Tag: Scandinavia

Gastrologik **

Gastrologik
Artillerigatan 14, 114 51
Stockholm, Sweden
+46 8 662 30 60
Website

Write up was based on pre-pandemic visit.*

Popularized by the mainstream food media, “sustainability” has been echoing within the restaurant industry these past several years. The Worlds 50 Best Restaurant list has a yearly winner for The Sustainable Restaurant, and most recently the Michelin guide created a new designation called green clover. Meanwhile, Japan and Scandinavian countries has been practicing this long before it became a trend. In Stockholm, two-Michelin starred Gastrologik is a hundred percent sustainable. It only uses local products and  has upheld this philosophy since opening in 2016.

Owned by duo chefs Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr who worked at some of Europe’s top kitchens. Chef Jacob Holmström’s resume includes Astrance and Mathias Dahlgren, and Chef Anton Bjuhra, a pastry chef, had stints at different location of Pierre Gagnaire restaurants including the eponymous three Michelin starred in Paris. They opened Gastrologik in 2015 and was awarded a Michelin star after a year, then the second came in 2019. The restaurant has since ranked highly by the Nordic White Guide and has been widely considered one of the finest dining venue in Sweden. 

Located in the Stockholm Östermalm section of the city on a quiet residential street, Gastrologik’s non-descript façade is easy to miss. The restaurant’s small Swedish designed dining room is serene. The walls are awash in clean white, while the floors are adorned with oak wood. Windows are covered in thin curtains, allowing ample of natural light to enter. Tables are covered in thick white cloth with soft lighting from copper lamps dropping from the ceiling. There are modern Scandinavian Windsor chairs and comfortable leather caramel brown benches that ran along the wall. An open kitchen with a counter made from copper counter at the back where the food is prepared looks directly out to the dining room.

Gastrologik is only open for dinner and offered one tasting menu for the evening priced at 1800 SEK (at the time of my visit). Dinner started with Honokaka with fennel flowers, a Swedish flat bread served warm. That was followed immediately with a cup of Hay broth which has robust flavor that helps awaken the palate. Chicken liver, meringue and apple was an airy brittle meringue with layers of sweet, tart  and savory. This was extremely tasty. Then came a pair of tartlets, the King crab and carrots has an earthy sweetness coming from carrots that was perfectly paired with delicious crab meat. The other was the lumpfish roe with knackerbrod and Oviken cultured cream.  Tart crust made from rye was filled with a spoonful of lumpfish roe and sour cream, creating a terrific bite of salinity and sour richness.

On to the larger plates, the Smoke Artic char with best of the 2018 harvest was abowl of preserved vegetables such as carrots, radishes, and celery (just to name a few) with pieces of Artic char floating in a delightful translucent sauce. There were plenty of pickle sourness from the vegetables as well as some earthy bitterness from the radish that were perfectly mix with the smokiness of the Artic char. Raw Smogen shrimp with cucumber were thin cuts of cucumber enclosing raw shrimps from Smogen (a coastal town in Sweden known for their shrimp) bathed in coriander sauce. This was a fascinating  dish elevated by coriander sauce’s citric features.

Continuing on with  Alesund langoustine with algeas and fennel, meaty langoustine from Alesund Norway was tender and has a crusted charred outer layer that gave it a pleasant burnt taste. The langoustine is resting on a bed of cream and thin tortilla made from sea vegetations. I was instructed to roll the tortilla with everything in it and eat like a taco. Next, the Crispy pancake with grilled herb stems which looks more like a tart than a pancake. It has grilled herbs that exudes wonderful herbal aromas, while the onion cream with smoked butter it sat on gave the pancake an extra layer of flavor.

Sourdough bread made from Warbro kvarn spelt with hand churned butter from Kittelberget was served before the next course of Oyster from Adrian with nettles and wild chervil.  The Grilledoyster was drenched in vibrant green sauce made from nettles and wild chervil.  The sauce has a pleasant tanginessthat went extremely well with the brininess of the oyster. Served on the shell, was the Diver caught Icelandic bay scallop with eldel flower miso and mussel dashi. Herethesweetness of the scallop was sublimely complemented by the sharp mussel dashi. Tiny slices of dikon radish blanketing the scallop provided the texture.

