Tag: South Korea

Jungsik **

Jungsik
11 Seolleung-ro 158-gil, Gangnam-gu,
Seoul, 06014, South Korea
+82 2-517-4654
Official Site

Traveling food lovers can’t come to Seoul, South Korea without stopping by Jungsik, arguably the country’s most famous restaurant. Chef and owner Jungsik Yim is often called the godfather of “New Korean” cuisine, a modern take on traditional flavors that’s been sweeping the global dining scene, especially in New York City where many Michelin-starred spots now serve this style. After a visit to Mosu, booking a table at Jungsik felt like the natural next step on my dining adventure.

Chef Yim trained at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and gained experience at top restaurants like Aquavit and Bouley in New York before heading to Spain to work at Zuberoa and the three-Michelin-starred Akelarre. He opened Jungsik in Seoul in 2009, and its success led to a sister location in Tribeca, New York, which holds two Michelin stars. In Seoul, Jungsik earned its first Michelin star in the 2016 inaugural guide and picked up a second the following year, maintaining both ever since. It’s also consistently ranked on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Jungsik is located in the Gangnam district, tucked into the second floor of a multi-story building. Downstairs is Bar Jungsik, a more casual space for drinks and small bites. Upstairs, the dining room opens up with floor-to-ceiling windows, mirrored ceilings, thick carpets, velvet-padded benches, and sleek black tables — a modern and elegant setting without feeling overly stuffy.

There are several menu options at lunch, but dinner is focused on a single multi-course “Signature” menu priced at 280,000 KRW (under $200 USD). Dinner kicked off with the “BANCHAN” usually a variety of Korean side dishes, but here served as an elegant set of canapés. I was guided to eat them left to right: fresh sashimi with a pleasant bitterness, a sweet and zesty scallop tart, a beef tartare toast with black truffle that was outstanding, and a fun kimchi-cheese lollipop in squid ink. There was also a delicate soy custard topped with salty roe, beautifully fresh vegetables, and a fermented rice drink packed with flavor. It was a memorable way to set the tone for the meal.

Signature Menu:

The first course was CAVIAR, which consisted of cured jackfish topped with caviar. The fish was thinly sliced, clean, and fresh, while the vinaigrette with Korean herbs gave it a nice floral and acidic touch. The tomato jelly underneath brought out the umami, and the caviar added a luxurious salty finish.

Next was ABALONE, sourced from the waters of southern Korea, steamed perfectly for a smooth texture. It came with a lightly spicy kimchi-flavored sauce and a buttery wine reduction with hints of citrus — rich but not heavy. The SWEET SHRIMP GIMBAP a Korean classic reimagined into a crispy seaweed cylinder filled with rice, fried shrimp, and kimchi. I was instructed to dip it into shrimp powder for an extra punch of flavor. Alongside, there was a piece of soy-marinated shrimp, a great showcase of the main ingredient.

Then came the ROYAL BIBIMBAP. While bibimbap is a simple Korean rice dish, this version was elevated with black truffle, beef tenderloin, foie gras, and cheese, bringing together earthy and savory elements in a luxurious way. The next dish was GEUM TAE, or red snapper. It reminded me of a similar one I had at Mosu the night before. The fish was firm but tender, with perfectly crisped skin. A light oil-based sauce added a subtle nuttiness, and it sat on kimchi infused with yuzu and soy sauce, giving the dish a bright, citrusy heat.

For the main course, there was a choice between LAMB and HANWOO beef (a +30,000 KRW supplement). I went with the HANWOO. It was a tenderloin cut, cooked medium rare—incredibly tender, juicy, and full of flavor. The brown butter and soy sauce added a nice mix of sweetness and a touch of salt. On the side, there were grilled mushrooms, roasted pine nuts, and herbs that paired really well with the beef.

The KOREAN MELON KOMBUCHA arrived chilled and acted as a refreshing palate cleanser. It had a bright tanginess and a subtle sweetness that was light and cooling. The main dessert was the DOLHAREUBANG l CARROT, a playful take on Jeju Island’s iconic volcanic statue. This mini figure was made of chocolate mousse and filled with peanut caramel. Rich and sweet, it was balanced nicely by a scoop of milk ice cream that toned things down with its gentle sweetness. Fun and satisfying.

