Tag: West Loop

Smyth ***

Smyth
177 N Ada St #101,
Chicago, IL 60607
 (773) 913-3773
Official Site

The West Loop neighborhood has long been a gastronomic hotbed in Chicago. There are countless high-end and Michelin-starred restaurants that call this neighborhood home. On my previous visit to Chicago, I dined at the now-closed three-Michelin-starred Grace and the one-Michelin-starred Elske. Several years later, I found myself back in Chicago and in the West Loop, this time to dine at the three-Michelin-starred Smyth.

Smyth is owned by husband-and-wife chefs John and Karen Shields, who have impressive culinary résumés. John worked at some of Chicago’s premier dining establishments, including Charlie Trotter’s and Alinea, while Karen, a pastry chef, worked at TRU and Charlie Trotter’s, where the couple first met. They were initially supposed to open an outpost of Charlie Trotter’s in Las Vegas, but they turned down the opportunity and moved to the rural town of Chilhowie, Virginia, where they took over a modest restaurant called Town House in 2008. The New York Times published a glowing review that helped transform the restaurant into a culinary destination. John’s cooking earned him recognition as one of Food & Wine magazine’s Best New Chefs and a James Beard Award finalist nomination. The couple eventually returned to Chicago to open Smyth and its more casual sibling, The Loyalist. After opening in 2016, Smyth received its first Michelin star that year, followed by a second in 2017. In 2023, the restaurant was awarded its third star.

The restaurant features an open-concept dining room that feels spacious and welcoming. A waiting area with plush sofas occupies the front, while the open kitchen looks directly into the dining room. Smooth, uncovered mahogany tables are paired with wooden chairs, while concrete flooring, exposed brick walls, and wooden ceiling rafters add character to the space. Large windows allow an abundance of natural light to fill the dining room.

Open exclusively for dinner, the restaurant offers a single tasting menu for $325. To start, I was served the SAPOTE AMAZAKE, a nonalcoholic amazake drink made with sapote, a tropical fruit native to Mexico and Central America. Its subtle sweetness and herbal notes helped awaken the palate and prepare it for what was to come. The PENBAY SCALLOP & MELON was the first course. Served in its shell, the scallop was marinated with tomato and melon. This was a refreshing preparation, with wonderful marine sweetness and a citrusy bite from the lemon, which also provided a pleasant acidity.

Next came the QUAIL EGG TART. The quail egg was cured in fig and wrapped in sea lettuce, creating a combination of honeyed sweetness and brininess, accompanied by pronounced grassy notes. The caviar topping provided a luxurious salinity that complemented the other flavors. The SOURDOUGH WAFFLE & ENOKI MUSHROOM followed. Made with mushroom-and-truffle sourdough, the waffle had a crisp exterior and a savory filling of veal mousse and milk skin, accompanied by pine-cone jam. The combination of textures and flavors made this an interesting and satisfying course. That was followed by the SWEETBREAD DOUGHNUT, which was poached for 48 hours in vegetable bouillon before being finished with milk skin cream, veal reduction, toffee, and carrot flower. The doughnut achieved a pleasant balance between sweet and savory, with the richness of the sweetbread complemented by the sweetness of the toffee.

The DUNGENESS CRAB & JACKFRUIT featured a Dungeness crab salad combined with a variety of tropical fruits, including sapote, and a beeswax cream. This was a tasty dish, and the crab meat was wonderful, with a delicate sweetness and subtle nuttiness. The fermented coconut and marinated jackfruit worked beautifully with the crab, creating a terrific combination. Continuing with the Dungeness crab theme, the next course was the CRAB KANI CUSTARD. Served warm, the combination of crab and uni was rich, creamy, and delicious. Interestingly, the uni was not actual sea urchin but a preparation made from sapote, an ingredient introduced earlier in the meal. It convincingly replicated the flavor and texture of real uni. Together, both dishes demonstrated the versatility of crab and sapote, as well as the brilliance and technical creativity of the kitchen.