The Sole with rockweed buds, fish eggs and yellow pea-shoots was a tender piece of fish blanketed in butter sauce. There were plenty of salinity on the sole that was nicely subdued by the  butter sauce. Another fish dish, Roefish with ramson and ox marrow came after. The scales were extra crispy and the fish itself was dainty and moist.  The smoke ox marrow yieleded a fantastic smoky and savory component on the plate. A lone red meat on this tasting menu was the Beetroot with wild roses and grilled lamb heart -lamb jus. Beetroot shaped like a rose contains an earthy bitterness that goes well with the delightful grilled lamb heart. Surprisingly the lamb heart did not have any traces of gameyness that are common in this type of meat. The flavor pack lamb jus added depth to the dish.

Rhubarb from Lilla Laback with lactic fermented plums was brought to the table prior to dessert. This icy refreshing palate cleanser has a touch of bitterness that helps removed all savory traits from the taste buds.  Dessert was composed of three dishes starting with the Spruce resin with crispy lichens and cloudberries, which has the right amount of sweetness and has beautiful floral elements to it as well as some tartness. The subtle bitter taste from the ice cream help bring this dish together. The Pancakes with Swedish punch and lingonberries was covered in caramel syrup topped off with a Swedish punch ice cream. The liquor in the ice cream helps curbed the sugary sweetness of the syrup while the lingonberries added a touch sourness.  Lastly apple, caramel and pollen pie was served as the final desert. The pie from pollen was filled with fermented apples giving it strong apple sweetness with an affable tang and balanced by a delicious blanket of cream. I was led back to the lounge for a post dinner drinks and more sweets were served like the lingonberry and black garlic fudge.

Gastrologik tasting was a phenomenal lengthy ordeal consisting of numerous seafood, heavy, and small plates. Cooking was creative and skillful as each course was thoughtfully crafted composed of different flavors that were both unique and interesting. And by using only local and regional ingredients that is in season, this allows the kitchen to get them at their maximum peak. Chef Holmström was at the restaurant during this visit and his presence was shown on every plate that was brought to the table. There was a 1200 SEK beverage pairing comprised of five glasses of red and white European wines with an exception of Herno Gin, a domestic spirit distilled in Sweden paired with main dish. The carefully curated alcoholic beverages wonderfully complemented every single dish that it was paired with.

Wine Pairing:

The staff at Gastrologik were hospitable and pleasant. Chef Holmström himself was at the front of restaurant greeting guest as they come in. The service was informal however the professionalism was still on displayed. Its well-trained staff were full of passion especially when explaining the ingredients and the concept that made up the dishes. The ambiance in the dining room is calm and relaxing. A guest visiting wearing jeans and untucked button-down shirt will not be out of place.

Like any other top restaurant in Scandinavia, especially the Michelin starred ones, Gastrologik is expensive. The meal with wine paring is in the upward of $350 range. However, if one can spare the cost, the cooking is a strong two stars and the uniqueness and the concept of the food at this restaurant makes it worth the price tag.   There are many similarities Gastrologik has with the three Michelin starred Frantzen. They were both owned by two chefs who trained at some of the most prestigious kitchen in Europe and both  ascended to two star level in short period of time.  Perhaps it will follow the same path to three-star stardom. But hopefully unlike Frantzen when they obtained the coveted third star, the duo of chef Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr will still be together

Frantzén ***

Frantzén
Klara Norra kyrkogata 26, 111 22
Stockholm, Sweden
+46 8 20 85 80
Website

Though its the most populous city of all the Nordic countries with close to a million people, Sweden’s capital Stockholm is often over shadowed by its more famous neighbor Copenhagen in Denmark as the regions culinary hot bed. However, Stockholm has terrific dining scenes that boast a collection of word class restaurants and Michelin starred places including the three starred  Frantzén. The restaurant holds the title as the very first in Sweden to received the highest award from Michelin guide, and one of only three in Scandinavia with this honor. In the list for Worlds 50 Best Restaurant 2019,  Frantzén occupies the twenty first place.