WATERMELON STICK followed, a sorbet with that unmistakable watermelon flavor. Cool, crisp, and just sweet enough. To wrap up the meal, coffee was served with a house-made CHOCOPIE, a nostalgic Korean treat of chocolate and marshmallow. The sugary richness paired well with the bold black coffee.

After a long series of courses, this dinner definitely stood out. The flavors were rooted in Korean tradition, but the execution was thoughtful and modern. The kitchen leans heavily on high-quality local ingredients, blending them seamlessly with Western techniques. Some dishes reinterpreted classic Korean staples, while others incorporated luxurious Western ingredients to elevate the experience.

I went with the wine pairing at 168,000 KRW (they also offer a 9-glass version for 230,000 KRW). The selection was diverse—Korean spirits, Japanese sake, and wines from around the world—each thoughtfully matched to the dish it accompanied.

Service at Jungsik was formal but never stiff. The staff was professional, well-spoken, and always happy to engage. Every server who came by the table knew the menu well and explained each course clearly. There was no language barrier, and they were attentive without ever hovering—glasses were refilled before you even thought to ask.

Beverage Pairing:

Jungsik feels surprisingly approachable. If you’re curious about experiencing a two-Michelin-star meal without spending a fortune, lunch is a great way in. But even dinner is doable at just under $350 USD for the full menu with drink pairing, it’s a fair price for a restaurant of this caliber.

Back in New York, it’s hard to miss the wave of “Modern Korean” spots popping up everywhere. Korean food has gone far beyond its K-Town roots in Manhattan or Flushing in Queens. Jungsik played a huge role in that shift. Chef Jungsik Yim and his flagship in Seoul helped define what “New Korean” could be. So if you’re in Seoul, there’s no better place to explore where it all began.

Mosu ***

Mosu
45 Itaewon-ro 55ga-gil, Yongsan-gu,
Seoul, 04348, South Korea
+82 10-9014-1696
Official Site

Seoul, the vibrant capital of South Korea, stands as the nation’s gastronomic epicenter. A paradise for food enthusiasts, it offers an impressive range of culinary experiences, from bustling night markets to cozy, family-owned eateries. This dynamic megacity is home to numerous Michelin-starred establishments and globally celebrated restaurants. Yet, one name truly stands out: Mosu, currently the only three-Michelin-starred restaurant in both Seoul and South Korea.

Mosu is helmed by Chef Sung Ahn, a South Korea-born culinary virtuoso who moved to the United States in his teens. There, he honed his craft in some of California’s finest kitchens, including Urasawa (two Michelin stars in Los Angeles), The French Laundry, and Benu (both three stars). Chef Ahn opened Mosu in San Francisco in 2016, earning a Michelin star within months. However, a year later, he closed the restaurant, returning to Seoul to be closer to his family. Mosu reopened in Seoul in 2017, immediately receiving one Michelin star in 2018, followed by a second a year later. By 2022, it had reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence with its third Michelin star.

Located in the trendy Itaewon district, Mosu is discreetly nestled among boutique shops, blending seamlessly into its stylish surroundings. The bi-level space exudes minimalist elegance. Oversized, uncovered tables are generously spaced for privacy, emphasizing a sense of calm sophistication. The main dining room on the first floor feels expansive, featuring an open kitchen with soaring ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, creating a serene yet exclusive atmosphere.

Open for lunch and dinner, each service offers its own tasting menu. I visited for dinner, which came at a cost of 370,000 KRW, payable in full upon reservation. The meal commenced with a welcome drink of jasmine and summer herbs—a refreshing prelude to awaken the palate. What followed was a parade of small bites that arrived in rapid succession, setting a high standard for the evening.

