I would certainly visit The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion again.

 

 

 

Elske *

Elske
1350 W Randolph St,
Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 733-1314
Website

Last year, Chicago’s West Loop welcomed the Danish-inspired restaurant, Elske. Located along W Randolph Street, this was a great addition to a neighborhood with a bustling dining scene. As one of the most awaited opening in 2016, the restaurant did not disappoint. It was voted number two in Bon Appetite Best New Restaurant in 2017, a three star review from Chicago Tribune, and most recent accolade, a Michelin star. The owners are husband and wife David and Anna Posey who both worked at the Michelin starred Blackbird in Chicago. Prior to opening Elske, David held the position of chef de cuisine at Blackbird while Anna was a pastry chef at Publican.

The restaurant’s expansive space seats about fifty guests, and has large store front windows that looks out to the street. The dining room has uncovered dark wooden communal tables, walls of exposed brick, and smooth concrete for floors. At the front is the bar area located next to the open kitchen. On a good day, an outdoor space with a fire place doubles up as an additional dining space.

Elske has an a la carte menu that is inexpensive. There are no plates over $24. In addition, an affordable $85 tasting menu is quite appealing to my pocket, which is what perpetuated my visit.

The tasting menu started with Tea of lightly smoked fruits and vegetables, which was a cup of tea infused with subtle smoked vegetables and fruits flavors. This was followed by Broccoli and amaranth fritter with spicy date jams. A single crunchy bite of grainy fritter boasts a dynamic duo of both sweet and spicy. Duck liver tart with salted ramp and buckwheat was next. The decadent tart teases nice hints of brininess with a touch of bitterness.

The meal continued with an interesting dish called, Chilled zucchini and buttermilk cream with braised pistachio, blueberries and elder, which were thinly sliced chilled zucchinis blanketed in thick cream. The cream has a mixture of sour, sweet, and nuttiness that worked superbly with the zucchini’s cold element. Roasted sturgeon with fried artichoke, caviar and lovage came afterwards. The sturgeon was roasted impeccably, it was tender and moist. The lovage sauce with caviar provided the saltiness, elevating the fish, while the fried artichoke makes fine accompaniment.

Grilled Vegas strip steak with braised dandelion greens, smoked beef and roasted marrow was the main course. The steak was scrumptious, packed with flavors, and has delightful presence of smokiness. Adding richness to the dish, was the roasted bone marrow consommé.

Frozen fennel jelly with mint followed the main dish. This concoction was a tongue soothing cube of jelly mint that helps rinse the palate off savory remnants. For dessert, Roasted peach sorbet, frozen yogurt, rose and bitter almonds was served. The peach sorbet went perfectly well with the yogurt, creating a pleasant blend of cold fruitiness and sourness. The garnished of dehydrated rose petal added texture.

Needless to say, this was quite the enjoyable meal. The dishes were creative and refined using cooking techniques that are evident of experienced chefs. The flavor combination was unique but made sense as it rightfully complemented each other.  Though the restaurant served “New American” cuisine with Danish influence, I find that the flavor profile leans more towards Nordic. The wine pairing was also decently priced at $45, and comprised of five glasses. It was mostly European wines with the exception of the red wine paired with the steak, which came from California.

Wine Pairing:

After dining at the three Michelin starred Grace the previous night, I wanted something informal and relaxing. Elske was the right place. I had an early dinner on this particular visit and was seated at the bar. The bartender that evening was genuinely friendly and conversant. When I started my meal there were a few tables occupied but as the night progressed, the dining room and bar filled up fairly quick. Despite the sudden influx of patrons at this time, the service did not falter.

There is a growing number of restaurants opening up in the past few years that offers quality food in strip down settings. From Paris to New York, this type of dining trend has been well received by the masses. In Chicago, such restaurant came in the form of Elske where I was treated with fine dining fare without the prentious atmosphere.

 

Grace ***

Grace
652 W Randolph St
Chicago IL 60661
(312) 234-9494
Website

*The restaurant abruptly closed on December 19, 2017.

Along with New York City and San Francisco, Chicago is hailed as one of dining capital in the US. The city has a total of 25 Michelin starred restaurants sprinkled throughout. At the epicenter is the neighborhood of West Loop. With an abundance of great places to eat and drink, the neighborhood’s culinary excellence is anchored by the three Michelin starred, Grace.

Grace was opened in 2012 by co-owners head chef Curtis Duffy and GM/sommelier Michael Muser. At that time, it was by far the most ambitious and most anticipated restaurant openings in Chicago, as well as in the country. The restaurant was immediately awarded two Michelin stars after a few month of opening. A year later in 2013, Grace was elevated to three stars, a status it has maintained ever since. The restaurant has since received other accolades in such a short span, adding merits such as the four-star review from the Chicago-Tribune, Forbes Five Stars and AAA Five Diamonds.

Chef Curtis Duffy can easily boast a robust kitchen experience working in some of Chicago’s top restaurants. He once worked with the late Charlie Trotter at his eponymous restaurant before moving on to Trio, cooking alongside Chicago’s most decorated chef, Grant Achatz. In 2004, he was recruited by Chef Achatz as the opening sous-chef of the critically acclaimed Alinea. After a few years there, he took on the head chef position at Avenues in the Peninsula Hotel where he also met his future business partner Michael Muser. At Avenues, Chef Duffy cooking reportoire was awarded two Michelin stars.