Frantzén is the namesake restaurant of  chef and owner Bjorn Frantzén who at one time was a professional footballer before hanging his cleats for the apron. Chef Frantzén worked at some of the finest kitchen in Europe like Chez Nico and La Tainte Claire in London, Arpege in Paris, and  Edsbacka krog in Sweden, the first two Michelin starred restaurant in the country. In 2008, he opened the restaurant as Frantzén /Lindberg with then partner and pastry chef Daniel Lindberg (whom he met at Arpege) in Gamla Stan “Old Town”of Stockholm. They received the first Michelin star in 2009 and the second followed a year after. When Chef Lindberg left in 2013, the restaurant was renamed to Frantzén and maintained the two star status until closing in 2016. Chef Frantzén re-opened the restaurant after a year of closure at a much larger space occupying an entire building in downtown Stockholm. Within five months of operation it was awarded the ultimate three Michelin stars.  Under his Frantzén Group, he also owns the two Michelin starred Zen in Singapore, Bobergs Matsal in Stockholm, and Frantzén Kitchen in Hong Kong. Other projects are also soon to open in Asia.

Obtaining a reservation at Frantzén can be daunting task especially with the time difference in the US. But having a flexible schedule, I was able to snag a lunch time reservation. The Frantzén experience started as soon as I rang the door bell.  Within seconds a friendly staff welcomed me and  was immediately ushered to the elevator after my reservation was confirmed. As I ascended, “Enter the Sand” was blaring through the speakers in the elevator.  When I reached the top floor there is lounge area with a distinctively Scandinavian designed complete with multi-colored plush chairs.  I made my way to my seat and was presented with a series of of small bites.

First to arrive was the White beer croustade-cold smoked pike-perch,wild trout roe,shiro kombu, Japanese mustard, followed by the Grape macaroon-whipped foie gras, condensed port wine, Danish rye and hibiscus. Then there was the  “raraka”, a Swedish delicacy made from potato pancake and salmon roe that was given a certain refinement. The potato pancake was shaped into a cylinder and filled with cream and salmon roe.  Finally, to finish was a tart of Celeriac – preserved truffle, argan oil, nutmeg and Swedish maple syrup. These small snacks were a great preview of what was to come.

I was asked by one of the staff to come by the counter in the back part of the lounge to be shown the fresh and luxurious ingredients that will be used for my meal. Afterwards I was escorted down one flight of stairs into a small kitchen used to prepare the small snacks then into dining room where the chef de cuisine introduce himself  before being seated at the counter. The dining room features an open kitchen behind the thick wooden “L” shape counter with high chairs that were surprisingly comfortable. Only fifteen guest  can be accommodated at the counter, but there are also a limited number of tables available for group dining.  

Frantzén offers one tasting menu at 3200 (at the time of my visit) SEK for both lunch and dinner and consisted of twelve or more courses. The first course of Crudo-scallop, salted tomato and plum water, fermented anchovy, horseradish and purple radish was beautifully presented on a crystal bowl. The mixture of radishes and their different types of spiciness gracefully complemented the subtle sweetness of the raw scallop. Also on this bowl was a medley of salinity, tart, and pickleness that brightly comes together.

Next was the Langoustine-crsipy rice (koshihikari) and clarified butter. The langoustine was deliciously juicy and had a perfect coating of crispiness created by the batter of crispy rice. Served on the side was the clarified butter cream dip with green onion powder which was absolutely flavorful on its own. However having it together with the langoustine was magical.

Chawanmushi-Frantzén prestige caviar, aged pork broth,  warm egg custard layered with pork broth then topped off with caviar had a delightful contrast of warm and cold.  An element of saltiness from the caviar elevated this custard to another level of decadence. The Chawanmushi was accompanied by a terrific crispy pork skin sprinkled with seaweed powder.   The meal continued with Splendid alfonsino, ripe yuzu kosho beurre blanc, uni “XO” and sea buckthorn oil. Splendid alfonsino, Kinmedai in Japanese or also known as golden eye snapper was extremely moist and delicately tasty. Its scales were masterfully fried for an extra crispy texture. Enhancing the fish was the watery sauce that contains butter with hints of spiciness and lime.

What followed  after was the Monkfish- fermented muhroom broth, pea miso, hazelnut oil and Jerusalem artichoke.  The dense monkfish meat was given a nice charred outer crust while the mushroom broth supplied a beautiful earthiness to it. An artichoke puree that fish sat on was a great addition. Onion,liquorice,almond… a cup of of onion soup covered with almond foam and cream of liquorice was made using only three ingredients. It contains a very distinct onion taste that harmoniously blend with the almonds and the sweetness of liquorice. For much needed texture crushed almonds were added. What a glorious dish that sound simple yet so complex.   