Proceeding with the TOMATO & OYSTER, the dish featured cherry tomatoes with miso, gooseberry, sedum, and oyster. This was nicely executed, with refreshing acidity that worked particularly well with the oyster. There was also a pleasant vegetal presence that added another dimension to the dish. The CAVIAR & ALMOND came next. My server instructed me to mix everything together. A generous portion of caviar rested on a base of walnut oil and almond milk, while rose butter and green almond were presented alongside it. This was a pleasant dish with subtle saltiness, light creaminess, and hints of bitterness. The AVOCADO & PISTACHIO was another interesting creation. Half an avocado was covered in pistachio praline, providing a sweet nuttiness. Beneath it was a cucumber-and-rice slush that introduced plenty of fresh green notes, while the almond milk sauce added a distinct nuttiness.

Afterward, the MAINE LOBSTER & GUAVA was served. The Maine lobster was poached in raspberry butter and placed on a bed of lobster tamale and guava, then covered with garden flowers and finished with lobster jus. The dish was colorful and vibrant. The sauce had a pronounced lobster flavor, while the charred lobster meat offered an appealing smokiness. Floral notes added another layer to the plate. The BROOK TROUT & TRUFFLE PORRIDGE followed. Poached in kombu butter, the trout was delicate and tender, practically melting in the mouth. It was served with kelp, which had a charred flavor reminiscent of cabbage, and rested on rice porridge with truffles. A bouillon made from truffles and mushrooms completed the dish. This was a wonderful preparation, with the earthy flavors of the truffles complementing the fish.

For the main course, the ELYSIAN FIELDS LAMB & MALTED MILK BREAD was served. This dish featured different preparations of lamb. The dry-aged lamb rack was cooked perfectly, with a rich and buttery texture, while the confit lamb tongue had a mild gaminess. The lamb sausage was also tasty. The lamb jus, incorporating cherry juice, added a beautiful sweetness that complemented the meat. Smoked Japanese eggplant and shavings of black truffle provided additional depth, with the truffle contributing an intense earthiness. I was pleasantly surprised that the lamb’s gaminess was not overpowering, making the different preparations more enjoyable.

The main course was accompanied by malted milk bread glazed with veal jus and served with lamb sausage butter. The bread was savory and delightful, although, due to personal preference, I was not a fan of the accompanying butter.

The sweet portion of the meal began with a palate cleanser, the MANGO & GARDEN LICORICE, which consisted of candied mango over mango purée, accompanied by buttermilk ice cream and finely shaved ice. The cool temperature and gentle sweetness of the mango made this a refreshing transition from the savory courses. Floral and honeyed notes added further complexity to the palate cleanser.

The main dessert, AGED BANANA, was a creative preparation featuring banana custard made from darkened banana peel, drawing inspiration from the technique used to make banana bread. The peel was then manipulated and molded into the shape of a banana. The dessert was sweet, but its sweetness was balanced by bitter elements on the plate. Overall, considerable thought and creativity went into its preparation. That was followed by BLACK WALNUT, chocolate truffles with a mochino caramel filling. These small bites delivered a rich chocolate flavor complemented by the caramel center. The SUNFLOWER TART, made with a graham cracker crust, sunflower seed ganache, and salted honey custard, offered a combination of nutty flavors reminiscent of peanut butter and the sweetness of honey. This marked the end of a wonderful meal.

Smyth’s tasting menu was wonderful and impeccably executed. The cooking demonstrated a high degree of technical skill and creativity. Each dish featured numerous components that worked harmoniously together. Ingredients were repeated throughout the meal, yet the kitchen managed to use them masterfully without fatiguing the palate with familiar flavors and textures. There were Japanese and Mexican influences throughout the menu, reflected in the ingredients and preparations, alongside luxurious products and sophisticated techniques. The result was a tasting menu that felt imaginative and cohesive rather than extravagant for the sake of extravagance.