Small Bites:

The first bite featured sweet shrimp with crispy seaweed and egg salad, a delightful combination that was both delicate and flavorful. Next was a rice cracker adorned with vibrant, fresh herbs and vegetables, delivering a burst of freshness. A skewer of carrots, tomato, and eggplant drizzled with olive oil sauce followed, packing a profound and compact flavor. The truffle tart, crafted with a squid ink base and filled with Korean Hanwoo beef tartare, was a standout, offering an earthy truffle essence paired with the richness of the beef. The final small bite, a taco of abalone with seaweed compote, delivered a delightful crunch and a chewy texture, with a squeeze of lime elevating its flavors. These expertly crafted bites started the dinner on an exhilarating note.

The official first course, toasted sesame with amaranth, presented a sphere of sesame and tofu resembling a large dumpling, filled with creamy, briny uni. A touch of wasabi added a hint of spice, balanced by the sweet notes of dashi. Next was the bread course, a surprising sourdough ice cream served atop oil and balsamic vinegar. The ice cream captured the essence of sourdough bread, with toasted quinoa providing a textural nod to its crust.

The following courses were equally remarkable. The tilefish in capsicum, sourced from Jeju Island, was flawlessly tender with a hint of fattiness. Its sauce—a medley of paprika powder, shishito chili, and anchovies—offered a vibrant interplay of pungency, salinity, and spiciness. Then came the sweet corn custard, a dish as smooth and creamy as it was flavorful. Hidden beneath its silky surface were succulent scallops, while a topping of decadent caviar added a perfect touch of briny luxury.

The fresh water eel “kobayaki”, introduced earlier in the evening as a tartin, finally made its appearance. Traditionally a sweet pastry, this version was given a savory twist. The tartin’s caramelized, crispy crust paired beautifully with the tender, subtly sweet eel filling. Next came the ember toasted acorn noodles, a pasta dish featuring acorn noodles in butter sauce, crowned with generous shavings of black truffle. The butter sauce and truffles created a rich, aromatic harmony that was deeply satisfying.

For the main course, the “Hanwoo” & clams, was a testament to Korean culinary excellence. This native breed of cattle, renowned for its superior quality, was prepared to perfection—tender, juicy, and intensely flavorful. A clam sauce infused with cherry seed oil added layers of depth and complexity, elevating the dish to new heights and concluding the savory courses with a flourish.

Dessert, fittingly named “Small Sweets,” unfolded in several delightful acts. A palate-cleansing chamoe sorbet, made from Korean melon, refreshed the senses with its crisp, fruity notes. A Kampuchea peach with fermented yellow rice cake offered a unique texture and subtle flavor. The choux pastry, filled with kombu cream jam, combined delicate sweetness with umami undertones. The final dessert was a bold caramel ice cream, intriguingly paired with onion and leek. The savory elements tempered the caramel’s sweetness, creating an unexpectedly balanced profile. Accompanying my tea was yakgwa, a deep-fried Korean pastry infused with ginger and honey—a fittingly indulgent end to an extraordinary meal.

“Small Sweets”:

Mosu’s tasting menu exemplified precision and artistry, seamlessly blending Chef Ahn’s American influences with local Korean ingredients. Each dish was thoughtfully composed, with some flavors offering comforting familiarity and others an exciting sense of novelty. The meal was expertly paired with the restaurant’s standard beverage selection, featuring French wines, a South African white, Japanese sake, and Korean spirits—all enhancing the food beautifully.

Drink Pairing:

Service was impeccable. The staff at Mosu were warm, professional, and well-versed in each course, confidently explaining the dishes in fluent English. The relaxed atmosphere, contrasting with the formality of the service, created a comfortable yet refined dining experience. Notably, the restaurant does not enforce a dress code, which is uncommon for fine dining in the West, reflecting Seoul’s unique dining culture.

An evening at Mosu is surprisingly affordable compared to similar three-starred venues in the U.S., Europe, or other Asian cities. With dinner and beverage pairing totaling less than $450, it offers remarkable value.

With the closure of Gaon and the demotion of La Yeon, Mosu remains the nation’s sole three-starred bastion. Though temporarily closed for relocation, the restaurant is expected to reopen in late 2024. When it does, there is little doubt that Mosu will reclaim its status as Seoul’s premier fine-dining destination, offering an experience truly worth the journey.