Then came the Frantzén signature dish which has been on the menu since 2008,  French toast “grand tradition 2008”, truffle, “vacche rosse” and vinegar aged on juniper wood. The French toast was assembled right in front of me. First I was shown a wooden box of black truffle then a piece of toast with cream of vacche rosse. The toast was then covered with generous shaving of truffles before finishing off with a few drops of vinegar. This luxurious French toast is full of sublime flavor that the palate thoroughly adored.

For the main course,  Spring lamb ‘’blanc de blanc”, wasabi yoghurt, toasted nori, split peas and mint. Scrumptious lamb was perfectly done, it was soft and enormously moist with a wonderful pink middle. Wasbai yogurt and its chilled herbal spiciness was a pleasant companion to the lamb. There are traces of mint scattered all over which brought a refreshing element on the plate.

Dessert was the Buttermilk- and sour rhubarb pumpkin seed praline,saffron sabayone, umeshu and wild strawberries. It was creamy and custardy. There were hints of  sourness coming from the rhubarb and fruity sweetness from the strawberries. Next was the Frozen Marshmallow,  a marshmallow ice cream that was simply refreshing filled with mint and citrus. Not as sweet as I thought it would be. I returned to lounge where I started to finish the meal with freshly baked Madellines (still warm when served) and a collections of sweets that consist of macaroons, chocolates and candies including a fascinating garlic candy that left a lasting impression.   

Impeccable is best describe the meal at Frantzén.  There was not a single plate on the tasting menu that failed to impress. Its kitchen exhibit superior cooking skills that was on display on every dish. The food was intricate, well thought out with heavy Japanese influence and plenty of light clean flavors.

Wine parings is available along with juice paring which is commonly offered in Scandinavia’s top restaurant. In this part of the continent, wine mark up can be excessive so I decided to pair this tasting menu with a mixture of alcoholic beverage and juices for a more economical value. This was a request that the restaurant gladly accommodate and I first learned can be done if asked when I visited Geranium in Copenhagen years ago. The alcoholic beverages were a collection of sake, European and US wines while the juices were creatively crafted from fruits and herbs. Both gracefully complemented each course.

Wine Pairing:

Frantzén evokes the well-known Scandinavian friendliness. The staff were young full of smile and welcoming. Though it is fine dining, the atmosphere at the restaurant was informal. But the service was still professional. In addition to the servers, the chefs that prepared the food behind the counter also serves them. They were both very informative and clearly explained each courses in great details.   

As a Nordic restaurant Frantzén defies the ethos of New Nordic cuisine which utilized foraging the bounty of the region. Instead they rather sourced the finest and luxurious ingredients that money can buy. It is indeed expensive to dine here which was expected for this type of restaurant in Scandinavia. But if one can afford it they are in for a great dining experience. 

There are many world class restaurants out there today but there are only a select few that really sit on the top of the echelon. And Frantzén is deservingly among them. This is a dining establishment that delivers and exceeded what is expected. Chef Frantzén has created a restaurant that is a worth a special trip and a must-visit when in Stockholm. Clearly Frantzén is one of the best in my book.

Geranium ***

Geranium
Per Henrik Lings Allé 4
2100 København Ø, Denmark
+45 69 96 00 20
Website

Denmark’s capital, Copenhagen, is high on the list as the best city to eat on earth. The birthplace of New Nordic cuisine, and home to numerous world celebrated restaurants, also has the highest concentration of Michelin starred places in the region. The city was hailed as the gastronomic capital of Scandinavia. In 2016 when the Michelin guide promoted the restaurant Geranium to three stars, it further solidified the city’s status.

Geranium is the first and only three Michelin-starred restaurant in Denmark. It also claimed the top spot in the Nordic White Guide 2017/18, and currently ranked number 19 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list. With all the awards, the path to greatness was challenging for co-owners head chef Rasmus Kofoed, and Soren Ledet, the wine/restaurant director. They opened the restaurant in 2007 and was awarded a Michelin star a year later, but bankruptcy of an investor led to its closure. In 2010, the duo re-opened Geranium at its current location and regained the Michelin star in 2012. The second star came the following year and finally the third star in 2016.