I asked the sommelier for recommendations, and he selected three wines to accompany the tasting menu. A Spanish white wine was served with the opening courses, followed by French white and red wines for the middle and remaining savory dishes. The selections were terrific, particularly A Grana by Nanclares y Prieto from Galicia, Spain. Its dry characteristics paired extremely well with the first few dishes, complementing their delicate flavors and refreshing acidity.

Service at Smyth was polished yet friendly, with a warmth that made the experience feel welcoming rather than overly formal. The servers, dressed in immaculate black suits, stopped by my table with smiles on their faces. They were engaging but knew when to leave me to enjoy the meal. They were also extremely knowledgeable, explaining each dish with clarity and detail. Their professionalism was evident throughout the evening and contributed significantly to the overall dining experience.

At the time of my visit, dinner at Smyth cost $325. Expensive, certainly, but not the priciest three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the United States. I consider it to be toward the more approachable end of the spectrum for restaurants at this level, although I would not be surprised to see its prices rise in the future.

Smyth has firmly established itself as an anchor of the neighborhood’s fine-dining scene. With all the accolades it has received, the restaurant continues to attract diners from across the country and around the world, many of whom make a special journey just to experience its cuisine. Smyth is truly one of the great restaurants in the country, operating at the highest level of its craft—a distinction further affirmed by my own dining experience.

Elske *

Elske
1350 W Randolph St,
Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 733-1314
Website

Last year, Chicago’s West Loop welcomed the Danish-inspired restaurant, Elske. Located along W Randolph Street, this was a great addition to a neighborhood with a bustling dining scene. As one of the most awaited opening in 2016, the restaurant did not disappoint. It was voted number two in Bon Appetite Best New Restaurant in 2017, a three star review from Chicago Tribune, and most recent accolade, a Michelin star. The owners are husband and wife David and Anna Posey who both worked at the Michelin starred Blackbird in Chicago. Prior to opening Elske, David held the position of chef de cuisine at Blackbird while Anna was a pastry chef at Publican.

The restaurant’s expansive space seats about fifty guests, and has large store front windows that looks out to the street. The dining room has uncovered dark wooden communal tables, walls of exposed brick, and smooth concrete for floors. At the front is the bar area located next to the open kitchen. On a good day, an outdoor space with a fire place doubles up as an additional dining space.

Elske has an a la carte menu that is inexpensive. There are no plates over $24. In addition, an affordable $85 tasting menu is quite appealing to my pocket, which is what perpetuated my visit.

The tasting menu started with Tea of lightly smoked fruits and vegetables, which was a cup of tea infused with subtle smoked vegetables and fruits flavors. This was followed by Broccoli and amaranth fritter with spicy date jams. A single crunchy bite of grainy fritter boasts a dynamic duo of both sweet and spicy. Duck liver tart with salted ramp and buckwheat was next. The decadent tart teases nice hints of brininess with a touch of bitterness.

The meal continued with an interesting dish called, Chilled zucchini and buttermilk cream with braised pistachio, blueberries and elder, which were thinly sliced chilled zucchinis blanketed in thick cream. The cream has a mixture of sour, sweet, and nuttiness that worked superbly with the zucchini’s cold element. Roasted sturgeon with fried artichoke, caviar and lovage came afterwards. The sturgeon was roasted impeccably, it was tender and moist. The lovage sauce with caviar provided the saltiness, elevating the fish, while the fried artichoke makes fine accompaniment.

Grilled Vegas strip steak with braised dandelion greens, smoked beef and roasted marrow was the main course. The steak was scrumptious, packed with flavors, and has delightful presence of smokiness. Adding richness to the dish, was the roasted bone marrow consommé.

Frozen fennel jelly with mint followed the main dish. This concoction was a tongue soothing cube of jelly mint that helps rinse the palate off savory remnants. For dessert, Roasted peach sorbet, frozen yogurt, rose and bitter almonds was served. The peach sorbet went perfectly well with the yogurt, creating a pleasant blend of cold fruitiness and sourness. The garnished of dehydrated rose petal added texture.