The restaurant resides along the strip of W. Randolph Street where some of Chicago’s best dining venues are also located. Grace unassuming façade of rusted steel with glass doors opens directly to the hostess table. A short hallway leads to a muted and windowless dining room with tones of neutral colors. It is dimly lit by hanging decanter lights and the floors are cover in thick carpets, which helps dampen the noise. In the dining room are identical oversize round table draped in grey cloth, cream leather chairs, handsome blond wood panel walls, and a glass enclosed kitchen. The columns in the middle are nicely incorporated with its modern interior.

Fauna:

There were only two dining option at Grace, the vegetable centric “Flora,” and the meat and seafood “Fauna,” which were both priced at $235. I had the latter which began with an array of small bites on a plate made from beeswax. Consisting of Iberian ham, beets, chickpea and yuzu gummy, these small bites were a very good start to this meal.

For the first course, GUINEA HEN-ramp, radish, chive blossom was presented in a yogurt glass cup sealed in foil, and when opened it releases an enticing smoky aroma. I was instructed to lick the other side of the lid which was spread with a zesty coconut cream. The glass was stuffed with guinea hen pate infused with a wonderful smokiness in company of radish, ramps, scallions and coconut cream.

ALASKAN KING CRAB-sudachi, cucumber, lemon mint was next. Served on a martini tumbler glass, it has a crystalized sugar in the middle separating the ingredients. At the bottom of the glass are pieces of delicious crab meat in cumber juice. Breaking the crystalized sugar mixes all the ingredients, creating a fantastic balance of flavors. There was also a distinct peppery note that blended perfectly.

Third course was the BAY SCALLOPS-white poppy, romaine, nasturtium. Meaty scallops were ultra-fresh and sweet. Rich milky sauce from white poppy seeds elevated the scallops by providing an extra layer of flavor. That was followed by an extra dish from the Flora menu, CARROT-green strawberry, hazelnut, amaranth. This vegetarian plate has so much going on. It has an earthiness coming from the carrot, some nuttiness from the hazel nuts, citric features from the orange sauce, and a refreshing acidity from green strawberries. Yet, they all managed to come together in harmony.

The meal proceeded with PORK- gnudi, porcini, spinach. The nicely braised pork was topped with crispy red cabbage and spinach. A piece of gnudi on the side was a pleasant accompaniment to this dish. Afterward the SQUAB-beet, fig, endive was served. The flavorful squab meat was extra tender, moist with a beautiful pink middle. And, complementing it was a vibrant thick beets puree with a honey like sweetness.

For the main course, MIYAZAKI BEEF – grains, hon shimeji, kaffir lime was a pure luxury. Miyazaki beef is one the finest on the planet and it was cooked impeccably here. Each bite melts eloquently in the mouth like a cotton candy. There are hints of nutty and citrus element in the background that paired accordingly with the beef.

Prior to dessert, the BLOOD ORANGE- vanilla, tangerine lace was the palate cleanser. The chilled blood orange yields a soothing citrus tang with a nice touch of vanilla cream. Dessert was HUCKLEBERRY- honey, fenugreek, basil, huckleberry ice cream has a nice sweet sourness while other components provide an interesting peppery and minty combination. This was refreshing and fruity at the same time. Next was the CASHEW- cocoa, crème fraîche, Hoja Santa, which was a plate of chocolaty pleasure. The chocolate came in mouse, jelly and cake form and the hoja santa was featured as a sorbet, cream drops and leaves. The assortments of rich chocolate sweetness, herbal essence and savory tartness were put wonderfully together. Lastly a green sphere served on wooden rocker pops with chilled honey dew liquid inside the mouth. It was a refreshing finish to this meal.

The “Fauna” was a terrific tasting menu that showcased the restaurant’s ability and the technical cooking prowess. Using quality and luxurious ingredients sourced both globally and locally, the kitchen creates food that is complex and light. They were able to successfully marry different elements on the plate to create a unique myriad of taste. Every dish was artfully conceived, full of colors and pleasing to look at. Additionally, the $125 wine pairing comprise of nine glasses of predominantly European wines were perfectly designed to add an enriching after taste with every course.

There is a hushed atmosphere in dining room. It is so quiet that you can hear the pin drop, and even the staff spoke in low clear tone. The service was formal throughout my meal, but managed to loosen up from time to time. They handled each table flawlessly and were significantly in tune with one another. Their attention to detail and awareness was incomparable. Providing an exceptional dining experience to each guest was expertly performed by the staff.

Wine Pairing:

Chicago dining has gotten better throughout the years, the city was voted as Bon Appetite best restaurant city in 2016. At the top spot are the three Michelin starred Alinea and Grace. Though Alinea gets majority of the praise, Grace on the other hand has been making a name for itself since opening in 2013. My visit at this restaurant was outstanding in every aspect. The food and the service were equally magnificent, a true tale sign of what greatness represents.

The documentary “For Grace” chronicled the process of opening the restaurant and the challenges that Chef Duffy and Mr. Muser had to face. In the opening scene, Chef Duffy talks about his goal to make Grace as one of best the restaurant in the country. Along with Mr. Muser they had achieved that goal in such a short time. Grace rightfully sits among the great restaurants in the US.