Aside from the Michelin accolades, Chef Kofoed was the only person to win bronze, silver and gold at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or competition (the trophies are proudly displayed in the restaurants lounge area), and was voted Danish Chef of the year in 2003. He is arguably the most decorated chef in Denmark. His culinary career started at Copenhagen’s Hotel D’Angleterre before embarking to Belgium’s two-Michelin starred Scholeshof. After coming back to Denmark Chef Koefed took the reigns at the now closed two Michelin-starred Kommandanten (the first restaurant in Denmark to hold multiple stars), and held various head chef position in the city. His final stop before Geranium was the head chef position of Hotel D’Angleterre. Mr. Ledet on the other hand, was a former chef at noma turned sommelier. He curated Geraniums award-winning wine list that was recognized by Wine Spectator.

The restaurant is housed on the 8th floor of the Tiel Parken stadium, which is also home to FC Copenhagen, the most successful football club in the nation. Geraniums floor to ceiling windows provide a panoramic view of the surrounding area. The interior is stylish and strictly Scandinavian with white and gray color scheme. The open concept dining room is slated with natural wood floorings, neatly dressed oversize round tables, and custom made Danish-designed chairs and benches. There is an open kitchen in the front of the dining room giving diners a theatric aspect and direct view of Chef Koefed and his chefs in action.

A seasonal “Geranium Universe” tasting menu cost 2000 DKK (750 DKK deposit to confirm the reservation) is offered both lunch and dinner, which consist of fifteen plus courses.

To start, I was served a decadent custard of Lobster Milk, Juice from Fermented Carrots & Sea Buckthorn. The custard has layers of sweet, savory, and vinegary essence that comes together in harmony. At the bottom, are delicious pieces of lobster meat. Next, was the Jerusalem Artichoke Leaves, Hazel Nut Oil & Rye Vinegar. A pair of crispy chips shaped like a leaf from Jerusalem artichoke, and served with a tasty mayonnaise dip from hazel nut and rye vinegar.  That was followed by the “Razor Clams” with Mineral & Sour Cream. This ingeniously constructed edible razor clam made from wheat and squid ink, was delightfully filled with chopped raw razor clams, sour cream, tarragon and parsley.

Then came the, Tomato Water, Ham Fat and Aromatic Herbs. This was a small cup of tomato water served with a spoon filled with herbs and petals. The tomato water has incredible robust flavors. Mixing the herbs with the tomato water, as instructed by my server, releases the elegant aromatics of the dish. The “Dillstone” Trout, Horse Radish & Frozen Juice from Pickle Dill was a brilliantly conceived dish. Coated in dill and shaped to replicate a stone, the humble trout was elevated, and given a certain refinement. The chilled bitterness of the horse radish with pickle dill was the rightful cohort to the dill stone. The Nettles, Smoked Cheese & Dried Oyster had  rich smoky features, as well as having a clear oyster presence.

After six terrific appetizers, it was time to move on to the main dishes. The first course was a seasonal Danish delicacy; Smoked Lumpfish Roe & Fermented Creamy Cauliflower. The subtle lumpfish roe was given a touch of smokiness that went very well with the sharpness of the fermented cauliflower cream. Salted Hake, Parsley Stems & Finnish Caviar in Buttermilk was the second course, and also Geranium’s signature dish. This had delicate flavors that were heightened with the saltiness of the caviar. The buttermilk gave it the perfect hint of creaminess, while the fried fish scales provided the crunchy textures. Next was an enjoyable bread course of Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains & Gluten Free Bread with Seeds. Two types of bread and cheese sticks served with homemade butter.

The meal continued with the Scallop in Juniper Aroma, Flippa Reduction & Browned Butter.  Prepared table side by Chef Koefed himself, the scrumptious scallop marine’s sweetness was magnificently lifted by the broth’s nuttiness.  Lightly Salted Turbot, Green Herbs, Celeriac & Pickel Pine was a tender piece of mildly seasoned fish with a nicely seared outer layer. In harmony with the turbot was the pleasant tartness of the celeriac sauce. The vibrant herbs and its vegetal essence balanced all the component on the plate.  The following course was Tartlet with Fjord Shrimp, Sol & Pickled Elder Flowers, a tart filled with crispy shrimps, herbs and flowers comes with very good flavors. The final main course was the Stuffed Morels, Wild Mushrooms, Smoked Chicken Fat & Hops. The profound earthiness of the mushrooms and morels were combined exquisitely with savory lushness from the consommé of smoke chicken fat.