Needless to say, this was quite the enjoyable meal. The dishes were creative and refined using cooking techniques that are evident of experienced chefs. The flavor combination was unique but made sense as it rightfully complemented each other.  Though the restaurant served “New American” cuisine with Danish influence, I find that the flavor profile leans more towards Nordic. The wine pairing was also decently priced at $45, and comprised of five glasses. It was mostly European wines with the exception of the red wine paired with the steak, which came from California.

Wine Pairing:

After dining at the three Michelin starred Grace the previous night, I wanted something informal and relaxing. Elske was the right place. I had an early dinner on this particular visit and was seated at the bar. The bartender that evening was genuinely friendly and conversant. When I started my meal there were a few tables occupied but as the night progressed, the dining room and bar filled up fairly quick. Despite the sudden influx of patrons at this time, the service did not falter.

There is a growing number of restaurants opening up in the past few years that offers quality food in strip down settings. From Paris to New York, this type of dining trend has been well received by the masses. In Chicago, such restaurant came in the form of Elske where I was treated with fine dining fare without the prentious atmosphere.

 

Grace ***

Grace
652 W Randolph St
Chicago IL 60661
(312) 234-9494
Website

*The restaurant abruptly closed on December 19, 2017.

Along with New York City and San Francisco, Chicago is hailed as one of dining capital in the US. The city has a total of 25 Michelin starred restaurants sprinkled throughout. At the epicenter is the neighborhood of West Loop. With an abundance of great places to eat and drink, the neighborhood’s culinary excellence is anchored by the three Michelin starred, Grace.

Grace was opened in 2012 by co-owners head chef Curtis Duffy and GM/sommelier Michael Muser. At that time, it was by far the most ambitious and most anticipated restaurant openings in Chicago, as well as in the country. The restaurant was immediately awarded two Michelin stars after a few month of opening. A year later in 2013, Grace was elevated to three stars, a status it has maintained ever since. The restaurant has since received other accolades in such a short span, adding merits such as the four-star review from the Chicago-Tribune, Forbes Five Stars and AAA Five Diamonds.

Chef Curtis Duffy can easily boast a robust kitchen experience working in some of Chicago’s top restaurants. He once worked with the late Charlie Trotter at his eponymous restaurant before moving on to Trio, cooking alongside Chicago’s most decorated chef, Grant Achatz. In 2004, he was recruited by Chef Achatz as the opening sous-chef of the critically acclaimed Alinea. After a few years there, he took on the head chef position at Avenues in the Peninsula Hotel where he also met his future business partner Michael Muser. At Avenues, Chef Duffy cooking reportoire was awarded two Michelin stars.

The restaurant resides along the strip of W. Randolph Street where some of Chicago’s best dining venues are also located. Grace unassuming façade of rusted steel with glass doors opens directly to the hostess table. A short hallway leads to a muted and windowless dining room with tones of neutral colors. It is dimly lit by hanging decanter lights and the floors are cover in thick carpets, which helps dampen the noise. In the dining room are identical oversize round table draped in grey cloth, cream leather chairs, handsome blond wood panel walls, and a glass enclosed kitchen. The columns in the middle are nicely incorporated with its modern interior.

Fauna:

There were only two dining option at Grace, the vegetable centric “Flora,” and the meat and seafood “Fauna,” which were both priced at $235. I had the latter which began with an array of small bites on a plate made from beeswax. Consisting of Iberian ham, beets, chickpea and yuzu gummy, these small bites were a very good start to this meal.

For the first course, GUINEA HEN-ramp, radish, chive blossom was presented in a yogurt glass cup sealed in foil, and when opened it releases an enticing smoky aroma. I was instructed to lick the other side of the lid which was spread with a zesty coconut cream. The glass was stuffed with guinea hen pate infused with a wonderful smokiness in company of radish, ramps, scallions and coconut cream.