Prior to dessert I was given a tour of the restaurant. We started in the lounge area, which was separated by a marble center island table with an enclosed fire place, before proceeding to their wine storage. We continued to their private dining area, where we sampled in-house cured meats. I made my way to the back kitchen that looks down on the football pitch, before exiting to the dining room.

Back to my table, dessert began with A Bite of Beetroot, Blackcurrant, Yoghurt & Tagetes; a tiny ball caramelized in beets had a soothing sweetness while also having a lingering liquorish sourness. Served in pair, were the Ice Cream from Beeswax & Pollen, Dried Apples and Elderberries. The ice cream had a beautiful refreshing natural sweetness, while the bowl with dried apples and elderberries had a pleasing fruity dulcet.  For the final dessert, I was served the Caramel With Roasted Grains, Chamomile & Pear.  On the plate was a rich puffy mousse sweetened by caramel syrup, which was fittingly accompanied by grainy sweetness of the pear.

I opted to have the mignardises at the lounge where I was served Pumpkin Tree & Cake With Pumpkin Seed Oil, Caramel, Dried Plum Juice & Aromatic Seeds, Chocolate with Oats & Sea Buckthorn, Marshmallow with Rose Hip and Green Egg with Pine.  I had these confectionary delights with a cup of fresh Danish latte, carefully brewed in-front of me.

After fifteen or so courses and four hours later, the culinary marathon was sadly came to an end. This was an amazing meal that had plenty of unique and intricate flavor combinations, with different textures. One course after another continued to excite the palate while also appealing visually. The cooking focused and precise down to the very smallest details, and the use of local seasonal ingredients was remarkable. Chef Kofoed’s repertoire that won him numerous culinary accolades, and made him one of the top toques in the world was on display on my visit.

As with any place in Copenhagen wine marked up is ridiculously out of this world. It was no different at Geranium where the wine pairing cost 1500 DKK ($210). While there was a cheaper juice pairing, the restaurant was happy to accommodate my request of a mixture of wines and juice pairing for a lesser value at 1000 DKK. Having the best of both options, the juice pairing of Green Apples &Elderflower, Gooseberries, Sunflower Seeds & Tarragon and Cloudberry were creative and fascinating, especially with how their sweetness complemented the food properly. The same can be said with the four glasses of European wines as it adds an extra after taste.

The service was sincerely friendly and particularly attentive. Though the manner of professionalism were still on display they were still able to make it fun.  I was thoroughly impressed with the young and diverse staff on how well trained they were. Everyone that brought the food to my table, from the hostess to the chefs, and wait staff were equally knowledgeable, and very much involved in providing a dining experience. As with Chef Koefed, his presence in the dining room was very much noticeable. He served, performed table side preparation, and interacted with his guests, stopping by every table every so often.

Wine Pairing:

A meal at Geranium is costly but well worth the price of admission. There is no better restaurant in Copenhagen. For years it has lived in the shadow of noma but since its closure and the arrival of the third Michelin star, Geranium has undisputedly become the top dining venue in Copenhagen.

While three Michelin stars are the highest accolades that a restaurant can achieve, not all with this honor is equally in the same caliber. Geranium, on the other hand is the Creme de la Creme of these select group and rightfully one of the very best in the world. Dining at this restaurant was epic and unforgettable and will forever be etched in memory. This was New Nordic cuisine at its finest.

Relae *

Dining Room

Relae
Jægersborggade 41
2200 København N, Denmark
+45 36 96 66 09
Official Site

Voted as the world’s best restaurant three times, the two Michelin-starred Noma single handedly brought New Nordic Cuisine to mainstream and in the process transformed Copenhagen into a gastronomic hub. The kitchen serves as a talent incubator producing an impressive list of alumni. One of its most prominent alum was Italian born chef Christian Puglisi who was the sous chef for more than two years before leaving in 2010 to open his own restaurant, Relae in Copenhagen’s trendy section of Norrebro.

Prior to Noma, Chef Puglisi worked at then three Michelin starred Taillevent in Paris, and the world renowned El Bulli in Spain. With his strong pedigree, it was no surprise that Relae was a success from day one. The restaurant was awarded a Michelin star in 201,1 and presently occupies the 39th spot of the World’s 50 Best Restaurant (it debut in 2015 at no. 45). In addition, it was crowned the International Food Made Good Champion 2016 Winner and was the recipient of the Sustainable Restaurant award in 2015 and 2016.

Relae is situated along a charming cobblestone street filled with boutique stores and coffee shops. This subterranean restaurant has an open kitchen in the front with counter seating on the side that can accommodate up to six guests. The dining room has low ceilings, white walls, linen less oak tables and Scandinavian dining chairs.

There are only two types of dinning option available, the seven course “Ralae Experience” for 895 KR and a shorter “Relea Menu” for 475 KR. I had the “Relae Experience” on my visit.

Radish and preserved strawberries kick things off. This was a piece of red radish topped with strawberries and covered in sorrel leaves. The crunchy radish and its mustardy taste were complemented nicely by the strawberry sweetness. The sorrel leaves yields a pleasant sour note. The sour dough bread with spicy olive oil was freshly baked, warm and extra-soft in the middle.

Onion and birch, was a preserved half onion in birch water. The onion has a distinct sweet oniony taste and lucid texture that was wonderfully lifted by the birch water’s clean flavor.  This was followed by Oyster, spinach & juniper; a finely chopped spinach with chunks of luscious oyster hidden beneath. Its profound maritime presence was greatly heighten by the acidity of the oyster emulsion dressing.

Next up was a cup of lumpfish roe, celeriac & almond; a Danish delicacy at their peak from January to May.  The delicate roe was brilliantly combined with the almond cream subtleness. Mussel and ramson had plenty of deep oceanic essence while also having a defined garlic undertone. Providing an extra layer of saltiness was the mussel juice. The meal continued with a humble plate of potato, parmesan and black pepper. Slice potatoes drenched with five year old melted parmesan cheese.  By absorbing the aged cheese the potatoes was subdued in its sharp tanginess to create the right balance.

Hindsholm pork and spring greens was the main course. Hindsholm pork is a  type of pork that lives twice as long as a common hog and their meat are considered to be the finest in Denmark. In this dish, the pork meat was roasted to perfection, it was succulent and extremely flavorful. The combination of raw and cooked green vegetables on the plate were a delightful addition. Served on the side, was the Buckwheat tart with pig head meat and pig mayo. The tart was ultra-rich and fatty but was pleasing at the same time.

Fresh cheese, blueberries and black olives was a buckwheat pancake folded in half stuffed with fresh cheese. This has an interesting mixture of savory and tartness that worked fittingly with each other.

Dessert came in the form of yoghurt and citrus, served cold to sooth the palate.  The yogurt was blanketed with dehydrated orange which provided texture as well as the citric flavors that complemented its sourness. To finish was the mushroom and caramel. It had an appealing earthiness that was beautiful paired with the sweet caramel.

In this tasting, the food was unfussy yet skillfully prepared and vegetable heavy. Every plate is simple looking, there were no more than four ingredients used at a time. With this minimalist approach they were able to create a unique combination of taste that my palate had never experience before. The produce and other ingredients were highly seasonal, organic and local. The same goes for their wine list which consists of naturally grown wine from continental Europe.

There are no wait staff at the restaurant, the chefs that prepare the food also serves them. The staff is completely competent and friendly. Their informal service was the perfect fit for the restaurant laid back atmosphere. In the dining room, diners enjoy their food in the music of Nas, Biggie, Jay Z and other hip hop heavyweights.

With the success of Relae, Chef Puglisi has not only become one of the most recognizable chef in Denmark, but also one of the most successful restaurateur. He established his own mini empire in Copenhagen that includes Manfred a wine bar (located directly across the street from Relae), Braest an Italian restaurant, and a bakery Maribelle which all follow Relae’s concept of sustainability. As of last year, Chef Puglisi had turned over control of his flagship to his head chef Jonathan Tam to focus on his growing numbers of restaurant and other projects. With this changing of the guard, Relae continues to thrive and progress. Chef Tam was able to maintain what his predecessor has achieved. It remains a gastronomic stop in Copenhagen for all travelling gastronomes.

Copenhagen is in the top ten most expensive city in the world. To eat and drink at their top tier restaurant, one will need to have a deep pocket while the affordable ones are still pricey compared to New York City.  The wine and spirits at any eateries are marked up brutally. It makes me wonder how people can afford such a high price tag. Relae on the other hand allows diners to experience high quality food at a reasonable price.