ALASKAN KING CRAB-sudachi, cucumber, lemon mint was next. Served on a martini tumbler glass, it has a crystalized sugar in the middle separating the ingredients. At the bottom of the glass are pieces of delicious crab meat in cumber juice. Breaking the crystalized sugar mixes all the ingredients, creating a fantastic balance of flavors. There was also a distinct peppery note that blended perfectly.

Third course was the BAY SCALLOPS-white poppy, romaine, nasturtium. Meaty scallops were ultra-fresh and sweet. Rich milky sauce from white poppy seeds elevated the scallops by providing an extra layer of flavor. That was followed by an extra dish from the Flora menu, CARROT-green strawberry, hazelnut, amaranth. This vegetarian plate has so much going on. It has an earthiness coming from the carrot, some nuttiness from the hazel nuts, citric features from the orange sauce, and a refreshing acidity from green strawberries. Yet, they all managed to come together in harmony.

The meal proceeded with PORK- gnudi, porcini, spinach. The nicely braised pork was topped with crispy red cabbage and spinach. A piece of gnudi on the side was a pleasant accompaniment to this dish. Afterward the SQUAB-beet, fig, endive was served. The flavorful squab meat was extra tender, moist with a beautiful pink middle. And, complementing it was a vibrant thick beets puree with a honey like sweetness.

For the main course, MIYAZAKI BEEF – grains, hon shimeji, kaffir lime was a pure luxury. Miyazaki beef is one the finest on the planet and it was cooked impeccably here. Each bite melts eloquently in the mouth like a cotton candy. There are hints of nutty and citrus element in the background that paired accordingly with the beef.

Prior to dessert, the BLOOD ORANGE- vanilla, tangerine lace was the palate cleanser. The chilled blood orange yields a soothing citrus tang with a nice touch of vanilla cream. Dessert was HUCKLEBERRY- honey, fenugreek, basil, huckleberry ice cream has a nice sweet sourness while other components provide an interesting peppery and minty combination. This was refreshing and fruity at the same time. Next was the CASHEW- cocoa, crème fraîche, Hoja Santa, which was a plate of chocolaty pleasure. The chocolate came in mouse, jelly and cake form and the hoja santa was featured as a sorbet, cream drops and leaves. The assortments of rich chocolate sweetness, herbal essence and savory tartness were put wonderfully together. Lastly a green sphere served on wooden rocker pops with chilled honey dew liquid inside the mouth. It was a refreshing finish to this meal.

The “Fauna” was a terrific tasting menu that showcased the restaurant’s ability and the technical cooking prowess. Using quality and luxurious ingredients sourced both globally and locally, the kitchen creates food that is complex and light. They were able to successfully marry different elements on the plate to create a unique myriad of taste. Every dish was artfully conceived, full of colors and pleasing to look at. Additionally, the $125 wine pairing comprise of nine glasses of predominantly European wines were perfectly designed to add an enriching after taste with every course.

There is a hushed atmosphere in dining room. It is so quiet that you can hear the pin drop, and even the staff spoke in low clear tone. The service was formal throughout my meal, but managed to loosen up from time to time. They handled each table flawlessly and were significantly in tune with one another. Their attention to detail and awareness was incomparable. Providing an exceptional dining experience to each guest was expertly performed by the staff.

Wine Pairing:

Chicago dining has gotten better throughout the years, the city was voted as Bon Appetite best restaurant city in 2016. At the top spot are the three Michelin starred Alinea and Grace. Though Alinea gets majority of the praise, Grace on the other hand has been making a name for itself since opening in 2013. My visit at this restaurant was outstanding in every aspect. The food and the service were equally magnificent, a true tale sign of what greatness represents.

The documentary “For Grace” chronicled the process of opening the restaurant and the challenges that Chef Duffy and Mr. Muser had to face. In the opening scene, Chef Duffy talks about his goal to make Grace as one of best the restaurant in the country. Along with Mr. Muser they had achieved that goal in such a short time. Grace rightfully sits among the great restaurants in the US.